Projects | Popular Science https://www.popsci.com/category/projects/ Awe-inspiring science reporting, technology news, and DIY projects. Skunks to space robots, primates to climates. That's Popular Science, 145 years strong. Tue, 30 May 2023 21:21:17 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.1.1 https://www.popsci.com/uploads/2021/04/28/cropped-PSC3.png?auto=webp&width=32&height=32 Projects | Popular Science https://www.popsci.com/category/projects/ 32 32 How to make hand sanitizer https://www.popsci.com/story/diy/diy-hand-sanitizer/ Wed, 22 Apr 2020 16:37:33 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/uncategorized/diy-hand-sanitizer/
Hand sanitizer bottle and hands.
Making your own hand sanitizer is easy. But if you want to fight COVID-19, no, you can't use vodka. Kelly Sikkema via Unsplash

We’ve got liquid and gel for all your germ-killing needs.

The post How to make hand sanitizer appeared first on Popular Science.

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Hand sanitizer bottle and hands.
Making your own hand sanitizer is easy. But if you want to fight COVID-19, no, you can't use vodka. Kelly Sikkema via Unsplash

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Most people probably haven’t thought much about how to make hand sanitizer. Stores sell it for cheap, in a variety of scents and styles, and it’s basically as good as it can be. But if you want to earn some DIY bragging rights, clean your paws using a particular scent, or prepare for a future health crisis, you can easily make your own with supplies you can find at a drugstore or may already have at home.

But before you start, there are a few things you should keep in mind before you craft homemade hand sanitizer. First, it’s crucial that you understand that proper hand washing will always be better than simply rubbing your digits with hand sanitizer. Using the right amount of alcohol-based disinfectant (3 milliliters) for 25 to 30 seconds is fine in a pinch, but soap, water, and a good scrub are the absolute best way to protect yourself against contagious diseases.

Knowing how to make hand sanitizer is useful if you ever find yourself in the middle of a health emergency like the COVID-19 pandemic. But these and other DIY recipes are only for extreme cases when hand washing is not an option and supplies are low. Professionals use these formulations in underserviced healthcare settings, and if at some point hand sanitizer is not available at local stores, you can use them too.

Lastly, your homemade hand sanitizer won’t last forever. The main active ingredient in the recipes below is isopropyl alcohol, a volatile compound that will evaporate over time and compromise the effectiveness of your hand sanitizer. When alcohol concentration drops below 60%, your hand sanitizer won’t be able to kill COVID-19 or influenza, for example. The shelf life of store-bought hand sanitizers can vary—the industry standard is three years, but it can go up to five. How long your DIY hand sanitizer lasts will depend on the type and size of the container you use and how often you open it, along with room temperature and humidity. Unfortunately, all of these factors make it hard to predict exactly how long your hand sanitizer will be good for, so proceed with caution. 

How to make hand sanitizer

There are two main formulas for homemade hand sanitizer: one, recommended by the World Health Organization, is closer to liquid than gel and is harder on your hands, while the other will be gentler on your skin and closely resembles the feel of store-bought hand sanitizer. Which one you make depends on your personal preference.

Stats

  • Time: literally 2 minutes
  • Estimated ingredient cost: $15 (makes 3.5 cups, or 15 of those little two-ounce bottles)
  • Difficulty: easy

Tools

Recipe No. 1: the WHO hand sanitizer formulation

Ingredients

The WHO has a comprehensive guide on how to make hand sanitizer—the only problem is that if you follow their instructions, you’ll end up with a lot of it. Like, exactly 2.6 gallons of it. If you want to make enough to last you, your family, and all your friends through a zombie apocalypse, you definitely can. But if you want to keep things on a smaller scale, we’ve adapted the measurements for you.

1. Pour the alcohol into a medium-sized container with a pouring spout. The percentages on the labels of isopropyl alcohol refer to the alcohol concentration in them. You’re dealing with almost pure alcohol if you’ve got 99.8%, whereas 70% means the bottle is only a little more than two-thirds alcohol, and the rest is water.

2. Add the hydrogen peroxide.

3. Add the glycerin and stir. This ingredient is thicker than both alcohol and hydrogen peroxide, so it’ll take some stirring to combine everything. You can use a clean spoon for this or, if your container has a lid, you can put that on and shake it well.

4. Measure and pour in the water. Measure a ¼-cup of distilled or boiled cold water and add it to your mix. Stir.

[Related: Is hand sanitizer bad for my microbiome?]

5. Sanitize your spray bottles and pour in your hand sanitizer. Spray some of your leftover alcohol into your bottles and let them sit until the alcohol has evaporated. Then pour in your sanitizer.

6. Label your bottles. Hand sanitizers pose a real risk of involuntary alcohol poisoning, especially among children, who were largely affected by it during the first months of the COVID-19 pandemic. You don’t want anyone to accidentally ingest your newly made hand sanitizer. Take the time to label your bottles with their contents and the date, and keep them away from unsupervised kids.

Recipe No. 2: hand sanitizer gel

Ingredients

1. Pour the alcohol into a medium container with a pouring spout. Some recipes online use vodka instead of isopropyl alcohol, but they’re not interchangeable. Most vodkas and other spirits don’t contain a high enough percentage of alcohol to be effective.

  • Warning: Using isopropyl alcohol diluted beyond 91% will result in a weaker hand sanitizer that doesn’t meet the CDC’s 60% benchmark for killing the COVID-19 virus and influenza.

2. Measure and pour the aloe vera gel. Alcohol can be hard on your skin, so using aloe is a good way to counteract that effect and keep your hands smooth. If you want to keep things natural, you can use aloe vera gel straight from the plant without worrying about it going bad—the alcohol will act as a preservative.

[Related: Five tips for taking care of your over-washed hands]

However, you will need to keep in mind that natural aloe gel is thicker than its store-bought counterpart and will affect the final product differently—it will make your hand sanitizer more sticky, which means you’ll need to rub your hands more times for it to fully absorb.

3. Add the essential oil. Tea tree oil is naturally antibacterial, so it makes sense to use it here. But if you’re not a fan of its smell, you can use another type of essential oil, like lavender, lemongrass, or eucalyptus.

4. Whisk. To fully mix all ingredients, stirring won’t be enough. Get a whisk and beat that hand sanitizer into a homogeneous gel.

5. Sanitize your spray bottles and pour in your hand sanitizer. Spray some of your leftover alcohol into your bottles and let them sit until the alcohol has evaporated. Pour in your sanitizer.

6. Label your containers. Hand sanitizers pose a real risk of involuntary alcohol poisoning, especially among children, who were largely affected by it during the first months of the COVID-19 pandemic. You don’t want anyone to accidentally ingest your newly made hand sanitizer. Take the time to label your bottles with their contents and the date, and keep them away from unsupervised kids.

Updated March 7, 2020, at 1 p.m.: This story has been updated to more accurately reflect which concentrations of alcohol will result in hand sanitizer that’s at least 60% alcohol.

Updated March 23, 2020, at 6 p.m.: This story has been updated to more accurately reflect the amount of water in the WHO formulation. The original story resulted in hand sanitizer that was 71% alcohol, and the updated version is now at 75%.

This post has been updated. It was originally published on March 5, 2020.

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Make your own seed bombs to garden on the go https://www.popsci.com/diy/seed-bombs-diy/ Tue, 16 May 2023 12:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=541293
A kitchen counter with a tray of drying seed bombs, a bowl with a mixture of powdered clay and potting mix, and two seed packets for rosemary and lavender.
If you don't want to make an entire arsenal of seed bombs, you can make a few and use the rest of the clay to pamper yourself with a face mask. Jamie Dickman

Spread precious greenery and biodiversity throughout your community.

The post Make your own seed bombs to garden on the go appeared first on Popular Science.

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A kitchen counter with a tray of drying seed bombs, a bowl with a mixture of powdered clay and potting mix, and two seed packets for rosemary and lavender.
If you don't want to make an entire arsenal of seed bombs, you can make a few and use the rest of the clay to pamper yourself with a face mask. Jamie Dickman

The word “bomb” is not usually associated with positive things. Except in this case, where making seed bombs could help the ecological restoration of your neighborhood. 

These marble-sized balls have resurfaced on platforms such as Instagram and TikTok, where guerrilla gardeners use them to promote urban biodiversity by adding vegetation in neglected areas.

Making seed bombs is an easy, cheap, and fun way to help restore your local greenery, as long as you’re tossing them in the right areas and aren’t breaking any laws. Here’s how to go about it.

How to make seed bombs

Clay powder may be the hardest ingredient to find for this project, but a pound of it will be enough to make a few dozen seed bombs. You can easily find soil and seeds at your local hardware store, but you can also source them from mother nature.

Stats

  • Time: 20 minutes.
  • Material cost: Around $25 for 15 to 20 seed bombs. 
  • Difficulty: Easy.

Materials 

Tools

  • Large bowl
  • (Optional) Mixing spoon 
  • (Optional) Tray

Instructions

1. Mix the clay and potting mix. In the bowl, pour the clay and potting mix in a 2:1 ratio. 

The powdered clay acts as a binder and protects the seeds from direct sunlight, insects, and birds. We used green calcium bentonite clay (which doubles as a face mask), but you can use any kind you find at your local store or have at home. If you want seed bombs that look more natural and blend into the soil, you can use red clay powder.

Kitchen counter with a glass of water and a bowl with clay and potting soil in it
Add the water slowly and mix well to prevent your mix from turning into goo. Jaime Dickman

Meanwhile, the potting mix will provide essential nutrients for seed germination and early plant growth, giving your bomb the best chance to thrive. Any kind will do, but the finer it is the easier it will mix with the clay. If you have a coarser mix at home, sift it out in a strainer before you use it.

  • Pro tip: If you can’t find clay or just don’t want to buy some, you can replace it with the same amount of flour or wet, shredded paper. These alternatives will also act as a binding agent, but they will not be as strong as clay when dried. 

2. Add water. Slowly pour enough water to turn the dry mix into a dough—it should feel like putty in your hands. The amount you use to reach this consistency will depend on the absorbency of your chosen clay and soil.

If you think you added too much water, you can add more clay and potting mix to compensate for the added moisture. Just keep the ratio of the dry ingredients constant: for every extra part of potting mix, add two parts of clay. 

[Related: Save the world by saving your plants’ seeds]

3. Add the seeds. Pour in your seeds in a ratio of 3:1 in relation to the clay mix and combine with your hands or a mixing spoon. You may change this proportion depending on how dense you want plants to grow, but 3:1 is ideal to work in enough seeds.

  • Pro tip: You can put multiple types of seeds into your bombs, but be careful how you mix and match: sun-loving plants will thrive in a spot where a shade-loving one will die, while fast-growing greenery might out-perform and suffocate another. Only combine seeds with similar qualities or habitat preferences, or plants that are known to grow well together.

4. Knead and roll the mix into small balls. Use the palms of your hands to shape your bombs. Keep them around half an inch (approximately one centimeter) in diameter. As you finish each one, place them on a tray with enough room between them so they’re not touching—once they dry, it’ll be difficult to break them apart. 

Kitchen counter with a bowl of seed bomb mix, a plate with drying bombs, and a hand holding an unfinished bomb.
Is it chaotic? A bit, yeah, but remember there was a time when you loved playing with mud. Jaime Dickman
  • Pro tip: As you shape your bombs, your clay mix might start drying, making it hard to work with. Keep a bowl of water at hand and add it to the mix in small amounts to bring the desired texture back.

5. Let the seed bombs dry and harden. Leave your tray of seed bombs to rest for a couple of days until they’re fully dry and hard. If you want to speed up the process, place them in direct sunlight, and if you’re leaving them outside, make sure they’re covered in case it rains.

6. Start bombing. Once all of your seed bombs are dry, you can plant them in indoor or outdoor pots, your yard, or in neglected patches of soil you’re allowed to access. You can push them slightly into the soil, leaving the tops uncovered in a sunny spot, but if you prefer to toss them like true bombs, soak them in water for 5 to 10 minutes before bombardment. 

Pick and plant your seeds wisely

There are two important considerations to keep in mind when using your seed bombs. The first is location: spread your greenery grenades only where you’re allowed to do so. If it’s a public space, talk to whoever’s managing the land to ensure your seed bombs won’t disrupt the existing ecosystem. If you want to plant in a private space or need to enter one to drop your bombs, get the explicit permission of the property owner. You want to make sure you’re not breaking any trespassing laws.

Second, think about the seeds you’ll be using and make sure they’re from native plants. Native seeds are most likely to thrive in your home environment and will provide habitat and sustenance for local fauna.

“Native species have not only relationships with themselves and humans but also lots of the wildlife that is native to this region. By planting native species, you’re able to continue to support all of these relationships and networks,” says Andrea Kramer, director of restoration ecology and conservation scientist at the Chicago Botanic Garden.

[Related: These 142-year-old seeds sprouted after spending more than a century underground]

Finding seeds native to your area is easy. You can follow our guide and collect seeds from the plants around you, or you can get them at your local hardware store or nursery. To know what to get, check out the National Wildlife Federation’s Native Plant Finder, which will show you a list of plants and shrubs local to your specific zip code.  

If you’re having trouble finding vendors, you can use the Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation’s Native Plant, Seed and Services Directory. After providing information such as your state and some details about the area you want to cover, the site will tell you where you might find the seeds you need for your bombs. If you have any questions, remember to contact your local environmental organizations and ask for their help.

Update, May 18, 2023: This story has been updated to emphasize that readers should not plant seed bombs in spaces they’re not authorized to access. 

The post Make your own seed bombs to garden on the go appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

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This DIY laptop stand will help keep your computer cool https://www.popsci.com/diy/wooden-laptop-stand-diy/ Sun, 07 May 2023 13:03:01 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=539520
A man wearing a black sweatshirt using a laptop on a DIY wooden laptop stand on a wooden table.
A DIY laptop stand for all seasons. Courtesy of Jean Levasseur

Hot computer: bad. Cool laptop stand: good.

The post This DIY laptop stand will help keep your computer cool appeared first on Popular Science.

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A man wearing a black sweatshirt using a laptop on a DIY wooden laptop stand on a wooden table.
A DIY laptop stand for all seasons. Courtesy of Jean Levasseur

We may earn revenue from the products available on this page and participate in affiliate programs. Learn more ›

A laptop stand is a nice way to keep your computer elevated off the surface of your desk, which is good for your eyes and the long-term health of your laptop. Sure, you could buy one, but building your own allows you to customize it to your heart’s content. And by using wood—as I did here—you’ll end up with a stand that has a unique, homemade look.

If the thought of friends, family, and coworkers admiring your custom laptop stand isn’t enough to get you picking out wood, let’s circle back to those benefits. By elevating your computer, you raise the screen, which can help reduce eye and neck strain while you’re working. Ideally, the top of your display should be at or just below eye level, so you’re looking down slightly while using it, according to the US Occupational Safety and Health Administration. Much better than craning your neck up or down to see what you’re doing.  

A good laptop stand will also help your computer stay cool. The central processing unit (CPU), memory, and WiFi card are typically the three biggest heat producers in a laptop, says Gregor Angus Berkowitz, a computer engineer and managing partner at GBA, a technical management consultancy in California. This heat comes from the electrical resistance in those units as they consume power to perform their processing functions.  

“It’s kind of a runaway scenario where as they get hotter they become more inefficient and use more power and battery,” Berkowitz says. “If you can keep your CPU and memory cooler, it uses less power.”

Although it’s difficult to damage your computer these days by letting it overheat, your laptop’s internal temperature measurement devices will throttle the CPU and eventually shut down the device before anything catastrophic happens, Berkowitz explains. Still, a hot computer will make your life harder.

The laptop stand I designed has a rail-mounted approach, and includes holes in its side panels to ensure that air can move beneath the laptop from any direction to dissipate heat. It’s also easy to make from scrap wood, and you can modify the design to match any wood you have on hand. I didn’t actually design anything up front—I just stared at the boards I wanted to use until the final vision came to me. I’ll save you that trouble though, and you can just copy mine.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a face mask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

How to build a wooden laptop stand

To see this DIY laptop stand come together, watch this video. Jean Levasseur / NineRings WoodCraft

Stats

  • Time: 2 to 4 hours
  • Material cost: $5 to $20
  • Difficulty: moderate

Materials

  • 1 (2- to 3-foot-long) piece of 1-by-6 board
  • 5 (1- to 2-inch wide) boards 12 to 13 inches long
  • Wood glue

Tools

Instructions

1. Choose the dimensions and angle for your laptop stand. These measurements should be based on a few factors. The first is the size of the bottom of your laptop. The stand should be an inch or two narrower than your laptop, left to right, and an inch or so larger than it, front to back. You’ll also want to consider whether it will be dedicated to one laptop, or if multiple people might use it. I made mine 13 inches deep instead of the 11.5 it actually needed to be, for example, so the family member who requested it could keep using it if they got a larger computer in the future.

The second consideration is the height of the stand. Based on the idea that the top of the screen should be at or just below eye level when you’re sitting at your desk, calculate the height needed to raise your laptop that tall. I designed my stand to be about 5 inches tall in the back, which raises the top of the monitor about 15 inches above the desk top.

  • Pro tip: Even if you don’t follow my design, Berkowitz cautions that DIY laptop stands should be fairly skeletal, leaving as much of the computer exposed as possible. Placing the laptop on a solid sheet of plywood, for instance, would be adding insulation below, preventing effective heat dissipation.

2. Mill your boards to their final dimensions. This is a project where well-milled boards are important, because there are some precise sizes and joinery involved. I wrote a guide on how to mill wood at home if you need more details, but the steps are pretty straightforward. First, use a jointer to flatten one face and edge of each board so they are at a perfect right angle to one another. Next, run the wood through the planer to its final thickness, in this case around half an inch. Then cut them to their final width on your table saw. If you don’t have a jointer, you can flatten the faces of the boards with a hand plane, or a jointer sled in your planer, and square the edge on your table saw with the help of a level

When you’re done milling, you should have seven boards, all about half an inch thick. Adjust these dimensions as needed to fit your computer: 

  • 2 (12-by-5-inch) boards for the two side panels
  • 4 (12-by-1-inch) pieces for the top and rear braces and the legs
  • 1 (12-by-½-inch) piece for the front brace (the computer stop)

3. Cut the angle for the top of the stand. I didn’t precisely measure my angle, but I decided to settle between 15 and 20 degrees after looking at some pictures and doing some testing with my laptop. To find the right slope, I put my laptop down on the desk, then raised the back up with some scrap boards until I found a comfortable typing angle. I measured that with my angle gauge and transferred that slope to the side panels.

To cut the angle easily, and to make sure both were exactly the same, I used a tapering jig. You can buy a fancy one, but it’s easy enough to build your own simple jig with some leftover plywood. 

[Related: The surprising woodworking tools you already have around the house]

Mark the line of your angle on the side panels, then position that line along the edge of the tapering jig. Run both boards through your table saw one at a time, and you’ll end up with perfectly matched angles for the laptop to sit on.  

4. Plan to cut rabbets into the side panels to hold the legs, braces, and computer stop. Rabbets are slots cut into the edges of boards to hold wood together more securely than butting them together. Because one board is inset into another, this kind of joint has both mechanical strength and increased surface area for glue to adhere to.

The easiest way to cut rabbets consistently is with a table saw and a crosscut sled. Measure and mark the positions and depths of each rabbet carefully. I use my wheel marking gauge for this because it’s the most accurate and consistent, but you can use a sharp pencil as well.

Each side panel should have five rabbets, and it may help if you imagine the boards standing on edge, as they will in the final project:

  • 2 on the bottom edge to hold the leg pieces
  • 1 at the front of the top edge (the lowest part of the angle) to hold the computer stop
  • 1 at the back of the top edge to hold the top brace
  • 1 in the center of the back edge to hold the rear brace
A DIY wooden laptop stand on a wooden table in a dining room, with a laptop on it. The rabbet joints in the side panels are visible.
Here you can see the rabbets: one on the back edge, two on the top edge, and two on the bottom edge. As mentioned below, the ones for the legs and computer stop will be shallower. Jean Leavasseur for Popular Science

While the rabbets for the top and rear braces should be as deep as those pieces are thick—so they fit within the original shape of each side panel—the rabbets for the computer stop and legs should be about half the width of those pieces. This means they’ll sit a quarter inch or so higher than the edge of the side panels. Check the photo above if you need a visual guide.

  • Note: You may want to test a few board thicknesses for the computer stop—it should rise above the side panel enough that the front of the laptop catches on it, which will vary based on the model you have. 

5. Cut the rabbets. To ensure that the cuts remained consistent across both side boards, I taped the two together with painter’s tape, keeping the edges perfectly flush, and cut them at the same time. Use a flat grind blade on your table saw if you have one, and use multiple passes to cut out each rabbet.

6. Drill ventilation holes in the side boards. When most laptops get too hot, internal fans kick on to circulate the air and move the heat away from delicate electrical components and out the back or bottom of the computer. Some laptops have passive cooling devices like heat pipes—small pipes filled with water or another coolant under a slight vacuum—that carry energy to a fan or radiator at the back of the computer. Whatever the case, if your stand simply traps that heat underneath the device, you’re not doing it any favors.

In order to keep the air flowing beneath my laptop stand, I added openings in the side panels. The easiest way to do this is to drill some holes with a 1.5- to 2-inch Forstner bit, or route out some slots. I decided to get fancy with mine, however, and drilled a series of holes, decreasing in size from 2 inches down to half an inch. These approximately follow the angle of the taper, creating a cool effect that didn’t take a ton of time… OK, that’s a lie—it took over an hour, between planning exactly which bits I wanted to use, how far apart to space the holes, and then drilling. Not to mention the increased sanding time. But I think the end result was worth it.

7. Round over all the exposed corners. This step takes some planning. You’ll want to round over all the outside edges of all the pieces, but not the edges that will be inside a rabbet. Otherwise you’ll get an awkward gap in the corners of the rabbets.

[Related: A beginner’s guide to Shapr3D]

Mark the edges you want to round over, as well as the ones you don’t, and try not to talk yourself into adding more roundovers in the heat of the moment when the router is in your hand. I did a few too many, and while the stand is structurally fine, the little gaps just mock me every time I look at them.

Use a router and whatever size roundover bit you have that makes sense with the aesthetic you’re going for. A router table is even better for this, if you have access to one.  

8. Sand. Sanding small projects like this gets tricky once they’re assembled, especially the interior parts. That’s why it’s a good practice to sand all of your pieces before assembly, even if you know you’ll have to do a bit more sanding later to clean up the seams. I’m lucky enough to have access to a drum sander at my local makerspace, so I used 120-grit sandpaper in that and finished this step in no time, with no hand cramping. Those of you without access to a drum sander, pick up that orbital sander and get cracking.

9. Laptop stand, assemble! I spent a lot longer than I’ll care to admit thinking about the best way to clamp this project together so it would remain square. My concern was that it would twist into a parallelogram instead of a proper rectangle when looking from the top down, losing the nice 90-degree corners. This honestly wouldn’t have been the end of the world, but I feel like I’m better than that at this point.

Debatable, but I wanted to do it right. 

Ultimately, I decided to assemble the stand in two stages. The first stage was to get the three support boards glued into place, and then I would attach the legs once those were dry. I glued and clamped the rear brace first, using the computer stop as a reference to keep the front from folding in. Then I glued the top brace and computer stop into place, and adjusted everything so the diagonals from corner to corner of the stand were all the same length—that’s the best way to know that a box is actually square.

Once the supports were dry, I glued and clamped the legs in place.

I’m sure there’s a jig you can build to make this clamping process easier if you’re making a lot of laptop stands, but when the glue dried, I was only a sixteenth-inch off corner to corner, which is well within tolerances for this project.  

10. Clean up any glue squeeze-out or residue. No matter how diligent you are with cleaning up glue while it’s wet, there will probably be some stains left over. Clean those up in whatever way works best for you. Sandpaper is the most accessible, but a chisel can be useful to get into those hard-to-reach nooks and crannies. I’m also partial to using a card scraper, though that takes quite a bit of practice to learn to use well—I’m still not great with one.

11. Apply your favorite finish. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the bottle. I like spray-on polyurethane or shellac for a project like this, because it’s fast, easy, and the spray can get into those hard-to-reach areas better than brushes typically can. If you use a spray-on finish, be careful not to linger in one place—this will help you avoid getting runs or drips that you have to sand off. For a perfectly smooth finish, rub the final coat down with a piece of brown paper bag.  

Once the finish is shined up to your liking, you’re done. Plop it down on your desk, elevate that laptop, and listen to the far quieter hum of a laptop fan that isn’t constantly on the verge of overheating. Your ears will thank you, your patience will thank you as you avoid annoying computer slowdowns, and your newly comfortable computer components will thank you too.

The post This DIY laptop stand will help keep your computer cool appeared first on Popular Science.

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The best Brother sewing machines of 2023 https://www.popsci.com/gear/best-brother-sewing-machines/ Thu, 16 Jun 2022 13:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=449198
The best Brother sewing machines
Stan Horaczek

The best equipment yields the best results, and Brother sewing machines are well-known in the world of sewing, quilting, and crafting for their quality and innovative features.

The post The best Brother sewing machines of 2023 appeared first on Popular Science.

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The best Brother sewing machines
Stan Horaczek

We may earn revenue from the products available on this page and participate in affiliate programs. Learn more ›

Best Overall Brother XM2701 Sewing Machine is the best overall. Brother XM2701 Sewing Machine
SEE IT

This model is a solid, mechanical sewing machine that offers automated functioning for multiple sewing purposes.

Best Budget Brother LX3817 Sewing Machine is the best for the budget. Brother LX3817 Sewing Machine
SEE IT

Here’s a mechanical model that won’t stress the wallet while it offers versatile functioning and ease of use.

Best Computerized Brother XR9550 Sewing and Quilting Machine is the best computerized. Brother XR9550 Sewing and Quilting Machine
SEE IT

A computerized machine with 165 built-in stitch options along with push-button stitch selection and automated functions.

A great Brother sewing machine meet the needs of the user and provide years of dependable service. Brother Industries Ltd. (the company that manufactures Brother sewing machines) traces its history back more than 100 years. In 1908, Kanekichi Yasui founded the Yasui Sewing Machine company, working at his home in Nagoya, Japan. He repaired industrial sewing machines and manufactured machine parts for local use. When Yasui’s sons inherited his company, they changed the name to Yasui Brothers’ Sewing Machine Company, and the company title eventually shortened to Brother.

Throughout its 114-year history, Brother Industries has developed into a global leader in the design, innovation, and manufacturing of sewing machines. Currently, the company offers one of the most advanced line-ups of innovative machinery for home-sewing pursuits. Its models include reliable sewing machines for basic projects, as well as state-of-the-art, computerized models designed for advanced embroidery, quilting, and crafting. Consumers rely on the best Brother sewing machines to provide quality, value, and features for both utilitarian and creative purposes. Here are our picks of the best Brother sewing machines the company’s impressive line-up.

How we chose the best Brother sewing machines

In the process of selecting six Brother sewing machines for our list of recommendations, we drew on personal experience, peer suggestions, and public opinion. We then narrowed it down to 11 different models and accessed the in-depth product details and specifications available on the Brother-USA company website. Then, we selected Brother products that are easily available and read the product descriptions, user impressions, and FAQs on retailer sites. Knowing that various readers bring an array of needs, preferences, and monetary resources to the search, we tried to assemble a diverse assortment of Brother sewing machines for our list.

We considered both computerized and mechanical sewing machines. Although the computerized models exhibit advanced, technological features, many users prefer the simple operating procedures and easy maintenance of the mechanical machines. Additionally, we looked for both computerized and mechanical models that provide automated processes such as needle threading and buttonhole making, as these features make sewing easier and more pleasurable. As a guiding principle, we searched for Brother sewing machines to meet the needs of beginning sewers and those who engage in basic sewing projects, as well as those with more advanced skills and experience in quilting, crafting, and fashion design. We endeavored to present Brother machines that meet the requirements of these various types of sewists. 

The best Brother sewing machines: Reviews & Recommendations

Best overall: Brother XM2701 Sewing Machine

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Why it made the cut: The Brother XM2701 sewing machine offers versatility as it provides automated features and numerous built-in stitches for advanced sewists along with ease of operation for beginners. 

Specs

  • Weight: 12.6 pounds
  • Product dimensions: 12.1 x 5.9 x 15.3 inches
  • Number of built-in stitches: 27

Pros

  • Automatic buttonhole function
  • Automatic needle threader
  • Both decorative and straight built-in stitches
  • 6 interchangeable feet included

Cons  

  • Not computerized

The Brother XM2701 sewing machine is easy to operate, making it a viable choice for beginners. On the other hand, it boasts a wide array of stitch options as well as automated features that appeal to experienced sewing enthusiasts. Stitch options include multiple decorative and quilting stitches along with basic, straight stitches for seams and basting. With 27 built-in stitches and 63 stitch functions, users can create crafts, fashions, home decor items, and quilts. 

Although it is not a computerized machine, the XM2701 offers several automated features to make sewing projects go more smoothly and quickly. For example, the automatic needle threader eliminates the frustration and eye strain that come with threading the needle by hand. An automatic, 1-step buttonhole function saves time and ensures consistent, professional-looking results. Additionally, the task of winding the bobbin is an automatic process.

Several convenient features make the XM2701 a popular and versatile sewing machine. The jam-resistant, drop-in bobbin is located on the top of the machine to speed up the sewing process. The work area is brightly lit by an LED light. Additionally, the free arm feature makes it easy to manipulate the fabric when sewing cuffs, sleeves, and pants. 

The XM2701 model includes six interchangeable feet to accomplish multiple sewing tasks, including: Buttonhole foot; Zipper foot; Zigzag foot; Narrow hemmer; Blind stitch; and Button-sewing foot.

Best computerized: Brother XR9550 Sewing and Quilting Machine

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Why it made the cut: With computerized, push-button stitch selection and automatic functioning, the Brother XR9550 sewing machine offers advanced features for quilters, crafters, and hobbyists as well as sewing artists. 

Specs

  • Weight: 10.14 pounds
  • Product dimensions: 20 x 13.5 x 17.9 inches 
  • Number of built-in stitches: 165

Pros

  • Extra-wide sewing surface for large projects
  • Push-button stitch selection, including decorative stitches and alphanumeric fonts
  • Automatic needle threader
  • Protective hard case included

Cons

  • Not the best choice for beginners

For the avid sewist who is ready to take their craft to a more sophisticated level, the Brother XR 9550 computerized sewing machine provides numerous features to spark the imagination and facilitate creative success. The machine offers 165 built-in stitches. These include utilitarian and decorative stitches along with heirloom stitches. Choose from among eight different buttonhole styles and the machine will automatically sew a tailored buttonhole around any button. For monogramming and personalizing projects, a selection of 55 alphanumeric stitches facilitates automatically sewing letters, numbers, and symbols onto fabrics. 

Numerous features of this machine provide ease of operation, taking the stress and frustration out of sewing. The built-in stitches are clearly marked on the front of the machine. Simply push a button for the computerized stitch-selection function and a backlit LCD display shows the appropriate choice. Additionally, this machine includes an automatic needle threader and a jam-resistant, top drop-in bobbin.

Quilters appreciate the drop-feed feature that facilitates free-sewing for quilting. The work surface is illuminated with a bright LED light and the extra-wide table allows quilters to handle bulky fabrics and large projects. Alternatively, sewists can use the free arm to sew sleeves, cuffs, and trouser legs.

The XR9550 includes seven interchangeable sewing feet along with accessories, including: Zigzag foot; Buttonhole foot; Button-sewing foot; Overcasting foot; Blind stitch foot; Monogramming foot; Quilting foot; Protective, hard cover; and an Instructional DVD.

Best for embroidery: Brother SE1900 Sewing and Embroidery Machine

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Why it made the cut: Sewists can achieve artist-quality results in creative DIY projects by choosing from among 138 built-in embroidery designs included in the Brother SE1900 sewing and embroidery machine.

Specs

  • Weight: 22.1 pounds
  • Product dimensions: 23.19 x 11.54 x 13.43 inches 
  • Number of built-in stitches: 138 embroidery designs + 240 built-in stitches

Pros

  • Large number of built-in embroidery designs and stitches
  • Built-in memory for imported embroidery designs
  • Built-in memory for personal, custom-designed stitches
  • LCD touchscreen display

Cons

  • Not the best choice for beginners

Take your sewing and crafting projects to the artist level with the Brother SE1900 computerized sewing and embroidery machine. Select from among 138 built-in embroidery designs and see them displayed on the large-size, full-color, LCD touchscreen. Alternatively, users can import new designs and save them to the machine. Additionally, the machine is capable of combining designs and storing them in its memory. Measuring 5 inches by 7 inches, the embroidery field provides ample versatility for creative sewists. A hoop is included to facilitate larger embroidery designs, so users are limited only by their imaginations.  

The 240 built-in stitches inspire customizing a plethora of crafting, quilting, and garment-making activities. Among the stitch options, the SE1900 offers 11 built-in fonts for monogramming and personalizing the original projects. Additionally, 10 styles of buttonhole stitches facilitate automatic sewing of precisely sized buttonholes.

Several convenient features of this computerized machine take the effort and frustration out of sewing pursuits. The advanced, automatic needle threader eliminates threading the needle by hand. Instead, the thread inserts precisely through the eye of the needle with a simple press of a lever. The jam-resistant feature facilitates a consistent feed of thread from the top drop-in bobbin, preventing the work delays that come with tangled threads. With a maximum speed of 850 stitches per minute along with labor-saving features for smooth operation, sewing on the SE1900 is an enjoyable and inspiring experience.

To facilitate a broad array of sewing tasks, this machine includes eight interchangeable sewing feet, including: Blind stitch foot; Buttonhole foot; Button fitting foot; Zipper foot; Zigzag foot; Monogramming foot; and Overcasting foot.

Best for beginners: Brother CP60X Computerized Sewing Machine

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Why it made the cut: The easy-to-use Brother CP60X computerized sewing machine is a top choice for beginners to embark on a learning adventure in the world of sewing, quilting, and crafting.

Specs

  • Weight: 14 pounds
  • Product dimensions: 16.26 x 6.65 x 12.21 inches 
  • Number of built-in stitches: 60

Pros

  • Utilitarian and decorative stitches built in
  • Automatic needle threader
  • Durable metal frame
  • Capable of sewing denim and thick fabrics

Cons

  • Not capable of monogramming

Use the Brother CP60X computerized sewing machine to embark on a lifelong hobby of sewing, crafting, and quilting. It offers straightforward, easy-to-use operating procedures, suitable for beginning sewers. An array of 60 built-in stitch options is prominently displayed on the front of the machine. Make a choice by simply pressing a button and the information shows up on the clearly visible LCD screen. In addition to decorative and heirloom stitches, the machine offers a selection of seven auto-size, buttonhole stitches. 

With a fixed needle bar, this machine is particularly well-suited for beginning sewers. The needle remains fixed in place to ensure clean stitching and even seam lines. Additionally, the 2-step, automatic needle threader accurately pushes the thread through the eye of the needle. It saves time and frustration so that beginners can enjoy their sewing activities. 

The CP60X is a versatile sewing machine for multiple purposes. With its heavy-duty frame and exceptionally smooth feed system, the machine handles denim and other thick fabrics without snagging. A favorite feature of quilters, the drop-feed system allows free-motion sewing. Additionally, the machine facilitates free-arm sewing for constructing shirts, cuffs, and trousers. 

This CP60X provides an ample collection of accessories to get started with a sewing hobby. These include a 3-piece needle set, bobbins and a bobbin cover, a quilt guide, and a bilingual instruction manual. The included supply of seven interchangeable feet facilitates multiple types of sewing tasks, including: Blind stitch foot; Zigzag foot; Buttonhole foot; Button sewing foot; Overcasting foot; Zipper foot; and Monogramming foot (used for decorative stitches only).

Best for quilting: Brother XR3774 Sewing and Quilting Machine

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Why it made the cut: With built-in stitches for both utilitarian and decorative applications along with automatic features and an extra-wide table that accommodates quilts, the Brother XR3774 is a standout machine for quilters.

Specs

  • Weight: 15.87 pounds
  • Product dimensions: 15.3 x 5.8 x 12 inches 
  • Number of built-in stitches: 37

Pros

  • Wide work surface for bulky quilts and large sewing projects
  • One-step buttonhole function
  • Automatic needle threader
  • Jam-resistant, drop-in bobbin

Cons

  • Not computerized

Here’s a mechanical sewing machine with automated features and a large workspace for bulky projects. The large throat area and the extra-wide work table make the Brother XR3774 sewing and quilting machine a viable choice for quilters. For projects other than quilts, sewists may utilize the free arm. This feature facilitates sewing sleeves, cuffs, trousers, and skinny jeans. 

In addition to providing ample space for quilting, this machine offers ease-of-use through several automated functions. The 1-step buttonhole stitch automatically turns out perfectly sized buttonholes. An automatic needle threading system eliminates the frustrating task of threading the needle by hand. Simply press a lever on the side of the machine and the thread inserts precisely through the eye of the needle. Additionally, the top drop-in bobbin winds automatically, and it’s jam-resistant to ensure a smooth, continuous feed of thread. 

The XR3774 includes 37 built-in stitches that produce 74 stitch functions when applied to various sewing tasks. These include both utilitarian and decorative stitch options for multiple sewing and quilting purposes. The 37 pre-set stitches are prominently displayed on the front of the machine. Select a unique stitch pattern by simply turning a dial to the appropriate number. 

This machine includes an ample supply of accessories to facilitate varied sewing and quilting activities, including: Walking foot; Blind stitch foot; Zigzag foot; Zipper foot; Buttonhole foot; Button sewing foot; Spring-action quilting foot; Narrow hem foot; Wide table, detachable work surface; Hard cover to protect the machine when not in use; and an Instructional DVD. Here are more of our picks for the best sewing machines for quilting.

Best budget: Brother LX3817 Sewing Machine

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Why it made the cut: The Brother LX3817 is an affordable machine for the sewing hobbyist, offering ease of operation along with versatile features for basic sewing tasks as well as creative projects.

Specs

  • Weight: 10.36 pounds
  • Product dimensions: 17x 7 x 14 inches 
  • Number of built-in stitches: 17

Pros

  • 17 built-in stitches
  • 4-step buttonhole function
  • LED light for well-lit workspace
  • Jam resistant bobbin

Cons 

  • Not computerized
  • Not as many built-in stitches as other machines

Available at a budget-friendly price, the LX3817 sewing machine provides an array of features to suit the needs of beginners, as well as experienced sewing hobbyists. It’s a full-size machine with 17 built-in stitch options. These include straight stitches, zigzag stitches, blind hem stitch, and couching stitches. The stitch choices are clearly marked on the selection dial, located on the front of the machine. Simply turn the dial to choose the desired stitch patterns for constructing garments, sewing crafts, and embellishing home decor creations. 

In addition to the 17 stitch options, the LX3817 provides a 4-step buttonhole function. With a quick turn of the dial, users may select the appropriate stitches to produce consistent, auto-size buttonholes, lending a professional look to finished projects. 

Several features make this machine a pleasure to use. The work area is well-lit with an LED light and the bobbin cover is transparent for visually monitoring the thread supply. The jam-resistant feature means that the thread on the drop-in bobbin does not become entangled. A convenient control dial lets users adjust the upper tension to avoid loose stitches or fabric puckering. Additionally, the machine’s design facilitates free-arm sewing for cuffs, sleeves, and trouser legs. 

This machine includes four interchangeable feet: Zigzag foot; Zipper foot; Buttonhole foot; and Button-sewing foot. The LX3817 includes all necessary parts to ensure success on multiple sewing and crafting projects, including: Darning plate; Bobbin cover; Bobbins; Set of 3 needles; and an Instructional DVD.

What to consider when buying the best Brother sewing machines

With a large number of options to choose from, it can be daunting for any consumer to select the most appropriate Brother sewing machine for their purposes. Here are several factors to consider before making a selection:

Computerized or mechanical?

Brother Industries manufactures both mechanical and computerized sewing machines. The mechanical models tend to be easier to operate and maintain. They’re durable and reliable, offering basic sewing features for beginners and hobbyists. As an added bonus, many of the mechanical models include automatic functions for ease of use. On the other hand, some sewists prefer the advanced, technological capabilities of computerized sewing machines. Especially for embroidery, crafting, and quilting projects, the computerized machines can’t be beat.

Built-in stitches

As a standard feature, all Brother sewing machines include varying arrays of built-in stitches. These range in style from straight, utilitarian designs for basting and sewing seams to complex, decorative stitches for the artistic embellishment of garments, quilts, home decor, and crafts. The built-in stitches offered by the Brother sewing machines reviewed here range from as few as 17 to as many as 240 options. Advanced, computerized machines include alphanumeric fonts among their built-in stitches to facilitate monogramming and customization of sewing projects. Additionally, the Brother sewing-and-embroidery machines include built-in embroidery designs with memory capability for importing or creating additional options. 

Automatic features

In addition to computerized and mechanical operating systems, shoppers might consider the availability of automatic functions on various Brother sewing machines. These features make the machines easier to use and increase the enjoyment of sewing as a pleasurable activity. Many of the Brother machines offer automatic needle threading. This function saves time, frustration, and eye strain as it eliminates the need to thread the needle by hand. Additionally, the inclusion of a 4-step or 1-step buttonhole function is a time-saver for sewists as it tailors a buttonhole of the precise size and shape for every button.

FAQs

Q: How do you thread a Brother sewing machine?

You thread a Brother sewing machine by following the steps in the instruction manual. First, turn off the machine. Then raise both the presser foot and the needle. Pull up the spool pin on top of the machine and place a spool of thread on it. Pass the thread toward you in the groove on the thread guide, and a spring will catch the thread. Pass it through the take-up lever from right to left. Bring the thread behind the guide above the needle. Thread the needle from front to back.

Q: Are Brother sewing machines good for beginners?

Several models of Brother sewing machines are good for beginners. A beginner might enjoy learning to sew on the XM2701, the LX3817, or the CP60X models. These machines offer versatile features with easy-to-use operating procedures. Prefer another brand? Check out the best Singer sewing machines.

Q: How do you use a Brother sewing machine?

A Brother sewing machine may be used for sewing garments and home decor items from original designs or from commercial patterns. Alternatively, it can be used for creating and embellishing craft projects or making quilts. Select a Brother sewing machine that exhibits the qualities to meet your needs, Then, simply follow the directions in the instruction manual or DVD that comes with the machine. 

Q: How do you set up a Brother sewing machine?

You set up a Brother sewing machine by following the steps in the instruction manual or DVD that comes with the machine. It’s a good idea to read the manual or watch the DVD before setting up the machine. To get started, place the sewing machine on a clean, flat work surface. Attach the power cord and the foot-pedal cord. Place a spool of thread on the thread pin and follow the markings for the thread path, culminating in threading the needle automatically or by hand. Wind thread onto the bobbin, and drop the bobbin into its case. 

Q: What’s the easiest sewing machine to use?

The easiest sewing machine to use is a mechanical model with clearly marked stitches, thread guides, and stitch-selector dial. Computerized models with numerous stitch options and advanced, automatic features may be more complex in their operating procedures.

Q: How do I choose a good sewing machine?

You can choose a good sewing machine by deciding the type of sewing projects you wish to undertake. Perhaps you’re a beginner who wants to learn basic sewing techniques. On the other hand, you might be an experienced quilter or crafter who needs a more advanced machine. After determining your needs, research sewing machines on the manufacturers’ websites. Investigate options at a local dealer’s store, if possible. Additionally, it helps to read consumer reviews and ratings.

Q: How much does a Brother sewing machine cost?

Brother sewing machines vary in cost from approximately $130.00 for a basic, mechanical machine to $900.00 for an advanced, computerized sewing machine that creates colorful, artistic designs on fabric. Computerized machines that provide versatile features for sewing, crafting, and quilting range in price from approximately $200.00 to $400.00.

Final thoughts on the best Brother sewing machines

Many sewists appreciate the straightforward operating procedures and simplified maintenance of a non-computerized sewing machine such as the Brother XM2701 model. It’s a popular, mechanical machine that provides an ample selection of built-in stitches along with automatic needle threading and buttonhole making. Overall, the XM2701 offers value and versatility for multiple sewing and crafting activities.

Why trust us

Popular Science started writing about technology more than 150 years ago. There was no such thing as “gadget writing” when we published our first issue in 1872, but if there was, our mission to demystify the world of innovation for everyday readers means we would have been all over it. Here in the present, PopSci is fully committed to helping readers navigate the increasingly intimidating array of devices on the market right now.

Our writers and editors have combined decades of experience covering and reviewing consumer electronics. We each have our own obsessive specialties—from high-end audio to video games to cameras and beyond—but when we’re reviewing devices outside of our immediate wheelhouses, we do our best to seek out trustworthy voices and opinions to help guide people to the very best recommendations. We know we don’t know everything, but we’re excited to live through the analysis paralysis that internet shopping can spur so readers don’t have to.

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The best Singer sewing machines of 2023 https://www.popsci.com/gear/best-singer-sewing-machines/ Wed, 15 Jun 2022 13:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=448954
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For your next creative project, trust the company that’s been manufacturing high-quality sewing machines for 171 years.

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Best overall SINGER Quantum Stylist 9960 Sewing & Quilting Machine is the best overall. SINGER | Quantum Stylist 9960 Sewing & Quilting Machine
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A computerized machine with convenient, automatic features.

Best budget SINGER | MX60 Sewing Machine With Accessory Kit is the best for the budget. SINGER | MX60 Sewing Machine With Accessory Kit
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A basic, mechanical machine that offers straightforward operating procedures.

Best for beginners SINGER | Start 1304 Sewing Machine is the best for beginners. SINGER | Start 1304 Sewing Machine
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An optimal choice for teens and adult beginners or sewing hobbyists who want a simple-to-use machine.

A good Singer sewing machine is the one that meets the needs of the individual. With many models to choose from, beginning hobbyists, as well as experienced sewing artists, can find appropriate models to facilitate their creative sewing efforts and produce pleasing results. 

Since 1851, when Isaac Singer patented the first practical sewing machine, the Singer company has been serving the public with reliable sewing machines manufactured from high-quality materials with precisely functioning component parts. Innovation and creative product development mark the company’s history. In the years since that first patent, the Singer company introduced the first electronic sewing machines, the first zigzag-stitch machines, and the first sewing-assistant app for mobile devices. 

Today, Singer offers a plethora of sewing machine models for a wide range of sewing purposes. These include quilt-making, garment construction, embroidery, crafts, and fabricating home decor items such as curtains and toss pillows. Shoppers have many options to choose from when selecting the best Singer sewing machine for each individual sewer’s needs.

How we chose the best Singer sewing machines

To assemble our list of six recommended products, we took into account personal experience, peer suggestions, and user impressions to identify 13 top Singer sewing machines intended for home use. Although our selections are all available on Amazon, we did not limit our research to standard specs and basic product descriptions. Instead, we went to the source by consulting the Singer company website. There, we found more in-depth information to bring greater clarity to the selection process for our readers.

First, we distinguished between sewing machines with either computerized or mechanical operating systems and focused on products in both categories. Then, we looked for both basic and advanced features to suit the varying needs of shoppers. For example, we considered machines with a great quantity of pre-set stitch choices and programmable functions such as automatic needle threading, one-step buttonholes, and push-button stitch selection. Alternatively, we considered simple machines with basic, mechanical functions that meet the needs of many sewists and crafters, including beginners. Additionally, we considered machines in the mid-to-upper price range, as well as more budget-friendly choices. We did not consider industrial or professional machines, such as those that perform serging and overlocking functions. 

The best Singer sewing machines: Reviews & Recommendations

Best overall: SINGER | Quantum Stylist 9960 Sewing & Quilting Machine 

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Why it made the cut: The Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 machine offers computerized operation with a vast array of optional functions to turn out creative, personalized sewing projects.

Specs

  • Weight: 20 pounds
  • Dimensions: 17.25 x 8.25 x 12 inches
  • Computerized or mechanical: Computerized

Pros

  • 600 built-in stitch applications
  • Automatic needle threader
  • 5 alphanumeric fonts for monogramming and personalizing projects
  • High speed, up to 850 stitches per minute

Cons

  • Somewhat expensive
  • Occasional issues with the automatic tension

Creative sewists find that this machine meets and exceeds their needs for versatility and ease of use. With the outstanding features on Singer’s Quantum Stylist 9960 machine, users are limited only by their own imaginations. The machine simplifies the processes needed to turn out beautiful quilts, crafts, home decor, and fashion projects. 

With its up-to-date, computerized operating system, the Quantum Stylist provides numerous options for sewing speed, precision, and multipurpose functioning. It offers 600 built-in stitches, ranging from basic to stretch and decorative options. The stitch choices include five alphanumeric fonts for monogramming or personalizing projects, as well as 13 alternatives for 1-step buttonholes. For ultimate ease, the machine includes a specialized underplate to successfully create perfect tailoring on every buttonhole.

The Quantum Stylist is capable of producing 850 stitches per minute, facilitating the quick completion of sewing projects. Additionally, the automatic needle threader speeds up the tedious task of threading the machine’s needle. Within seconds, users can have the entire machine automatically threaded, from the spool to the eye of the needle. This feature eliminates the frustration and eye strain associated with threading the needle by hand.

To facilitate a broad range of creative crafts and sewing projects, the Quantum Stylist 9960 includes a sizable array of accessories. These include the following attachable, working parts: All-purpose foot; Zipper foot; Buttonhole foot; Open toe foot; Overcasting foot; Darning and embroidery foot; Rolled hem foot; Cording foot; Straight stitch and quilting food; and Even-feed or walking foot.

Singer’s Quantum Stylist 9960 is suitable for creative types who design and fabricate their own fashions, as well as those who turn out heirloom-quality quilts and custom-craft handiwork. Additionally, it serves users who simply want to make clothing from commercial patterns or construct simple toss-pillows and curtains for their home decor. Overall, it’s a high-quality, multifunctional, and dependable machine.

Best for beginners: SINGER | Start 1304 Sewing Machine

SINGER

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Why it made the cut: Older children and teens, as well as adult beginners, might use the Singer Start 1304 machine to embark on a journey of creative discovery and productivity through sewing.

Specs

  • Weight: 9.8 pounds
  • Product dimensions: 13 x 7 x 11.5 inches
  • Computerized or mechanical: Mechanical

Pros 

  • Lightweight and portable
  • Full metal frame
  • 6 built-in stitches for 57 stitch applications
  • Includes a quick-start guide and an instruction manual

Cons

  • Not for quilting
  • Not for heavy-duty fabrics

The simplified operational procedures of this mechanical sewing machine make it ideal for casual hobbyists and beginning sewers. Older children and teens might use this machine to launch a lifelong fascination with the arts of sewing, quilting, and crafting. The Singer Start 1304 offers basic features with enough variable options to facilitate creativity and versatility in sewing projects. 

A manual dial on the front of the machine displays six clearly marked stitch choices. With a simple turn of the dial, users can employ these stitches with pre-set lengths and widths to accomplish up to 57 stitch applications. In addition to straight stitches for seams and hems, beginners can experiment with decorative scallops and zigzag stitches to embellish their work.

In addition to straight and decorative stitches, the Start 1304 boasts a simple, 4-step buttonhole system with clearly marked designations on the stitch selector dial. Even beginners can turn out tailored buttonholes every time. Although the machine is lightweight, compact, and portable, it features a full metal frame inside the plastic outer casing. This construction ensures durability for years of service as well as stability on a tabletop or work surface.

For versatile use on a variety of sewing projects, the Start 1304 includes numerous attachable working parts along with other helpful accessories. These include the following: All-purpose foot; Zipper foot; Buttonhole foot; Darning plate; Pack of needles; Bobbins; Needle plate; Screwdriver; Spool pin felts; Seam ripper and lint brush; Power line cord; Foot pedal control; Quick-start guide; and Instruction manual.

Best heavy-duty: SINGER | 4423 Heavy Duty Sewing Machine

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Why it made the cut: With a motor that is 60-percent more powerful than most, the Singer 4423 sewing machine handles thick seams and heavy-duty fabrics such as denim and canvas. 

Specs

  • Weight: 14.5 pounds
  • Product dimensions: 15.5 x 6.25 x 12 inches
  • Computerized or mechanical: Mechanical

Pros

  • Heavy-duty, interior, metal frame
  • Extra-powerful motor
  • High-speed performance
  • Sews lightweight, sheer fabrics as well as heavy-duty materials

Cons

  • Not the best choice for thick leather and thick canvas

Sew through denim, canvas, and heavy wool fabrics with the Singer 4423 machine. It boasts a motor that is 60-percent more powerful than standard sewing machine motors, making this model a workhorse for multiple sewing projects. Additionally, both the heavy-duty metal frame and the stainless-steel bedplate assure stability in operation along with long-wearing durability. Yet, this machine also handles lightweight, sheer materials. The smooth, stainless-steel bed plate along with the adjustable pressure for the presser-foot allow sheer fabrics to glide across the bed’s surface without snagging.

With its powerful motor, the Singer 4423 sewing machine boasts exceptional sewing speed. It’s easy to complete sewing projects in record time when the machine produces up to 1,100 precision stitches per minute. A clearly marked dial allows users to select from a variety of preset stitches to create up to 97 stitch applications. Select the 1-step buttonhole feature to save time and frustration by producing consistent buttonholes every time. Simply place the button in the buttonhole foot, and the machine automatically sews a precision buttonhole around it.

On the outer casing surface, clear markings indicate the procedure for threading the machine from the top-loading, drop-in bobbin to the needle. Then, the built-in, automatic needle threader takes over to thread the needle, thereby saving the user from annoyance and eye strain. 

The Singer 4423 heavy-duty machine includes a package of 4 interchangeable feet along with multiple accessories such as bobbins, needles, a quilting guide, and more. Additionally, a soft-sided dust cover is included to protect the machine when it’s not in use.

Best portable: SINGER | Stitch Quick + Handheld Mending Machine

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Why it made the cut: The Singer Stitch Quick + is a battery-operated, handheld sewing machine that delivers meticulous results on quick repairs and hems, eliminating the need to set up a full-size machine.

Specs 

  • Weight: 1.45 pounds
  • Dimensions: 9.7 x 4.1 x 6 inches
  • Computerized or mechanical: Mechanical

Pros 

  • Ultimate portability
  • May be used in locations without electricity
  • No need to set up a full-size machine
  • More precise results than hand-sewing on hems and repairs 

Cons

  • Not suitable for constructing garments and full-size projects
  • Not for heavy-duty use

Save time and effort when you use this mini, handheld, cordless mending machine. With the Singer Stitch-Quick +, there’s no need to set up a full-size sewing machine when it’s time to make rapid repairs on garments and home decor items. Use it to quickly hem a pair of pants, a skirt, or household curtains. Grab this handheld tool when it’s time to mend a ripped seam in a hurry. Weighing only 1.45 pounds, the diminutive machine is easy to store and to transport. Take it along wherever it might be necessary to complete a minor sewing task. It requires only 4 AA batteries (may we suggest rechargeables).

On the other hand, the Stitch Quick + might be the ideal learning tool for an older child or teen to get started with sewing. A convenient switch on the front of the machine allows the user to choose either desktop or handheld operating modes. From there, the beginning sewer can learn many of the same procedures that pertain to standard sewing-machine operation. 

Singer designs this machine with attention to ergonomic considerations for handheld use. The handle grip is designed to offer the most advantageous balance and control. A safety lock prevents accidental operation. 

Use the Stitch Quick + for sewing paper as well as fabric. It’s useful for making crafts. The machine uses two threads to produce permanent, interlocking stitches. Replace the upper bobbin with the large spool pin to facilitate using standard-size thread spools. This diminutive machine contains many of the working parts of a standard sewing machine. These include the following: Built-in thread cutter; Drop-in bobbin compartment; Bobbin winder; Presser foot; Needle; Adjustable tension control dial; Handwheel; and Built-in storage compartment for notions.

Best for embroidery: SINGER | Legacy SE300 Sewing and Embroidery Machine

Singer

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Why it made the cut: The Singer Legacy SE300 comes with 200 embroidery designs and 250 stitches, making this an ideal choice for people who love to embroider and embellish their work.

Specs

  • Weight: 20.5 pounds
  • Dimensions: 17.25 x 8.25 x 12 inches  
  • Computerized or mechanical: Computerized

Pros

  • 200 included embroidery designs
  • Fast sewing speed of 800 stitches per minute
  • Six fonts included

Cons

  • Expensive
  • Software only available for Windows

If embroidery is your thing, consider the Singer Legacy SE300. The machine comes with a large and small embroidery hoop, plus 7.25 inches of space to hold your project. The included 200 embroidery designs and six fonts will give you plenty of options. The SE300 provides basic stitches along with a wide range of decorative stitches and will automatically set the length, width, pressure, and more. It also has memory to save four individual stitching sequences. 

Capable of up to 800 stitches per minute, the SE300 can move through projects fast. To convert it from sewing to embroidery mode, just attach the embroidery foot. The LCD and touch screens help simplify the job and the machine has online training as part of the package. It also comes with software, but it’s only compatible with Windows. It’s also one of the pricier models on the list. 

Best for quilting: SINGER | Confidence 7469Q Computerized Quilting & Sewing Machine

SINGER

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: The Singer Confidence 7469Q computerized sewing machine includes automatic functions and attachable working parts that facilitate many of the specialized sewing procedures for quilt-making.

Specs

  • Weight: 16.25 pounds
  • Dimensions: 17 x 8 x 12.5 inches  
  • Computerized or mechanical: Computerized

Pros 

  • Includes 4 bonus feet designed for quilting
  • 98 built-in stitches
  • Automatic needle threader
  • Drop-feed lever for free-motion sewing

Cons

  • Not the best choice for beginners

Many quilters, crafters, and avid sewists appreciate the push-button operating ease of a computerized sewing machine. When it comes to quilting, the Singer Confidence 7469Q does not disappoint. Several features of this machine make quilting easier and more enjoyable, yielding creatively inspiring results.

These features include: Darning and embroidery foot for stippling; even-feed or walking foot for smooth fabric flow; open-toe foot for improved visibility; 0.25-inch foot for piecing together quilting blocks; large sewing surface to handle large quilts; extension table included to extend the sewing surface; programmable needle up/down feature for piecing together quilts; and drop-feed lever lowers the feed teeth for free-motion sewing.

Select from 98 built-in stitches for basic and decorative sewing and quilting projects. The most frequently used stitches are displayed on the front of the machine and available at the touch of a button. However, the lengths and widths of the preprogrammed stitches may be adjusted by the user. 

Several convenient features of this computerized machine are designed to save time and effort for sewists. The drop-and-sew bobbin system eliminates the need for raising the bobbin thread before sewing. Simply drop in the bobbin and start sewing immediately. For added convenience, the bobbin cover is transparent, facilitating continuous monitoring of the thread supply. Additionally, the machine offers an automatic needle threader to save the user time and frustration while working.

Sewing buttonholes is a breeze with the Confidence 7569Q one-step buttonhole function. Simply place the button in the buttonhole foot, and the machine sews a perfectly tailored buttonhole around it. 

Best budget: SINGER | MX60 Sewing Machine With Accessory Kit

SINGER

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: Available at an affordable price, the Singer MX60 sewing machine is a solid choice for a lightweight, portable tool that provides reliable service for basic sewing and craft projects.

Specs

  • Weight: 12.17 pounds
  • Product dimensions: 13 x 7 x 11.5 inches
  • Computerized or mechanical: Mechanical

Pros

  • Lightweight for portability and storage
  • Full metal frame
  • 57 stitch applications
  • 4-step buttonhole function

Cons

  • Not computerized
  • Not for heavy-duty fabrics such as denim or canvas

Here’s a mechanical sewing machine that offers solid, basic features for a wide variety of sewing projects. Many users prefer mechanical machines like the Singer MX60 because the manual controls are simple to use and the machine is easy to maintain over time. Offering an array of useful features, this machine is suitable for beginners as well as experienced sewists.

With a choice of 57 stitch applications, the MX60 is capable of producing decorative sewing as well as basic seams. The stitch choices vary in both length and width. Various stitch options are suitable for piecing quilts, sewing garments, or creating crafts with decorative stitching. Moreover, the stitch selector dial is uncomplicated to use, eliminating mistakes and frustration. 

The MX60 does not boast an automatic needle threader, but it does provide easy-to-follow threading guides that are clearly marked on the machine’s outer surface. Additionally, the LED lighting saves users from straining their eyes while threading the machine. With a front-loading bobbin, the machine can be threaded and ready for use in only a few seconds. A simple lever switches from forward to reverse sewing for finishing off seams, and the tension adjustment allows users to fine-tune the machine for a variety of fabric types.

Weighing in at only 12.7 pounds and exhibiting a compact size, the Singer MX60 is ideal for users who want a portable machine. It’s easy to lift, carry, and store, making it a practical choice for those who work in small spaces. Despite its small size and minimal weight, the MX60 boasts a full metal frame inside the plastic outer shell. This substantial frame provides stability that allows the machine to sew smoothly, without skipping.

What to consider when buying the best Singer sewing machines

Before making an investment in a Singer sewing machine, shoppers might consider their individual sewing aspirations. For example, a beginner who wants to create simple crafts and home decor items will have needs that are different from those of an experienced quilter or a sewist who aspires to develop their personal fashion line. Based on the extent and complexity of their anticipated sewing projects, shoppers might consider several factors in the selection process. 

Computerized or mechanical

Computerized sewing machines offer convenience to sewers via their programmable features and push-button operating ease. However, computerized machines are more expensive than mechanical models. Avid sewing artists and quilters might be willing to pay the additional cost for the convenient, computerized functions and the precision results that they facilitate. On the other hand, beginners and hobbyists might prefer the simplicity of mechanical sewing machines. The mechanical models tend to offer more straightforward operating procedures along with easier maintenance.

Built-in stitches and stitch applications

Both computerized and mechanical sewing machines include varying quantities of built-in or pre-set stitches. These fall into three categories, including straight stitches for seams, decorative stitches for embellishments, and buttonhole stitches. With a number of built-in stitches, machines offer a broad range of stitch applications. These applications involve various sewing techniques that can be accomplished with built-in stitch selections. For example, a machine with 98 built-in stitches might facilitate up to 600 stitch applications. Alternatively, a machine with 6 built-in stitches may facilitate 57 stitch applications. 

Size, weight, and portability

Tabletop sewing machines vary in size from around 13 inches to 17 inches in length and 11 inches to 12 inches in height. Most are around 7 inches to 8.5 inches in width. Similarly, they vary in weight from approximately 10 pounds to 20 pounds. All of the tabletop machines included in this round-up may be considered portable. However, the smaller and lighter weight machines are easier to set up, move, and store. For sewers who live in small spaces, a small and lightweight machine might be the most convenient for moving from place to place in the home as well as for storage. 

FAQs

Q: What is the best Singer sewing machine to purchase?

The best Singer sewing machine to purchase is the Singer Quantum Stylist 9960. This computerized machine offers multiple automatic functions to make sewing procedures easier and more convenient. Features such as push-button stitch selection, automatic needle threading, and one-step buttonholes make this machine a top choice for quilters, crafters, and sewing enthusiasts.

Q: Are Singer sewing machines good?

Singer sewing machines are good choices for home use. Many crafters, sewists, and quilters rate Singer machines as their top choices. The Singer company has earned a reputation for manufacturing reliable, high-quality sewing machines for more than 170 years.

Q: How much does a Singer sewing machine cost?

Singer sewing machines range in price from $84.99 for a simple mending machine to $1,099.99 for a sewing and embroidery machine. Mid-range prices include mechanical and heavy-duty sewing machines for around $200 to $300. Computerized machines and sergers are available in the $200-to-$500 range.

Q: What is the most reliable brand of sewing machine?

Singer is considered by many consumers to be the most reliable brand of sewing machine. With a 171-year history, the Singer company has built a reputation for selling high-quality, durable machines that the public can rely on. 

Q: Which is the best sewing machine for home use?

The best machine for home use is one that suits the purposes and level of experience of the user. For example, a sewer who creates quilts might choose the Singer Confidence 7469Q machine. It offers specific features that make quilt-making procedures easier. On the other hand, a shopper who wants to begin a new sewing hobby might be better served by choosing the Start 1304 model. It’s designed to deliver positive results to beginning sewists as they create basic sewing and craft projects. 

Q: Is Singer better than Brother?

Singer is better than Brother, according to many consumers. With a 171-year history, the Singer brand has been around for longer than the Brother brand. However, the brands are certainly competitive. For many consumers, the choice between the two brands is dictated by the distinct features of individual machines. Shoppers looking for machines with specific features might choose a Singer machine over a Brother machine. Those looking for a different set of features might select Brother over Singer.

Final thoughts on the best Singer sewing machines

The Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 is our choice for the best Singer sewing machine. It’s a computerized sewing machine that offers advanced features to make sewing easier. It’s suitable for serious and experienced quilters, crafters, and sewists, but the clearly marked design facilitates use by beginners, as well. Multiple automatic functions take the guesswork out of sewing procedures and produce consistently excellent results in finished sewing projects. 

Why trust us

Popular Science started writing about technology more than 150 years ago. There was no such thing as “gadget writing” when we published our first issue in 1872, but if there was, our mission to demystify the world of innovation for everyday readers means we would have been all over it. Here in the present, PopSci is fully committed to helping readers navigate the increasingly intimidating array of devices on the market right now.

Our writers and editors have combined decades of experience covering and reviewing consumer electronics. We each have our own obsessive specialties—from high-end audio to video games to cameras and beyond—but when we’re reviewing devices outside of our immediate wheelhouses, we do our best to seek out trustworthy voices and opinions to help guide people to the very best recommendations. We know we don’t know everything, but we’re excited to live through the analysis paralysis that internet shopping can spur so readers don’t have to.

The post The best Singer sewing machines of 2023 appeared first on Popular Science.

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Go ahead, leave your fresh eggs on the counter in this handmade wooden tray https://www.popsci.com/diy/wooden-egg-holder-diy/ Thu, 13 Apr 2023 12:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=533751
Twelve fresh eggs in a DIY wooden egg holder on a granite countertop.
You can put all your eggs in this holder (or build more). Jean Leavasseur

Newly laid, unwashed eggs can be kept out, but store-bought or washed eggs should go in the fridge.

The post Go ahead, leave your fresh eggs on the counter in this handmade wooden tray appeared first on Popular Science.

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Twelve fresh eggs in a DIY wooden egg holder on a granite countertop.
You can put all your eggs in this holder (or build more). Jean Leavasseur

One of the perks of living in a semi-rural area is the availability of fresh eggs. At least four people I know have hens roaming their yards, so my wife and I get all the eggs we can use, and then some. They end up in a wooden egg holder that sits right out on the counter.

That’s right, freshly-laid eggs don’t have to be refrigerated and can be kept at room temperature for weeks. Indeed, in many places around the world, eggs typically aren’t refrigerated at all. In the US, though, both the Federal Drug Administration and the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention recommend always refrigerating eggs. However, that’s not directly because of the eggs themselves—it’s to prevent bacterial illnesses, specifically salmonella.

Do eggs need to be refrigerated?

Although they seem solid, eggshells are actually porous, says Cole Trager, supply and quality specialist at Walden Local Meat Co. in Massachusetts. These pores let gases into and out of the shell, but can also allow bacteria like salmonella to get inside, causing the egg to spoil faster and potentially sickening anyone who eats it. 

Freshly laid eggs have a natural defense against bacteria: a protective protein coating called the cuticle, or “bloom,” says Jacob R. Tuell, assistant professor of animal science and food science at Northwest Missouri State University. The bloom seals up those pores, preventing bacteria from sneaking inside. Research has shown that the cuticle is effective at keeping salmonella at bay for about three to four days after laying, he explains. After that, its effectiveness begins to deteriorate. In the US, commercially produced eggs are washed to eliminate any possible salmonella, but that washing process also removes the protective bloom. This, in turn, speeds up the spoiling process and necessitates refrigeration. Elsewhere, eggs often aren’t washed before being sold, so the bloom remains in place, sealing out any bacteria. In short: if you bought your eggs at a store, are unsure how fresh they are, or don’t know if they’ve been washed, put them in the fridge.

However, flocks raised in US backyards don’t have the same washing requirements, Trager says. “If you keep the coop clean and have good bedding, there’s really no reason to refrigerate or wash the eggs.” As long as the bloom remains intact, eggs can last for weeks at room temperature without spoiling, he explains.

[Related: Why you should build a swing for your chickens]

As your eggs age, you can test them for spoilage in a bowl of water before cooking them, says Tuell, who’s also a member of the Institute of Food Technologists’ Muscle Foods Division. “An egg has an air cell that gradually increases in size during storage. When placed into water, an older egg may float, while a fresher egg would sink.”

And of course, there’s no reason you can’t store fresh eggs in the refrigerator if that makes you more comfortable, washed or unwashed. Once they go in, though, they have to stay there. However, Trager cautions against storing washed eggs on a wooden tray. Wood is too porous to be properly sterilized and may transfer contaminants through the pores of the bloom-less eggs, he explains. So if you’re planning to make this wooden egg tray, only use it for fresh, unwashed eggs.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a face mask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

How to build a wooden egg holder

Stats

  • Time: 1 to 2 hours
  • Material cost: $5 to $20
  • Difficulty: easy

Materials

  • A 2-foot-long, 1-by-4-inch board (any kind of wood you like)
  • Wood glue
  • (Optional) ¼-inch dowel

Tools

Instructions

1. Mill your lumber to size. This is one of those projects where having flat, square boards will make your life easier. We have a comprehensive guide to milling lumber, but it’s a straightforward process. Start by cutting the pieces of the egg holder to rough length on your miter saw: one board of 13 inches and two of about 5 inches each. Then run them over your jointer to flatten one face, and again to flatten and square one edge. 

Next, take them to your planer to flatten the remaining face, and trim them down to final width and length on your table saw. When you’re done, you should have three boards, all between ½ and ¾ inches thick: 

  • 1 (12½-by-4-inch) board
  • 2 (5–by-4-inch) boards

If you purchased pre-milled, square wood, you may be able to skip this step. But double-check that everything actually is flat and square.

2. Measure and mark the egg hole locations on the longest board. Before measuring the centers of the 12 holes on this board, use a square to draw a line across what will be the top of your egg holder, parallel to the end of the board and a quarter-inch in. This represents the depth of the dado where this piece of wood will sit inside the two shorter boards—we’ll worry about cutting that slot in Step 6. The distance between those two lines should be exactly 12 inches.  

Using your square and a tape measure or ruler, draw lines 1 inch, 3 inches, and 5 inches from those dado lines, moving toward the center of the board. Then make two marks on each of these new lines, 1 inch in from the long edges of the board. Those 12 intersections are where the centers of the egg holes belong.

A man holding a piece of wood over a workbench, showing it to the camera. The board has a pattern for an egg holder on it, a two-by-six gird.
Your pattern should look like this. Courtesy of Jean Levasseur

3. Drill pilot holes in the board. Anytime you use a Forstner bit to drill all the way through a board, start with some pilot holes. Forstner bits are known to blow out or chip wood as they exit, so the best practice is to drill halfway through from the top, then turn the board over and drill the rest from the bottom to prevent tear-out. The easiest way to line those two cuts up is with a pilot hole.

If you have a drill press, drill the 12 small holes with that, using a ⅛-inch bit, or whatever size in that range you have. If you use a hand drill, make sure it’s straight up and down. You can use a speed square as a visual reference, or you can make a quick drill guide to keep the hole perpendicular to the face. If the drill bit wanders or leans, the two Forstner holes may not line up properly, and you’ll have to do a lot of sanding to fix it. No one wants to do any more sanding than they need to.

4. Drill the full holes. Change the ⅛-inch bit out for the 1 ¼-inch Forstner bit. Again, a drill press is best for this cut, but a handheld drill can do the job if you’re careful and use a jig for alignment. Center the bit in a pilot hole, and start to drill. Stop when you get just past halfway. Drill all the holes halfway through on one face of the board, then flip it over and drill from the other side.

5. (Optional) Chamfer the edges of the holes. To help the eggs sit better and reduce the chances that they’ll crack on sharp edges, chamfer the top edges of each hole. The easiest way to do this is with a router and a chamfering bit. I used a router table to make this cut, but if you don’t have access to one, you can use a palm router. Make sure to clamp your board securely to the work bench if you do. 

  • Note: If you don’t chamfer the hole edges, at least thoroughly round them over with sandpaper.

6. Cut dado slots into the legs. There are many ways to cut dado slots. My preferred method, and the one accessible to most people, is on the table saw with a crosscut sled. If you have a flat-cut table saw blade, like one that comes with a dado stack, use that, but it’s fine if you just have a normal blade. You can use a full dado stack to make this cut faster, but I wasn’t comfortable using mine on such a small board so I made multiple passes with a single blade.

[Related: How to refinish a scratched wooden cutting board]

Mark a line ¾ of an inch from the bottom of the leg, then make another line above it so the distance between the two is the thickness of the tray board. Set the height of your blade to a quarter-inch, and start removing the material between those lines by making one cut on your crosscut sled. Keep moving the leg over about ⅛-inch to make additional cuts. Repeat this as many times as you need to in order for the tray to fit in the slot. 

If you use a standard blade for this, you’ll probably wind up with little wedges on the bottom of the slot. Trim those flat with a chisel.

A man cutting a dado in a wooden egg holder leg piece using a crosscut sled on a table saw.
Just a tiny bit of the saw blade and methodical work will result in a nice dado. Courtesy of Jean Levasseur

7. (Optional) Cut curves on the corners of the legs. This is purely for aesthetics, but I love the way it looks. Draw a small arc at each corner of every leg board. You can use any cylindrical object to trace these—I used a spray paint bottle cap. Then remove the wood outside of that arc. I cut mine first with a band saw, then rounded it over with a sander, but a jig saw or coping saw will work as well. You can even just jump right to the sander, though that will take a bit longer.

8. (Optional) Add dowels for stacking. If you’re planning to make more than one tray, you may want to consider stacking them. Of course, you can place one on top of the other, but there’s always the risk that it will slide off and splatter your eggs. To give it some support, drill a ¼-inch hole in the top and bottom centers of the legs. Insert a dowel in the top of the bottom tray legs, and then you can slide the top tray onto that dowel, locking it into place. Round over the ends of the dowels with 120-grit sandpaper to make them easier to slide in and out. 

9. Sand everything to 220-grit. You’ve heard me say it before—sanding is the difference between a good product and a great product. Sand all of the pieces with an orbital sander, working through the grits—start with 120 and finish with 220. The hard part of this build is sanding the holes and chamfers, if you made them. You can use your fingers to get inside everything, or you can use a piece of sandpaper wrapped around a dowel. Of course, if you have a spindle sander, use that and save your fingers.

  • Pro tip: If you use a dowel, you can open the chuck of your power drill all the way, stick the dowel in, and tighten it up. Then you can wrap the dowel in sandpaper and use the drill to spin it quickly inside the holes.

Before you finish sanding, slightly round over all sharp edges with 220-grit sandpaper to keep them from splintering or breaking later. 

10. Apply the finish of your choice. I used spray-on shellac for this project, because it’s easy, cures well, and there should be no reason it will come in contact with alcohol, which ruins a shellac finish. And most importantly, I had a can left over from another project that I needed to use up. The type of finish doesn’t matter much on a low-contact build like this, so use what you like and have available, making sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions.  

And with that, you’re done. Load it up with a dozen fresh, unwashed eggs, and be amazed by what a talented woodworker you are every time you go to make an omelet.

The post Go ahead, leave your fresh eggs on the counter in this handmade wooden tray appeared first on Popular Science.

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The coolest way to keep food cold without electricity https://www.popsci.com/build-your-own-diy-refrigerator/ Tue, 21 May 2019 11:57:49 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/uncategorized/build-your-own-diy-refrigerator/
A Black person reaching their hands into a zeer pot—a type of DIY refrigerator—full of green beans, tomatoes, and other produce.
This might be the simplest DIY refrigerator you've ever seen. Practical Action

It's just two pots and some wet sand, but this might be the least complicated DIY refrigerator you can make.

The post The coolest way to keep food cold without electricity appeared first on Popular Science.

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A Black person reaching their hands into a zeer pot—a type of DIY refrigerator—full of green beans, tomatoes, and other produce.
This might be the simplest DIY refrigerator you've ever seen. Practical Action

Believe it or not, you don’t need a refrigerator to keep food cold. Just gather some ceramic pots, sand, and water, and you’ve got a portable, non-electric DIY mini-fridge with a time-tested design. After all, people were preserving food for thousands of years before you had to keep that leftover takeout from stinking up your college dorm.

In some parts of the world, this clay pot cooler is called a zeer, and its sustainable, inexpensive design is far from new. People in the Middle East and Africa have long used similar contraptions to keep food from spoiling in hot, dry climates.

“It’s just amazing,” says Paul Smith Lomas, CEO of Practical Action, a UK charity that helps people in Latin America, East and Southern Africa, and South Asia find solutions to daily challenges, including food preservation. “We like to find ingenious ideas that can help people fix their own problems.”

How to make a refrigerator without electricity

1. Get two unglazed ceramic pots—one that will fit inside the other—plus some sand and water.

2. Fill the bottom of the larger pot with a couple inches of sand.

3. Put the smaller pot inside the larger one.

4. Fill the space between the pots with sand.

5. Pour water into the sand.

6. Cover the pots with a ceramic lid or wet cloth.

Done. You’re ready to store food inside your homemade cooler. Just remember to add water to the sand every day, because zeer pots use evaporation to cool food.

How this DIY refrigerator works

As water evaporates through the clay, it releases energy into the air and cools the space inside the pot. It’s like splashing water on your face on a hot day; the water evaporates off your skin, cooling it in the process. Refrigerator coolant actually works in a similar way, using evaporation to draw heat out of the fridge itself. That’s why the back of your Frigidaire is so warm.

These pot-in-pot coolers are useful in places that don’t have power grids, but they’re also great for people who don’t have fridges, need more space, or want to cut their energy bills. On that last point: they’re also much better for the environment since they don’t require any sort of fuel, much less oil or gas.

[Related: The scientifically best way to pack a cooler]

It’s best to keep zeer pots in the shade, since the sun will warm them up, but you can also put them in a breezy area—wind makes the water evaporate faster, which cools the food more quickly. They’re most effective in arid climates, because water evaporates more when there’s less of it in the air. So, these pots will likely work better in Arizona than Florida.

They work well in Sudan, where Practical Action has introduced the zeer pot to many in need of refrigeration. Food security is a huge problem in the Northeast African country, and the DIY refrigerators can make food last 10 times longer, Lomas says.

“Someone told me they once made ice out of a zeer pot,” he says, laughing. He didn’t believe the guy, but he does find the pots incredibly effective. According to Practical Action’s website, one woman, Hawa Abbas, used to watch half her okra, tomato, and carrot crops spoil. After discovering zeer pots, that changed.

“They keep our vegetables fresh for three to four weeks, depending on the type of crop. They are very good in a hot climate such as ours where fruit and vegetables get spoiled in one day,” she told Practical Action. “Since I learned how to make zeer pots, our life has been so much better.”

This story has been updated. It was originally published on May 21, 2019.

The post The coolest way to keep food cold without electricity appeared first on Popular Science.

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Build your own router sled to flatten wood without buying big, expensive tools https://www.popsci.com/diy/diy-router-sled/ Tue, 21 Mar 2023 12:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=521288
A man in a blue t-shirt and jeans working with a DIY router sled in a woodshop.
The author uses his DIY router sled to flatten a board in his workshop. Amie Levasseur

Put together a DIY router sled for less than $100.

The post Build your own router sled to flatten wood without buying big, expensive tools appeared first on Popular Science.

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A man in a blue t-shirt and jeans working with a DIY router sled in a woodshop.
The author uses his DIY router sled to flatten a board in his workshop. Amie Levasseur

One of the most important skills in woodworking is learning to properly mill the wood. If you don’t have milling tools or are working with boards that are extra wide, you don’t have to give up, and you definitely don’t have to cut a beautiful slab down to a more manageable size. Instead, build a router sled that will let you flatten pretty much anything.

Figuring out how to make a router sled is a straightforward project. Set up two parallel rails a few feet apart, place a board between them, and put a sled on top of the rails for your router to sit in. To use the sled, push the router, equipped with a flattening bit, back and forth, trimming off a thin slice of the board below. Repeat until you’ve surfaced the entire board.  

By no means is this the best way to flatten a board. It can take hours, depending on the slab and the size of your router and bit. And boy oh boy does it make a mess. But sometimes it’s the only option available. After all, not many of us have the space, budget, or power supply required to purchase industrial-sized milling equipment.

Various companies sell metal versions of these tools, and they may be a good investment if you do a lot of flattening. However, it’s pretty easy to build a DIY router sled, allowing you to customize it exactly to your needs and space.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a facemask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

  • Time: 1 to 2 hours
  • Material cost: $50 to $100
  • Difficulty: easy

Materials

Tools

How to build a DIY router sled

1. Decide how big you need your router sled to be. This requires some prognostication on your part about what size projects you’re going to build in the future. For end tables, you can probably get away with a sled that’s 2 feet square. For coffee tables, you’ll need something more in the 3-by-4-foot range. And if you’re looking to try your hand at dining tables, you’ll probably need to go 8-by-4 (a full sheet of plywood) for the base.

The most challenging dimension to determine is the height of the rails, which establishes what thickness of board you can flatten. Your rails need to be taller than the board you’re milling, but you can’t make them too tall or your router bit won’t reach low enough to actually touch the top of the slab.

The largest board I’ve flattened has been 4 feet by about 16 inches. I made my rails 5 feet long and 2 inches tall, with a sled that is 36 inches long. I decided on this depth because I’ve never worked with anything deeper than that, and my router can plunge a little over an inch. If I ever need to work with a thicker or thinner slab, I add plywood shims under the rails or board being flattened to raise or lower their relative positions, then secure them with either hot glue. (More details on leveling and shimming in the “Setting up and using the router sled” section below.)

  • Pro tip: For more flexibility, I don’t permanently attach my rails to a base, either. I clamp them to my workbench so I can adjust to the width of the board.

2. Mill the lumber so it’s flat and square. Working with flat, square boards is much easier and more accurate than having to deal with warps, waves, and curves. For this project in particular, having straight edges and faces is crucial. Any waves or bows in the rails will transfer onto the surface of the slab that you’re flattening, which defeats the entire purpose of this setup.

[Related: The surprising woodworking tools you already have around the house]

We have a more comprehensive guide to milling lumber if you’re curious, but it’s a simple process. First, flatten one face of the board, on a jointer if you have one. Then trim one edge, making sure it’s perpendicular to the flat face. Next, flatten the remaining face, with a planer if you have one, and trim it to its final width on a table saw. Finally, trim the boards to their final length.

If you’re making your rails out of ¾-inch plywood, which many people do, you don’t need to mill it—simply trim it to the proper width and length.

At the end of the milling process, you should have four boards, just under ¾ of an inch thick:

  • 2 that are 4 feet long and 1 ¼ inches wide
  • 2 that are 4 feet long and 2 ½ inches wide

3. Glue and screw the boards into an “L” shape. To achieve this shape, stand the long edge of one 1¼-inch-wide board on the face of one 2½-inch-wide board. Align the two boards so the edge of the bottom piece is flush with the face of the top one, and glue them in place, securing them with clamps. You can also use a countersink bit and 1½-inch wood screws to hold the boards together while they dry. Repeat this step with the other two boards.

4. (Optional) Cut eight small 1-by-1-inch squares of scrap wood on your table saw or miter saw. These will add stability to your rails and keep them from warping over time. The best way to do this is with a crosscut sled on your table saw, which is my preferred method. You can also use a miter saw or hand saw if you’re more comfortable with those. Then glue and screw four of these along the length of each rail to hold the 90-degree orientation of the “L.” With that, the rails are done.

A small wooden square used to brace the rail of a homemade router sled.
If you choose to complete Step 4, you’ll end up with something like this. Jean Leavasseur

5. Cut two spacer blocks that are slightly wider than the base of your router. These spacers can be made from whatever wood you have lying around, and don’t need to be perfectly flat or square. They should all be the same width, though, about ⅛-inch wider than the base of your router. Cut these out on your table saw, miter saw, or with a hand saw—whichever tool is handiest for you.  

  • Note: If you have more than one router, use your most powerful one in the sled. I’ve tried flattening with my 1.25-horsepower DeWalt palm router, and while it can technically do the job, it struggles. My fixed-base Craftsman is more powerful and much more suited to the task, even if it’s not quite as easy to use and adjust.

6. Clamp the spacer blocks between the pieces of angle iron. This will be the actual sled your router sits on. Put one spacer block at each end of the metal bars, resting on the inside lip. Then clamp them in place. I clamp rather than using screws or glue for a couple reasons. First, I have more than one router, which means I might decide to use a different one. To swap, all I need to do is cut a new spacer and put it in place, rather than having to build a new sled. Second, clamps allow me to store the sled disassembled, which takes up a lot less space in my teeny, tiny basement shop.  

[Related: Build a semi-permanent work surface you can put away easily]

Once the iron sled is set up and the rails are dry, you’re ready to start flattening.  

Setting up and using the router sled

1. Position the rails. Set your rails on your workbench, spaced far enough apart so the board you’re flattening can fit between them with a couple of inches to spare on either side. Depending on your setup, you can either clamp these down or screw them in place.

The two rails of a DIY router sled set up around a large, curved board in a woodshop.
Here, the two rails are set up on either side of the large, warped board in the middle. Jean Leavasseur

2. Level and secure the board between them. The surface of the board should be just below the top of the rails, so the router bit can easily reach it. You also want to do your best to get that top surface approximately level with the plane formed by the top of the boards. This will reduce the amount of material that needs to be removed in order to flatten it. Shim the board to the proper alignment, then hot glue those shims—and the board—in place. If the board moves at all while you’re routing, you may not end up with a flat surface.

  • Pro tip: If the board is particularly warped or tapered, try to position the board so you’ll take the least amount of material off each side. This takes some guesswork and experimentation, and it’s not absolutely critical, but I always try to save as much wood as possible.  

3. Place the angle iron sled on top of the rails. The sled should lay perpendicular to the rails and across both. Position it to the left or right of the board, then slide it back and forth along the length of the rails to double check that it doesn’t bump into anything as you go. Getting hung up on a clamp or the corner of the board while you’re routing is really annoying. Adjust as needed. 

A DIY router sled in position above a warped board in a woodshop.
Before you start routing, the sled should look like this. Jean Leavasseur

4. Start routing. Secure your slab-flattening bit into your router, drop the router into the sled, and start routing. With the depth set to take off between a sixteenth and eighth of an inch, push the router across the board, holding it secure. Don’t allow the tool to tip forward or backward, or you’ll gouge the wood. Pull the router back to you along the sled, slide the whole apparatus over about two-thirds the width of your bit, and push the router forward again. Keep going until you reach the end of the board.

If you didn’t flatten the entire surface in one path, lower the bit between a sixteenth and eighth of an inch and repeat the process. Keep going until you’ve flattened the entire face of the board. 

Once you complete your last pass, flip the board over, secure it to your workbench, and do it all again on the other face.

And make sure to keep the shop vac handy. You’re going to make a massive mess, and you’ll need to clean up periodically to be able to see what you’re doing.

When the board’s smooth, all that’s left is endless sanding to get the router marks out of the wood.  

Sure, it’s not the fastest or easiest way to flatten a board. But sometimes, it’s the only option you have, and it gets the job done.

The post Build your own router sled to flatten wood without buying big, expensive tools appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

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A simple guide to hanging cabinet doors https://www.popsci.com/diy/how-to-hang-cabinet-doors/ Sat, 11 Mar 2023 16:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=519026
A man with short, brown hair, wearing a white t-shirt and hanging a white cabinet door in a white kitchen.
You really want to ensure your cabinet doors hang straight. photovs / Depositphotos

Although you can install cabinets yourself, you may want to enlist a helper.

The post A simple guide to hanging cabinet doors appeared first on Popular Science.

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A man with short, brown hair, wearing a white t-shirt and hanging a white cabinet door in a white kitchen.
You really want to ensure your cabinet doors hang straight. photovs / Depositphotos

A few years ago, I turned the refrigerator alcove in our new house into a pantry, but never got around to adding doors. I made a pair a few months later, repurposing free doors I got from a cabinetmaker who was going out of business, but they gathered dust in the basement while other projects took priority. Finally, I got a free weekend and some motivation, and decided to actually install them.    

Hanging cabinet doors is a project that’s harder in practice than it is in theory, particularly if you don’t do it a lot. The job could take 30 minutes or less, or you could end up fighting with it for three hours, like I did.

Before you start, take some time to size up the task. I, for example, had a couple of things working against me that likely increased the difficulty of this DIY. First, I built the doors myself, cobbled together from scrap lumber and other doors not made for the space. If I had to do it again, I’d build new doors to fit, rather than repurposing existing ones. Buying custom-made doors is another option, but we got a quote for close to $1,000, which was absolutely not happening.

My second challenge was that the refrigerator alcove itself isn’t square—it is off about a quarter of an inch from one side to the other. This means square doors either don’t fit or don’t look right in the non-square opening. I had to work hard to shape the doors to fit and give the illusion of being square. 

And finally, get someone to help you out. Professionals might be able to hang cabinet doors easily by themselves, but since neither you nor I are professional cabinetmakers, another pair of hands will be invaluable. 

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a facemask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

  • Time: 30 to 90 minutes per door
  • Material cost: $5 to $30 (not including the doors)
  • Difficulty: moderate

Materials

Tools

To hang the door

To trim the door

How to hang a cabinet or pantry door

1. Buy the proper hinges for your door. I was shocked and confused by how many different hinge styles there are. To find the one that’s right for you, pay attention to the overlay—how the door is positioned relative to the cabinet frame. Inset doors are flush with the front of the cabinet and rest fully inside the opening. Partial overlay doors sit in front of the cabinet face and cover up part of the face frame. Full overlay doors go in front of the cabinet face and cover the entire face frame. Each of these three types of doors requires its own style of hinge.

Once you’ve identified the type of door, check how the hinge attaches to the cabinet. Some screw flat to the sidewall, which is how ours work. Others wrap around the face frame of the cabinet. And finally, think about how visible you want the hinges to be and what features you need, including adjustability, opening angle, soft-closing, or self-closing.

2. Measure and mark how much to trim the doors. If you’re lucky, your door perfectly fits the opening you have, and you can skip steps 2 and 3 entirely. If not, you’ve got some work to do. 

First, bring the door to the opening and figure out exactly where to trim. Hold the door in place, using shims or another person to help, and use a pencil to mark the material to remove. You may need to slim down an entire edge, or knock off a few inches leading into a corner, particularly if either the door or the opening aren’t perfectly square.

How much and where to trim depends on what kind of overlay your door has. If you have a partial overlay and adjustable hinges, you’ll have quite a bit of wiggle room because you won’t be constrained to the size of the opening. An eighth- or even a quarter-inch oversized probably doesn’t matter, though you will have to keep in mind how the door lines up with other cabinets nearby. 

[Related: The surprising woodworking tools you already have around the house]

Full overlay doors have to be a bit more precise, because they’re supposed to completely cover the face frame, without hanging over. However, chances are that no one will notice if the doors overhang a 16th or even an eighth of an inch.  

Inset doors require the most precision, because they fit inside the cabinet opening. Generally speaking, they need about an eighth of an inch gap on all sides to open and close, as well as to fit the hinges. But make sure you read the manufacturer’s instructions for your hinges, as some require different spacings.

3. Trim the doors down to size. There are many ways to trim cabinet doors, depending on what tools you have, how much needs to be shaved off, and where. To remove an eighth-inch or more from an entire edge of the board, your best bet is a table saw. Set the fence to the final width and run the board through. Depending on the style of the door, you may want to trim along both parallel edges so the door’s proportions remain the same.

If you need to remove a decent amount of material from part of the edge, as I did, you can use a router with a straightedge and a flush trim bit. I took a strip of plywood with one flat edge, and clamped it along the shallow angle I needed. Then I used the flush trim bit to remove the material.

If you have a small amount of material to remove, turn to a block plane or hand plane. Make sure the blade is properly sharpened and set up so you don’t tear the wood. Keeping the edge you’re working facing up, clamp the door in a vice or get someone to hold it in place. Then run the plane along it, keeping the tool perpendicular to the face of the door. You should get long, curled shavings of wood.  

For those who don’t have a hand plane or who aren’t comfortable using one, use an orbital sander with 60-grit paper.

4. Install the hinges on the door. Different hinges connect to the door and the cabinet with different methods, so it’s important that you read the instructions included with your hardware. Some hinges screw directly to the surface of the door, while others require a mortise cut into the door to sit in. There are jigs available for different kinds of hardware to make this setup easier. If you’re only hanging one or two doors, though, a jig might not be worth the investment—some of them can be expensive. 

Regardless of how your hinges work, pre-drill any screw holes. The last thing you want is your door to split during the final installation.  

  • Note: Some hinges may say to attach them to the cabinet first, rather than the door. Absolutely follow the manufacturer’s instructions, not my recommendations here.  

5. Measure and mark where the hinges attach to the cabinet. If possible, hold the door in place to measure where the hinges attach to the cabinet. Shims can help with this, particularly on inset doors. Then mark the center of the hinge on the cabinet and take the door down. If you have extra hardware, center a spare on that line, and mark where the screw holes go. You can also make a drilling template out of a scrap of plywood by marking a “center” line as reference, and use a hinge to position and drill screw holes in relation to that line. Then bring that template to the cabinet, align the centerline to the mark on the cabinet, and drill the holes in the cabinet.  

If it’s not feasible to hold the door in place to mark the hinge positions, you can use a tape measure to find the locations of the holes. Just remember to factor in the size of the gaps or overhangs as you measure—if you don’t, then your hinges will be too high or too low.  

Once the positions are marked, pre-drill the holes for the screws. 

6. Screw the hinges to the cabinet. This is one step where a helper is worth their weight in gold. Hold the door in place, most likely in the open position, and screw the hinges to the cabinet. Start with the top hinge, because that one can carry the weight of the door without flexing and ripping out of the wood—this might happen if you start with the bottom hinges.

7. Make adjustments as needed. Many hinges have hardware that allow you to make minute adjustments to perfectly line up the doors for equal spacing and straight lines. Fiddle with those as needed to get your door to fit. If those adjustments aren’t enough, you may need to further trim the door. You can use a block plane or sander to peel off small amounts while it’s hanging, but you’ll need to take the door down to remove more material. 

[Related: How to build a DIY beer flight board]

While you’re at it, ensure that any drawer slides function properly with the doors in place. My pantry drawers on one side got stuck on the door—I’d installed the slides not knowing how thick the doors would eventually be. The fix is easy: Use a chisel to carve a slide-sized channel in the back of the door so that the drawers can open and close freely.  

8. Install the door handle or pull. Installing the door pull last lets you install it exactly where you want it, after all the final adjustments have been made. Whether you position it in the middle of the door, lined up with other pulls in the room, or simply at a comfortable height to grab, you can be more accurate once the door is finished and in place.

Knobs and bars are the two most common types of door pulls. Knobs require you to drill a single hole through the door to slide a bolt through that the knob screws onto. Pulls need two bolt holes. Like hinges, there are jigs that will help make measuring the hole locations easier if you’re planning to do a lot of doors, but all you really have to do is measure from the top and closest edge of the door, and mark your hole locations.  

And that’s it. Your door is hung and ready to use. If you’re planning to paint, stain, or otherwise finish the door, take it down and get to work. But if you’re anything like me, it’ll be a few months before you get around to that. For now, just enjoy not having to look at whatever is in that cabinet anymore.

Homemade pantry doors in a kitchen.
One day, these will be painted. Jean Leavasseur

The post A simple guide to hanging cabinet doors appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

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Liven up your yard by building this cedar planter box https://www.popsci.com/diy/planter-box-diy/ Sun, 05 Mar 2023 15:44:24 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=517268
A cedar DIY planter box on the concrete front steps of a gray house with a red door.
Maybe you'll want to make two, one for each side of the door. Jean Levasseur

You can make a planter out of almost any wood, but there's a reason cedar is preferred.

The post Liven up your yard by building this cedar planter box appeared first on Popular Science.

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A cedar DIY planter box on the concrete front steps of a gray house with a red door.
Maybe you'll want to make two, one for each side of the door. Jean Levasseur

Sometimes the planters at your local hardware store just aren’t enough. They’re missing… something. Gravitas. Prestige. The satisfying scent of cedar, perhaps. Fear not—building your own planter box from cedar fence posts is a straightforward afternoon project, and can add a renewed sense of style to your landscape decor. 

While you can build a planter box out of pretty much any wood (pine is popular because it’s affordable), cedar is great for a few reasons. First and foremost, it’s rot-resistant, so it will stand up to the weather, dirt, and bugs for years and years, even untreated. Second, cedar fence pickets in particular are relatively inexpensive and easy to work with. Finally, cedar actively repels many types of bugs, which is why this wood is used so often in closets. While the scent won’t keep all garden pests at bay, it can deter some, including houseflies, ticks, mosquitos, termites, and certain types of ants, according to the US Department of Agriculture Agricultural Research Service

This particular DIY planter box is a straightforward and flexible project. The box I made is 12 inches square and 16 inches tall, but you can easily make one with a 16-by-16-inch or 24-by-24-inch footprint by modifying the dimensions below.  Larger than that, and you’ll probably need to upgrade to a long planter box design

Stats 

  • Time: 2 to 3 hours
  • Materials cost: $30 to $50
  • Difficulty: moderate

Materials

Tools

How to build a cedar planter box

1. Cut the fence pickets to rough length. Before properly squaring up the wood, always cut it down to rough length first. You can use a miter saw to trim the fence posts into sections, but I did it on my table saw with a crosscut sled instead because I already had it set up. Cutting the wood into shorter lengths before milling reduces the amount of material you’ll need to remove to get flat surfaces.

2. Joint the edges and trim the pickets to final length. For this project, I decided not to flatten the faces of the fence posts. They were pretty flat to start with, and I didn’t want to lose the rough, rustic look of the boards to the planer. I jointed the edges using a level on my table saw, and then trimmed the boards to final length with my crosscut sled. 

The final cut list for this project is: 

  • 4 wide side panel legs (2.5 by 16 inches)
  • 4 narrow side panel legs (2 by 16 inches)
  • 8 wide side side panel boards (3 by 11 inches)
  • 8 narrow side panel boards (3 by 10 inches)
  • 4 top miter frames (1.5 by 15 inches)
  • 3 base boards (3.5 by 11 inches) (you’ll trim these to fit exactly once you assemble the box)

3. Rough-sand all the boards. As I mentioned, I didn’t want to lose the rustic look of the fence posts. However, they were still quite rough and I was afraid that if I left them untouched, people would get splinters when planting. So I spent some quality time with my orbital sander and 120-grit paper smoothing out both faces of all of the boards. How long you sand is entirely dependent on your aesthetic preference, but I only did about a minute per face to remove any loose or jagged material. I did smooth the top miter boards and the legs a bit more than the other boards, though—they will be the ones people touch the most. 

4. Separate the boards for the four side panels. The 11-inch panel boards go with the 2.5-inch wide legs and the 10-inch boards go with the 2-inch legs. Don’t forget this, or you’ll wind up with a box with a rectangular footprint instead of a square.

[Related: Benefit your neighborhood bats with this DIY bat box]

5. Build the side panels. Using a scrap of ½-inch plywood and a speed square, you can create a basic jig to align the boards. First, lay one leg on your assembly table, with the long edge flush against the flat edge of the plywood. Align the speed square along the same plywood edge, touching the top of the leg and extending into the plywood. Then smear wood glue on the leg, leaving about a ¾-inch on the edge farthest from the plywood.  

A piece of plywood used as a jig to align pieces of cedar for the side panel of a DIY planter box.
The big sheet of plywood on the left serves as an alignment jig, helping you make sure the side panel leg (right) is lined up with the top board of the panel (top). The upright piece here is the spacer for the joint where the other side panel will connect with this one. Jean Levasseur

Lay the top panel board onto the plywood, extending onto the glued section of the leg. You’ll need to leave enough space for the leg of the other panel as the panel legs nest together when assembled, so use one of the extra boards as a spacer—place it tipped on its side along the outside edge of the leg board inside the area you left clean of glue. Align one panel board to the speed square, flush with the top of the leg, and push it over so it just touches the spacer board. Once it’s positioned and square, brad nail it into place to hold the orientation. Then add the lower three boards using that top panel board and spacer for alignment, and nail those into place. Finally, flip the nearly finished side panel around and glue and brad nail the second leg to the other end of the panel boards using the speed square and spacer for alignment.  

Repeat this step for the three remaining panels. 

6. Add ledges to the inside of two side panels. Before assembling the planter box, add small ledges to either both wide panels or both narrow panels. It doesn’t matter which panels get these ledges, as long as they’re equal in size. The ledges will hold the boards for the bottom of the box, so they need to be opposite each other. It’s much easier to do this before assembly, so don’t skip this step.

I used the scraps I trimmed off when cutting the legs down to width. To attach, I cut the scraps down to 9 ½ inches long, then glued and brad nailed them into position. 

  • Note: I added two rows of ledges so I can adjust the depth of my planter box if needed. The first is 6 inches below the top of the panel, and the second is 9 inches below.

7. Assemble the box. This is an easy assembly, but pay attention. The most important thing to remember is that the narrow panels sit inside the wide panels. This is what makes the planter box a square—if the wide panels sit inside the narrow, you’ll wind up with a rectangle.  

To assemble, spread glue on the inside edge of the legs where you positioned the spacer board in Step 5. Then interlock all of the panels together, standing them up on a flat surface like your assembly table or table saw. This will help keep the bottoms of the legs flush with one another so the planter box doesn’t wobble.  

Once the boards are interlocked, add corner clamps to the top to hold everything square and in place. Then wrap the strap clamps around the outside of the box and tighten them. I used two straps, one about an inch from the top, and the other about an inch from the bottom of the panel boards.   

Make sure all of your planter box’s corners are square. Measure from one corner to the opposite one, and then between the other two—both diagonals should be the same length.

  • Note: If you don’t have strap clamps and/or corner clamps, use regular clamps.
A cedar DIY planter box assembled, glued, clamped, and sitting on a table in the middle of a woodworker's shop.
The full glued and clamped assembly. Jean Levasseur

8. Trim the boards for the base. The exact measurements will vary somewhat depending on how thick the boards were to start and how much material you sanded off. My boards were just under 10 inches long. Two I left 3.5 inches wide, and I trimmed the third down to about 2.5 inches. The boards should fit snug, but not so tight that they can’t slide in and out.

9. Cut the miters for the top frame. This step is essentially like making a picture frame to fit over the top of the box and hide all those ugly seams. The trick is to make it slightly smaller than the inside dimensions of the box. I left about a ⅛-inch interior overhang on all four sides so I didn’t need to achieve a perfectly flush alignment, which is hard to do with non-milled wood—heck, it’s hard to do with perfectly milled wood.  

[Related: Every woodworker should know how to mill their own boards]

Cut the angles with a miter saw set to 45 degrees, or with a miter sled on the table saw. I used the latter option, again because I was already working with my table saw. First, I cut a 45-degree miter on one end of each board. Then I used a stop block to set the final length and cut the opposite miter for all four boards. This is a better way to ensure that all four are the same length than trying to measure and mark them individually. 

Once all four boards are cut, glue them up with a strap clamp if you have one, or regular clamps if not, again ensuring that the frame is square.

10. Glue the top frame to the box. Spread glue along the top edges of the box and align the top frame. Try to keep it square to the sides, and the interior overhang consistent. Clamp the frame into place to let the glue dry.

11. Sand away any glue mess. Chances are that you’ve got some glue squeeze-out to clean up. Use 120-grit paper in your orbital sander and/or hands to finish sanding any areas of the box that need it, particularly around the joints. Don’t worry about the inside of the box—that will be covered in dirt or pots.

12. Insert the base boards. Slide the base boards into place. I didn’t glue or nail these in since there’s no way for them to fall out. This allows me to move them in the future if I need to change the depth of the box for any reason. 

An empty cedar DIY planter box on a blue carpet in front of a white door inside a house.
The empty planter, showing the mitered top frame and the base boards on the bottom. Jean Levasseur

13. (Optional) Line the interior with landscape fabric. Cedar is a rot-resistant wood, but rot-resistant doesn’t mean rot-proof. If you’re planning to fill the box with dirt directly, consider adding some landscape fabric to the inside of the box to add a barrier between the dirt and the wood. Cut the landscape fabric to size with shears, then staple it in place with a staple gun. 

And you’re ready to plant! We are planning to sit existing pots inside the planter box because it’s easier and faster, but you can absolutely plant directly into the box itself—we may wind up doing that in the future.  

Now all you have to do is figure out what plants are going to improve your curb appeal the most. Fortunately, the folks at the PennState Extension put together a guide on some best practices for container gardening. Please go forth and garden.

The post Liven up your yard by building this cedar planter box appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

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Benefit your neighborhood bats with this DIY bat house https://www.popsci.com/diy/bat-house-diy/ Thu, 16 Feb 2023 13:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=510893
A dark wooden bat house high up on the side of a gray two-story house.
May the creatures of the night find this homemade bat house a better home than the attic vent. Jean Levasseur

Always bet on bats (for pest control).

The post Benefit your neighborhood bats with this DIY bat house appeared first on Popular Science.

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A dark wooden bat house high up on the side of a gray two-story house.
May the creatures of the night find this homemade bat house a better home than the attic vent. Jean Levasseur

Bats are a critical part of ecosystems worldwide and provide a number of significant benefits to humans, including pest control, pollination, and seed disbursement. Of those three, the biggest reason you might want bats around is likely their ability to hunt insects that are hunting you.

But where bats live alongside people, they are threatened by a host of problems, including habitat destruction, pesticides that kill their food, and of course, climate change. So as much as you may want to turn your yard into a place bats want to be, you might have a hard time if they don’t have a place to hang out. Building a bat house helps address this problem and may replace a small portion of any habitat they’ve lost.

Different species of bats (there are nearly 1,400 worldwide and almost 50 in North America) use bat boxes for different reasons, such as breeding, roosting, or hibernating. But if you put one up, there’s a chance it’s just the thing a colony in your area needs to survive another season.

I based these bat house plans on a design published by Bat Conservation International, with a few modifications—what woodworker follows plans exactly? My bat box, for example, is two chambers instead of four, simply because of the amount of wood I had available. I also used cedar fence pickets instead of exterior plywood because they were cheaper, and decided not to put a vent on the side due to the cold climate in Massachusetts.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a facemask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

  • Time: 4 to 6 hours
  • Material cost: $40 to $60
  • Difficulty: moderate

Materials

Tools

How to build a bat house

1. Cut the fence pickets to length on your miter saw. Before jointing wood, always cut the boards down to rough length. This makes flattening easier, and cuts down on the amount of material you’ll need to remove from warped boards.

This bat box consists of three panels, each made from different lengths of wood. Although you can cut the middle and front panel boards exactly the same length because they will be the same size (24 by 18 inches), I did not. I was able to use my wood more efficiently by making the front and back panels from vertical 24-inch boards, and the middle one out of horizontal 18-inch planks. This worked because I could get one 18- and one 24-inch board out of each 42-inch fence picket. Here’s how my panel groupings broke down:

  • Back panel: six (30-inch) boards
  • Middle panel: eight (18-inch) boards
  • Front panel: six (24-inch) boards

2. Joint one face and edge on each board. If you don’t have a jointer, you can skip face jointing for this project, and just edge joint on your table saw. But if you have access to a jointer, cleaning up one face will make assembly easier.  

  • Note: The jointed faces of the boards should be the outside of your panels. I left the insides of my panels rough so the bats would have an easier time clinging to them, though we will add more texture later.

3. Trim all the boards to width on your table saw. I picked 3 inches to make all of the math easy, even though I wound up with a bit more waste than was strictly necessary. 

4. Glue the front and back panels together. Building panels is one of the core skills required for many woodworking projects, and a good set of parallel clamps will help immensely. Fully open your clamps and set them down side by side, about 2 inches closer together than the full width of your panels. Lay the boards across them, jointed faces down, and press the boards together by hand to make sure all the seams are tight. If they aren’t, clean them up on your jointer or table saw.

Once you’re satisfied with the layout, spread a line of glue on each touching edge of the boards, and press them together. Tighten the clamps until glue squeezes out of the seams. Then add two more clamps between and parallel to the first pair of clamps, but on top of the panel instead of below. This will give the panel a bit more stability and reduce the chance of warping.

5. Cut the rails for the panels. This bat house has two chambers, which basically means it’s two boxes stacked together. To create those boxes, you’ll need two pairs of rails for the panels to sit on to form cavities for the bats to roost in. I crafted my rails from the scraps left over from building the panels. I had several 12-inch-long boards, so I cut eight ⅞-inch strips out of those to make the four rails.

6. Cut grooves into both sides of the 18-inch boards for the middle panel. The bats most likely to roost in a box are used to spending time in trees, says David Mizejewski, a naturalist at the nonprofit National Wildlife Federation. This means the box should be textured like a tree to give the animals something to hold on to. Shallow grooves spaced between ¼- and ½-inch apart work nicely, according to Bat Conservation International.

[Related: What bats and metal vocalists have in common]

Set the height of your table saw to between 1/16 and ⅛ inch high. Then set the fence about a quarter-inch from the blade, and run all of your middle panel boards over it, on both faces. Then move the fence another quarter inch away from the blade and run the boards again. Continue until you’ve cut grooves along both faces of all eight boards.

  • Note: Older bat house plans might recommend installing wire mesh, but many conservationists now recommend against that because there’s a chance the bats will get tangled in it.

7. Square the front and back panels, then cut grooves. Once these two panels are dry according to the glue manufacturer’s instructions, trim both ends of one panel, squaring them to its edges. The easiest tool for this is a crosscut sled on your table saw. Once the ends are square, leave the panel on the sled to cut graspable grooves. Set the blade height between 1/16 and ⅛ inch, and cut grooves every quarter-inch or so. These don’t have to be precise. Just slide the panel over a bit at a time. Repeat this step with the other panel.

  • Warning: This is the sort of operation where it’s easy to lose focus and hurt yourself by grabbing or moving at the wrong place or wrong time. Make sure you pull the sled all the way back so you can freely move the panel without touching the blade.
An interior panel for a DIY bat house, with groves cut into it for the bats to hold onto.
When you’re done grooving, your interior-facing panel sides should look like this. Jean Levasseur

8. Assemble the first chamber. Lay the back panel down flat with the textured and grooved side facing up. Place the rails onto the face, aligned with each edge and with about 2 inches between the top of the panel and the start of each rail. This gap leaves room to hang the box. Glue the rails in place and further secure them with 1-inch brad nails.

Then glue and brad nail the 18-inch boards across the rails to form the middle panel. Clamp everything together until the glue dries.

9. Assemble the second chamber. Once the first chamber is secure and dry, build the second, gluing rails to the middle panel and securing the front panel to those with glue, clamps, and brad nails.

The interior of a partially assembled DIY bat house, showing the grooved back panel, the rails that leave an opening for the bats, and the middle panel on top of the rails.
Your bat box should look like this as you begin Step 9. Think of it as a wooden sandwich that bats will eventually stuff themselves cozily inside. Jean Levasseur

10. Add a roof. Glue and brad nail one final board, 18 inches long and 3 inches wide, across the top of both cavities as a roof. Rather than cutting a dedicated piece to size, however, I used some of the cutoff scraps I had, making sure to butt them as tight together as I could. 

11. Sand everything smoothish. This is one of those magical projects where sanding doesn’t matter too much. I used 60-grit sandpaper on my orbital sander to clean up any boards that were slightly out of alignment or particularly rough. Then I sanded everything with 120-grit paper. Because the bat box will be painted, hung quite high, and won’t be touched a lot (by people anyway), there was no point in going further than that.  

12. Fill in all the gaps with caulk. “Make sure that all of the seams are tight and there aren’t a lot of gaps because heat is the key thing,” says Mizejewski. “The bats really want it to stay warm in there. If the bat house is drafty, that’s going to make it less attractive.” Fill in all of those gaps between the panels and the rails with exterior-rated painter’s caulk. If you’re planning to stain your box, which you can do if you live in a warmer climate than I do in New England, you might want to use stainable wood filler instead of caulk.  

13. Paint or finish the exterior of your box. Keeping with the theme of creating a warm house, it’s important to maximize the amount of heat absorption the box gets from the sun. That means dark colors. Bat Conservation International recommends painting bat boxes black in cold climates, but if you live in a more temperate climate, a dark brown paint or stain can be enough. If you live in a particularly warm area, you may be fine leaving the natural color of your wood.  

14. Hang the box. “This is probably one of the more important things if you actually want the bat house to work,” says Mizejewski. “Mounting is what people often get wrong, and then the box does not work.” In order to move in, bats need to feel that the box is warm enough, close to water, and safe from predators.

[Related: How to get a bat out of your house]

Oddly enough, hanging bat houses on trees doesn’t work well, even though bats often roost directly in trees. It can be too shady and cool among the branches, and it’s easier for predators to climb up and into the box. Instead, it’s best to install bat boxes on the side of a building or on a pole, between 10 and 20 feet in the air. Bat Conservation International has put together a few documents for the best installation methods, whether on a pole or on the side of your house or another building.

  • Warning: Hauling an unwieldy wooden box up a ladder isn’t an easy or risk-free task. If you decide to hang it on a pole, Bat Conservation International suggests it’s best to fasten it to the pole first and then stick the pole in the ground. Otherwise, you’d better be comfortable climbing and follow all ladder safety precautions.

Once the bat box is up, it’s time to sit and wait. And wait. And wait. Bats don’t move on our schedules, unfortunately. If you don’t see any sign of bat activity after a couple of years, it might be time to take it down and try a new location.  

But when you do hit the sweet spot and a colony moves in to raise their babies, you can rest satisfied that your hard work helped give these creatures a place to call home, at least for a little while.

The post Benefit your neighborhood bats with this DIY bat house appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

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Serve any brew in style with this DIY beer flight board https://www.popsci.com/diy/beer-flight-board-diy/ Thu, 09 Feb 2023 16:41:31 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=510885
Two light-colored live edge DIY beer flight boards with four glasses each, on a darker wood surface in front of a beige wall.
These will look even better full. Jean Levasseur

These homemade beer trays are fast, simple, and customizable.

The post Serve any brew in style with this DIY beer flight board appeared first on Popular Science.

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Two light-colored live edge DIY beer flight boards with four glasses each, on a darker wood surface in front of a beige wall.
These will look even better full. Jean Levasseur

What’s better than one glass of beer? Four glasses. Beer flights are a fun way to try out a variety of flavors in manageable quantities, and if you’re a home brewer they can help you present your latest concoctions in style. They’re also an opportunity to showcase what an amazing woodworker you are—and even if you’re not, this project is simple enough that people will think you are.

At its most basic, a beer flight board is a plank of wood with some shallow holes to hold the glasses, but there are a few ways to upgrade this easy DIY project. You can use your router or table saw to create fancy edge decoration, build it from multiple kinds of wood glued together in a pretty pattern, or play with burning or inlaying a design. For mine, I used live edge boards to make the trays, which will be large enough to hold four 5-ounce glasses.

Live edge boards are sawn the full width of the tree, so the natural, wavy edges remain. They usually come with the bark attached. Keeping that edge can bring a natural feel to any project—some of my favorite tables have live edges. And although it looks elaborate, there’s nothing complicated about working with live edges.

Of course, if you don’t have a live edge board, or want a different design, you can use any kind of wood you have available, as long as it will fit the number of glasses you’re looking for.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a facemask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

  • Time: 1 to 2 hours
  • Material cost: $20 to $50
  • Difficulty: easy

Materials

Tools

How to build a custom beer flight board

1. (Optional) Clean up the edges. If you’re working with live edge wood, you’ll have to remove the bark and smooth the edges. This is generally the first step any time you work with this type of wood. The easiest way is with a chisel: slide the tip of the tool between the bark and the wood and pry. The bark should fall right off—just be careful not to gouge the wood. You can also use a screwdriver or pry bar if the bark is particularly stubborn. 

Once the bark is gone, strip off all remaining fibers to get down to bare wood. If you leave behind the strands that held the bark onto the tree, they can ruin your eventual finish. An orbital sander is the fastest way to smooth these edges, though it can remove some of the natural contour and charm of the edge if you’re not careful. A wire brush and hand sanding with 80-grit paper is a less aggressive option, though it takes longer.

2. Mill your board to size. Beer flights are meant to sit flat on a table, counter, or bar, so it’s important that you actually mill the board. The best way to mill wood is to flatten one face and edge on a jointer, then flatten the opposite face in a planer. Finally, trim the board to width on a table saw and to length with a miter saw. 

For boards with two live edges, like mine, you don’t need to bother with the edges—leave them natural.

If you don’t have a jointer and planer, you can flatten with your sander or a hand plane, or buy wood that is pre-flattened.

To comfortably fit four glasses, I milled my boards to 14 inches long, about 4 inches wide, and ¾-inch thick.

3. Measure the hole spacings. Where to put the holes depends on the size of the glasses you’re using and the look you’re going for. My cups had 2-inch diameter bases, but bulged out to about 2.5 inches at the top. I had to make sure to leave room for the bulge, along with space between them.

On my 14-inch-long beer flight board, I centered the glasses 1 ¾ inches from each end and 3.5 inches from one another. This left plenty of space between them.

4. Cut the holes for the glasses. These holes should be slightly larger than the base of the glass, and about a quarter of an inch deep. The easiest way to cut them is with a Forstner bit and a drill—a drill press is even better if you have one. However, the problem with a Forstner bit is that it leaves behind an ugly (in my opinion) dimple in the very center of the hole. If you don’t mind that dimple, by all means build it that way. Many people do.

[Related: How to brew beer at home in a week]

But if you’d rather have a flat-bottomed hole, use a plunge router and a patterning bit. If you’re brave and skilled enough, you can try to freehand the hole. I am not, so I used a plywood template. Drill holes the size you want all the way through a piece of half-inch plywood, spaced the same as you want them on the final tray. Then clamp or use double-sided tape to affix that board to your beer flight, with the hole positioned where you want it.

Set the depth stop of your plunge router to a quarter-inch below the flight wood, and route out the holes, running the bearing of the patterning bit along the edge of the plywood. This produces perfectly flat, uniform holes, and you can reuse the plywood on any other flights you make with the same spacings.

A plywood beer flight board hole template below a live edge beer flight board, before any cup holes have been cut.
Having a template will help ensure your cup holes look nice. Jean Levasseur

5. Sand until you have visions of the desert. Sanding separates good from great in woodworking. Use a random orbit sander to work through the grits: 120, 150, and 220. Then comes the really hard part: hand-sanding the holes. These don’t have to be perfect because people likely won’t touch them much, but you do want to sand away any unsightly drill or router marks.

6. Raise the grain and sand again. When wood gets wet, the fibers absorb water and swell. After sanding, this causes a rough finish to emerge the first time the wood comes in contact with water (or spilled beer). Beat the swelling to the punch by lightly wetting every surface of your beer flight boards and then hand-sanding the whole thing again with 220-grit paper. This will eliminate the raised grain that can ruin the feel of a good finish.

7. Apply the finish of your choice. Most finishes will work fine here, aside from shellac, which can be dissolved by alcohol. I chose spray-on polyurethane, for several reasons. One, it’s durable and reliable. Two, the spray makes it easy to completely coat both the holes and the live edge. And most importantly, I had half a can left on my shelf from another project that I needed to use.

Make sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions on your finish of choice, including any sanding requirements, to achieve the best finish possible.

8. Drink and enjoy. There are few better ways to celebrate finishing a new project than with a drink (or four.) Hopefully you added in a sub-step somewhere along the way to go to the store and pick up a variety pack of beer so you can show off your brand new beer flight as it was meant to be used.

The post Serve any brew in style with this DIY beer flight board appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

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Build your own desk with custom features like USB ports and biometrics https://www.popsci.com/build-custom-computer-desk/ Mon, 07 Jan 2019 21:28:36 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/uncategorized/build-custom-computer-desk/
A DIY computer desk made out of a wooden door and some metal legs, with a dual-monitor computer and other devices on top of it.
A surface made out of a door has plenty of room for my computer, monitors, speakers, and other work necessities. Whitson Gordon

A surprisingly easy step-by-step guide for an impressive DIY computer desk.

The post Build your own desk with custom features like USB ports and biometrics appeared first on Popular Science.

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A DIY computer desk made out of a wooden door and some metal legs, with a dual-monitor computer and other devices on top of it.
A surface made out of a door has plenty of room for my computer, monitors, speakers, and other work necessities. Whitson Gordon

After spending countless hours putting together a killer workstation, you have a tricked-out desktop computer, multiple monitors, bangin’ speakers, and… a computer desk that’s too tiny to fit it all. Here’s how to build your own ergonomic, customized computer table that displays all your tech, looks awesome—and doesn’t break the bank.

What you’ll need

There are an infinite number of ways to construct a desk. But for this particular project, I have four criteria I need my DIY computer desk to hit:

  1. Large: The vast majority of desks you’ll find in the store are 60 inches long or less. I needed a large computer desk at least 80 inches across to fit all my gear, and the few store-bought options I found just didn’t cut it. They were either ugly and cheaply made, or too expensive—a large, decent-quality one will run you at least $400.
  2. Cheap: Making something yourself instead of buying it almost always saves some money—in this case, it’s going to cut hundreds of dollars from the price. Our materials cost about $250 new, but depending on your deal-hunting skills and the parts you already have lying around, you’ll hopefully be able to get everything for $150 or less. That’s about half the price of most store-bought desks this size. Since there are so many different options for materials, make sure you pick the best wood for desktop. The type of wood you choose can depend on what color or design you’re going for as well as how much weight it will have to support.
  3. Easy: You can fabricate an entire desk out of a single sheet of plywood or medium-density fiberboard (MDF) for under $100, but doing so requires a lot of tools and know-how. We want our project to be accessible to anyone, including those without lots of woodworking experience—even if that boosts the price a little.
  4. Ergonomic: Too many people ignore the difference between a custom “computer desk” and a “writing desk.” Over time, those differences can wreak havoc on your body. In this project, I’m going to mix the sleek look of the latter with the ergonomics of the former to get the best of both worlds.

After lots of research, I decided to construct my desk out of a door slab and some adjustable desk legs from Ikea. It knocks all four goals out of the park, and as a bonus, you should be able to find the parts easily, no matter where you live. Here’s what I used.

The surface

For a big piece of furniture like this, you need a spacious desktop. And there are a few slabs you could try.

The Ikea Karlby countertop has become incredibly popular due to its large size and relative affordability—it costs between $100 and $200, depending on the size and color. Although you could use one with this guide, I wanted to go even cheaper. So I got a big door for my tabletop.

Doors have very reasonable price points, with new ones selling for $50 to $100. If you scour Craigslist, you can probably find some that cost even less, or pick up a free one if you’re really lucky. A door won’t be quite as polished around the edges as the Karlby, and it may require extra work to stain or paint, but I dig the more industrial look. Keep an eye out for something that’s solid core (not hollow) and has a width that matches your ideal desk depth—most doors range from 24 to 36 inches wide. If you have a circular saw, you can always cut a larger slab down to size, but for a patient shopper, that shouldn’t be necessary.

[Related: The best safety advice for any beginner woodworker]

I opted for a door that shows off the wood grain. Then I sanded, stained, and finished it myself. If you end up using a secondhand door, you may have to deal with a hole where the handle used to be, though you can always use it for cable management in the back. In my case, I hid the hole under my mouse and keyboard mat.

The legs

This is the other half of this desk’s special sauce. You’ll need four or five support legs, with the total number depending on whether you want to add a set of drawers to your workspace.

While most people would recommend standard desk legs or industrial pipe, I chose Ikea’s Olov legs. At $15 apiece, they’re a bit more expensive than Ikea’s regular table legs, but they’re adjustable, which means you can find the perfect height for you. This is crucial for good ergonomics, so it’s well worth the extra cost.

Again, hunt Craigslist to see if you can find cheaper legs. I bought a used table containing five Olovs from a neighbor. It cost $30 total—much less than the $75 Ikea would charge for five new legs.

The drawers

No workspace is complete without a place to stash your flash drives, sticky notes, and other miscellanea. I recommend that you fulfill this requirement with a filing cabinet or set of drawers that matches your ideal desk height (for a guide to calculating that height, see the next section) so you can use it as one of the legs. Because it depends on your own size, this component will be very personal.

I don’t want to sound like a broken record, but Craigslist is your friend here—though Wayfair will also do if you don’t have a bustling secondhand market in your area. I used a filing cabinet I already had in my house with a plastic desk organizer jury-rigged into the top drawer to hold all my stuff.

Everything else

Those are the bones of our build, but you’ll probably want a few other things to pull it all together. I highly recommend two of these anti-sag stiffeners, which are important for large pieces of furniture that tend to sink under their own weight.

I bought an unfinished door and stained it myself, so I also needed wood stain and a semi-gloss polyurethane.

Other items will help keep your gear in order. If your computer monitors aren’t height-adjustable, you may want to prop them up on something like a monitor stand. To really tidy up your workspace, I also recommend some sort of cable management, like a rain gutter or the Ikea Signum tray. Be sure to add a mousepad too—it’ll protect the desk surface from black marks and excessive wear.

Last, you’ll need two tools: a drill and a screwdriver (or a drive bit for your drill). You must attach everything to the wood with screws, but you’ll want a drill to create pilot holes, and a drive bit will make it much easier to put the pieces together. If you don’t own one, borrow a drill from a neighbor.

Building the desk

Once you’ve collected all your parts, you’re ready to put everything together.

1. Prepare the surface. I started by sanding, staining, and finishing my door myself. This process isn’t too difficult, but the instructions are outside the scope of this article. If you’ve never done it before, then enlist the help of a friend, or check out these fantastic YouTube guides from Steve Ramsey. It should only take a couple hours of your time, plus a few days of waiting for everything to dry between coats.

A person applying stain to the surface of a wooden door that will serve as the top of a DIY computer desk.
Applying stain can be relaxing, but make sure you’re working in a well-ventilated area—the fumes can become overwhelming. Whitson Gordon

2. Plan the ergonomics. While you’re waiting for the door to dry, do a little ergonomic experimentation. Grab your desk chair and adjust the seat height and arm rests to a comfortable position. Your feet should be flat on the ground, with your elbows and knees at approximate 90-degree angles. Once you’ve got your position just right, measure the distance from the floor to the top of the arm rests, and then subtract the thickness of your surface—usually about an inch and a half. The resulting measurement is the setting you’ll want for your Olov legs, as well as the ideal height for your filing cabinet or drawers. Write it down, and buy the drawers if you plan to include them.

A man sitting at a DIY computer desk, with a small diagram showing how to visualize the desk thickness and height for better ergonomics.
If you’re going to be using your desk a lot, you’ll want it to be comfortable. Whitson Gordon

3. Place your parts. When your slab is ready, flip it upside down and plan out your build, starting with the legs. I recommend one leg in each of the four corners, with a fifth one in the center of the back edge for support. If you plan on incorporating that filing cabinet, it will replace one of those front legs.

Next, grab your anti-sag braces and find a place for them near the middle of the surface. If they bump up against the area where you plan to put your filing cabinet, you may need to set them slightly off-center. If you have any cable management trays, stick them in whatever empty space you have left over. I’m using an Ikea Signum tray and mounting my surge protector on its underside. I had to do a little finagling to find room for everything, so it’s a good idea to plan this all out before you start drilling holes.

The underside of the top of a DIY computer desk, with everything planned out and laid in place.
Planning everything out will ensure you won’t run into many problems as you build. Whitson Gordon

4. Start assembling. Once you’ve found a place for everything, mark and drill some pilot holes for the legs, anti-sag braces, and anything else you’re attaching to the underside. This is critical: If you just start screwing into the surface, you’re likely to split the wood. Attach everything, including the leg brackets, except for the legs themselves. This will take some time and elbow grease, so again, I recommend using your drill as a driver to make things go a lot faster.

A person drilling legs onto the main part of a DIY computer desk.
We recommend a using a drill, but this can be done with a screwdriver—it’ll just take longer and give you more of a workout. Whitson Gordon

5. Add the legs. Now’s a good time to carry your door into the office for the last few steps—you’ll find it a lot less cumbersome to move before attaching the legs. Once it’s arrived in its new home, screw the Olov legs into the brackets. You can then adjust them to your desired height by unscrewing the bottom, sliding them out, and screwing them clockwise to tighten them.

A person fastening legs onto the main part of a DIY computer desk.
Seriously, don’t attach the legs until you desk is in its final location. Whitson Gordon

6. Check the stability and height. Now, flip your desk over and stick the filing cabinet underneath. Ensure that everything is level. (If you don’t own a level, your phone may have a rudimentary one built in.)

While you’re reviewing the desk’s stability, also check its height with your chair. It may seem awfully low to the ground, but that’s because most desks are designed for writing, not computing. Computer desks are usually writing height, with a keyboard tray at arm level. You could set your home-built desk higher and use a screw-on keyboard tray to improve the ergonomics, but I prefer to put everything on one big, flat surface.

A small yellow level checking the top of a DIY computer desk for alignment.
If the desk’s legs are adjustable, fixing any leveling problems should be a breeze. Whitson Gordon

7. Set everything up. Once you’ve double-checked the size and stability of your creation, set up your computer, adjust your monitor so the top is at eye level, and enjoy your new custom workspace!

The completed PopSci DIY computer desk, from the front, where you'd be sitting.
Your friends and family will be jealous. Whitson Gordon

Make it your own

A built-in fingerprint scanner in a homemade DIY computer desk.
With a fingerprint scanner, a USB extension cable, and some moldable glue, you can install some sweet biometrics. Whitson Gordon

This is how I made my desk. But there are a million ways to assemble one, and you might have your own ideas. Got some woodworking chops and want to save even more money? Construct your own legs out of lumber! Want easy-access USB ports? Build them into the surface! Love tech and want to really feel like you’re living in the future? Add a fingerprint scanner! The beauty of this template is that you can adjust it to fit your own tools, skills, and needs.

This story has been updated. It was originally published on May 26, 2018.

The post Build your own desk with custom features like USB ports and biometrics appeared first on Popular Science.

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Experiment with spice by making this homemade hot sauce https://www.popsci.com/diy/homemade-hot-sauce-recipe/ Sat, 28 Jan 2023 17:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=508367
Chilis in a bowl against a black background, perfect for a spicy hot sauce recipe.
Hot peppers are, of course, the key ingredient. Thomas M. Evans / Unsplash

If you like hot sauce, you'll love how easy it is to make.

The post Experiment with spice by making this homemade hot sauce appeared first on Popular Science.

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Chilis in a bowl against a black background, perfect for a spicy hot sauce recipe.
Hot peppers are, of course, the key ingredient. Thomas M. Evans / Unsplash

Spicy food is exciting. Eating it comes with the thrill of consuming something that is meant to hurt you—contests like Paqui’s One Chip Challenge have gone viral many times over. When you cook, adding a bit of heat can be a good way to get a visceral reaction from your guests. And for a truly personal touch, you can craft a hot sauce recipe that’s entirely your own.

Homemade hot sauce is super simple to make, too. At its most basic, a hot sauce is three ingredients: hot peppers, vinegar, and salt. Beyond this trinity, most sauces contain just a few other components—habanero sauces often use mango for that extra sweetness, for example.

Despite their overall simplicity, figuring out how to make hot sauce that pleases your palate is a trial-and-error process, as you add and subtract extra ingredients to build the perfect concoction. So while the two recipes below are solid walkthroughs for mild and spicy sauces, you should feel free to experiment and alter the add-ons as you see fit.

Before you start

When you’re handling hot peppers, it’s important to keep your hands away from your eyes and other sensitive areas so you don’t accidentally irritate your skin. Capsaicin—the chemical compound in hot peppers that makes you feel like your mouth is burning—is largely found in the placenta, or the white stuff that connects the colorful flesh with the seeds. Use particular caution there. With milder peppers, like jalapeños or serranos, the decision to use gloves is up to you, but if you use your bare hands, make sure to wash them thoroughly when you’re done.

If you’re using a superhot pepper like the bhut jolokia or Carolina reaper, definitely wear gloves and be careful with the whole thing: their skin contains capsaicin too, according to Paul Bosland, director of New Mexico State University’s Chile Pepper Institute. Workers at Puckerbutt Pepper Company, where the Carolina reaper was invented, use two pairs of gloves when handling the peppers because the outer pair will wear off in just 30 minutes.

[Related: Why do people like spicy food?]

Although capsaicin is absolutely an irritant, the heat response you feel when touching or eating hot peppers is more of a biological trick. Your skin has one sensory receptor that responds to heat, and capsaicin can bind to that receptor, tricking your body into thinking it’s hot, Bosland says. Capsaicin attaches to fats and oils, but not water, so Bosland suggests reaching for any kind of milk if you eat something too hot. This heat-quenching strategy could be useful as you refine your hot sauce recipe. 

Stats

  • Time: 15 to 30 minutes
  • Ingredient cost: $10
  • Difficulty: easy
  • Yield: about 1 pint

Tools

How to make mild hot sauce

Mild green hot sauce in a mason jar on a cutting board, the result of a homemade hot sauce recipe.
Mild hot sauce doesn’t have to be green, but this one was. Jack Izzo

A pepper’s spice level is measured using the Scoville Heat Unit scale (SHU). Pure capsaicin is approximately 16 million SHU, and the Carolina reaper runs at about 1.5 million. This sauce uses jalapeños (about 8,000 SHU) and a roasted poblano (around 1,000 SHU) for a mild concoction with a lot of flavor.

This sauce came out green because all the peppers I used were green, but if you want a red hot sauce, you could use Fresno, Calabrian, or cayenne peppers. Beyond the base pepper-vinegar-salt combo, you can add a few cloves of garlic and some ground cumin if you want to make the flavor more complex. 

Ingredients

  • 4 jalapeños
  • ½ cup of white vinegar
  • 1 teaspoon of kosher salt
  • 4 garlic cloves
  • Black pepper
  • (Optional) 1 poblano pepper
  • (Optional) 1 teaspoon of ground cumin

Instructions

1. (Optional) Roast the poblano. Preheat your oven to broil, then wash your poblano pepper. When the oven is ready, roast the pepper for five minutes on each side, 10 minutes total. You’re looking for charred, blackened skin, so feel free to cook for another five or 10 minutes if you’re not satisfied with the results.

2. Prepare your ingredients. Wash your peppers if you haven’t already, then remove their stems and peel the garlic cloves. Cut the jalapeños and poblano into halves or quarters, depending on their size. Since all of this will be blended together, you don’t have to finely chop the ingredients.

3. Blend everything. Put the halved peppers, garlic, white vinegar, and kosher salt into your blender, and blend until all the ingredients are well combined, about one minute.

4. Add seasonings. Despite the name of our publication, cooking can definitely be more of an art than a science sometimes. Before you add anything, taste the blend to figure out what’s missing. After my first spin, I added a teaspoon of ground cumin, eight cranks of black pepper, and another splash of white vinegar. If you think the sauce is too acidic, you can add a bit of sugar. If you want a very runny hot sauce (like Tabasco) you can add more vinegar. You can also dilute the vinegar with water to avoid making the sauce too acidic. 

  • Note: This recipe is light on vinegar because I wanted a slightly more viscous sauce. It’s also important to remember that while you can always add more of an ingredient, you can’t add less, so use moderation if you’re unsure about proportions.

5. Blend everything again. Incorporate the seasonings you added by blending the mixture for another minute. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you’re satisfied with how your sauce looks and tastes. 

6. Bottle it up. Once you’re happy with the taste of your homemade hot sauce, it’s time to store it. You can reuse old (clean) hot sauce bottles by putting a funnel into the bottle and pouring your new sauce in. If you have a few mason jars lying around the house, you can use those instead.

How to make spicier hot sauce

A mason jar full of spicy red hot sauce, from a homemade hot sauce recipe.
Thai chilies give this homemade hot sauce its red color. Jack Izzo

For a hotter sauce, I decided to use Thai (or bird’s eye) chilies. These chilies are small and packed with heat, coming in at roughly 100,000 SHU, so I added a red bell pepper to reduce the spice and increase the volume of my sauce. Hot sauces are normally made with white vinegar, apple cider vinegar, or rice vinegar, and I chose the last of those three for this because it’s the sweetest and least acidic—I was concerned about too many conflicting tastes. I also added some soy sauce (and halved the amount of salt so the sauce wasn’t too salty), garlic, and ginger to add a different type of pungent flavor.

[Related: Spiciness isn’t a taste, and more burning facts about the mysterious sensation]

If you don’t have high spice tolerance, don’t worry. Everyone’s spice tolerance is based on the number of sensory receptors they have on their tongue, Bosland says. Fewer receptors means a person has high spice tolerance, while more receptors means a lower tolerance. But the more receptors you have, the more you’ll pick up on the subtler notes of a pepper’s heat.

Ingredients

  • About ⅛ pound of Thai chilies
  • 1 red bell pepper
  • ½ teaspoon of kosher salt
  • 2 garlic cloves
  • 1 small knob of ginger
  • ½ cup of rice vinegar
  • ¼ cup of soy sauce
  • (Optional) toasted sesame oil

Instructions

1. Prepare your ingredients. Wash your chilies and pepper, then remove their stems. Roughly chop the bell pepper. The Thai chilies are small enough that you can just leave them whole. Remove the skin from both the garlic and ginger.

2. Blend everything together. Put the peppers, chilies, garlic, ginger, rice vinegar, soy sauce, and kosher salt into your blender, and blend on high until the ingredients are well combined. This may take one to two minutes.

  • Note: You may have to stop the blender and scrape down the sides a few times to ensure all ingredients are fully mixed into the sauce.

3. Add seasonings. For this sauce, the only additional seasoning I used was toasted sesame oil. Its flavor can be overwhelming, so add extremely small amounts if you use it, tasting until you reach your preferred flavor.

4. Blend everything again. Incorporate the seasonings you added by blending the mixture again for about a minute. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until you’re satisfied with how your sauce looks and tastes. 

5. Bottle it up. Once you’re happy with the taste, use a funnel and an old hot sauce bottle, mason jar, or another equivalent container to store the sauce.

The post Experiment with spice by making this homemade hot sauce appeared first on Popular Science.

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The best sewing machines for quilting in 2023 https://www.popsci.com/gear/best-sewing-machines-for-quilting/ Tue, 21 Jun 2022 14:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=450309
The best sewing machines for quilting
Stan Horaczek

With sewing machines that provide quilter-friendly features, innovative sewists can produce stunning quilts that serve both utilitarian and artistic purposes.

The post The best sewing machines for quilting in 2023 appeared first on Popular Science.

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The best sewing machines for quilting
Stan Horaczek

We may earn revenue from the products available on this page and participate in affiliate programs. Learn more ›

Best overall Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 Sewing Machine is the best overall sewing machine for quilting. Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 Sewing Machine
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High-speed capacity and a wide array of built-in stitches and fonts make this machine a versatile favorite for quilters and sewists.

Best budget Brother XR3774 Sewing and Quilting Machine is the best for the budget. Brother XR3774 Sewing and Quilting Machine
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An affordable,mechanical machine with a variety of built-in stitches, a well-designed walking foot for sewing layers of fabric, and attachments for quilting.

Best computerized Brother HC1850 Sewing and Quilting Machine is the best computerized. Brother HC1850 Sewing and Quilting Machine
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A computerized machine with automatic drop feed for the free-motion sewing technique utilized by many quilters.

The best sewing machine for quilting is one that suits the quilter’s level of expertise as well as their budget, all while providing features and functionality that accommodate the sewing of large, bulky materials. Many quilters engage in sewing garments, home decor items, and craft projects in addition to quilting. For these sewists, versatile sewing machines fit the bill. While shopping for sewing machines, they may search for built-in, decorative stitches, as well as buttonhole stitches and monogramming fonts.

On the other hand, serious quilters may seek out high-speed machines that produce only straight stitches for quilting. Additionally, they might select models that provide exceptionally large throat space and extended work tables to accommodate the bulky materials of large quilts. Here are our picks for the best sewing machines for quilting.

How we chose the best sewing machines for quilting

Alliance, a 2020 survey revealed a quilting market estimated at $4.2 billion per year. Additionally, the group estimates that between 9 million and 11 million quilters in North America are actively involved in the art of quilt-making. Each quilting enthusiast seeks to utilize the best sewing machines for quilting, crafting, and sewing their unique projects, and each can find a specialized machine that suits their needs here. 

To begin our research on the best sewing machines for quilting, we read the product descriptions and specifications for 14 sewing and quilting machines from five different manufacturers. From that research, we selected six machines for our list of recommendations. To identify them, we took a deeper dive into the details, features, and specifications as described on the manufacturers’ websites. These companies are well-respected leaders in the production of sewing and quilting machines; they include Singer, Brother, Janome, and Juki. In addition to reading the product descriptions, we gleaned additional information about the machines from critical and customer reviews and the answers to FAQs. 

We considered both computerized and mechanical sewing machines for quilting with special attention to automatic features that save time and effort for the user. Additionally, we searched for machines that include wide extension tables to accommodate the large swaths of fabric required for quilt-making projects. Knowing that the quilter must maneuver the bulky fabric through the machine, we considered the throat size of each machine. Additional factors included the availability of quilting feet, quilting guide bars, and drop-feed functioning for free-motion sewing. Although we did not limit our selections to machines with low-end price points, we did consider value and expense in our selection process.

The best sewing machines for quilting: Reviews & Recommendations

Best overall: Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 Sewing Machine

SINGER

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Why it made the cut: With a large, attachable work table, a vast array of built-in stitches, and numerous automatic features to save time and effort, the Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 sewing machine is favored by quilters.

Specs

  • Weight: 20 pounds
  • Product dimensions: 17.25 inches long by 8.25 inches wide by 12 inches high
  • Computerized or mechanical: Computerized

Pros 

  • Speed control with high-speed capacity
  • Includes 14 interchangeable, attachable feet
  • 600 built-in stitches with 5 fonts for monogramming
  • Extension table for larger work area

Cons 

  • The throat is not as large as some machines

The Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 computerized sewing machine receives high praise from quilters. Additionally, it’s a versatile machine that lends itself to myriad, creative sewing projects in addition to quilting. With an enormous array of 600 built-in stitches and five alphanumeric fonts, this machine allows sewists to fulfill their most imaginative quilting dreams. Quilters may elongate and mirror-image many of the built-in stitches to achieve truly unique designs.

In addition to accessories such as needles and bobbins, this machine includes a large extension table that is ideal for working with bulky quilts. Included, interchangeable accessories facilitate multiple sewing tasks, including: Quilting guide bar; General purpose foot; Zipper foot; Buttonhole foot; Satin foot; Blind hem foot; Narrow hem foot; Open toe foot; Cording foot; Darning/embroidery foot (may be used for free-motion sewing); Even feed/walking foot; Overcasting foot; Button sewing foot; and Quarter-inch foot.

The Quantum Stylist 9960 is capable of numerous functions that make sewing and quilting easier and more enjoyable. The speed control allows fast sewing of up to 850 stitches per minute for straight seams. Alternatively, sewers can select a slower pace for intricate patterns. For quick set-up, the see-through bobbin features a top drop-in design that allows easy monitoring of the thread supply. When it’s time to thread the needle, the machine accomplishes the job automatically, eliminating frustration and eye strain.

Best computerized: Brother HC1850 Sewing and Quilting Machine

Brother

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Why it made the cut: The Brother HC1850 computerized sewing machine offers quilter-friendly features, such as a spring-action quilting foot and free-motion sewing along with push-button stitch selection and a backlit LCD screen.

Specs

  • Weight: 10.14 pounds
  • Product dimensions: 19.2 inches long by 12.5 inches wide by 15.2 inches high
  • Computerized or mechanical: Computerized

Pros 

  • Automatic drop feed for free-motion sewing
  • 185 built-in stitches
  • Large table workspace
  • Automatic needle threader

Cons 

  • The throat is not as large as some machines

Many quilters engage in various types of creative sewing projects, but they look for specific quilting functions when they shop for sewing machines. The Brother HC1850 computerized machine offers several preferred quilting features. These include a detachable wide table, a spring-action quilting foot, and the capability to perform free-motion sewing. On top of that, the machine boasts 185 built-in stitches, including 55 alphanumeric stitches for monogramming and eight one-step buttonhole stitches. Users may consult the built-in stitch flip-chart and select their preferred stitch patterns with push-button ease. Their selections display clearly on a backlit LCD screen. 

Numerous features of this machine facilitate creative quilting, sewing, and monogramming activities. Both the top drop-in bobbin and the automatic needle-threading system assist in quick and easy set-up. A speed-control system allows sewers to accomplish fast stitching for straight seams or utilize a slower pace for free-motion sewing and intricate patterns. At any speed, the advanced feed system ensures the smooth movement of multiple, diverse fabric types through the machine. Additionally, the bright LED light illuminates the work area for precision sewing.

The Brother HC1850 machine includes eight interchangeable feet for a variety of sewing and quilting functions, including: Spring-action quilting foot; Blindstitch foot; Buttonhole foot; Button-fitting foot; Overcasting foot; Monogramming foot; Zipper foot; and Zigzag foot. Additional accessories include needles, bobbins, a seam ripper, a screwdriver, and more.

Best with a wide work table: Brother PQ1500SL Sewing and Quilting Machine

Brother

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Why it made the cut: Boasting an extra-wide work table and a large throat, the Brother PQ1500SL machine adds a pin-feed mechanism, a built-in knee lifter, and four feed-dog adjustments to make quilting a dream come true.

Specs

  • Weight: 29.76 pounds
  • Product dimensions: 19.3 inches long by 7.9 inches wide by 12.6 inches high
  • Computerized or mechanical: Mechanical

Pros 

  • High-speed straight stitching
  • Large throat area for bulky quilts
  • Extra-large table work area
  • Pin feed mechanism

Cons 

  • A bit expensive
  • Straight stitches only, no built-in, decorative stitches

For passionate quilters, the Brother PQ1500SL sewing machine offers several advantages over other machines that promote versatility for multiple types of sewing projects. It’s a straight-stitch machine that is capable of high-speed operation, up to 1,500 stitches per minute. But it does not offer built-in, decorative stitching options.

This machine provides the necessary workspace to create large quilts. The extra-wide, attachable table measures 11 inches by 21.5 inches. Additionally, the throat area is larger than most machines. It provides a needle-to-arm space of 5.7 inches by 8.6 inches. Both the extension table and the throat accommodate the extra bulk of quilting projects. 

When the feed-dog system is used, the machine allows four optional settings to achieve maximum control of diverse fabric types. Alternatively, this machine offers the option of a pin-feed mechanism that operates in lieu of the feed-dog system. An adjustable pin extends from below to maneuver all layers of a quilt together in a smooth feed through the machine. The spring-action quilting foot adjusts to variations in the layers and thickness of the fabric as it feeds through the machine. Additionally, the built-in knee lifter is a handy feature for quilters. It allows the sewer to lift and lower the presser foot by moving a lever with their knee. Therefore, the user’s hands are free to control the movement of the fabric. 

Along with needles, bobbins, and additional accessories, the machine includes seven interchangeable sewing feet, including: Spring-action quilting foot; Walking foot; Quarter-inch foot; General purpose foot; Rolled hem foot; Adjustable zipper/piping foot; and Invisible zipper foot.

Best with a large throat: Juki TL-2000Qi Sewing and Quilting Machine

JUKI

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Why it made the cut: With its large throat area and wide, attachable table, the Juki TL-2000Qi sewing machine offers ample workspace for manipulating bulky quilting materials. 

Specs

  • Weight: 25.4 pounds
  • Product dimensions: 17.8 inches long by 8.6 inches wide by 13.8 inches high
  • Computerized or mechanical: Mechanical

Pros 

  • High-speed sewing, up to 1,500 stitches per minute
  • Large throat area
  • Wide, attachable extension table
  • Knee lifter

Cons 

  • Straight stitches only; does not include decorative stitches

With headquarters in Tokyo, Japan, the Juki Corporation and Juki America, Inc. provide sewing equipment for industrial use, as well as home sewing machines. The Juki TL2000Qi sewing machine is favored by quilters as a single-needle, lockstitch machine that is well-suited for high-speed, precision, straight-stitch sewing. One of its features favored by quilters is the large throat area, measuring 8.5 inches long by 5.9 inches high. Additionally, an attachable extension table offers extra space for sewing bulky quilts. 

Several convenient features make this sewing machine a delight to use. The automatic needle threader takes the frustration out of threading the needle, and the automatic thread trimmer cuts both the needle and bobbin threads simultaneously with only a light push of a button. An enlarged bobbin case area makes it easier than ever to remove and replace the bobbins. The knee lifter allows sewers to raise and lower the presser foot without using their hands. This feature means that users can keep their hands on the fabric at all times for greater control.

Simply turn a regulator on top of the machine to adjust the presser foot pressure for diverse types of fabric. Use the Needle Up/Down control to designate the needle position when the machine stops. A down position facilitates a pivoting action that is useful in the free-motion sewing technique required for many quilting projects.

The Juki TL2000Qi machine is capable of high-speed sewing, producing up to 1,500 stitches per minute. The arm and bed are constructed of die-cast aluminum to produce only minimal vibration when the machine is in use. Accessories and interchangeable feet include the following: Needle pack, bobbins, and spool cap; Screwdriver and lint brush; ⅕-inch quilting foot; Even-feed foot; Compensating presser foot; and Standard presser foot.

Best for free-motion sewing: Janome MC6650 Sewing and Quilting Machine

Janome

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Why it made the cut: The Janome Memory Craft 6650 sewing machine facilitates free-motion sewing, as well as offers a plethora of convenient features and accessories for creating beautiful, heirloom-quality quilts.

Specs

  • Weight: 24.25 pounds
  • Product dimensions: 20 inches long by 9 inches wide by 12 inches high
  • Computerized or mechanical: Computerized

Pros 

  • Drop-feed capability for free-motion sewing
  • 6 LED lights in 3 locations
  • High speed up to 1,000 stitches per minute
  • 170 built-in stitches + 2 alphabets

Cons 

  • Upper-end price point

Serious quilters who want to achieve new heights of artistic expression through their quilting projects may be interested in the computerized Janome Memory Craft 6650 sewing and quilting machine. One of the trademark techniques for quilters is free-motion sewing. This machine facilitates that technique through its drop-feed capability that lowers the feed dogs to disengage their hold on the fabric. Additionally, the programmable needle up/down feature allows users to pivot the fabric when the machine stops with the needle in the down position. Among the standard accessories, the MC6650 includes interchangeable parts for free-motion sewing, such as a convertible, free-motion quilting foot set; a free-motion quilting holder; and a free-motion quilting zigzag foot.

Create imaginative and unique quilts with the 170 built-in stitches, including many decorative options. A backlit LCD screen displays the stitches, and users simply push a button to make their selections. The built-in stitches include two alphabets for monogramming quilts and other sewing projects. Slide a lever to control the machine’s operating speed, up to 1,000 stitches per minute. 

Numerous, convenient features make the Janome MC6650 a joy to operate. The machine includes two needle plates along with a one-push needle plate conversion mechanism. An automatic needle threading system takes the annoyance out of threading the needle. The entire work area is well-lit via six LED lights placed in three locations on the machine. Use the manual thread-tension control to adjust the tension for various fabric types, then enjoy the smooth feed of fabric facilitated by the 5-piece feed-dog system.

In addition to the free-motion accessories mentioned above, the Janome MC6650 machine offers an array of standard, interchangeable parts for versatility in sewing projects, including: Blind hem foot G; Buttonhole foot; Darning foot; Open-toe satin stitch foot; Overedge foot M; Rolled hem foot; Satin stitch foot; Zigzag foot; and Zipper foot E.

Best budget: Brother XR3774 Sewing and Quilting Machine

Brother

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Why it made the cut: For budget-minded quilters, the Brother XR3774 mechanical sewing machine offers numerous friendly features, including a large table, spring-action quilting foot, and a quilting guide bar.

Specs 

  • Weight: 15.87 pounds
  • Product dimensions: 15.3 inches long by 8 inches wide by 12 inches high
  • Computerized or mechanical: Mechanical

Pros 

  • Large extension table
  • Spring-action quilting foot for free-motion sewing
  • 37 built-in stitches
  • Automatic needle threader

Cons 

  • Not computerized
  • Not as many built-in stitches as some machines

Available at an affordable price point, the Brother XR3774 sewing machine offers multiple features that quilters appreciate. The extra-large table facilitates manipulating the bulky fabric of large quilts. Additionally, a well-designed walking foot allows sewists to simultaneously feed multiple layers of fabric through the machine. A transparent plastic quilting foot promotes visibility for the sewer. On top of that, the quilting foot features a spring-action design to raise and lower the foot as it glides over varying layers of fabric. An included quilting guide bar helps quilters achieve evenly spaced rows of stitches in their projects. 

Although this mechanical machine does not feature the high-tech attributes of computerized machines, it does offer numerous convenient features to make sewing tasks easier. Sewists can utilize the 37 built-in stitches for 74 stitch functions, including a 1-step, buttonhole maker with automatic sizing. The automatic needle threader saves time and frustration, and the top drop-in bobbin is jam resistant for trouble-free sewing sessions. Additionally, the machine winds the bobbin automatically. When users are not working on quilting projects, the built-in free arm allows sewing in tight spaces, such as cuffs, sleeves, and trouser legs. 

See all of the functions and features of the XR3774 machine via the bright LED light that illuminates the work area. Shift from one sewing task to another by attaching the eight interchangeable sewing feet that come with the machine, including: Quilting foot; Walking foot; Blind stitch foot; Zipper foot; Zigzag foot; Buttonhole foot; Button sewing foot; and Narrow hem foot.

Things to consider before buying a sewing machine for quilting

Quilting is an ancient, decorative art that dates back to the Middle Ages in Europe and to earlier centuries in the Middle East and Asia. Today, millions of sewists engage in the art of quilting to produce utilitarian bed coverings that also exist as works of art and become family heirlooms for future generations. For quilters, sewing machines with specialized features provide the best tools for their craft. Before selecting a machine for quilting, shoppers might consider the following factors.

Extra-wide work table

Sewing a quilt requires manipulating large swaths of fabric with multiple layers through the sewing machine. For this purpose, the free arm of a machine does not provide sufficient workspace. Therefore, sewers need a detachable work table that may be fitted in place to enlarge the horizontal work surface. Quilters may search for sewing machines that advertise a wide extension table to ensure adequate space for maneuvering the bulky fabric of a quilt.

Large throat area

The throat of a sewing machine is the open space bordered by the upright arm, the horizontal arm, the sewing head, and the bed of the machine. With a longer horizontal arm and a taller vertical arm, the throat area is larger and therefore capable of accommodating the bulky materials of a quilt. Quilting and sewing machines for home use are generally classified as short-arm machines. Within this category, many throats measure only approximately 5-inches long. However, quilters might search for models that feature throats measuring 8- to 9-inches long.

Free motion sewing

For most sewing projects, the metal teeth of the feed dogs emerge through the throat plate of the machine to guide the fabric in a straight line as it feeds through the machine and under the needle for stitching. The teeth of the feed dogs gently grip the fabric to control its movement. However, many quilting projects require free-motion sewing, a technique where the feed dogs are disengaged to allow the sewist to control the movement of the fabric and the direction of the stitching. Quilters create interesting designs with the free-motion technique. Therefore, they search for sewing machines that advertise the drop feed feature, indicating that the feed dogs may be disengaged to allow free-motion sewing.

FAQs

Q: What is the best quilting sewing machine?

Due to the large amount of fabric in a quilting project, quilters might search for machines with large throats and attachable extension tables. These features allow quilters to manage the bulky quilt materials. Additionally, quilters who use the free-motion sewing technique might search for machines with a drop-feed function. 

Q: What is the difference between a regular sewing machine and a quilting machine?

The difference between a regular sewing machine and a quilting machine is that a quilting machine facilitates specific sewing techniques for making quilts. Interchangeable parts, such as a spring-action quilting foot and a quilting guide bar, assist the quilter in their work. A large throat area and a wide extension table provide the workspace necessary for handling bulky quilts. Quilters also prefer machines that offer a drop-feed function for free-motion sewing. 

Q: How much does a sewing machine for quilting cost?

A sewing machine for quilting costs as little as $150-$200 or as much as $2,000-$4,000. Quilters may search a wide range of machines with varying features and capabilities. 

Q: Can you quilt with a regular sewing machine?

You can quilt with a regular sewing machine by manufacturers such as Singer and Brother, but it might not provide a large enough throat area and work table to handle the large amount of fabric in a quilt. Managing the bulky quilting materials on a regular sewing machine might prove to be awkward. Additionally, some regular sewing machines do not offer the drop-feed function that makes free-motion sewing possible.

Q: What sewing machine does Suzy quilts use?

Suzy Quilts uses a BERNINA sewing machine. Suzy is a BERNINA expert ambassador and she publishes a blog offering tutorials, quilt patterns, fabrics, quilting tools, and more. 

Q: Do you need a special sewing machine for quilting?

You need a special sewing machine for quilting if you plan to engage seriously and regularly in the craft of quilt making. For beginners and casual hobbyists, it is possible to sew quilts on any sewing machine; however, the machine may not provide enough space to handle the bulky materials. Many sewing machines provide versatility for sewing garments and home decor items as well as creating crafts and quilts. 

Q: Can you use a mini sewing machine for quilting?

You cannot use a mini sewing machine for quilting because it would be too small to sew through the multiple layers of fabric in a quilt. Additionally, a mini sewing machine does not provide the workspace necessary to handle the large, bulky materials of a quilt.

Final thoughts on the best sewing machines for quilting

The Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 receives high marks from reviewers and sewists ranging from beginners to seasoned experts who applaud its durability and versatility. With computerized functioning, it offers a wide array of automatic features that make sewing a pleasurable activity, leading to successful outcomes in quilting, sewing, and crafting projects. For ease of use and versatile features, the Quantum Stylist 9960 is an ideal choice as the best sewing machine for quilters and sewing enthusiasts. 

The post The best sewing machines for quilting in 2023 appeared first on Popular Science.

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Simple DIY picture frames that will elevate your home decor https://www.popsci.com/diy/diy-picture-frames/ Fri, 06 Jan 2023 17:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=503440
Two DIY picture frames next to each other on a beige wall, with sunset photos inside them.
You can hang almost any picture once you know how to build your own frames. Jean Levasseur

Make art out of random scraps of wood (and your favorite photos).

The post Simple DIY picture frames that will elevate your home decor appeared first on Popular Science.

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Two DIY picture frames next to each other on a beige wall, with sunset photos inside them.
You can hang almost any picture once you know how to build your own frames. Jean Levasseur

Pictures are some of the most personal decorations you can have in your home. They represent memories, hopes, or even just a glimpse into your passions. One way to enhance the deep connection you have with the photos you display is to build the frame yourself.  

DIY picture frames are a simple, straightforward project that any beginner can take on. They’re also an excellent educational endeavor, as they form the foundation of many projects, like the wall-mounted laundry drying rack I made a few months ago. You can make something simple, like the basic frame I describe below, or try out some creative upgrades. Maybe you want to add splines, make the frames out of fancy moulding, or even explore how to do inlays for visual contrast.

I decided to go the basic route because I needed frames for my kids’ 5-by-7-inch school pictures in my office, and I didn’t want to distract from their handsome little faces. I also didn’t want to spend a ton of money, so I made as much of the frame as I could from materials I had kicking around. I scavenged the wood from the rails of an old bed, and the backer is cardboard from one of the many Amazon boxes we receive each week. And the best part is that no one will ever know they’re made from scraps. It’s amazing what a nice coat of paint will hide.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a facemask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

  • Time: 2 to 3 hours
  • Material cost: $5 to $50
  • Difficulty: Easy

Materials

Tools

How to build DIY picture frames

1. Clean up your reclaimed wood as needed. When working with recycled or reclaimed wood, whether it’s from pallets, old furniture, or a random board you found buried in your shed, you’ll need to clean it up before it touches tools. A shop vac and scrub brush can help remove dirt and debris from the surface. Then take out any hardware like hinges, screws, and nails. Consider using a nail-finding magnet if you regularly work with reclaimed wood—you don’t want to discover a missed nail with your table saw. If the boards are especially rough, you can also sand them down with 80-grit sandpaper.

2. Mill your wood to rough dimensions. Milling wood is a critical skill in woodworking, and PopSci has an entire guide on how to do it. Essentially, milling involves flattening each side of the board with a jointer and planer so the faces and edges form right angles. If you don’t start with flat wood, your corner joints won’t be as strong, and your frame might hang crooked on the wall. Depending on what kind of wood you’re using, you may not have to do much milling. My recycled bed rails were already flat and square, so I didn’t mill or joint them. I just cut them down to rough length on my miter saw and to actual width on my table saw. 

[Related: Tune up your table saw the right way]

At the end of your milling process, you should have two 9-inch-long boards and two 7-inch ones, all ⅝- to ¾-inch wide.

3. Cut the mitered ends on each board. Since this project is a frame for a 5-by-7 picture, with ¼-inch rabbet joints on all sides, the short side of each miter should be 4.5 inches on the smaller boards and 6.5 inches on the longer ones. The length of the longer side of each miter will depend on exactly how wide your boards are.

There are several ways to cut miter joints, including, as you may have guessed, on a miter saw. However, I prefer to use a table saw on smaller boards like this. It feels safer and more accurate. You can use the miter gauge that came with your table saw to make this cut, or you can build a mitering sled.  

  • Pro tip: However you decide to cut the pieces, use stop blocks to set the lengths rather than measuring each cut individually, if you can. Stop blocks guarantee that the paired pieces are exactly the same size, which is critical to getting well-fitting miters.
A table saw set at a 45-degree angle, being used to cut DIY picture frame pieces at mitered angles, with a stop block.
Using a stop block like this can ensure consistent cuts. Jean Levasseur

4. Cut the rabbets. A rabbet is a small channel cut along the edge of a piece of wood. In this case, the rabbets are where the glass and picture sit in the frame without falling through the front. You’ll need to add these channels to the back of each board along the inside edge, so they all face inward when assembled.

Like many woodworking tasks, there are several techniques for cutting rabbets. My preferred method for narrow rabbets like these is on the table saw, using a single blade instead of a dado stack. Making two passes with a single blade is faster than changing over my saw to take the dado. 

Lay a board down flat next to the blade, and set its height to about half the thickness of the wood. In my case, this was about ⅜-inch tall. Then set your fence so the blade will cut the inside portion of the rabbet. Make your cut on all four frame pieces.

Once all four are cut, move your fence to the right an eighth of an inch, then cut again, removing more wood and widening the rabbet. If you still need to, keep moving the fence over until you’ve removed all of the material for the rabbet. 

  • Warning: Even though the blade won’t stick out the top of the wood, still use a push stick or push block. You never know when a board might break, jump, or kick back, leaving your hands behind to fall on the blade.  

5. Glue the frames together. The easiest way to glue up miters is with specialized clamps. I used corner clamps for this project, which are designed for 90-degree glue-ups. You can also use a strap clamp, which is going to be my next shop upgrade. But have no fear if you don’t have specialized clamps for corners yet—painter’s tape works in a pinch.  

A more detailed explanation of how to use painter’s tape this way is available in an article I wrote about building a small wedding card box. The gist, however, is that you start by laying all four pieces of the frame down flat, end to end, with the outer points of the miters touching. Then connect them with a 2- to 3-inch piece of painter’s tape, pulling the tape as tight as you can. This will create a long train of frame pieces. Flip the whole unit onto its back, so the tape is down and the valleys of the miters are facing up. Spread a thin layer of glue into those valleys, then fold the miters together. The last corner won’t be secure, so stretch a piece of tape over it to hold it in place, then adjust everything as needed to make sure it’s flat and square. 

6. Cut the acrylic to size. Cutting acrylic is as easy as cutting a thin sheet of plywood on the table saw. You don’t need a special blade or anything. Size the acrylic to fit inside the rabbet within the frame. I cut mine about a sixteenth of an inch small so it slips in and out easily.  

There are a few tips that will make this step a bit easier:

  • Leave the protective plastic on the acrylic while cutting. This will keep it from getting scratched by any dust or debris on your saw. 
  • Make sure the acrylic can’t slide beneath the fence. If there is a large enough gap below the fence, clamp a flat, well-milled board to it, with one edge flush to the tabletop.
  • Lightly sand the edges of the acrylic when you’re done. The friction of the saw blade melts the plastic, so you might be left with uneven edges. Those burrs come off no problem with 120-grit paper.

7. Sand the picture frames smooth. Because photo frames aren’t a high-contact item, and I was planning to paint them anyway, I didn’t do much sanding for this project. I only did a single pass with my orbital sander using 120-grit paper. This cleaned up any glue squeeze-out and small imperfections at the corners, while preparing the wood nicely for paint.

[Related: The surprising woodworking tools you already have around the house]

8. Apply finish. What kind of finish you use is a matter of personal taste. I decided to paint my frame black, for two reasons. First, I had some leftover black paint, so I didn’t have to buy anything new for this project. Second, the reclaimed wood I used didn’t look super nice. It didn’t have any interesting grain, there were a few imperfections, and some of the old stain was still visible. Paint’s an easy way to cover up less-than-stellar wood, so I paint recycled wood projects a lot.

9. Cut your frame backer. There are all kinds of products you can use for this, but in the spirit of recycling, I used a piece of cardboard that I cut to size, using the acrylic as a template. It doesn’t really matter what you use, because no one ever looks at the back of a picture frame.  

10. Install hanging hardware. This is another decision that comes down to personal preference. I like to use sawtooth hangers because they’re pretty forgiving of a little imprecision in the hanging process. Picture frame wire is another easy method. Whatever you use, however, pre-drill the holes for any screws. You don’t want the frame to crack after you’re this far into the process.

11. Put it all together. Place the acrylic first, then the picture, then the backer piece. The final step is to secure that backer so that everything doesn’t fall out when you pick it up. There’s actually a specialized tool for this called a point driver, and you might want to pick one up if you plan on making a lot of picture frames. If, like me, you’re one of the many woodworkers who don’t have one, just use a staple gun.  

12. Hang the frame, stand back, and admire. How you hang the picture depends a bit on the hardware you choose. Because I used a single sawtooth hanger, I was able to just hammer a single nail into the wall, with about a quarter-inch sticking out, and hung the frame from that. 

Now, when guests comment on what a lovely picture you have on your wall, you can say, “Yes, but did you know I made the frame?” And bask in the ensuing compliments.

The post Simple DIY picture frames that will elevate your home decor appeared first on Popular Science.

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Make these DIY wooden kitchen utensils for your favorite cook https://www.popsci.com/diy/how-to-make-a-wooden-spoon/ Thu, 15 Dec 2022 13:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=498343
A homemade wooden spoon or spatula inside an empty wok on a black electric stove.
Making your own kitchen utensils takes your home cooking to another level. Jean Levasseur

Homemade spoons, spatulas, and stirrers are an easy afternoon project.

The post Make these DIY wooden kitchen utensils for your favorite cook appeared first on Popular Science.

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A homemade wooden spoon or spatula inside an empty wok on a black electric stove.
Making your own kitchen utensils takes your home cooking to another level. Jean Levasseur

Sometimes being a woodworker is a lot like being a genie. The other day, my wife was using a curved wooden stirring spatula to make cheese sauce for mac ’n’ cheese. “I wish I had one of these, but way longer,” she said to me. So I went downstairs, found a scrap of maple about the size she wanted, and made her a bigger one. Though I’d never made a kitchen utensil before, it took about two hours, and was far easier than I had anticipated.

No matter your skill level, making a wooden spatula, spoon, or some other kind of utensil offers lots of options for creativity with a wide range of shapes and styles. You can copy something you already have like I did, find a template online to use as a base, or create a style that is completely new. Whether you’re looking for a relatively quick present or trying to enhance your kitchen arsenal, whatever you craft is sure to be a crowd pleaser.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a facemask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

  • Time: 1 to 2 hours
  • Material cost: $5 to $10
  • Difficulty: Easy

Tools

Materials

How to make a wooden spoon, or any other utensil

1. Draw your design on the wood. Because I made a larger version of an existing utensil, I freehanded the design with the original as a reference. If you purchased a template, cut it out and trace it onto your board.

Remember that a template has two profiles. There’s the main shape that you’d see when you put the utensil down flat, but there’s also the narrow edge profile. You’ll need to draw both of these.

  • Pro tip: I always prefer drawing on the wood rather than taping a template to the board. This helps me avoid losing my design partway through if the paper falls off or gets shredded while I’m cutting.  

2. Cut out the rough shape on the band saw. Start cutting the largest profile, as though the utensil is lying flat. Try to get the general shape in one or two large cuts, rather than many small ones—this will make the second profile easier to trim.

[Related: The surprising woodworking tools you already have around the house]

3. Tape the cutoff pieces back onto the rough-cut block. This may seem counterproductive, but putting these edge pieces back in place stabilizes the board so you can cut out the second profile more safely and accurately. You may need to redraw sections of the edge profile over the tape, but you’ll thank yourself later.

4. Refine the shape. Once you have the general shape, use your band saw to trim the more intricate and detailed areas. You can also use chisels or hand saws for this, depending on your comfort, the cuts required, and your access to tools. Notch out the tighter angles and corners, start to shape the handle, and form whatever curves you can. If you have a spoon gouge (I do not), scoop out the spoon head as needed.  

Any material you remove now is material you won’t have to sand off later. If you’re using only an orbital sander, like I did, get as close as you can, because the orbital sander is slow. A belt sander removes more material faster, so if you have access to one of those, you can be a bit less precise with this step.

  • Warning: Be careful while making these more intricate cuts, both for your physical safety and to avoid removing too much material. Better to spend 10 extra minutes sanding than to accidentally cut your handle (or fingertip) off. 

5. Sand until you can’t feel your hands, then sand some more. Sanding will be by far the longest and hardest part of this project. Rather than simply smoothing the wood like when you’re building a cutting board or piece of furniture, you’ll be using sanding to actually finish shaping the utensil. I sanded my entire spoon using just an orbital sander and my quickly-cramping hands, so it’s absolutely doable if that’s all you have. However, manual sanding will take a long time, and—as I said above—a belt sander will definitely speed up the process.  

Start with 60-grit paper to maximize material removal. Don’t be afraid to change sanding discs regularly when they start to dull. With this grit, your goal will be to remove all of the saw and chisel marks and refine the shape to near-finished dimensions. 

Most of my time was spent working on the handle, trying to find a comfortable shape and size. I actually went back to the bandsaw to remove more material several times during the sanding process, just to speed it along.  

Once you’re satisfied with the shape, move through the remaining grits, up to 220. I used 80-, 120-, 150-, and then 220-grit paper.

6. “Water pop” the wood. The first time your spoon gets wet, the wood fibers will absorb the water and expand. No matter how well you’ve sanded, this will cause the wood to feel rough and unsanded. The way to avoid this is called “water popping.” All you have to do is get the wood wet, then let it dry. Lightly hand-sand the resulting roughness off of the spoon with 220-grit paper, or whatever grit you finished with. This will knock down those bloated fibers, and bring back the nice smooth texture. You may have to water pop your project two or three times to achieve a perfect result.

  • Warning: Don’t use a powered sander for this. If you do, you might take off too much material, and you’ll have the same roughness the next time your spoon gets wet. 

7. Apply finish. Because this is a cooking spoon, you’ll need to use a food-safe finish. I use cutting board conditioner, which is a mixture of mineral oil and beeswax. Squeeze some on and gently wipe it all over the spoon with a clean rag. Let the oil soak in for 15 to 20 minutes, then wipe off the excess. If you find that the wood absorbed all of the oil and feels dry, apply another coat.

And with that, you’re done. Wooden spoons are a fun, relatively straightforward project that really impress. They’re excellent holiday gifts, and a good way to use up some of that scrap wood I know you have stacking up in various corners of your shop. So grant some wishes and help your friends and loved ones cook in style.

The post Make these DIY wooden kitchen utensils for your favorite cook appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

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Why you should build a swing for your chickens https://www.popsci.com/diy/chicken-swing-diy/ Thu, 01 Dec 2022 13:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=493504
A brown rooster perched on a DIY chicken swing inside a chicken coop yard.
This bird has become a legend in the coop. Helen Bradshaw

Your birds will absolutely love this project.

The post Why you should build a swing for your chickens appeared first on Popular Science.

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A brown rooster perched on a DIY chicken swing inside a chicken coop yard.
This bird has become a legend in the coop. Helen Bradshaw

As much fun as eating cornmeal and screaming endlessly is, chickens can get bored too. Don’t laugh: bored chickens can cause more havoc than you might think. “They can start to develop abnormal behavior such as feather-pecking other birds excessively,” says Dana Campbell, an animal behavior scientist at Australia’s Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organization. You don’t want that in your coop.

Thankfully, providing enrichment for chickens is surprisingly easy, and can be as simple as adding a rustic wooden swing to their stagnant environment. This kind of structural enrichment has the added benefit of being incredibly entertaining to watch; you have not lived until you’ve seen a chicken turn a coop into a playground as it swings back and forth, clucking curiously. Plus, you can make one from materials you probably already have.

Stats

  • Time: 10 to 30 minutes
  • Material cost: $7 to $30
  • Difficulty: Easy

Tools

Materials

How to build a chicken swing

1. Find some branches. I gathered some branches that had already fallen off of trees and cut down an invasive Chinese tallow for others. Chickens can hang onto sticks of varying sizes, but mine had a diameter of about 2 inches. I also cut my branches to about 1.5 feet in length to accommodate the size of my Swedish flower hens, but some beefier chicken breeds might need a little more room. You may not need to trim your branches at all, or may find it easier to snap them by hand.

2. Drill holes in the sticks. Where you put these holes also depends on how big your chickens are, but I made swings for several different breeds and drilled holes about an inch and a half from either end of each branch. You’ll want your drill bit to be slightly larger than your rope so it can slide through. I used a 9/32-inch bit for my swings.

A close-up of a drill bit in the chuck of a drill, going into a stick for the seat of the chicken swing.
Make sure you have a firm grip on the stick so the bit doesn’t slip. Helen Bradshaw

3. (Optional) Sand the branches. If there are any particularly splintery or uneven areas of your branches, you can sand them down so the chickens can get a better grip with their talons. In the wild, chickens often roost in trees, so there’s no need to sand the branches to be totally even. It might actually be more enriching to err on the side of natural instead of using perfectly smooth sticks.

4. Cut the string. The length of your rope will depend on where you’re hanging the swing from and how close to the ground you want it to be. Typically, chicken swings are hung no higher than 3.5 feet or so off the ground, but they can certainly be lower to accommodate your chickens’ ages, perching preferences, and familiarity with swings.

[Related: Eurasian jays show masterful intelligence in human psychology test]

Measure from the place you plan to hang your swing to how high above the ground you want it to be, then add a few inches so you’ll have plenty of room to tie the rope off securely.

5. (Optional) Add some beads. After you cut the rope, but before you attach it to the branch, you can slide some wooden beads on to give your chickens some extra enrichment—your birds may spin the beads or find them visually appealing. Even if you don’t have the most curious chickens, these swing accessories will also spice up your coop decor. Once the beads are on, tie a knot below them.

Eight colored beads (four on each string) on a DIY chicken swing.
It’s always nice to make a project look good, even if only chickens are going to see it. Helen Bradshaw

6. Thread the rope through the drilled holes. This is where a yarn needle can be particularly helpful, especially if you’re using a type of rope that has a tendency to bunch up, like jute. When the rope’s through the holes, tie a double knot securely at the base of one of the holes. Use a level to make sure the branch is even, then tie a knot underneath the other hole.

7. Hang the swing. I tied the top of my rope to the rafters in the coop, wrapping it multiple times and tying it tight with several knots. Since chickens don’t weigh much, this is plenty secure. But if you want extra strength, drill holes into a beam inside your coop, screw in a couple metal eye hooks, and tightly tie the rope to the hooks. Make sure the hooks are the same distance apart as the two holes in the branch. 

8. Let your birds get to swinging. It may take time for your chickens to try out their new swing, so don’t worry if your feathery friends don’t immediately appreciate your work. You can help them get used to it by hanging the swing closer to the ground at first and gradually moving it up as they get more comfortable. Gently placing your birds on the swing and rewarding them with tasty mealworm treats can help them adjust as well. And while you can certainly teach an old bird new tricks, your best chance of raising avid swingers is to introduce the birds to a swing when they’re young. This project can always be downsized from branches to twigs to get juveniles well on their way to being swinging chicken prodigies.

A black-and-white hen on a DIY chicken swing with wings outstretched.
Not all chickens are swinging prodigies. This hen is still working on mastering the art. Helen Bradshaw

The post Why you should build a swing for your chickens appeared first on Popular Science.

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No need to pass the potatoes—spin them with this DIY Lazy Susan https://www.popsci.com/diy/diy-lazy-susan-tabletop/ Sat, 19 Nov 2022 19:43:32 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=489054
A DIY Lazy Susan for a tabletop, on top of a dark wooden table. The Lazy Susan has a bunch of bananas and two white onions on it.
Ideally, you'd put plates of food on this homemade tabletop Lazy Susan, but maybe the family just needs quick access to bananas. Jean Levasseur

This project will literally revolutionize your family dinners.

The post No need to pass the potatoes—spin them with this DIY Lazy Susan appeared first on Popular Science.

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A DIY Lazy Susan for a tabletop, on top of a dark wooden table. The Lazy Susan has a bunch of bananas and two white onions on it.
Ideally, you'd put plates of food on this homemade tabletop Lazy Susan, but maybe the family just needs quick access to bananas. Jean Levasseur

A Lazy Susan, or turntable, can be a stylish and functional addition to your dining room or kitchen. Just imagine sitting down to a hearty holiday meal where everyone can access every dish without uncomfortable reaching or asking someone else to set down their fork and pass the potatoes. And if you build one yourself, you’ll have a conversation-starting centerpiece ready for every gathering

At its core, a Lazy Susan is just a circular cutting board on top of a smaller circular cutting board with turntable hardware sandwiched in between. The end result looks impressive, but don’t be intimidated—it’s a project anyone with moderate woodworking skill can handle. I built mine 18 inches in diameter from maple, with walnut accents, but there are numerous ways to customize yours. Maybe you want to use different types of wood, flip the boards so the edge or end grain is visible, or even burn designs into your piece. Whatever your personal aesthetic, you can find a way to make a Lazy Susan that feels unique to you or to the person you’re making it for.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a facemask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

  • Time: 6 to 8 hours
  • Material cost: $40 to $100
  • Difficulty: Moderate

Tools

Materials

How to build a DIY Lazy Susan

1. Cut the boards for the large and small Lazy Susan discs. For my 18- and 10-inch-diameter circles, I cut my maple board into four 19-inch lengths for the top and three 11-inch lengths for the bottom. Next, joint (or square) the boards so the two edges are parallel with one another and perpendicular to one face of the board. If you don’t own a jointer, you can do this on a table saw. 

We have a detailed guide on how to joint wood without a jointer, but I can summarize the basics. First, place a level alongside your table saw’s fence and press the more concave edge of the board against the level. Then adjust the saw fence so the blade will take a sliver off the other edge of the board, and push the board and level together to make the cut. This will create a straight edge that is perpendicular to the board’s bottom face. Next, flip the board around, keeping the same face down, and trim the other edge using the table saw fence like normal (without the level). Do this with all of the boards for the panels. 

2. Glue the longer lengths to form the top panel. Spread glue over the edges of each piece of wood and clamp them together in a roughly square shape, using a pair of clamps beneath the form. Then place two more clamps on top, about a third of the way in from each end, and tighten those. Having clamps on the top and bottom of will help keep the boards from twisting as the glue dries. If you want, you can add clamping cauls to ensure an even flatter glue-up.

Tighten the clamps until glue squeezes out of all the seams. If no glue comes out, you didn’t use enough. Wipe away as much of the glue squeeze-out as you can with a damp paper towel while the glue is still wet. This will make life easier when you sand the board later.

  • Pro tip: You can put thin pieces of a different kind of wood between the lengths to create a decorative, striped look. My Lazy Susan, as mentioned above, is made from light-colored maple with dark walnut accent stripes.

3. Glue the shorter lengths to form the bottom panel. All you have to do here is repeat the previous step with the smaller pieces of wood.

4. Sand or plane the two boards flat. Once the glue is dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions, it’s time to flatten the boards. They should be pretty flat already, but there will be some ridges and misalignments in the seams. The easiest way to get the job done is with a large planer, but not many people have access to a 20-inch-wide planer, myself included. Instead, an orbital sander and 60-grit sandpaper is an effective and DIY-friendly way to align those seams and remove any residual glue. You can also use a belt sander or hand plane.  

5. Draw your circles. It’s tempting to use the string method to draw a circle: drive a nail into the middle of the board, tie a piece of string around it, and tie a pencil to the string one radius away from the nail. And honestly, this is what I did first. Unfortunately the string flexed and the pencil tilted slightly as I drew my circle. Not much, but enough that my “circle” was about a quarter-inch shorter along one diameter then another. 

A better strategy is to use a long piece of flat wood instead of string. After sticking a nail roughly into the center of each board (make sure you don’t nail into the face you want to be the top of your Lazy Susan), drill a nail-sized hole at one end of a thin piece of scrap, then drill two more holes large enough for a pencil to poke through at the radiuses of the two circles (5 and 9 inches away from the center nail for me).

When the template is ready, slip the scrap over the nail in the bigger board and methodically spin that wood around to trace the bigger circle. Repeat this with the smaller board. The wood won’t flex or allow the pencil to move nearly as much as string, and you should end up with two near-perfect discs.

And, of course, if you have your own foolproof circle-sketching method, use that.

A tip for tracing a circle on wood: a nail in the center of a roughly circular board, holding a piece of wood in place, with a pencil in the other end, so it can be rotated around the central point.
If you’re more of a visual learner, this is how Step 5 works. Jean Levasseur

6. Cut out your circles. There are several ways to do this. The easiest is with a circle-cutting jig and a plunge router. If you have access to these, you can actually skip Step 5. But I don’t have either, so I used a jigsaw, a palm router, and an orbital sander. 

Start by cutting out one of the circles with the jigsaw, staying to the outside of the line. Once you’re done with the cut, trim to the line with the palm router and a straight-cut bit. Take your time with this so you don’t slip and cut into the circle. Finally, clean up all the edges with your random orbital sander and 60-grit sandpaper. If you don’t have a router, you can use the orbital sander to get to the line, but it may take longer to remove enough material.

  • Note: You may have noticed the bevel along the bottom of my top panel. Beveled edges look awesome, and I put them on all of my cutting boards, but beveling a circle seemed like a lot of work and I had no intention of doing so. Then my router caught a knot and tore a big chunk out of the top panel. To fix the chunk, I beveled the bottom, using my orbital sander with 60-grit sandpaper to create an approximately 45-degree bevel around the whole thing. It took a long time, and I don’t recommend it. But it looks great. That said, I probably won’t add a bevel to my next turntable unless I have to.

7. Pre-drill holes for the turntable hardware. The best drill bit to use for this step is one that’s smaller than the shaft of the screws included with your turntable hardware. Before you drill, center the turning hardware on the correct side of the board (the bottom of the top board and the top of the bottom one). 

[Related: Save space by building this simple cutting board rack inside any door]

The easiest and fastest way I found to center it was to draw two perpendicular diameters across each circle. Draw one through the original nail hole using a straightedge or level. Then use a speed square to position that straight-edge perpendicular to the first line and draw the second diameter.

Line up each of the screw holes in the turning hardware on those diameter lines. If there is a line visible in the middle of each hole, you’re centered. Mark the position of each of the pilot holes and drill them out.

  • Note: This method will only work if there are four screw holes that form a square. Any other configuration and you’ll need to center the hardware differently.

8. Drill an access hole in the bottom board. In order to actually attach the turning hardware, you’ll connect it first to the bottom board, then to the top. However, there’s not enough room between them to use a screwdriver or drill, so you’ll need to bore an access hole.

To find the right spot, lay the turning hardware in place on the bottom board. Then spin the piece of the turning hardware that attaches to the top board so the empty screw hole is over wood, not metal. Mark that position, then drill a ¾-inch hole through the bottom board. This will serve as an access hole so you can fasten the hardware to the top board. 

(Optional) 9. Route insets for the turning hardware. This isn’t strictly necessary, but will make it easier to install the hardware. While you’re marking for pilot holes, trace the outline of the hardware. Then, using a router and a straight cutting bit, route an inset the same depth as the thickness of the metal turning hardware. This inset will hold the hardware in place when you’re trying to install it, which will be a big help.

10. Sand both circles smooth. Sanding is the key to great-looking woodworking. At this point in the project, you’ve already sanded everything flat with 60-grit paper. Now use your orbital sander to move though the remaining grits: 80, 120, 150, and finally 220. I rarely see the point in going higher than 220-grit, and this project is no different. Higher grits can close the pores of the wood, making it harder for the oil finish to soak in, and 220-grit feels extremely smooth to the touch. There’s a diminishing return on quality above 220 that doesn’t seem worth the time. 

The only thing to be careful of is not to ruin the curve of the boards, which can be easy to do with an orbital sander. To avoid that, I sanded the edges by hand with sanding sponges.  

Once you’ve sanded to 220, you’ll need to raise the grain of the wood and sand again. When wood gets wet, the fibers absorb moisture and swell, creating a rough texture on even the best-sanded projects. To combat this, use a spray bottle to wet the wood after sanding with the 220-grit paper, let it dry, and lightly hand-sand with 220 again. The smooth texture will remain.

11. Apply finish to the top and bottom boards. I used two coats of butcher block conditioner, which is a mixture of mineral oil and beeswax that is easy to apply and food-safe. I used Howard’s because that’s available at my local hardware store, but any brand should be fine. 

Simply pour some of the oil onto the board and spread it around with either a lint-free rag or a plastic spreading tool until the wood is completely saturated (old driver’s licenses and credit cards work great for this). Allow the finish to soak in according to the manufacturer’s recommended timing, and then wipe off any excess or apply a second coat if the wood soaked it all in.

If you need something more permanent and durable, consider using wood bowl finish

12. Install the turning hardware. The very last step is to attach the turning hardware. This is easy, but the order matters. 

Screw the turning hardware to the bottom board first, using the pre-drilled pilot holes from Step 7. Then, flip the whole unit upside down and position the turning hardware on the top board. This is where the ¾-inch access hole you drilled in Step 8 comes into play. You should be able to turn that bottom board until the large hole is over one of the screw holes for the top board. Using a screwdriver or drill, drive in the first screw, then turn the bottom board to get to the next screw location.

This is faster and less frustrating with a magnetic screwdriver or drill bit, because it’s very easy to drop the screw in that small hole.

Now all you’ve got to do is decide what to serve on it first. Thanksgiving and other holiday meals are an obvious choice, given the array of dishes you’re likely to have on the table, but you should be able to find many uses for your homemade Lazy Susan. Tacos, for example, are always a crowd pleaser, because there are so many ingredients that your family will have to keep spinning to get to them all.  

The post No need to pass the potatoes—spin them with this DIY Lazy Susan appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

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Build a simple wall-mounted laundry rack to dry your delicates in style https://www.popsci.com/diy/diy-laundry-drying-rack/ Sun, 13 Nov 2022 14:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=486489
A DIY laundry drying rack mounted on a wall and in a folded-out position, ready to dry some clothes.
When your clothes are done drying, just fold this DIY drying rack up against the wall. Jean Levasseur

Magnets help this folding DIY contraption stay closed.

The post Build a simple wall-mounted laundry rack to dry your delicates in style appeared first on Popular Science.

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A DIY laundry drying rack mounted on a wall and in a folded-out position, ready to dry some clothes.
When your clothes are done drying, just fold this DIY drying rack up against the wall. Jean Levasseur

When you have a lot of clothes that don’t fare particularly well in the dryer, it can be hard to figure out where to hang your freshly washed bathing suits, gym clothes, delicate shirts, and of course, unmentionables. My family has been draping those damp garments from the wire shelf above the washer, but we’re sick of doing that. It’s ugly, and it doesn’t work all that well—the clothes fall into a pile or slip behind the machines half the time.

With space at a premium, our solution is a folding wall-mounted laundry rack with a small storage shelf on top. The contraption is basically a large frame with a smaller frame inside it on hinges. When needed, you can pull the inner frame out at an angle and hang your clothes to dry from a series of dowels. Once your clothes are dry, take them down, push the drying frame back into place, and it will stay there until you need it again.

This is a relatively straightforward build, though there are a lot of places where things can go wrong if you’re not careful. I was able to build mine from a mixture of poplar and pine I had lying around, but you can use just about any wood you want. If you’re planning to paint yours, I recommend poplar. It’s not as expensive as an oak or maple, but paints better than pine and stains pretty well, too.

At the time of publication, the laundry hanger has been up for about a month, and it’s already significantly improved both the look and function of our laundry room.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a facemask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

  • Time: 4 to 6 hours
  • Cost: $50 to $75
  • Difficulty: moderate

Tools

Materials

How to build a wall-mounted drying rack

1. Mill the lumber to rough dimensions. This is one of those projects where the better you mill your lumber, the better results you’ll get. Start by cutting your board down to rough length, about 1 inch longer than the final dimensions of each piece. You may be able to optimize your choice of wood differently, but I reached this point with one 29-inch board for the long sides of the outside frame, one 27-inch board for all sides of the inside frame, one 23-inch board for the remaining pieces of the outside frame, and a 25-inch board for the upper shelf.

If you aren’t sure of the next steps, I put together a full, detailed guide on how to properly mill and joint wood. The basics, though, are to joint one face and edge, plane the opposite face, and then cut the pieces down to their final width on your table saw. When you’re done, you should have nine perfectly milled boards: 

  • 2 (23-by-1.5-inch) boards for the top and bottom of the outside frame
  • 2 (29-by-1.5-inch) boards for the left and right sides of the outside frame
  • 2 (20-by-1-inch) boards for the top and bottom of the inside frame
  • 2 (27-by-1-inch) boards for the left and right sides of the inside frame
  • 1 (25-by-4-inch) board for the top shelf

2. Cut the miters. As part of this step, you’ll also trim the boards down to their final lengths. There are several ways to cut the 45-degree angles, and one of the most common is with a miter saw. Simply adjust the angle of your tool to 45 degrees, and trim the ends of each board to length. I, however, prefer to use my table saw and a crosscut sled, with the blade set to 45 degrees. For this to work, you’ll either need to set your blade to 45 degrees and cut a new blade channel in your existing crosscut sled, or build a second sled specifically for miters, which is what I did.

Before you start cutting, use a digital angle gauge to confirm that your blade is set to 45 degrees. It may not seem like much, but 44.8 degrees can leave some pretty big gaps between pieces, even if you do manage to force your frames square. 

Pay careful attention to the direction of the angles, too. You’ll have to flip each board around, not just slide it left and right, to make the second cut. If the ends of the board are parallel, you’ve messed up.

Once you have your miters done, dry-fit the frames together to make sure everything fits like you expect. 

  • Pro tip: Glue the outside frame together before cutting the miters for the inside frame. This will let you double-check the interior dimensions. In my case, I forgot to account for the wood I’d removed in milling, so the gap between the two frames would have been about a quarter-inch larger than I’d planned if I’d cut all the miters at the same time.  

3. Drill dowel holes in the inner frame. The dowels you’ll hang your clothes on attach to the inner frame. To keep the frame square and ensure the dowels stay parallel, the holes in both side pieces need to be perfectly aligned. The easiest way to do this is to drill them at the same time.

Use painter’s tape to secure the two long side pieces of the inner frame together, with the outside edge of each piece pressing against each other and the shortest edge of each board facing out. Then measure the spacing of the dowels. I spread mine 4 inches apart, and 3 inches from each end of the board. This spacing seems to work well for most clothes we dry.

[Related: How to wash your clothes without wearing them out]

Once the boards are taped and the hole locations marked, use a ⅜-inch bit to drill through both boards. The best tool for this is a drill press. Put one of the short edges down on the press table, with the other hole facing up to drill out the holes. If you don’t have a drill press, you can use a regular drill, but make sure you are drilling straight through the boards, not at an angle. You can make a simple jig to help the alignment.

4. Glue up the frames. The easiest way I’ve found to do this is to use corner clamps. Spread a thin layer of glue onto each mitered end, then clamp the two pieces together. Adjust the wood inside the clamp until the outer corners are flush and the seam is tight. This method also makes it easier to install the dowels into the inner frame before gluing it up.

If you don’t have corner clamps, you can use painter’s tape. Lay out the pieces of each frame with the outer edges facing up and the connecting ends touching in a long line. Then stretch a 2-to-3-inch piece of painter’s tape across each joint. Flip all four boards over at the same time so the outer edges are facing down and the open miter joints face up. Spread glue inside each miter joint.

Now, roll the entire line up, starting at one edge, so all four boards form a square. Secure the final joint with painter’s tape. If you’d like to see how this works in practice, I used this tape method to glue up the pieces of a coffin-shaped wedding card box.

For added stability, use a brad nailer to drive two nails into each joint. 

  • Pro tip: Before gluing, put painter’s tape along the inside corner of each board, right next to the angle of the miter. This will catch the glue that squeezes out when the two boards come together, making sanding and cleanup faster and easier. 

5. Install the dowels in the inner frame. If you haven’t already, cut and install the dowels to fit the inner frame. I cut mine about an inch longer than they needed to be, so they stick out the sides half an inch. Smear some glue along each end of the dowels, and push them through the holes.

Clean up any glue squeeze-out with a damp paper towel. 

Again, for stability, drive a single brad nail through the back of the frame and into the dowel.  

Once the dowels are secure and the glue is dry, use a flush-cut saw to trim all the dowels even with the outer edge of the frame.  

6. Install top and bottom nailer strips on the outer frame. Right now, there’s no way to actually secure the frame to the wall. To solve this problem, install a nailer strip at the top and bottom of the outer frame.  

Cut two strips of ¼-inch plywood that are the same length as the outer frame is wide. Mine were 3 inches wide and 22 inches long. Glue and brad nail these strips to the back of the outer frame, flush with the top and bottom. There should be about 2 inches of nailer strip visible inside the frame.

(Optional) 7. Route any decorative trim elements. There’s absolutely nothing wrong with leaving your frames square, with right angles everywhere. However, if you would like to get away from the blocky look, now is the time to add some decorative elements. I chose to use a router with a roundover bit on the inside edge of the outer frame. This softened the profile a bit and gave the inner frame a nice, gradual inward slope. 

(Optional) 8. Install the shelf on the outer frame. If you want a shelf on top of your laundry hanger, install that now. Glue and brad nail the shelf to the top of the frame. Use clamps to secure it until the glue dries. 

9. Sand everything smooth. Time to pay the sandman. Sanding is the difference between a professional-looking product and one marred by saw marks and blemishes. Trust me, you’ll never unsee them. Use an orbital sander for any flat surfaces and hand-sand the decorative trim as needed. Start with 120-grit paper, and then move to 150- and 220-grit to finish.

Don’t forget to sand the dowels.  

10. Drill holes for the hinges. I’m not going to lie—I struggle with hinges. They always wind up slightly out of alignment, so if anyone has a foolproof way they do it, please let me know.

[Related: Build your own door and ascend to a higher level of DIY]

Absent that pro tip, first tape the hinges into position on the bottom of the inner frame. Then drill pilot holes for each hinge through the tape, so you can see where the hinge aligns into one frame.

Then position the frame inside the outer frame. Trace the edges and front of each hinge onto the outer frame, remove the hinge from the inner frame, lay it in place on the outer frame, and drill the pilot holes there.  

This way is fairly accurate, and I’ll keep doing it that way until I find a better method.  

11. Install the magnets. These magnets will hold the inner frame in the upright position when it’s closed. There are, of course, other options for latching it in place; I like magnets because they aren’t particularly visible and are simple to use.  

Drill a shallow hole in the top two corners of the back of the inner frame. Then drill a matching shallow hole in the top nail strip. When the inner frame is closed, the two holes should line up.

A shallow hole in a piece of wood on a DIY laundry drying rack, where a magnet will eventually go to hold the folding inner frame closed.
A shallow hole is all you need to lay the magnet in place. Jean Levasseur

Finally, use super glue to secure the magnets inside those holes, making sure the attracting sides are facing one another when everything is closed.  

12. Apply your finish. Whatever finish you choose, put it on according to the manufacturer’s instructions. I chose to use white spray paint, which took two full coats and then a third touch-up coat.

13. Hang the rack on your wall. Install the outer frame first. Find and mark the studs in your wall and position the frame against them. Use a pencil to lightly mark where they go on the nailer strips, and then drill screw holes with a countersink bit. Next, screw the outer frame to the wall. If you only have one stud that will fall behind the frame, use a drywall anchor and one stud. Make sure you hit one stud, even if that means the rack has to go in a less-than-ideal location.  

Once the outer frame is up, install the inner one. Ideally, this is a two-person job. First, install the hinges into the bottom of the inner frame. Then, one person should hold the inner frame on the bottom lip of the outer frame so the hinges line up with the pre-drilled holes. The second person should screw the hinges into place.

If your inner frame is slightly out of alignment, loosen the screws on one hinge and shim it with thin pieces of scrap wood. Then tighten the hinge back down onto the shims. This will push the top of the inner frame away from the hinge that you shimmed; if you shim the left hinge, the frame will lean to the right.

You can install the inner frame before hanging the outer frame, but I thought it would be harder to attach it to the wall around the dowels than to install the hinges later. However, if you have to install this alone, it will likely be easier to install the inner frame before hanging.  

14. Cut and attach the chain. Finally, decide how far you want the laundry hanger to fold out into the room. Cut your chain with wire cutters to match that. The chain should run from the inside upper corner of the outer frame to the inside upper corner of the inner frame. Screw hooks into the appropriate locations, making sure that neither the hooks nor chains interfere with opening or closing the frame. If there’s no location where the hooks don’t get in the way, you can use very small screws instead.

Now it’s just time to wash some laundry, hang a few pieces up, and watch them dry. Well, maybe not watch. Go away and build something else while they dry. But then come back later and enjoy the fact that your bathing suit is, in fact, dry.

The post Build a simple wall-mounted laundry rack to dry your delicates in style appeared first on Popular Science.

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Create something new before Black Friday with these 3D printer deals on Amazon https://www.popsci.com/gear/early-black-friday-3d-printer-deals/ Wed, 09 Nov 2022 21:55:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=485759
A lineup of 3D printers on a blue and white background
Amanda Reed

The world's your oyster, or whatever you want to see (sea?), with a 3D printer—and there's a wave of savings with early Black Friday deals.

The post Create something new before Black Friday with these 3D printer deals on Amazon appeared first on Popular Science.

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A lineup of 3D printers on a blue and white background
Amanda Reed

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Sometimes, the best gifts are the ones you craft from the heart. Make gifts your friends and family will appreciate—and save some cash while you’re at it—with these early Black Friday 3D printer deals on Amazon. Even if you’re not a veteran maker, you can currently score a solid deal on a printer that fits your skillset or your ambitions to make your own doodads.

ANYCUBIC

SEE IT

Bring the makerspace into the comfort of your own home with this ANYCUBIC Kobra Go, on sale for $199.99, 38% off its $319.99 list price. One-touch leveling and printing make it easy to operate and great for those entering the world of 3D printing. The steel printing platform resists drops and abrasions while allowing you to remove your projects easily by simply bending the steel. Your project will be done way before the New Year thanks to this 3D printer’s 60-100 millimeters per second print speed. And, you can print a soccer ball-sized project thanks to the printer’s high print volume.

If you want to get your filament collection started, check out this filament pack, which boasts 22 colors for less than $10. If you’re looking for something a bit more hands-on (literally), this SCRIB3D 3D printer pen is on sale for $39.99, its lowest price in 30 days.

Here are more 3D printers on sale right now on Amazon:

The post Create something new before Black Friday with these 3D printer deals on Amazon appeared first on Popular Science.

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This is what polka music sounds like on an accordion of two Commodore 64 computers https://www.popsci.com/technology/commodore-64-computer-accordion/ Tue, 08 Nov 2022 19:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=485085
Swedish engineer Linus Åkesson playing homemade accordion made of two Commodore 64 computers and floppy disks
Play that funky music. YouTube

A Swedish engineer's 'Commodordion 64' looks as hard to play as it is to announce.

The post This is what polka music sounds like on an accordion of two Commodore 64 computers appeared first on Popular Science.

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Swedish engineer Linus Åkesson playing homemade accordion made of two Commodore 64 computers and floppy disks
Play that funky music. YouTube

There are few pieces of computer history more iconic and, at one time, ubiquitous as the Commodore 64. Produced between 1982 and 1994, the C64 still holds the Guinness World Record for all-time bestselling desktop computer—but it’s probably pretty safe to say that of the roughly 12.5 million units sold, only two of them were subsequently programmed to become an adorable, 8-bit “accordion.”

[Related: How technology can help you learn a musical instrument.]

Readers, please behold the “Commodordion,” a ridiculous, adorable musical contraption built using two C64 keyboards, custom software and wiring, as well as a bellows painstakingly constructed from taped-together floppy disks. First unveiled in late October by Linus Åkesson, a Swedish software engineer, YouTuber, and, as his video showcases, accomplished musician, the Commodordion looks predictably as difficult to play as the portmanteau is to pronounce. Åkesson, however, makes the whole thing look relatively simple, demonstrating his wonderful setup through an extremely impressive rendition of Scott Joplin‘s “Maple Town Rag” from 1899.

[Related: Best speakers for music of 2022.]

As Åkesson explains in his 11-minute video, the Commodordion intentionally builds off of his previous projects, the Sixtyforgan and Qwertuoso, and employs a custom-made mixer circuit board combining audio signals from both C64 keyboard rigs. The airflow through a hole in the device’s floppy disk bellows feeds into a mounted microphone, which then translates the noise into an audio envelope and the ensuing sound is emitted through an external speaker. The music software itself was also designed by Åkesson using a Commodore Datasette emulator board.

Unfortunately, as Åkesson and Ars Technica‘s writeup both note, C64 keyboards weren’t exactly designed to be held, much less typed upon vertically. As such, the whole contraption is pretty ergonomically rough on a player’s wrists, hands, and arms. “This rather undermines the potential for the Commodordion as a viable musical instrument,” Åkesson writes on his website, making it unlikely we’ll ever participate in a Commodordian polka party.

The post This is what polka music sounds like on an accordion of two Commodore 64 computers appeared first on Popular Science.

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Defy gravity by building these floating shelves https://www.popsci.com/diy/diy-floating-shelves/ Sat, 05 Nov 2022 17:32:45 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=484629
A DIY floating shelf in a home with an Instant Pot and some books on it.
These shelves are sturdy, too. Jean Levasseur

A straightforward home improvement project that looks more difficult than it is.

The post Defy gravity by building these floating shelves appeared first on Popular Science.

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A DIY floating shelf in a home with an Instant Pot and some books on it.
These shelves are sturdy, too. Jean Levasseur

Pretty much everybody has shelves in their home. But not everybody has shelves that make their friends stop, step back, and say, “Now, wait one minute. How on Earth are those things attached to the wall?”

Though they may seem like magic, so-called floating shelves are a straightforward woodworking project—the trick is hiding the hanging brackets inside the wood. There are numerous ways to make floating shelves, but the one I tackled in my house features a piece of 2-by-12 construction lumber and some dowels.

No part of the build is particularly complicated, but this project does have some steps that require precision. Accuracy here is important for strength, but also helps hide the wall-mounting method. Observant guests might be able to see the seam in the shelf that spoils the illusion, but it’s pretty well concealed.  

So the next time you need shelves, consider trying to make them float. Here’s the spell.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a facemask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

  • Time: 2 to 4 hours
  • Cost: $50 to $80
  • Difficulty: Moderate

Tools

Materials

How to build floating shelves

1. Mill your lumber to size. Construction-grade wood is meant to be hidden inside walls and in ceilings, so it doesn’t matter what it looks like. It generally needs to be cleaned up before you build a visible project out of it. We have a full guide on how to properly mill wood, but the basic steps are simple.  

First, flatten one face. If you have access to a large enough jointer, you can use that. If you don’t, you’ll need to use a flattening sled on your planer or grab a hand plane to flatten one side. I used a hand plane because the board I bought was already pretty close to flat and it was a good opportunity to practice. 

Once one side is flat, joint one edge, either on your jointer or using a jointer sled on your table saw. From there, run the board through your planer to flatten the second face, and trim the remaining rough edge to width on your table saw. Finally, cut the two ends to length on your miter saw.  

The final dimensions of each of my shelves was 10.5 inches deep, 4 feet long, and about 1 ⅜ inches thick.

2. Measure where the studs will fall on the back of each shelf. This step will save you headaches later. Locate the studs in the wall with a stud-finder (or whatever method you prefer). Then figure out where exactly you want each shelf and mark the location of the intersecting studs on the back of each board. Knowing where the studs are will help in two ways. First, it’ll be easier to pre-drill holes for your lag bolts later. Second, when you’re drilling the holes for the support dowels in Step 3, you can space them out so they won’t interfere with the bolts.  

While marking for the studs, use a center line marker to draw a line along the back of each shelf. You’ll use this as a reference for the dowel and lag bolt holes later on.

3. Measure for the support dowel holes. These floating shelves are held up by dowels buried inside the wood. You’ll have to drill holes for these dowels. 

On my 4-foot shelves, I spaced the five dowel holes out about evenly on the back of each shelf, starting about 3 inches from each end and marking each location on the center line drawn in Step 2. These holes don’t have to be perfectly spaced out, so adjust as necessary to stay at least 2 inches away from the stud marks. This will make installing the shelves easier because the dowels won’t be in the way. 

4. Drill the dowel holes. The most important thing when drilling these holes is to keep them straight and level. I recommend building a jig to keep the drill bit perpendicular to the back of each board. That said, I did not build a jig. Instead, I set my speed square on the top of the shelf directly above where I wanted the hole, overhanging the back by about 3 inches. Then I used my combination square to set it perpendicular to the board. The speed square served as a visual reference to keep the auger bit straight. It worked, but I feel like there was too much room for error. If I ever make these again, I’ll build a jig.  

Drill the holes about three quarters of the way through the board. On my shelves, that meant about 8 inches. If your bit won’t reach that full depth, you’ll have an opportunity to deepen the holes later.

(Optional) 5. Shape the edges of your boards. If you want to shape the edges of your shelves, now is the time to do it. A simple option is to cut a bevel on the bottom of each shelf with your table saw, which is what I did. I chose this because the bevel gives the illusion that the shelves are thinner than they really are.

[Related: The surprising woodworking tools you already have around the house]

6. Sand everything smooth. As with most woodworking projects, sanding is the first step to a beautiful finish. Start with 120-grit sandpaper in your random orbital sander, then move to 150-, 180-, and finally 220-grit, which is what most finishes suggest you do. However, double-check the finish you’re planning to use to see if they have different sanding requirements, and follow those instructions. 

  • Pro tip: Scribble lightly with a pencil all over the top and bottom faces of your boards before sanding. As you sand, the pencil marks will disappear. This will help you see where you have and haven’t sanded, which can be easy to lose track of on large projects like this.

7. Cut the back of each board off. A floating shelf is really two pieces: the hanging board with dowels sticking out of it that attaches to the wall, and the shelf board that slides onto those dowels. To make the hanging board, use your table saw to cut the back 2.5 inches off of each board. The actual amount you remove can change depending on the size of shelf that you’re building. Mine were wide, somewhat heavy shelves, so I wanted beefier hanging boards.  

Take your time with this cut—you want it as even as possible so the two pieces fit back together seamlessly.  

(Optional) 8. Deepen your dowel holes. If you need to deepen the dowel holes from Step 4, now is the time. The existing hole should keep the drill bit straight now, so you won’t need to worry about any kind of guide or jig. 

  • Caution: Be careful not to drill out through the front of the shelf. You can put a piece of painter’s tape on your drill bit to give yourself a visual reminder of the proper depth.

9. Drill pilot holes. If you’re confident in your measurements from Step 2, you can drill pilot holes for your lag bolts into each hanger board now. Otherwise, you can wait until you actually install the shelves. I used a 5/16-inch bit for the pilot holes, and a ¾-inch Forstner bit to countersink space for the bolt heads.

Also drill a small pilot hole for a single wood screw with a 5/32-inch drill bit in the bottom of each shelf board, directly into one of the middle dowel holes. 

10. Cut your dowels to length. First, measure the depth of your dowel holes. I did this by sticking a small scrap of wood into each hole and marking where it protruded. Then I measured that distance and subtracted a quarter of an inch. Subtracting a little bit of length will make your dowels shorter and add some room inside the hole to ensure you can push the two boards tight together.  

Then cut the dowels to length. You can do this with a crosscut sled on your table saw or with a hand saw.

  • Caution: I do not recommend cutting wood this small on a miter saw. Kickback from cutting small stock with my miter saw is the only time I’ve needed stitches from woodworking, so I avoid doing it now.

11. Sand the dowels to fit. In a perfect world, all ¾-inch dowels would be the same size and you wouldn’t need to sand them down. We do not live in a perfect world. One of mine slid easily into the ¾-inch holes. The other didn’t fit at all.

If your dowels don’t slide into the hole, you’ll need to make them fit. If you have access to a lathe or a drill with a chuck big enough to hold your dowels, this is easy. Simply attach the dowel to the tool, spin it up, and rub sandpaper against the dowel as it turns. Don’t overdo it—test-fit regularly until the dowel slides in without much force, but holds snuggly in place with friction.

Otherwise, sand them down by hand with 60- or 80-grit sandpaper until they fit. I’ll warn you—this is the worst woodworking task I’ve ever undertaken. And the numerous blisters on both my hands recommend that you wear gloves while you do so. Or better yet, have the foresight to find dowels that already fit. 

  • Pro tip: Now that I’m older and wiser, I’d recommend going to the hardware store with a scrap board you’ve drilled a ¾-inch hole in. Test-fit the dowels to find ones that slide into the hole as they are. This will save you a ton of time.

12. Glue the dowels into each hanging board. Once the dowels are the right size, glue them in place. Have rags or paper towels on hand because this is messy. Smear a thin layer of wood glue on the bottom 2 inches of a dowel, add a few drops of glue into the hole in the hanging board, and push the dowel in from the front (the face that will touch the shelf board) until it’s flush with the back of the hanging board (the face that will touch the wall). Immediately wipe all of the glue away. Any glue on the shelf or dowels will interfere with the fit of the shelf board.  

  • Pro tip: I’ll admit, I didn’t come up with this tip—that honor goes to my wife. Slide the shelf board part-way onto the dowels while they’re drying to help hold them at the angles you want them. This will make installing it later easier. We had some trouble after the glue had dried because one of the dowels had moved slightly in its hole.  

13. Stain and finish the shelves. Once the dowels are dry, finish them to your liking. I used Minwax Natural Oak stain to match another piece of furniture we have in the room. You can use a rag or brush to apply stain, but I prefer staining pads. They’re faster and cleaner than any other method I’ve tried.

Once the stain is dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions, apply your chosen finish. My preference is spray-on polyurethane because it’s quick and easy. I applied three coats to the bottom and sides of each shelf, and five coats to the top, because that’s where the wear and tear will happen.

14. Install the shelves. Ideally, this is a two person job. If you haven’t drilled pilot holes in the hanger board for the lag bolts yet, measure and do so now. Once the pilot holes are done, have one person hold the hanger board in place, using a level to get it straight. Then have the second person drill through those pilot holes into the studs in the wall. 

[Related: Build a floating key organizer cabinet you’ll love coming home to]

Once the holes are drilled, screw the lag bolts into the studs using a 9/16-inch socket on your drill.  

When the hanger board is secure, slide the shelf board over the dowels. Again, this is easier with two people, one working on each side of the shelf.  Wiggle the dowels as needed to get them lined up with the holes, and slide the shelf board into place. We had to sand some dowels down even more to get them all to fit. 

Finally, install the small wood screw into the pilot hole you drilled in Step 9. While the dowels should hold the shelf board in place with only friction, this is a simple safety feature to prevent the shelf from sliding apart.

And you’re done. Load your shelves up with whatever you need to store, and be prepared to amaze your friends with your magical shelving powers.

The post Defy gravity by building these floating shelves appeared first on Popular Science.

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Make wooden Jack-o’-lanterns you can reuse for many happy Halloweens https://www.popsci.com/diy/diy-wooden-jack-o-lantern/ Fri, 21 Oct 2022 16:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=479770
three jack-o'-lanterns on stoop
Reusable jack-o'-lanterns that won't rot—groundbreaking. Jean Levasseur

These DIY jack-o'-lantern boxes are creepy, versatile, and simple.

The post Make wooden Jack-o’-lanterns you can reuse for many happy Halloweens appeared first on Popular Science.

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three jack-o'-lanterns on stoop
Reusable jack-o'-lanterns that won't rot—groundbreaking. Jean Levasseur

‘Tis the season for spooky decor. And if there’s one ornament that screams that Halloween season is here, it’s a jack-o’-lantern. Unfortunately, many animals find pumpkins delicious, and if by the end of the season, yours has not turned into a rodent’s dinner, it will at least be rotten and destroyed. 

To avoid the stench of a decomposing piece of fruit on my porch, this year I made jack-o’-lanterns out of wood. This is a relatively straightforward build that still provides plenty of opportunities to flex your creativity. 

And regardless of the age and dexterity of the people living with you at home, you can make this project a family affair—I built three in my first batch, and had each of my kids and my wife design the faces. My children are only seven and I don’t trust them with a jigsaw yet, but they still helped assemble the boxes and tops. We also got to tromp through the woods together searching for the perfect stick to make the stems from. 

There’s also no reason these boxes have to be limited to Halloween. Carve whatever symbols speak to your favorite seasons or holidays, and you’ll have decorations to keep your home festive all year round. 

Stats

Time: 2 to 4 hours

Cost: $15 to $30

Difficulty: Intermediate

Instructions

1. Cut your boards to size. Normally, woodworking projects start with fully milling the wood, but sometimes, precision milling isn’t necessary. In this case, as long as the boards are reasonably flat, you can use them for this project, making this the perfect opportunity to reuse some of those scraps you may have lying around your working area. 

All I did to trim my boards was joint the long edges down to size on my table saw. Then I squared up and trimmed the ends to length using my crosscut sled. This process was more than adequate for creating a nice, tight box. You’ll be able to hide any gaps later with a coat of paint.

These are the size boards I cut, but you can adjust these measurements to match your design and whatever wood you have on hand. 

  • 3 (5-inch by 12-inch) for the front and two sides
  • 1 (5-inch by 9-inch) for the back
  • 1 (7-inch by 6-inch) for the base
  • 1 (8-inch by 7-inch) for the top-base
  • 1 (6-inch by 5-inch for the top-top

Pro tip: If you’re buying your wood, take your time at the store to sort through the lumber and find the flattest boards. Instead of just looking at it straight on, look down the full length of the board on all four sides, but particularly along each long edge. This is the best way to see the waves and warps. Spending 10 minutes searching for the best boards can save you a lot of headaches later on.

[Related: 3 Halloween costumes you can make with reused masks]

2. (Optional) Carve the face. If you’re working with a scroll saw, you should draw, carve, and finish the face of your jack-o’-lantern on the front panel before you proceed. You can find more directions on how to do so in steps 6 and 7.

 If you’ll be using a jigsaw for this, you can skip this and continue to step 3. 

3. Glue the pieces together to form a box. Assemble the four sides of the box by smearing wood glue on one long edge of the front board, and pressing one of the two side boards against it. Make sure the edge is flush with the face. Drive brad nails through the sideboard into the edge of the front board to hold the two together while the glue dries. Then repeat the process with the other side. 

Projects photo
These three simple boxes will turn into spooky jack-o’-lanterns.

If you don’t have a brad nailer, you can use clamps for this step. The nailer is just faster, particularly if you’re making more than one box at a time. 

Continue by installing the back of the box in the same way. This board is shorter than the others to create an opening where you can slip the tea light into the box when it’s fully assembled, so you’ll need to position this board at the top of the box, not the bottom. If you haven’t carved your design yet, the top and bottom probably don’t matter at this point in the process. If you have, make sure the bottom of your design aligns with the tea light opening. 

4. Assemble the tops. The top is very basic. Glue the 6- by 5-inch board flat on top of the 8- by 7-inch board, roughly centered. This creates a square top hat effect. Clamp or brad nail the two boards together while the glue dries. 

Continue by drilling a small pilot hole in the center of the assembled piece. This is where you will screw the stem of the hat or the eye bolt to hang it. 

5. Sand, sand, and then sand some more. Once the glue has dried, it’s time to sand. I use 120-grit sandpaper on my orbital sander. The priority is to flush the edges with the faces to hide some of the seams. This also helps make cutting the face with a jigsaw easier, as the saw won’t get hung up on the lips. 

I didn’t try to remove any pits, scratches, or imperfections in the wood, for two reasons. First, you’ll be painting your box bright orange which will hide a lot of those imperfections. Second, I’m aiming for a weathered look, which means holes, marks, and scratches fit the aesthetic beautifully. If you’re aiming for a more polished, pristine look, then by all means—keep sanding. 

6. Carve the face. I used a jigsaw to carve out the face, and the box shape created a stable platform for me to cut on that was deep enough for the saw blade to move up and down in. 

If I’d done it before assembling the box, I would have had to find (or build) a place to cut while clamping the board down to my bench, which seemed like a lot of unnecessary effort. 

Projects photo
The holes make it easier to carve the faces into the jack-o’-lantern.

The process with a jigsaw is pretty easy and took about 10 minutes. First, draw your design on the front of the box. Make sure that the face is oriented so the opening in the back panel is at the bottom.

Next, drill a series of holes in the design large enough for the saw blade to fit into. A 3/8-inch drill bit worked for my blades. The placement of these holes can make the difference between an easy path for your saw and a hard one. Put one hole in each corner of the design elements (eyes, nose, mouth, at the tips of teeth), so that you can cut from hole to hole along the line, and then back the other way as needed. This will allow you to make longer, smoother cuts, and reduces or eliminates the need to cut yourself space to turn around in, which leaves ugly, jagged edges behind. 

7. File and sand the inside of the cutouts. No matter how careful you are, jigsaws almost always leave behind some jagged edges. Sand these down as smooth as you want to match the aesthetic you’re going for. 

Because many of the face features are relatively small or oddly shaped holes, I found sandpaper hard to use. Instead, I used a variety of files to get into all of the nooks and crannies. A round-back file was particularly useful. 

When I’d gotten most of the features smooth with the files, I went back over it one more time with a piece of 120-grit sandpaper wrapped around a small scrap of wood. This couldn’t get everywhere but did a decent job. I also used this to round over the sharp edges of the holes. 

8. Paint it like a pumpkin. You can paint your jack-o’-lanterns using whatever colors, techniques, or patterns you like. But If you want to replicate the weathered, rustic look of the pumpkins in the photos, you’ll have to go through a two-step process. 

Projects photo
The black base will give the jack-o’-lantern a weathered look.

Start by painting everything black—top, box, and base. I used regular black spray paint for this, but use whatever you have on hand or that you’re comfortable with. Then, paint over that black foundation with several light coats of glossy orange. I wanted the top and base to remain black, so I applied the new coats of paint to the box only. By doing light coats, the black underlayer shows through. I kept adding new coats until the vast majority of the box was orange, but there were still some specks of black, as though the paint had started to fade and discolor over time. It took about three coats of orange to achieve the look that I was going for. 

9. Pumpkins, assemble! Now it’s time to put everything together. The first step is to screw the stems to the top. My lanterns are designed to sit on stairs, so I used a 2-inch long piece of branch that my kids chose from a tree in my backyard as the stem. If you’re planning to hang the lantern, you can also use a dowel, or install an eye bolt. 

[Related: Five science tricks to scare up a better Halloween costume]

Then it’s just a matter of using wood glue to attach the top and bottom to the box. However, this was slightly tricky to clamp, so I used gravity and cyanoacrylates (CA) glue instead—a strong, fast-acting glue that bonds well to a wide variety of surfaces. A few dabs of CA glue at each corner kept the top from sliding. To add some clamping pressure, I just placed some heavy objects on the tops of the lanterns—screw boxes, my drill, a container of wall repair spackle, and some other random items. A few hours later, the combination made for a perfectly adequate glue-up. 

10. Light it up. The last step is to slip a flickering tea light inside the box through the opening in the back, flip it on, and then turn the lights off. The result should be a spooky, glowing Halloween decoration you can use inside or out. 

Projects photo
Happy Halloween!

The post Make wooden Jack-o’-lanterns you can reuse for many happy Halloweens appeared first on Popular Science.

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Build a beautiful wedding card box shaped like a coffin for some spooky storage https://www.popsci.com/diy/diy-goth-inspired-coffin-box/ Sun, 16 Oct 2022 13:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=477357
coffin shaped wooden wedding card box on table
You too can make this beautiful and goth-y coffin-shaped box. Jean Levasseur

As a fancy upgrade, line it with velvet.

The post Build a beautiful wedding card box shaped like a coffin for some spooky storage appeared first on Popular Science.

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coffin shaped wooden wedding card box on table
You too can make this beautiful and goth-y coffin-shaped box. Jean Levasseur

An old friend from high school wanted a custom wedding card box. But hers had a twist—she was getting married on Halloween, so she wanted it to be in the shape of a coffin. As a woodworker, I’ve made boxes before, but never one shaped like a coffin. It presented some unique challenges and techniques I’d never used before, so I took it on. 

The resulting coffin can easily be used as a wedding card box, jewelry storage, or even a creepy decoration for Halloween. It’s stained dark, like the smears of chocolate on my kids’ faces at the end of the night, and lined with red velvet. 

Stats

Time: 6 to 8 hours

Cost: $50 to $100

Difficulty: moderate

Materials

For the box

Instructions

1. Design the box. You can draw it on paper, but I designed mine with the free version of Sketchup, a computer-aided design (CAD) software. The trick with this project is making the box big enough to hold a 6-by-8-inch card while maintaining the relative proportions of a coffin. 

  • Pro tip: By designing in Sketchup, you’ll not only have a to-scale, adjustable rendering of your box before you build anything, but the software will provide all of the lengths and angles. This helps writers like me avoid trying to remember trigonometry. 

2. Cut the wood down to size. If you bought wood that’s already the right thickness, cut it to width and rough length (about 1 to 2 inches longer than you need). I did both of these with my table saw—a regular rip cut for the width, and then I used a crosscut sled to cut to length. This approach gives me the most control and precision with my cuts. You can also easily do this with a miter saw. I used reclaimed wood, so I also used my jointer and planer to fully square and dimension the lumber.

[Related: These DIY hanging plant shelves will make your home feel like a forest canopy]

3. Calculate the miter angles. Once the box sides are cut to size, you’ll need to start working on joining them together. The angles you cut on each piece of wood will not be the actual final angle of the joint. They will be half that. When you put the two sides together, they will combine to form the full, finished angle.

That’s not the end of the math, either. These half angles are measured from 0 degrees, but your table and miter saws measure from 90 degrees. So you’ll need to subtract the half-angle from 90 to find the actual cut angle. 

Here’s an example: One of my angles needed to be 101 total degrees. I halved that to 50.5. From there, I subtracted 50.5 from 90 to find the 39.5-degree cut angle to set my table saw to. If you have a magnetic angle gauge, you can attach it to your blade to maximize your precision.  

4. Cut the miters. I used my table saw for this as well, with a piece of flat wood clamped to my miter gauge. If you’d prefer to use a miter saw, you can. 

I started by cutting one side of the board on an angle, then cutting the other at the final length. Sneak up on your final length—don’t try to hit it on your first try. It’s better to leave it a hair too long than too short. When all of your pieces are cut, dry fit them to make sure the shape is correct.

  • Tip: Be vigilant about tracking and labeling which piece is which, and what edges go together. I label every joint on the box alphabetically, and cut all the same angles at the same time. It’s easy to lose track of the order if you don’t label and set the saw blade differently if you go back and forth between angles. 

5. Prepare to glue. Gluing miter joints can be tricky, particularly if you’re making an odd-shaped box. Painter’s tape can help. 

Lay all of your pieces end-to-end on a sheet of plastic or other glue-friendly material like paper with the inside faces down. Quadruple-check that all the pieces are in the correct order and that bottoms and tops are aligned. There’s nothing worse than gluing up a complex box and then realizing one of your sides is backwards… ask me how I know.

Use about 4 inches of painter’s tape on the outside faces of the boards to secure each board to its partner, with the edges of the miters just touching. It’s important to keep them in a perfectly straight line. Stretch the tape just a bit as you adhere it. 

  • Pro tip: Place another piece of tape along each side of the angle valley (but not in the valley) to catch the glue squeeze-out. This will make cleaning up and sanding later much, much easier.

6. It’s time to glue. Once all the pieces are taped together and you’ve checked (yes, again) that they’re straight and in the right order, flip the whole unit over so the inside faces are up. Squeeze wood glue into each angle valley and spread it with a scrap of wood or your finger, so it coats the entire angle. Then fold the entire unit into the coffin shape, and glue and secure the final joint with one last piece of tape. Double-check that all of your joints are tight and secure, and add more tape as needed. 

7. Remove the tape. Once the glue has dried—check the manufacturer’s instructions for how long that will take—strip off all the tape and confirm that everything adhered properly. Then remove the glue squeeze-out with a chisel and an orbital sander with 80- or 120-grit sandpaper.

8. Cut the box top and base. The easiest way to make these pieces is to trace the box onto the wood you’re planning to use. You can just trace the outside if you’re planning to keep a flat base, or the outside and the inside if you’re planning to do an inset base—more on what that means later.

Use the tool you’re most comfortable with, like a circular saw, jigsaw, band saw, or something else. I personally used the Dremel Ultra Saw. Cut to the outside of your traced line—you can always trim the top and base down a bit with your sander or a flush trim bit in your router, but you can’t add wood back on.

9. (Optional) Trace the box walls. If you’re planning to install a fabric liner later on, trace the inside of the box onto your poster board now before attaching the top and bottom.  

10. Prepare to finish the box. At this point, you can simply glue your box sides onto the base, screw the top on with hinges, and call it a day. However, I took mine a step further and inset the base. This involves creating a rabbet groove along the outside edge of the base the same thickness as the box walls, and then sliding the box on top of it. This inset gives the entire structure more stability and rigidity. 

11. (Optional) Cut the rabbet. The easiest and fastest way to cut a rabbet is with a straight bit router at a router table. Set the bit height to take about a 16th of an inch. Then route along all six sides, increase the bit depth, and do it again until you’ve created a groove about half the depth of the wood. Clean up the edges, and slide your box over the top. It should fit snug but without outward pressure on the joints.

  • Tip: If you don’t have a router table, you can cut rabbets freehand with a router or take multiple passes with your table saw, moving the fence an eighth of an inch at a time. 
Projects photo
Use a clamp on every joint, if possible. This will make your project more sturdy.

12. Glue liberally, and then clamp until dry. Make sure to apply even clamping pressure along the entire box. If glue is squeezing out of the seams along most of the joint, you’re probably doing well.  

  • Pro tip: To help with cleanup later, use a wet paper towel or rag to wipe away the glue squeeze-out before it dries.

13. Clean up the glue and start sanding. When the glue is dry, clean off the residue with a chisel, paint scraper, or sandpaper, and sand again using 120-grit sandpaper. Check all of your glued seams and joints. There are likely some small holes or cracks in the glue lines. That’s totally normal. 

14. Fill in any holes. Take some of the sanding dust you’ve collected in your sander and mix it with wood glue until you have a paste the consistency of wood putty or chewing gum. Smear that paste into all of the holes and let it dry. Then sand again with 120-grit.

  • Note: You may have to repeat steps 12 and 13 more than once, depending on how perfect you want the finish to be.

15. Finish sanding. Now it’s time to sand for real. Sanding is one of the major differences between a good-looking piece and a great-looking piece—don’t skimp. Go slowly, sand evenly, and don’t skip grits. Move from 120- to 150- to 220-grit, and even beyond if you want to, though I rarely do—most finishes don’t adhere well to wood sanded past 220-grit. 

Finally, use a wood block with some 220-grit sandpaper wrapped around it to gently round over all of the sharp corners. This will keep kids from poking themselves and reduce the chance of the wood splintering. 

16. Finish the box. Once the wood is silky smooth, stain and apply a protective finish. Staining is a straightforward process—each type will have specific instructions. But generally speaking, you wipe or brush it on, let it sit for a few minutes, and then wipe off the residue.

Similarly, follow the instructions on your favorite finish. I typically use water-based polyurethane, at least three coats with very light sanding with 220-grit in between. 

17. Install the hardware. Once the finish is dry, drill the pilot holes for your hardware screws and install the hinges and latches. You now have your very own tiny coffin. 

[Related: Build your own hot glue gun stand to prove you know more than scalding goop]

Add a fancy upgrade

There is absolutely nothing wrong with a plain wooden box. But if you want to give your box a fancy flair, line it with velvet. This looks amazing, and isn’t overly difficult to do. 

1. Cut pieces of poster board. Make sure they match the bottom, top, and inside walls of your box. Because mine was an odd-shaped box, I traced the inside of the box on the poster board before I attached the base. If you didn’t trace the inside of the box beforehand, you can trace the outside of the box now and subtract the thickness of your sides to find the inside dimensions.

Trim the poster board slightly smaller than the box itself—you’ll need to leave extra room for the fabric. Velvet required that I take about an eighth of an inch off of every dimension. But use some test pieces to find out for yourself. 

  • Pro tip: For the walls, you can either do one long piece that bends around each corner, or one individual board per wall. I found that a single long piece looked better because there were fewer seams, but individual pieces are easier to manage and fit. 

2. Cut the fabric. Grab your scissors and ensure the fabric is about 1 inch bigger than its corresponding poster board piece in every direction. 

3. Glue the fabric in place. Using spray adhesive, fasten the fabric to the face of the poster board, leaving those 1-inch overhangs on each side. Make sure the fabric is flat on the board as you glue it—you won’t be able to eliminate folds once the adhesive sets. 

Projects photo
Coffins have to be cozy on the inside, you know?

4. Finish adhering the fabric. Fold the fabric overhangs over the back of the poster board and stick them there with spray adhesive. Pull these tight to create even, smooth edges. 

5. Place the fabric boards in place. They may sit in place on their own. However, you can use hot glue or double-sided tape to hold them. The benefit of these over spray adhesive for final installation is that they can be easily removed if you ever want to change the fabric. 

And there you have it. A classy, stylish coffin box for all your spooky needs.

The post Build a beautiful wedding card box shaped like a coffin for some spooky storage appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

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Build a mechanical keyboard from scratch with 3D-printed components https://www.popsci.com/diy/diy-mechanical-keyboard/ Sat, 15 Oct 2022 15:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=477508
diy mechanical keyboard
This basic mechanical keyboard may be the gateway into a much more convoluted hobby. William Elcock

You can also just buy parts to put together this highly customizable model.

The post Build a mechanical keyboard from scratch with 3D-printed components appeared first on Popular Science.

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diy mechanical keyboard
This basic mechanical keyboard may be the gateway into a much more convoluted hobby. William Elcock

We may earn revenue from the products available on this page and participate in affiliate programs. Learn more ›

Mechanical keyboards are all the rage and it’s easy to see why—there’s the pleasure of being able to really hit the keys, the clicky sounds, and the fact that they can be highly customizable. 

If you want to upgrade your typing experience with one of these gadgets, there are two ways to go about it: You can always buy one or, if you’re up for the challenge, put one together yourself. Choosing one approach or the other may not make a huge difference in the price tag of your new peripheral. But there’s only one way that gives you the satisfaction of having made a keyboard that’s specifically made for you and by you. 

If you’re ready for an adventure, here’s how you can build your own 65-percent mechanical keyboard. A high-end peripheral can easily cost in excess of $100, so we designed this project to be generally affordable, and if you want to cut costs further, you can even 3D-print your case. Ordering your components will generally be more expensive, resulting in a final price tag of around $150. Making your own parts, on the other hand, can reduce that cost to less than $50.

And don’t get deterred if you don’t have a 3D printer at home—you can always sign up for a membership at your local maker space where there will likely be machines you can use and even classes you can attend. If you really want to take the plunge and get your own 3D printer, we’ve put together a guide with everything you need to know before you buy one.

Stats

  • Assembly time (not including 3D printed case):  6 hours 
  • Material cost: $50 to $166.10 
  • Difficulty: Moderate

Materials

If you’re not 3D-printing your components

Tools

  • Soldering iron
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Wirecutter

Instructions

1. Buy or print your case. The case is the body of your mechanical keyboard, and it holds the switches and other electronic components. As we mentioned before, you can buy one or you can 3D print your own.

If you choose to hit the market in search of a case, online retailers such as KBDFans and Aliexpress are good options since they have a wide range of cases. The Chinese online retailer has the benefit of getting you more bang for your buck, but with the drawback that orders take longer to get to you. If you’re impatient, Amazon also carries affordable keyboard components, but you’ll end up paying a premium for having them at your doorstep within a couple of days. 

You can choose to buy an aluminum case or a plastic one. Aluminum tends to be more expensive, but it’s more solid and hefty, which makes it a good choice if you don’t tend to move your keyboard around. On the other hand, some people prefer the look of plastic cases, which are also usually cheaper. Some cases come with a fitting plate, which is the piece that holds the keyboard switches in place, but you can also just look for a case that has an integrated plate. Pick the model, color, and material you like the most—just make sure the case has a mini-USB slot for the control board.

For those who choose to 3D print their own case, I recommend using FedorSosnin’s SiCK-68 tada68 ‘thing’ from Thingiverse. It is well-designed and the printing instructions are easy to follow. If you’re more advanced when it comes to 3D printing, you can alter the Thingiverse design or make one from scratch using the swillkb Plate & Case Builder resource. I personally went with the SiCK-68 build nice and compact, and you can print it in whatever colors you like, but I used silver PET-G filament for the bottom part of the case and white filament for the top. I chose PET-G filament because it’s sturdy and durable, but you can also use PLA, which won’t require you to change the default settings on Ultimater Cura.

When using the SiCK-68 template you’ll need to print some parts separately—the lower and upper case pieces (both left and right), the dowels (to join the pieces together), and the keycaps for the Alt, function, right shift, and CTRL or Command keys, if you buy a standard keycap set. These keycaps are slightly smaller than the Tada68 layout, so you’ll need to make your own to fit the case.

The printing process should be fairly similar for all 3D printers but I used a Creality Ender-3 so I will describe the 3D printing process based on that. If you are using a printer that doesn’t have automatic bed leveling, start by leveling your bed before printing to ensure that you get the best results. I used Ultimater Cura to do my slicing, but you can use another slicer such as Prusa Slicer. You can find the relevant settings I used below—you can use them as a baseline and adjust them to fit your specific machine and filament. If these settings result in a messy-looking print, slowing down the speed should fix any issues.

Printer: Creality Ender-3

Filament type: PET-G

Print nozzle temperature: 235°C

Build plate temperature: 85°C

Print speed: 60mm/s

Initial layer speed: 10mm/s

Enable Retraction

Retraction distance: 9.5mm

Retraction speed: 40.0mm/s

Maximum retraction count: 10

Combing mode: Within infill

Enable print cooling

Fan speed 100.0%

Initial fan speed: 0.0

Build plate adhesion type: Brim

In total, the print took around 30 hours, and if you optimize the settings of your printer, you can just leave your machine to do its thing without much intervention.

If you print with a brim, you’ll note that you will have to trim off the extra material with a craft knife. You’ll also notice some leftover “strings”—these are normal when using PET-G filament, and you can easily remove them by blasting your prints at arm’s length with a heat gun at around 390 degrees F. You can also pluck them off. 

2. Install the switches. Install your switches into the assembled top half of your keyboard case or plate. We went for the Akko CS Ocean Blue, as they are clicky and very affordable, but you can use whatever switches you like as long as they have three pins and are the same size. 

To install them, make sure all the switches are facing in the same direction and press them into place until you hear a click—that’s how you know they are secured.

Peripherals photo
When you finish installing the switches, it’ll look something like this.

3. Solder the switches to the diodes. Now you need to start setting up your keyboard’s control system, which allows the signal of a pressed key to travel from the right switch to the control board. The first step is to solder diodes to the pins of your switches. 

Diodes usually come in sets of 100, but you’ll only need 68—one for each key. This will leave you with a lot of room for error if you need it. These delicate components ensure that current only flows in one direction so that there are no loops that will end up frying your keyboard or causing your machine to register the wrong key. 

Start off by identifying which end is the cathode of the diode—you’ll recognize it by the black band painted on the body. Use your wirecutter to trim the cathode down to 1/2-inch and solder it to the left pin of a switch. Repeat the process with all remaining switches and finish up by trimming the remaining ends of the diodes to 1/2-inch.

4. Connect each row of switches with a wire. You’ll notice that there are five rows and 15 columns of switches connected to diodes. Measure up, cut, and strip five pieces of solid core wire long enough to run for the entire length of each row of switches. 

Solder the remaining ends of the diodes in the first row to one of the pieces of the solid core wire, and repeat the process for all the remaining rows. Finish the row up by trimming the ends of the diodes that are still poking up, and placing electrical tape over each piece of the solid core wire. This will prevent shortages from happening between the rows and columns.

5. Connect each column of switches with a wire. Measure up, cut, and strip 15 shorter pieces of stripped solid core wire long enough to span the length of the columns of your keyboard. Solder one piece of wire to the right pin of each switch in the first column and repeat for all columns.

6. Connect your rainbow wires to the row and column wires. Strip the ends of five wires from your rainbow wire spool, and solder them onto the ends of each row of wire. You can choose the right or left end of the row wires, but whatever you do, make sure your Teensy is able to slot into its spot in the bottom half of the case without issue. If you don’t router your wires properly, they could bunch up and not leave enough space for the Teensy and the case might not even be able to close up properly. 

Continue by stripping the ends of a set of 15 wires from your rainbow wire spool and solder them onto the ends of each column wire. 

At this point, the back of your keyboard should look something like this. 

Peripherals photo
It looks messy, but we swear it’s not as complicated as it seems.

7. Solder the rainbow wire to the Teensy. Use this diagram. The different colors of the rainbow wire will help you tell the difference between each row and column, making the job a little easier. Make sure to double-check your wires before you solder them. 

Pro tip: You can use an original Teensy if you want to, but it will likely be more expensive.

If you want a more theoretical understanding of how exactly this setup works, you can check out Matt3o.com where the author takes a deeper dive into the inner workings of this type of keyboard. But to sum up, each key corresponds to a unique combination of row and column numbers. This is how the Teensy knows which key you’re pressing.

8. Program the Teensy. It’s just a matter of following these steps:

  • Connect your Teensy to your computer with the mini-USB cable.
  • Download the SiCK-68_EasyAVR.zip file.
  • Extract the file to a convenient location and open the folder.
  • In the EasyAVR-master folder, find and run the easykeymap.exe file. This is the setup wizard for the keyboard mapping process.
  • Go to the File menu on the main navigation bar at the top of your screen, and select New.
  • Select TAD68 and then click OK.
  • Close the software for now. 
  • In a new File Explorer (or Finder window, if you’re on a Mac) go to C:\SPB_Data\.EasyAVR\boards
  • Copy the SiCK-68.py file to this folder. This file is in the main folder from when you extracted the SiCK-68_EasyAVR.zip file.
  • Back at the EasyAVR-master folder, open easykeymap.exe again.
  • From File, choose New, select SiCK-68, and then click OK.
  • To create a function key layer (meaning, giving keys a function different from the original when you press the Fn key), select Layer 1, then the 1 key (next to Esc) in the window. Continue by selecting the Scancode option and then F1—this will give the number key the F1 function when you press it along with the Fn key. You can repeat the process with the rest of the number keys (and the minus and plus keys to the right of the row) to assign them up to the F12 function. 
  • Select Build.
  • Save the resulting file.
  • From the main SiCK-68_EasyAVR folder, open the Fake Teensy Loader.exe file.
  • Press the button on your Teensy once to manually enter Program Mode. 
  • Next, go to File and then Open HEX File, and select the document that you created in step 13.
  • Finally, select Program.
  • To finish, select Reboot from the Teensy Loader menu. Your keyboard should now have the firmware on it.

9. Slot in the stabilizers and the keycaps. Stabilizers will help, well, stabilize bigger keys, like the left shift key, the backspace, the spacebar, and the Enter keys. Once the stabilizers are in place, you can attach the keycaps to the switches—just line up the cross-shaped slot in the keycap and push it into place. In case you don’t remember where each keycap goes, you can use this layout as a reference.

10. Test the Teensy. Make sure everything works as it should, by going to the Keyboard Tester website and trying out your gadget. You should see the platform registering each stroke as you hit the keys. 

Any issues you run into may be due to shorts—maybe you didn’t apply the electrical tape properly, or it may have been damaged in some places. This is an easy fix: visually inspect the tape to see if there are any issues. If problems persist, then it might mean something is not soldered correctly. Disconnect the keyboard, remove the tape, and rejoin anything that might have separated. 

11. Tuck in your components and close the case. Once you’ve verified everything’s running smoothly, it’s time to package everything up. There’s a slot in the bottom half of the case for the Teensy. Go ahead and tuck it in there, making sure that it’s as far forward as possible and that you can easily plug in your mini-USB cable. 

Put the top half of the case onto the bottom half, making sure there are no wires protruding. Screw everything together with your machine screws.

12. Apply the rubber feet. Do this near or at the four corners of the bottom of the keyboard. 

I’ve been using this keyboard ever since I finished programming the Teensy and it has been a real pleasure. There is something about the roughness of it—where I cut off the extra material, the custom keycaps, and the joints—that makes me love this keyboard more than any one I could have bought. It’s my keyboard and I built it. 

You might not like the roughness as much as I do (you can easily polish that early on in the process), but the action of the switches and keycaps is quick and polished, so the texture doesn’t compromise the gadget’s performance. The Akko CS Ocean Blue switches are very tactile and clicky, which I personally love, but if you want something quieter, then there are other options out there.

I am a new convert to mechanical keyboards and thanks to this build there’s no way I’m going back to a membrane keyboard. This is a basic build but you don’t have to stop here. You can build one to use at home and one for the office. You can add more customizations like different colored keycaps and you can even add LEDs. The sky’s the limit.

The post Build a mechanical keyboard from scratch with 3D-printed components appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

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How to keep your pumpkins maggot and mold free for Halloween https://www.popsci.com/diy/pumpkin-rot-free/ Fri, 07 Oct 2022 01:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=475617
Partially rotting pumpkin
Microbes could colonize your unsuspecting pumpkins. Getty Images

Keep your pre-jack-o'-lanterns fresh and spooky throughout October.

The post How to keep your pumpkins maggot and mold free for Halloween appeared first on Popular Science.

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Partially rotting pumpkin
Microbes could colonize your unsuspecting pumpkins. Getty Images

This article was originally featured on The Conversation.

For many Americans, pumpkins mean that fall is here. In anticipation, coffee shops, restaurants and grocery stores start their pumpkin flavor promotions in late August, a month before autumn officially begins. And shoppers start buying fresh decorative winter produce, such as pumpkins and turban squash, in the hot, sultry days of late summer.

But these fruits – yes, botanically, pumpkins and squash are fruits–don’t last forever. And they may not even make it to Halloween if you buy and carve them too early.

As a plant pathologistgardener and self-described pumpkin fanatic, I have both boldly succeeded and miserably failed at growing, properly carving and keeping these iconic winter squash in their prime through the end of October. Here are some tips that can help your epic carving outlast the Day of the Dead.

Projects photo
This jack-o’-lantern carved from a pumpkin with a preexisting fungal disease, southern blight, is showing symptoms of soft rot, especially around the nose and eye. The round ball-like structures forming inside the eye socket are fungus. Matt Kasson, CC BY-SA

Pick a healthy pumpkin and transport it carefully

This may seem obvious, but shop for a pumpkin in the same way that you shop the produce aisle. Whether you plan to carve them or not, choose pumpkins that are not damaged, dented or diseased. Is the stem loose? Is there a clear break in the rind? Are there any water-soaked spots on the exterior?

Post-harvest diseases–those that occur after the pumpkin is removed from the vine–can happen anywhere between the field where they were grown and your front step. A bruise or crack will allow opportunistic fungi, bacteria, water molds and small insects to invade and colonize your pumpkins. Keeping the rind defect-free and stem intact ensures your prized pumpkin a longer shelf life.

The trip home also matters. Most of us transport pets, kids, muddy hiking boots and food in our cars, which makes our vehicles giant petri dishes harboring common environmental molds and bacteria. Some of those microbes could colonize your unsuspecting pumpkins.

Secure your pumpkins en route to your house so they don’t suffer bruising or stem breakage. My family often uses seat belts to protect ours. Once home, don’t carry your pumpkin by the stem, which can lead to breakage, especially if it is big and heavy.

Keep them clean and dry

Pumpkins spend most of their lives in fields, developing on top of soil that teems with fungi, bacteria, water molds and soil-dwelling animals like nematodes, insects and mites. Removing these organisms, and any eggs they may have affixed to your pumpkin’s rind, will help preserve it.

To get rid of them, wipe down your pumpkins, preferably with a bleach wipe or two. This is especially important if you plan to carve them: Piercing the dirty rind with a sharp tool will introduce these eager visitors deeper into the heart of your pumpkin. Be sure to use clean tools as well. Microbes can reside and multiply on small amounts of pumpkin debris stuck in the teeth of dirty carving knives.

Even if you are not carving your pumpkin, wiping it down isn’t a bad idea, since it may have small bruises or cracks that are easy to overlook.

ls. As you scoop out the pumpkin’s innards, thoroughly inspect the inside walls for soft rotten patches or dark tissues, which may have been colonized pre- or post-harvest by bacteria, fungi or water molds. Diseased pumpkins sometimes produce an off-putting smell, so use your nose as well.

If you find these issues as you carve, you may want to try carving another pumpkin. You can also paint your pumpkins instead of carving them, which averts the need to peer inside.

Projects photo
As soft rot advances in diseased squash, the water-soaked appearance expands and eventually pulp becomes watery like cooked pumpkin pie. Matt Kasson, CC BY-SA

Some online tutorials and YouTube videos recommend thinning out pumpkins’ walls to better allow candle or LED light to pass through. But if you make the walls too thin, your jack-o’-lantern’s fangs will become inward-curving skin tabs as the pulp desiccates and deforms. A toothless jack-o’-lantern scares no one.

Another advantage of maintaining thicker walls is that it enables you to try a 3D carving. This involves shaping the pumpkin’s surface as you would carve a piece of wood, without breaking through the shell, and can produce dramatic results.

Some people soak their carved pumpkins in diluted bleach or vinegar water after completing them. But this technique is a double-edged sword: Adding more free moisture to your masterpiece invites windblown mold spores and rain-splashed bacteria to colonize it. However, applying a light coating of petroleum jelly or vegetable oil to all the exposed parts can extend the shelf life of your sculpted squash.

Protect your creation

October is a wet month with frequent rains in many parts of the U.S. Rain falling on your jack-o’-lantern will invite every mold in the neighborhood to take up residency in or on it. For this reason, I recommend keeping your pumpkins on a covered porch or displaying them from indoors in a window.

It’s OK if some mold forms inside it, as not all fungi cause soft rots–diseases that produce wet spots that spread, become mushy and turn black. If a pumpkin does become overly moldy on the inside walls, move it outdoors to avoid producing a lot of spores in your home.

When your pumpkin does start to mold and collapse, don’t throw it in a landfill. Put it out for your neighborhood deer or atop your compost pile. Or find a spot in your yard where you can watch it degrade over time, until it turns back to soil in time for next year’s pumpkin patch.

Matt Kasson receives funding from the National Science Foundation, The National Geographic Society and the U.S. Department of Agriculture. He is an active member of the Mycological Society of America and the American Phytopathological Society.

The post How to keep your pumpkins maggot and mold free for Halloween appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

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Every woodworker should know how to mill their own boards https://www.popsci.com/diy/how-to-mill-wood-at-home/ Sat, 24 Sep 2022 15:03:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=472236
A bald man wearing a dust respirator and earmuffs working in a woodshop and milling his own wood to make it straight.
You don't need a fancy woodshop like this guy to ensure all your planks are straight. Antoni Shkraba / Pexels

Flat, square, and straight planks will make your DIY projects much easier.

The post Every woodworker should know how to mill their own boards appeared first on Popular Science.

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A bald man wearing a dust respirator and earmuffs working in a woodshop and milling his own wood to make it straight.
You don't need a fancy woodshop like this guy to ensure all your planks are straight. Antoni Shkraba / Pexels

If you’ve ever purchased two-by-fours at a big box store, you know very well that not all lumber is straight or flat. Although wood is hard, it can flex, bow, and bend as it dries or is exposed to moisture. Warped wood can be challenging to work with: precision cuts will be more difficult and joints won’t be as strong.

Before you start a project with wood you just bought, you’ll likely need to mill it—woodworker speak for trimming a board down to a three-dimensional rectangle (aka a cuboid or rectangular prism). This involves flattening both faces, cutting the edges at 90 degrees to those faces and parallel to one another, and trimming each end to your desired length at a right angle to the freshly straightened edges. Once I learned how to properly mill lumber, everything I built fit together better with less effort. It’s time-consuming up front, but well worth it in the end. 

One note to keep in mind is that the steps below show how to achieve perfectly milled wood using modern power tools. However, you don’t always need maximum precision in your wood, especially if you’re not gluing multiple pieces together or using complex joinery techniques. Consider my current project: a pair of floating shelves that just need to be close to flat and square. Because the wood is too wide for my jointer and too long for my flattening sled, I used a hand plane to get it flat enough. So before you spend hours getting within 1/32nd of an inch, think about the level of precision you actually need. Sometimes close enough is good enough.

You can also fully mill wood with only hand tools, though that takes a lot of time and practice to do well.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a face mask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

  • Time: 1 to 4 hours
  • Cost: None
  • Difficulty: moderate 

Tools

1. Properly acclimate, dry, and store your wood. Wet wood warps. Drying wood warps. Wood that changes environments warps. If you haven’t properly dried and stored your wood, it doesn’t matter how square you get it. It will warp again.

When you first bring your wood home, test it for moisture content. Ideally, your planks should contain around 9 percent moisture or less. If they’re too wet, let them sit until they’re dry. No matter what, you should let the boards sit in your shop for at least a few days to adjust to the temperature and humidity of their new environment.

Don’t stack boards to dry directly on top of one another. This will trap moisture between them, which can cause additional warping, or even cracking. Instead, slide small strips of wood called stickers between each board to ensure proper ventilation. This will allow the planks to dry more uniformly. 

To make my stickers, I cut approximately half-inch-wide strips from whatever scrap pieces of wood I have lying around.

2. Flatten one face. Once a piece of wood is dry, flatten one of its faces. There are a few ways to do this. The best way is to use a jointer, which is designed specifically for this purpose. Slide the board along the bed of the tool and over the rotating cutter head. Always use push blocks to do so, as you don’t want your fingers anywhere near the blades. It will typically take multiple passes to get the face completely flat.

If you don’t have a jointer, you can flatten wood with a planer. However, you’ll need to build a sled to do it. The reason you can’t flatten a board in a planer without a sled is because a planer doesn’t base its cuts off of a flat surface. Instead, the planer will follow the contours of the bottom of whatever you feed it. So if your board is warped, the planer will cut the top of that piece of wood to follow the deformity. By using a sled, you force the planer to follow the milled surface of the sled, leaving a nice, flat cut.

  • Pro tip: To help yourself see when you’re done, scribble all over the face you’re working with a pencil. When all of the pencil markings are gone, you’ll know that face is flat.
  • Note: For those without a planer or jointer, you can build a router sled to flatten the faces of your boards, but that’s more labor intensive, particularly if you’re milling a lot of wood.

3. Joint one edge. Now that one face is flat, it’s time to trim an edge. The goal is to get this edge perfectly straight and at a right angle to the flattened face. Again, the best tool for this job is a jointer. First, decide which edge to flatten. I typically pick the one that’s closest to flat already. If they’re both wonky, I cut the one that rides more securely along the bed of my jointer.

Place your board on the jointer infeed table with the chosen edge down and the previously flattened face tight against the fence. Push the board over the cutter head, trimming the edge. Again, this will likely take several passes. When you’re done, the edge should be perfectly straight and at a right angle to the face. 

  • Pro tip: Use a pencil to mark the edge and face you have flattened, drawing arrows that point to the 90-degree corner so you don’t lose track of what you’ve done.  
  • Note: If you don’t have a jointer for this step, you can edge joint a board with a table saw

4. Flatten the second face. If you have a planer, this is straightforward. Simply run the board through the machine with the flattened face down. Again, scribbling with pencil all over the rough side of the board will help you see when you’ve flattened every square inch of the wood.

The planer is the best tool for this job because it cuts parallel to the board’s bottom face, so you’ll get a uniform thickness. You can’t use the jointer for this because it isn’t capable of cutting parallel to the top face. If you try, the board will likely develop a front-to-back taper, which defeats the point of milling. 

If you don’t have a planer, there are a few other ways to flatten this face. The first is to use a router sled, which was also an option for step 2. The second is to use a table saw, with the square edge down and the flattened face against the fence, but this method only works if the board is small enough that your saw blade can cut it.

5. Cut the remaining edge. You now have two parallel faces and one edge that is at a 90-degree angle to both. The next step is to trim the remaining edge on your table saw. If you know the final width you need the board to be, set your table saw fence to that distance from the blade. Otherwise, set the fence to trim off a sliver of that last edge. By taking only a tiny amount of wood, you reduce the waste and keep the board more versatile for future projects.

[Related: Tune up your table saw the right way]

Run the board through the saw with one face down and the jointed edge against the fence. This will create a cut parallel to that edge, which is also perpendicular to both faces. 

  • Pro tip: Anytime you use your table saw, check the angle of the blade with a digital angle finder. On some projects, like cutting boards, there’s a noticeable difference between 89.8 and 90 degrees. 

6. Trim the ends to length. You can trim the ends of your board with either a miter saw or the crosscut sled on the table saw. The latter is generally my preference because I have better control with the table saw. Plus, clutter piles up near my miter saw and I have to pick it up every time I want to use the tool, whereas my table saw is usually clear.  

Place one of the edges against the fence of your sled (if you’re using a table saw) or the fence built into the saw itself (if you’re using a miter saw). From there, trim off enough wood that the first end is perfectly flat. Then flip the board around and cut it to your preferred length (or simply slice off enough to flatten the opposite end if you’re not sure what you want to use it for).

  • Pro tip: I try to keep the same edge against the fence for both cuts, for consistency’s sake, but if you’ve properly milled the lumber to this step, it shouldn’t matter which edge you use.

Now your board is perfectly square in all three dimensions, and you’ve opened up a whole new world of woodworking. Go forth and build.

The post Every woodworker should know how to mill their own boards appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

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3 reasons to join your local makerspace https://www.popsci.com/diy/what-is-a-makerspace/ Tue, 13 Sep 2022 12:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=469235
woodshop wall covered in hanging tools
Deciding whether you'll stick to woodworking might be a good idea before you buy chisels in every size available. Barn Images / Unsplash

The best thing about makerspaces? The people.

The post 3 reasons to join your local makerspace appeared first on Popular Science.

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woodshop wall covered in hanging tools
Deciding whether you'll stick to woodworking might be a good idea before you buy chisels in every size available. Barn Images / Unsplash

Making something with your own hands brings a special kind of satisfaction that is well known to woodworkers (like me), and all types of artisans. Some may not know this feeling, as many DIY hobbies make it hard for you to get started, requiring tools that may be expensive and take up a lot of space, or specific know-how you can’t learn off the internet.

That’s what I love about makerspaces. These facilities are popping up all around the country and provide people who love to make stuff the space, tools, and equipment to participate in crafts such as woodworking, metalworking, ceramics, electronics, sewing, and more. But most importantly, by signing up to one of these spaces you join a community of like-minded people you can learn and draw inspiration from. 

So no matter your needs or level of experience, you should consider joining your local makerspace as well.  

More space, more tools

Some hobbies not only require tools, but also the freedom to make a mess without worrying about your furniture.

“I want a space where I can get dirty, and I can’t do it in my apartment,” says Omar Eddin, co-founder, and CEO of MakePlus in Los Angeles, California. 

Even as someone with a 150-square-foot workshop in my basement, I can relate. My home space is cramped and dusty, and there’s almost no room to move around without tripping on a hose, cord, or pile of wood. I certainly can’t build large projects like a dining table or kitchen cabinets, and it’s not only uncomfortable, but it could be terribly unsafe. That’s why I decided to join my local makerspace, Lowell Makes in Massachusetts, which offers 3,000 square feet solely to the wood shop—that’s more square footage than my entire house. While not all are that large, they’re likely much bigger than whatever workspace you have at home.

[Related: Get your scratched wooden cutting board looking bright and new]

Another benefit of space that I didn’t really consider when I first joined my local makerspace is the ability to work on more than one project at a time. In my shop, if the glue or finish on one project is drying, I generally can’t work on anything else because I’ll have no more available space. At the makerspace, I can put my glued-up cutting boards off to the side to dry and tackle a batch of headphone stands. The ability to spread out and work across projects is a huge time saver. 

And then there are the tools. I’m not going to lie—I have spent a lot of money on tools, and have just about everything that a hobbyist woodworker needs.  But a makerspace offers tools that I can’t even dream of having at home, either because of the cost or the amount of space they take up. For example, with a price tag that goes over $4,000, the 25-inch planer at my local makerspace literally won’t fit down the stairs into my basement, so I couldn’t have one even if I were willing to splurge. And if you don’t have any tools, makerspaces usually have absolutely everything a beginner needs to start creating and then some, so you can try a new hobby before you start investing in anything other than materials.

Join a community of makers

A lot of people, including me, first go to makerspaces for the room and the tools. But the longer I’ve been at Lowell Makes, the more I realize that the real value of a place like this is the community. For a newcomer makerspaces are an amazing place to learn,  no matter the craft they’ve chosen. 

“It brings a non-traditional learning environment,” says John Noto, co-founder, and treasurer of Lowell Makes, noting that the most valuable learning happens during one-on-one interactions between members, not through classes. “You can learn stuff in an apprenticeship-type way. You can work with people […] and a lot of people are more comfortable with that.” 

Some makerspaces may have staff—usually volunteers—available to answer some of your questions, but most of the time, everyone is everyone’s teacher. Don’t be afraid to ask around—experienced members can help you learn to use the tools safely, teach you proper techniques, and offer advice when you hit a roadblock.  

Many spaces also offer formal education programs, with classes focused around all of the different shops. Signing up for those might be a great idea if you’re starting out or got curious about a new craft you discovered at the makerspace.

“Many people come in with one tool in mind, and then go ‘Oh my God, I didn’t realize you had [these other shops]’,” says Rio Sabella, chair of the membership committee at Lowell Makes. 

In addition to learning and improving, just working in an environment surrounded by other creators is also worth the membership. Seeing what other people are doing and chatting about their processes can be a source of inspiration and even collaboration. 

Makerspaces help businesses flourish

Makerspaces can also be a major support system for more experienced creators trying to turn their hobbies into businesses. Steve De La Cruz, business development and operations manager at MakePlus in Los Angeles, also runs his woodworking design store, Main & 38th, almost entirely out of the makerspace. For Steve, joining MakePlus cut the entry barrier for his business, saving him tens of thousands of dollars in startup costs like tools, insurance, and utilities. 

And saving money isn’t all that makerspaces can do for business owners—they can help you grow it, too. Sabella is another makerspace entrepreneur, running two businesses out of Lowell Makes: Sabella Woodworking and Pipe Dream Arts. In addition to the support and learning, the community is a significant source of clients and referrals.  

“Starting your own business or doing any of the DIY stuff is scary,” he says Eddin. It can be comforting to have a community where others have gone through similar entrepreneurial experiences, he explains, and knowing that you can find support and ask questions is one of the greatest values of makerspaces. 

What to look for in a makerspace

If you’re interested in finding a local makerspace to join, there are a few things you should look out for. 

First and foremost, make sure that it has what you need, meaning the tools and space your craft requires. But you should also consider other aspects like whether they offer storage on-site (so you don’t have to move projects and materials back and forth), classes and training, and 24/7 access if that’s something that interests you. 

Lastly, ask about their different membership levels and find the one that works for you. For example, at my makerspace, basic membership tiers offer basic access to all the shops, while higher tiers include storage space, shared offices, conference rooms, and even dedicated office space.

Once you know a makerspace has the nuts and bolts of what you need to be successful, the next thing you’ll need to find out is if the community and culture fit your personality. Noto says the best way to do this is to visit. 

“Go to an open house […] get in there, walk around and get a flavor for the space. It’s all about the community. Talk to people,” he says.

Ask about the equipment and logistics, but also ask community-focused questions like member collaboration, opportunities to share knowledge and skills, and community-building events.

[Related: Two ways to joint wood on your table saw—no jointer needed]

You may also be able to get some insights into makerspaces by attending local craft and artisan fairs in your area. Makerspaces will often attend and have members on hand to answer your questions. Other vendors might even be members themselves and able to share their experiences. By chatting with makers in your area you can get a sense of just how vibrant a community your local makerspace has created.

Finally, don’t be afraid. Sabella says as part of the membership committee at Lowell Makes, he comes across a lot of people who think that makerspaces are cool, but are not for them. Still, he encourages everyone not to let that stop them if they’re interested. 

“Makerspaces can offer a thousand different things to a thousand different people,” he explains.
“You don’t even have to know what it is you want to do to get involved.”

So if you’re looking for a place to finally build that project you’ve been dreaming about, or want to take your DIY crafting to a new level, then it might be time to find a makerspace in your area.  A community full of like-minded creators might be out there waiting for you. 

The post 3 reasons to join your local makerspace appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

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Start organizing your chaotic, messy desk with this DIY headphone stand https://www.popsci.com/diy/wooden-headphone-stand-diy/ Sun, 21 Aug 2022 13:03:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=464024
A homemade wooden DIY headphone stand on a lighter-colored wooden table, complete with a phone holder, a USB charging port, and slots for pens and pencils.
It's nice when you have a place to put all your things, isn't it?. Jean Levasseur

This versatile project can also hold pencils, pens, a phone, and a USB charger.

The post Start organizing your chaotic, messy desk with this DIY headphone stand appeared first on Popular Science.

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A homemade wooden DIY headphone stand on a lighter-colored wooden table, complete with a phone holder, a USB charging port, and slots for pens and pencils.
It's nice when you have a place to put all your things, isn't it?. Jean Levasseur

At the end of each workday or gaming session, I’ve taken to pulling off my headphones and tossing them haphazardly on my desk. It’s easy, but it’s a mess. I stack other things over them. They knock over my neat piles of paper. (No, not clutter. Piles.) The cord gets tangled. Chaos reigns.

I needed to make a change.

So I built a stand to keep my headset contained when not in use, which might be the first step in a longer journey toward getting the clutter on my desk under control. (OK, I admit, it is clutter.) But I didn’t want something that took up precious desk space yet served only one function. Going all-out, I added some upgrades, including a charging port, phone stand, and pencil holders. The basic project isn’t terribly difficult, and making one is a great way to practice your design skills. It’s also an excellent use for some of that scrap wood you’ve been “saving for later.”

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a face mask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

  • Time: 2 to 4 hours
  • Material cost: $10 to $30
  • Difficulty: easy

Materials

Tools

Instructions

1. Cut your board into two pieces. One will be the vertical stand, the other will be the base, and the exact dimensions of each will depend on the height of your headset. Mine is about 9 inches from top to bottom, so I cut the board for the stand to 11 inches long on my miter saw. This gave me plenty of clearance for the headphones to hang without touching the base.  

The base can be as long as you want, provided that it is at least as long as the vertical stand extends forward. I cut mine out as a 5.5-inch square.

2. Draw the basic shape of your vertical stand. There aren’t many rules to this. Numerous shapes work, as long as they are vertically stable and have a wide enough area on top to hold your headphones. You’ll also need to add a tenon to the bottom, which is an extension that will slide into a slot in the base board to join the two pieces together. This tenon should be the same height as the base is thick. The easiest way to measure this is to place the base board on a flat surface, face down, and stand the vertical piece up next to it. Mark a line on the vertical board at the top of the base and use this line as the “floor” of your design—everything below it will be inset into the base board. 

For purely aesthetic reasons, I wanted my stand to lean forward slightly. To create the angle, I measured in 1 inch along the top right edge of the board and made a mark. Then I drew a line with a straight edge that connected that mark to the bottom right corner of the board. This would be the back of my stand. From there, I made a matching line 2 inches to the left to mark the front of the stand.

For the headset hanger itself, I measured left 2 inches from the top front corner of the stand. Then I drew a 1-inch-long line straight down from there and drew perpendicular from the bottom of that line to the front of the stand. This created a parallelogram as the neck of the stand, with a rectangle off the front of it as the nose. Together, these served as the basic shape of the overall hanger.

  • Note: If you have the knowledge, you can draw your design in a program like SketchUp or Adobe Illustrator, print it out, and glue it to your board to cut it out. 

3. Add flair and curves to your design. With the basic shape drawn, it’s time to add some flair. For me, that meant turning my straight lines and sharp angles into curves, but let your imagination run wild.

If you’re feeling curves as well, there are a few ways to make them. The easiest, but least reliable way is to just freehand them. I only freehand smaller curves or ones that don’t follow a uniform arc. The second way is to find a circular object in your shop about the size you need, plop it onto your board, and trace it. You can also use a flexible ruler or piece of wood and some clamps or nails to trace an arc, which is how I typically do it. I’m also intrigued by the idea of making an arc drawing jig.

[Related: The surprising woodworking tools you already have around the house]

Take your time, and don’t be afraid to experiment. I drew and erased several designs before I found one I was mostly happy with. It is decidedly more duck-like than I originally wanted, but after I cut it out, it grew on me.

4. Cut out the vertical stand. The easiest way to cut out an odd shape like this is with a band saw. If you don’t have one, you can use a jigsaw, as long as you carefully clamp the wood—your workpiece—down. If you don’t have a jigsaw, you can do the job with a coping saw, but in the time it’ll take you to do that, you could’ve probably driven to the store to buy a jigsaw.

5. Cut a slot in the base board to hold the stand. This slot should be the same width as the tenon on the stand. To measure it, position the stand where you want it on the edge of the base and trace the outline of the tenon. This will give you the size of the slot without any fancy measuring.

If you’re careful and precise, you can cut this slot out with a jigsaw or bandsaw. My preferred method, however, is with my table saw and crosscut sled. Raise the height of the blade to the length of the slot. Position the board vertically with one large face flat against the fence, and the thin slot edge facing down on the base of the sled. Cut out the slot using multiple passes, moving the board left or right one blade’s width at a time in between cuts—DO NOT try to move it while it’s touching the blade. 

No matter which method you use, err on the side of making the slot too small. You can always trim more off with your saw, a chisel, or sandpaper, but it’s far more work to fix a loose joint, if you can fix it at all. Test-fit the stand regularly. You’ll have the perfect fit when the vertical board stays in place with only the friction of the joint, no glue needed, though we will glue it eventually.

6. Sand, sand, and sand some more. Once all your pieces are cut, it’s time to make them silky smooth. Using an orbital sander, hit your pieces with 120-, 150-, 180-, and finally 220-grit sandpaper. The only areas you shouldn’t sand are the inside of the slot and the tenon itself. Sanding these can ruin the fit.  

7. Assemble the stand. Once the pieces are smooth, spread wood glue onto the tenon and inside the slot. Slide the tenon on the vertical stand into the slot on the base, and clamp it in place as best as you can. You’ll want to really make sure your clamps pull the tenon forward and push it down. 

8. Add the finish of your choice. Depending on the type of wood you used, you might want to use a stain like red mahogany, which was my choice, or just apply an oil-based finish. Test different finishes on your scraps to see which one you like best. Apply it according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Once your stain or oil is dry, apply one or more coats of polyurethane for protection, again according to the manufacturer’s instructions. I like to use spray-on polyurethane, but if you’re more comfortable with a brush or rag, regular polyurethane works just as well.

Optional additions for your desktop headset stand

Some small pieces of wood fastened together to make a box for a USB charging port that can slip under a DIY headphones stand.
It may not look like much, but this little partial box will be a cozy home for a hidden USB charging port. Jean Levasseur

The steps above will get you a sturdy, basic headphones stand, but there are plenty of ways to work in useful elements that will make your day-to-day desk life much easier. Ideally you’d pencil them into your design from the outset, but you can try to add them later, or build an entirely new stand to keep practicing your skills (and using up scrap wood).

A USB charging hub

I bought a two-outlet USB charging port to add to my stand so I could charge both my Bluetooth headset and my phone right from the stand. To attach it, I built a box large enough to contain the charging port, using the stand I’d already made as the top. I trimmed down the stand to match the dimensions of the box, which was a 4-by-4-inch square. 

The box itself was just three pieces of scrap wood cut to the same height as the charging port, which forms the fourth side of the box. With those pieces cut, I glued them to the bottom of the stand and screwed the charging port into place. I chose to put it on the back of the stand so I didn’t have to look at it, but it can go on any side.

[Related: Build your own desk with custom features like USB ports and biometrics]

Finally, I glued the entire unit onto another, larger base board—5.5 inches wide by 11 inches long—and drilled a hole in the bottom of that board, inside the charger box, to slip the power cord through. To give the cord room below the stand, I added rubber feet.

A phone holder

Since I wanted to be able to charge my phone from this stand, I also added a phone holder. To do so, I modified the dimensions of the base board to be long enough that a phone could stand up in front of either the headphones or the box. If you want a phone holder but not a charging port, the phone will stand up in front of the headphones. 

I cut two narrow strips of wood an inch or so shorter than my base board was wide, one a half-inch tall and one about a quarter-inch. I glued these strips parallel to one another, about an eighth of an inch farther apart than my phone was thick, and clamped them in place until the glue dried. Now I can rest my phone, in landscape orientation, in the gap between them, and it stays upright at a slight angle.

A pencil holder

This last piece was just for fun. I had some scraps left over, so I used those as pencil holders for either side of the charging box. My box is about 1.5 inches narrower than the stand’s base board, so there’s a ¾-inch gap on either side. I cut two pieces of scrap wood to that same ¾ inches wide and tall, and then cut two 4-inch long strips. I glued these to each side, then drilled three ⅜-inch holes into each one, about an inch deep. This is the perfect size to hold a pencil or regular ballpoint pen.

Make it your own

What I love about this stand design is how simple it is, yet how versatile. I’m sure there are 100 other modifications you can make to meet your specific needs. Wireless chargers, LED lights, mouse and controller holders, key rings, drawers, and even a clock are all features I could see adding relatively easily. Go forth and be creative. I know I’ll make more of these, with all new features to control my personal brand of desk chaos.

The post Start organizing your chaotic, messy desk with this DIY headphone stand appeared first on Popular Science.

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Two ways to joint wood on your table saw—no jointer needed https://www.popsci.com/diy/how-to-joint-wood-without-a-jointer/ Sun, 14 Aug 2022 14:21:20 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=462346
A DIY jointer sled holding a small piece of wood in place atop a table saw in a woodworking shop.
Just clamp the wood down, slide it through, and you've got a nice, smooth edge. Jean Levasseur

Perfect edges lead to perfect pieces.

The post Two ways to joint wood on your table saw—no jointer needed appeared first on Popular Science.

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A DIY jointer sled holding a small piece of wood in place atop a table saw in a woodworking shop.
Just clamp the wood down, slide it through, and you've got a nice, smooth edge. Jean Levasseur

A table saw is the cornerstone of most woodworking shops, and it’s well-known for making rip cuts, bevels, and crosscuts. What many people don’t know is how versatile this tool can be with the help of jigs and sleds to enable more advanced cuts. There are all kinds of sleds you can make for your saw, but a great one to build early in your carpentry career is a jointing sled.  

Jointing is the process of flattening one edge of a board until it reaches a perfect right angle to a face, allowing tight seams and accurate fits. However, a jointer can be an expensive tool, and one that takes up precious room. Building a jointer sled can save you money and space, and still get you the nice, square edges you need for quality builds. If you don’t have the time to make a jointer sled, you can achieve the same result with nothing more than a 2- to 4-foot level.

If you haven’t worked with properly jointed wood before, it will change the way you build. The best comparison I’ve found is when I switched from a department store guitar to a Gibson Les Paul. My woodworking improved almost overnight. 

But before we get started, understand that both the level method and a DIY jointer sled will only properly joint the edge of a board that already has a flat face. There are several methods to flatten the face of a board, including a planer sled, a router sled, or just buying pre-flattened wood.  

How to joint wood without a jointer by using a level

A person using a level to joint wood without a jointer, by having the level pressed against their table saw fence as a guide for the piece of wood. They're also using a push block for safety.
Always remember not to get too close to the table saw blade. Jean Levasseur

Using a level is a fast, easy way to edge joint boards on your table saw, no building required. All you’ll need is a level that’s longer than the board you’re trying to joint. I use my 4-foot level most of the time. 

1. Place your level on the table saw, flush against the fence. Then place the board you want to joint on the table saw, against the level, with the flattened face down. If one edge is concave, put that against the level. Your goal is to keep the wood from moving or rocking at all—you can use a hand plane or sander to shape the wood as needed.  

2. Set your fence to the proper width. Once the board is stable, adjust your fence so the saw blade will trim off a sliver of the edge of the board—typically about a blade’s-width, though it ultimately depends on how bowed or misshapen the wood you’re starting with is. Before jointing, place the jig and board at the front and then at the back of the blade—as if you’d finished cutting—to ensure that you’ll trim the full length of the board. Any uncut section of the edge won’t actually be flat, and you’ll need to make a second cut to fix it.

  • Warning: Only raise your saw blade so its teeth barely extend above the top of the board you’re cutting. This will help protect you in case you slip and come in contact with the blade. 

3. Make your cut. With the board away from the blade, turn the saw on, and then slowly push the level and board forward, keeping them moving at about the same speed. Holding both together can be a bit tricky, though. I use a GRR Ripper Pushblock on the board itself while my other hand pushes the level. Try to keep the board from moving along the length of the level, or you might get a slight taper in your edge.

Once you finish the cut, turn the saw off and admire your perfectly flat, completely square edge.

How to make a jointer sled

There is nothing wrong with the level method, but if you’d like a solution that’s a bit more secure and permanent, consider a jointer sled. This simple jig clamps your board in place so you won’t have to worry about pushing two objects through your table saw at the same speed. I’m not comfortable trying to safely maneuver two objects next to a spinning blade, so I prefer this to the level method.

As a bonus, you may be able to use this sled as a tapering jig.

Stats

  • Time: 1 to 2 hours
  • Cost: $40 to $60
  • Difficulty: easy

Materials

Tools

Instructions

1. Cut two 4-foot-long strips of plywood. The width of each can be whatever works best for you. My sled is 10 inches wide, so I cut a 10-inch-wide strip for the base of the sled. The wider this strip, the wider the boards you can joint. I cut the other strip—the riser board that will hold the toggle clamps—to about 5 inches wide, but you can make it any width that will still fit your toggle clamps. My dimensions can joint 3- to 9-inch boards pretty easily.

2. Glue the 5-inch board to the top of the 10-inch board. First, line the narrower board up with the right edge and overhang it a 16th of an inch or so. Don’t skip this overhang, as it will help you square the sled in the next step. Try to keep it fairly consistent across the full length of the sled. Use a few clamps to hold it in place.

3. Screw the riser board in place on top of the base board with ¾-inch wood screws. Keep the clamps on until the glue is dry enough to work with according to the manufacturer’s instructions, typically about two hours  

4. Trim both long edges of the sled. This is where the overhang comes into play. Adjust your fence to cut a blade’s-width of wood off of your sled. Then run the sled through with the doubled-up edge against the fence. The overhang will ride along the fence, and you’ll cut the other edge perfectly parallel to it. Once you’ve finished, turn the board 180 degrees so the freshly cut edge is against the fence. Adjust the saw to trim off another blade’s-width of material, and cut the double-stacked edge so that the top and bottom piece of plywood are flush. This will ensure you don’t have any variation on that edge, which will keep your future cuts perfectly straight. 

5. Screw the toggle clamps in place. How many you use depends on the length of the boards you plan to cut. I started with three, spaced somewhat evenly, 6 inches from each end. Screw these onto the riser board, flush with the left edge so they reach as far as possible. You can always add or move the clamps if you need to in the future.

[Related: Tune up your table saw the right way]

6. (Optional) Add another set of raised toggle clamps. I found that there were a few boards I wanted to joint that my initial set of clamps were too short for. To solve this, I added another set screwed into plywood risers. All I did was cut a few scraps of ¾-inch plywood, glue them to the double-stacked board, and screw the new toggle clamps to the new risers. This second set lets me joint boards that are about 2.5 inches thick, up from 1.5 inches or so.   

7. Start jointing. To use the sled, set your table saw to the same width as the sled. Then clamp the board you would like to joint onto the sled, with the flat face down and the left edge overhanging the blade. Finally, run it through your table saw, making sure to keep the right edge of the sled tight against the fence the whole time.  

If the board you are jointing is wider than the base of the sled, move the fence to the right until the blade is lined up with where you want to trim. Check that you will cut along the full length of the board by lowering the blade to less than half an inch and running the sled over with the power off.  

I try not to have more than half of the board overhanging the sled, just for stability purposes and my own comfort in how safe the cut is.

And there you have it: A perfectly flat edge. From here, you can flip the board 180 degrees to trim it down to finished width and cut a parallel edge on the other side. Then either hop over to your miter saw or pull out your crosscut sled to square the two remaining ends. Welcome to the next level.

The post Two ways to joint wood on your table saw—no jointer needed appeared first on Popular Science.

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Good news: Making your own Choco Taco is totally possible https://www.popsci.com/diy/how-to-make-choco-tacos/ Sat, 06 Aug 2022 16:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=460556
A pair of homemade Choco Tacos on a white plate in front of a black velvet background.
We put these homemade Choco Tacos in front of a black velvet background because they deserve it. John Kennedy

Fans of this nostalgic dessert can have a little treat.

The post Good news: Making your own Choco Taco is totally possible appeared first on Popular Science.

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A pair of homemade Choco Tacos on a white plate in front of a black velvet background.
We put these homemade Choco Tacos in front of a black velvet background because they deserve it. John Kennedy

When Klondike announced it was discontinuing the Choco Taco, fans of this 39-year-old ice cream truck staple inundated the Good Humor-Breyers brand with social media comments spanning the entire five stages of grief. And now there are rumors it could be making a comeback. Bah—ignore all that noise. Ascend beyond it.

One of the benefits of DIY is that you’re not beholden to the whims of a corporate bottom line. You can do whatever you want, and that includes making your own Mexican cuisine-inspired ice cream treat. Whether you actually enjoyed the Choco Taco or thought its waffle cone shell got a little too soggy too fast, you can absolutely slap together a tasty homemade version, and we can help you get started.

Stats

  • Time: 1 to 2 hours
  • Difficulty: easy
  • Yield: about 12

Ingredients

Waffle cone

  • ⅔ cup of flour
  • ¼ teaspoon of salt
  • ½ cup of brown sugar
  • 2 eggs
  • ¼ cup of unsalted butter
  • ¼ cup of milk
  • 1 teaspoon of vanilla extract
  • (Optional) cooking oil (or cooking spray)

Chocolate sauce

  • ½ cup of heavy cream
  • ½ cup of chocolate chips (or baking chocolate)
  • ½ cup of peanuts (or any other nut)

Ice cream

Tools

Instructions

1. Mix the flour and salt for the taco shell. What made the Choco Taco unique was its waffle cone taco shell, so that’s what you’ll be spending most of your time on. Without it, you’ve just got an ice cream sundae, and that’s not going to sit well in your bare hand. Grab a small bowl, dump in the flour and salt, and mix the two ingredients together.

2. Combine the brown sugar and eggs in a separate, larger bowl. This is the bowl you’ll be making your batter in, so make sure it’s big enough.

3. Dump the salty flour into the sweet eggs, and mix it all up. When you’re done, all the ingredients you’ve worked with so far should be combined into a fairly thick, tan batter.

4. Melt the butter. Slice the butter into half-inch-thick slabs to maximize the surface area exposed to heat and plop them into a small, microwave-safe bowl. If you don’t have a microwave, you can use a small pot on your stove. Melting will take about 30 seconds in the microwave and maybe a couple minutes on the stove.

5. Add the milk, vanilla extract, and melted butter to the batter. You don’t have to do it in this exact order, but we did, to minimize the admittedly small likelihood that the hot butter would start cooking the eggs. Mix everything together until you have a smooth batter again.

6. Prepare your cooking surface. You don’t technically need a waffle cone maker, a pizzelle maker, or a krumkake maker to craft homemade Choco Tacos, but we think each of those tools will make the job easier. If you have one, get it set up according to its instructions.

That said, we scoffed at the rules of waffle cone making and cooked our waffle cone taco shells with nothing more than a frying pan, a spatula, and a dream. While they tasted like waffle cones, they lacked the crisp crunch of a cone and were a little like stiff pancakes. But that didn’t matter much in the end—to us, at least.

7. Set up a “waffle clothesline.” Hot off the press (or stove), your waffle cones will be malleable, but they won’t stay that way for long. You also won’t want to waste time holding them in the shape of a taco shell until they’re completely cool. We found the best solution was to build a sort of waffle clothesline out of a wooden spoon placed between two sturdy containers, but you can use anything that achieves the same effect.

A waffle cone, or waffle pancake, draped over a wooden spoon that's stretched between two containers.
Drape your cones like you would a wet towel. John Kennedy

8. Cook a waffle cone. If you’re using a press of some kind, spoon in a nice circle of batter in any size you want, close the lid, and cook it for one to two minutes, or however long your machine’s instructions suggest. Easy.

[Related: We made pancakes with substituted ingredients so you don’t have to]

If you’re using a frying pan, cooking will be a little more complicated. Grease the pan with cooking oil or spray, and wait for it to get hot over medium heat. Then spoon a heaping tablespoon of batter into the pan, letting it form a circle about 2 inches across. Let it cook for about five seconds, then start spreading the batter out as thin as you can, expanding the circle as far as it will go without breaking.

When your dollop of batter has turned pale and you can see bubbles across its surface (about 30 seconds), flip it over and immediately press down on it with your spatula. This will simulate the pressure you’d get in a mechanical press, but won’t duplicate it. Move your spatula every five seconds or so to ensure an even thickness. After another 30 seconds, take the waffle cone off the pan and put it on a cooling rack, paper towel, or plate.

  • Warning: If you’re working on a stovetop, you may find your hand gets hot from being close to the pan so frequently. Take breaks or wear an oven mitt to mitigate any potential pain.

9. Mold your cone into a taco shell and hang it up to cool. When your cone is cool enough to handle, bend it into the desired shape and press it over the handle of your wooden spoon or whatever you’re using as a “clothesline.”

  • Warning: If you wait too long to bend the cone, it will crack, so it may take you a few tries to find the right timing.

10. Repeat steps 8 and 9 until you’ve used all your batter. You may find your clothesline is too small to hold all your taco shells, but each one should hold its shape fairly well after a minute or two of cooling. You can then move them from the hang-dry line to a traditional cooling rack, but you may need to place them upside down so they retain their shape. You should have around a dozen when you’re done.

Twelve homemade waffle cones resting on a cooling rack.
Yes they look like pancakes, but they hold their shape and they taste like waffle cones. John Kennedy

11. Chop your nuts. Traditionally, the Choco Taco contains peanuts, but we used cashews. Put your chosen nuts on a cutting board and use a knife to chop them into fairly evenly sized pieces.

[Related: 4 simple ways to upgrade your boring DIY cutting boards]

12. Make the chocolate sauce. We made a simple chocolate ganache, which is just equal parts heavy cream and chocolate. You can use any chocolate you like, even chocolate chips. You could even attempt to temper some chocolate, but only if you’re feeling really fancy.

Pour the cream into a saucepan over medium heat and let it heat up. Meanwhile, dump the chocolate into a heat-proof bowl. When the cream starts to bubble around the edges (about a minute or two), pour it into the chocolate and mix it all together until you’ve got a smooth chocolate sauce.

13. Add the nuts to the chocolate sauce. Just dump them in and mix everything together.

14. (Optional) Make ice cream. If you’re a member of the “go big or go home” crowd, maybe you want to make your own ice cream for these. We tried, using our well-tested recipe for hand-churned ice cream in a bag, but it didn’t make enough, so we bought a pint at the grocery store. Sometimes you have to know your limits. The original Choco Taco was stuffed with fudge ripple ice cream, but you can use anything you like.

15. Fill the tacos with ice cream. When your shells are cool enough to hold their shape (we waited about an hour), start assembling your homemade dessert. First, scoop the ice cream into a shell, and place it into whatever container you plan to freeze your DIY Choco Tacos in. Keep going until all the shells are full of ice cream and they’re lined up nicely in the container. This will keep them from falling over when you add the chocolate.

16. Add the chocolate. Spoon the chocolate sauce onto each taco, using as much as you want.

17. Freeze. Let the desserts sit in the freezer for at least an hour or two (we waited three) before eating them. While you can eat them immediately, freezing them will ensure the chocolate hardens and everything melds together like a Choco Taco you’d get out of a package.

  • Note: You may need to use a spoon or fork to separate the individual tacos for serving.

Although these frozen treats may not fill the nostalgic hole in your soul left by the departure of your beloved Choco Taco, they will taste good, and that counts for something.

The post Good news: Making your own Choco Taco is totally possible appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

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These DIY hanging plant shelves will make your home feel like a forest canopy https://www.popsci.com/diy/diy-hanging-plant-shelves/ Fri, 22 Jul 2022 12:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=457734
A DIY plant hanger made out of two pieces of wood and some rope.
Ceiling space is so underutilized. Jean Levasseur

Stop putting plants on the ground and build shelves for them in midair.

The post These DIY hanging plant shelves will make your home feel like a forest canopy appeared first on Popular Science.

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A DIY plant hanger made out of two pieces of wood and some rope.
Ceiling space is so underutilized. Jean Levasseur

A gloriously vibrant, thriving plant (or several) can really transform a space and help make a house a home. In the wrong spot, though, they can be a nuisance—no one likes to carefully shimmy past the delicate leaves of a Hosta to get from the couch to the fridge. Look up: are you using that ceiling space? If not, you should try hanging your plants.

Not only will suspending your greenery in midair keep pots and stray dirt from cluttering counters, floors, and windowsill, but building your own hanging plant shelves is a simple project that requires only an hour or two of work.

The shelves I made for this story are 8.5 inches square, but you can customize the dimensions to whatever size and number of shelves you need. You can also upgrade the rope to a chain for an entirely new look, or hit the edges with your favorite router bit to give the shelves a unique profile. Mixing wood types, finishes, and adding vinyl designs can take your planter from basic to professional in just a few extra minutes. When you’re done, these hangers will work well in corners and windows, both indoors and outdoors.

Stats

  • Time: 1 to 2 hours (plus a few more for drying)
  • Material cost: $30 to $50
  • Difficulty: Easy

Materials

Tools

Instructions

1. Cut your shelves close to their final length. Using your miter saw or circular saw, cut your board to the approximate final length of your shelves, about an inch longer than the finished size will be. Because I was aiming for 8.5-inch square shelves, I cut these initial pieces to 9.5 inches long. This extra length will allow you to square the shelves by cutting off the excess.

2. Trim your shelves to a consistent width. This isn’t strictly necessary, but I’ve found that store-bought boards are rarely as clean as they should be, so I always trim them down to make the edges a bit nicer. Take about a blade’s-width of material off of one edge of the board with your table saw, then flip the shelf around and trim the opposite edge down to your desired final width.

  • Note: You can achieve a far more flat and square edge if you use a jointer or a jointer sled on a table saw. But for free-floating shelves like this, you really don’t need the wood to be perfectly square, so all that’s probably not worth the effort if you bought finished wood. 

3. Cut your shelves to their final length. Using your crosscut sled, cut a blade’s-width of wood off of one end of the board to create a right angle to the edge you trimmed on the table saw. Then flip the board over, keeping the same edge against the crosscut fence, and trim the other end to its final length. If you don’t trim both ends, your shelves may be pretty far out of square.

4. Measure and mark where you want your rope to go through each corner of the shelf.. I positioned mine ¾ of an inch from each edge of the board. This left me enough space around the hole that the wood wouldn’t be likely to crack or break.

5. Drill holes for the ropes. Drill a 5/16-inch hole at each mark to hold the ropes. 

  • Pro tip: To keep the wood from splintering (tear-out) when the bit punches through the bottom of the shelf, drill halfway through the board from the top, then flip it over and drill a matching hole from the bottom. You can line these two holes up by first drilling a very small pilot hole all the way through the board with, say, a 1/16-inch bit, and using that hole to center your 5/16-inch bit.

6. Sand your shelves smooth. Once you’ve cut the boards to their final dimensions, sand them with a random orbital sander or a sanding block. Start with 80-grit sandpaper, then move to 120-grit. Because this project will be polyurethaned and people are unlikely to touch or handle it much, I stopped at 120-grit, but you can go higher if your chosen stain or finish recommends a different final grit.  

As the last sanding step, take a piece of 220-grit paper and gently rub it over all the sharp edges by hand, rounding them over. This serves two purposes. First, it keeps people from getting poked or sliced if they touch or bump into the hanging shelves. Second, rounding over those sharp edges and corners reduces the chances that the wood will splinter or break.

7. Stain and finish your shelves. Apply whatever stain you decide to use, according to the manufacturer’s instructions. I chose a dark mahogany because I thought the contrast with the lighter rope would look good.  However, choose whatever matches your aesthetic.

Once the stain is dry, apply a protective finish. I used spray-on polyurethane because we planned to hang ours indoors. If your shelves will live outside, consider using spar urethane instead—it will hold up better to the sun and the weather.

8. Cut two equal lengths of rope. I wanted approximately 10 to 12 inches between the two shelves and between the upper shelf and the hanger. However, the knots take up a lot of rope, so you can’t just snip off 24 inches and call it a day. I added 2 inches for the bottom shelf knot, another 2 inches for the top shelf knot, and then 6 inches for the hanger knot. Then I added a couple more inches to be safe.

I wanted a two-shelf planter with the bottom shelf about 24 inches from the hook used to hang it, meaning each of the two supporting ropes would need to be about 35 inches long, running from one corner, up to the ceiling, and back down to the adjacent corner. So I cut each rope to 70 inches to have enough to tie the knots. 

9. Tie loops in the middle of each rope.. These loops will attach to the S-hook hanging from your ceiling, and there are probably a dozen different knots you can use. I used a basic mid-rope overhand knot with a loop. This knot is simple to tie and relatively easy to position where you want it on the rope. Tie one loop in the exact center of each rope, keeping the loops approximately the same size. This will make it easier to level the shelves later.

10. Tie the shelf knots and slide on the shelves. With the hanging loops tied, position the shelf support knots. I measured 12 inches from the bottom of the loop knot on each of the four lengths extending from the loops (two on each rope) and marked that with a black permanent marker. Then I inserted the ropes into the holes of the top shelf and pulled them through until the shelf was above those black marks. Again, the strands of each rope should thread through adjacent corners, not the diagonals.  

With the shelf sitting above the marks, I tied a basic overhand knot in each strand. The trick is to position the knot just below the black mark on each rope. If you leave the knot loose, you can slide it up and down the rope until each knot is at exactly the same height. Then tighten the knots so they don’t slip, and push the shelf down to rest on top of them. 

11. Repeat step 10 with the bottom shelf. While you do this, measure from the bottom of the top shelf, leaving room for knots at the ends of the rope. In my case, the distance that made the most sense with the rope remaining was 11 inches.

12. Install mounting hardware in the ceiling or wall. There are numerous products that will allow you to hang an S-hook, but the simplest is an eye bolt with a diameter wide enough to fit the hook. Pre-drill a hole in the ceiling, ideally into a ceiling joist or the casing of a bay window for strength, then screw the eye bolt into place.

13. Hang your shelf up and adjust it as needed. Once the knots are all secure, hang the entire unit from the S-hook by the rope loops. Loosen and move the knots up and down as necessary until everything sits level. When you’re satisfied, add your plants.

  • Pro tip: If you don’t ever plan to adjust the planter, add a dab of super glue to each knot when everything is done. This will ensure the knot remains in place over time, though it also means you likely won’t ever be able to untie it.

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Best presentation software of 2023 https://www.popsci.com/gear/best-presentation-software/ Wed, 22 Jun 2022 19:22:05 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=450987
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Let’s put on a slideshow.

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Best overall Microsoft PowerPoint is the best presentation software overall. Microsoft PowerPoint
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Sometimes the easy answer is the right one. PowerPoint is versatile, easy to use, and doesn’t cost too much.

Best for professionals Canva is the best presentation software for professionals. Canva
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Canva makes it easy to make presentations and all kinds of simple, but striking content.

Best for Zoom Prezi is the best presentation software for zoom. Prezi
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Prezi lets you build presentations in creative ways, including a format made specifically for video calls.

Whether you’re a student or a working professional, everybody has to make presentations from time to time and that usually involves presentation software. But when you’re frantically Googling around to refresh your PowerPoint knowledge, it’s only natural to wonder what is really the best presentation software out there. Yes, everybody knows that Microsoft’s the biggest player in the slideshow game but there are actually a lot of alternatives to explore. If you expand your horizons, you may find another app that makes more sense for you. Expand your office app horizons and see how the best presentation software can make your job a little easier.

How we chose the best presentation software

As a journalist with over a decade of experience, I know how to present information to all sorts of audiences effectively and efficiently. Over the years, I’ve worked with a variety of clients to craft copy for presentations, as well as the slideshows themselves. I’ve used the best software in the business, as well as quite a lot of the bad stuff, so I know what will work for you and your needs. 

In making this list, I relied on my own firsthand experience with presentation software, as well as consulting professional tutorials and critical reviews. I also personally created a number of sample slideshows using prebuilt templates and custom layouts of my own in order to put the programs through their paces. I used both the stalwart software suites that everyone knows, as well as a number of lesser-known alternatives that have emerged over the past few years. If an impressive new program hits the block, we will update this list accordingly once we get some hands-on time with it.

Things to consider when buying presentation software

There has been an explosion of presentation software over the past few years, and each of the program’s developers has their own pitch to lure people away from PowerPoint. The most important things to consider when choosing presentation software will vary from person to person. A small business owner putting together a professional presentation with original branding may need different tools to make an appealing pitch, versus a student building a last-minute slideshow for a group project to present the results of their research in Econ class.

There are a wide variety of bells and whistles that presentation building programs boast as their killer features, including brand kit integration, easy social media sharing options, offline access, seamless collaboration, AI suggestions, and analytics. These extra features will seem very helpful to enterprise customers, but the average person should realistically prioritize more traditional factors like ease-of-use, customizability, and cost. There are, however, a few elements that every single person who uses presentation software needs, so let’s walk through the fundamentals.

Ease of use

No one wants to spend hours learning how to make a basic slideshow. While all of these programs take time to master, some of them are easier to pick up quickly than others. An intuitive piece of software grabs your attention and allows you to perform basic actions like adding slides and assets without time-consuming tutorials. The more professional-grade programs out there might take a little more time to master, but they’re rarely difficult to use.

Prebuilt templates

The number one thing that you want from a presentation software is a good-looking final product, and templates help you achieve that goal quickly and easily. All of the competitive presentation software suites out there have a library of pre-built templates that let you plug in information quickly. Quality and quantity separate the good programs from the great ones, though. Some apps have more templates than others, and some templates look better than others. On top of that, some programs lock their best templates behind a premium subscription, which leaves you relying on the same basic structures over and over. 

The truly professional-grade software also includes a selection of prebuilt art assets to help you bring a personal touch to the presentation. If a program doesn’t have an impressive set of templates, it isn’t worth using.

Customizability

While most people want to start building their presentations with a template, you need to change some things around if you want to keep things looking fresh. Professionals, in particular, will probably want to customize every aspect of their slideshows, from the color of the background to the exact pixel position of images. This obviously increases the amount of time it takes to craft a presentation, so it’s important that the systems for making those tweaks are intuitive and easy to use. Not every user is going to need the level of customizability, but it’s definitely something worth considering.

Who’s it for?

Every presenter needs to build a slideshow for their audience. They should probably ask that question when they pick which presentation software to use as well, as it can help determine what software they should use. Students might need the expansive collaboration tools of certain platforms but might not need the pinpoint design controls in others. While the presentation software listed below can all make a great slideshow with enough time and effort, your own use case and the intended audience will have a big impact on your choice.

Cost & affordability

Very few presentation builders have a simple, one-time price tag. Most operate on a subscription model, where you can buy a month’s use for a certain amount, or save money by buying a year at a time. A few are free, though many appear to only offer a free trial or stripped-down version that will allow you to put together something basic before quite literally buying in.

If you’re looking to build just one or two presentations a year, it’s probably best to stick to one of the free options. However, if you have to build slideshows on a regular basis, it’s probably worth sinking your money into a subscription to the program you really like.

Generally speaking, as you might expect, the more impressive and in-depth software costs more than the more traditional fare. However, because many of the most popular programs in the space (such as Microsoft PowerPoint) come as part of a suite, you will need to weigh the benefits of not only the presentation software but also the other programs that come along with it. If you’re a die-hard Microsoft Word user, for example, you’re already paying for the Microsoft Office suite, but the calculus gets more complicated if you prefer Google Docs.

The best presentation software: Reviews & Recommendations

By now, you probably have a good idea of what you should be looking for in presentation software, so now we’ll get into the interesting part. As mentioned above, we’ve broken down our picks based on a few common use cases, as well as the criteria we mentioned above. Regardless of which one you decide on, all of these programs are powerful tools that can produce a slick slideshow with a little time and effort, and you’d be well served by any of them.

Best overall: Microsoft PowerPoint

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Why it made the cut: Whether you’re a broke student or a busy professional, Microsoft PowerPoint can do whatever you need. It’s also reasonably priced.

Specs

  • Platforms: Windows, macOS, iOS, Android, Web
  • Suite or standalone: Microsoft Office 365 Suite
  • Special features: Designer, MS Office integration
  • Free version: Yes

Pros

  • Well-known interface imitated by competitors
  • Powerful and accessible
  • Good templates
  • Part of a popular software suite

Cons

  • Slight learning curve

Even after testing more than a dozen programs, Microsoft PowerPoint remains the go-to presentation software for most people. Setting the industry standard, it offers great templates, an accessible interface, an impressive library of prebuilt art assets, and plenty of tools for building a slick slideshow. It also supports real-time collaboration, offline editing, and third-party content embedding. At $70 a year, PowerPoint is significantly cheaper than most of its competitors and it’s part of Microsoft Office, a software suite that most companies pay for and workers can’t live without. 

Of course, it isn’t perfect. PowerPoint makes it very easy to make a basic presentation, but it will likely take you longer to make something that looks polished and professional in PowerPoint than with design-forward programs like Canva or Prezi. Even top-flight presentations are achievable, though, in a reasonable timeframe. PowerPoint might not be the best presentation program for every situation, but it’s certainly the best for the average person.

Best for professionals: Canva

Canva

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Why it made the cut: Canva creates beautiful, professional-grade presentations faster than its rivals, and it’s easier to use than most.

Specs

  • Platforms: Web, Windows, iOS, Android
  • Suite or standalone: Standalone
  • Special features: Amazing templates, very customizable
  • Free version: Yes

Pros

  • Excellent free version
  • Extremely easy to use
  • Makes beautiful presentations fast
  • Eye-catching templates

Cons

  • Harder-to-use advanced features
  • Limited offline use

If you need to make a striking business presentation in an hour, Canva is absolutely the software for you. Designed from the ground up for business professionals who don’t want to have to use another program (i.e., Photoshop or GIMP) to create visually compelling content, Canva delivers on this promise in spades. 

Canva’s gorgeous templates are the best of any of the programs we tested, and its free version is far more robust than you’d expect for a costless trial. Unlike many of these other programs, it creates virtually any marketing material you can imagine, including videos, logos, social media posts, and even resumes. It also includes splashy features that most people won’t use, like brand kit support and easy sharing to social media.

Canva’s simplicity has drawbacks, too, though. It can be a bit difficult to get it to make complicated charts, tables, or diagrams, and it lacks the familiar (but clunky) customizability of PowerPoint. However, if you’re looking to make the most beautiful presentation you can, Canva is a great choice for your business.

Best for Zoom: Prezi

Prezi

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Why it made the cut: Prezi is a strong program that structures its basic features in a completely different manner than its competitors. It also has very good Zoom integration.

Specs

  • Platforms: Web
  • Suite or standalone: Standalone
  • Special features: Zoom integration, unique structure
  • Free version: No (Two-week free trial)

Pros

  • More creative structure than competitors
  • Intuitive interface
  • Expansive feature set

Cons

  • Doesn’t work for everyone
  • Must pay more for advanced features

If you’re really tired of the straight-line structure mandated by other presentation software, Prezi gives you a little more freedom to build things your way. Prezi uses a topic-oriented form that allows you to easily string your ideas in an order that makes sense to you. The basic idea behind Prezi is that you create bubbles of individual content, and then you thread a path through those ideas to create a presentation with a physical form that’s more enticing and conversational than just a linear succession of slides.

While this unique approach makes Prezi a worthy alternative on its own, the app also boasts plenty of specialized features you’d want in a premium program, including a large asset library, social media integration, and collaboration support. 

Though any presentation software can work with Zoom via the screen-share function, Prezi features a very useful video call-focused mode, Prezi Video, which allows you to build a presentation as an overlay that appears in your Zoom window so people can see you and your slides.

Prezi’s freeform structure isn’t going to work for everyone, but if Powerpoint feels stifling, it might open new doors for you.

Best for Mac: Keynote

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Why it made the cut: Apple’s answer to PowerPoint might not be as popular as its competitor, but it’s still pretty powerful in its own right.

Specs

  • Platforms: macOS, iOS, Web
  • Suite or Standalone: Apple Software Suite
  • Special features: iCloud support, multiple formats
  • Free version: Yes (with an Apple account)

Pros

  • Familiar to most Mac users
  • Better asset library than most
  • No-frills feature set

Cons

  • Lacks unique selling points

If you’re a Mac user, you’ve probably at least considered using Keynote to put a presentation together. While all of the other programs on this list work on a Mac as web apps, Keynote is the only app made specifically for the platform.

Like PowerPoint, Keynote is a wide-reaching program designed to help anyone make a sharp-looking presentation, from students to professionals. It has a more robust feature set than other PowerPoint competitors–including better default templates, a bigger asset library, and desktop support. It doesn’t quite have the versatility of enterprise-facing apps like Canva, but you can put together a great-looking slideshow for school or a recurring meeting.

On the other hand, it can be a little tricky to pick up: The interface isn’t quite as intuitive as Google Slides, which is also free. If you have access to both, you get a choice: Build a more striking presentation in Keynote, or put something together quickly in Slides.

Best for students: Beautiful.ai

Beautiful.ai

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Why it made the cut: Beautiful.ai’s AI-powered presentations allow you to make a sharp slideshow in no time flat, and its generous free trial gives time to try it out.

Specs

  • Platforms: Web
  • Suite or standalone: Standalone
  • Special features: AI integration
  • Free version: No (Two-week free trial)

Pros

  • Clean interface
  • Modern features
  • Simple and effective

Cons

  • Expensive for what it is
  • Limited assets and templates

Looking to build a clean, modern presentation in as little time as possible? Beautiful.ai uses AI to help you build a visually stunning presentation in no time flat. While it’s less of a household name than our other picks, it’s the choice of many tech companies for its uncluttered interface, eye-catching templates, and overall no-fuss approach. 

Compared to PowerPoint or Canva, Beautiful.ai does not have a rich feature set or an infinite variety of template options. What the content library lacks in volume, it makes up for in style, though. Its appealing, elegant content elements lend themselves to clean, modern presentations. More importantly, the program’s AI assistant knows how to use those assets. It automatically tailors your slideshow’s design to fit the information you want to present, so you’ll wind up with something thoughtfully prepared before you know it.

Best budget: Google Slides

Google

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Why it made the cut: Google Slides is not only an excellent presentation program—it’s also one of the only ones actually free with no strings attached.

Specs

  • Platforms: Web, iOS, Android
  • Suite or standalone: Google Workspace
  • Special features: Easy collaboration, Google integration
  • Free version: Yes

Pros

  • Free for anyone with a Google account
  • Familiar interface
  • Easy to share and collaborate
  • Decent templates

Cons

  • Somewhat basic in functionality
  • Clunky for some users

When it comes to software, there’s “free to use,” and then there’s free. Most of the software on this list offers either a restricted free mode or a time-limited trial. Google Slides is actually free, fully free, for another with a Google account. And it holds its own, even compared to its premium competitors.

Google Slides feels like a simplified version of PowerPoint. It’s a little easier to learn the basics, but also offers fewer templates, screen transitions, and content. It also lacks a built-in asset library to fill dead space, though the program’s Google Drive integration makes it easy to add your own. Like most Google programs, it also supports add-ons that give it enhanced features, like the ability to solve equations within the slideshow.

If you’re looking to make an extremely sharp presentation, Google Slides will take a bit more effort than most. If you need to make a basic slideshow and you grew up on earlier versions of PowerPoint, you’ll feel right at home using Slides.

FAQs

Q: What are the three most popular presentation software options?

Based on our research, the three most popular programs are Microsoft PowerPoint, Google Slides, and Keynote, roughly in that order. PowerPoint is far more popular than the other two, though. All three are good options, depending on what you’re looking for. All things being equal, though, we recommend PowerPoint.

Q: How much does presentation software cost?

Generally, most of the programs listed here cost between $7 and $15 a month for their premium packages. However, Google Slides and Keynote are free, so we recommend those for customers on a budget.

Q: Is Canva better than PowerPoint?

Canva and PowerPoint are both great programs that offer about equal value. It’s much easier to create a beautiful, eye-catching presentation in Canva, but PowerPoint’s advanced features give you more options. If you need to make slick-looking professional presentations on a frequent basis, we recommend Canva for its superior ease-of-use.

Q: Does Adobe have presentation software?

Adobe had its own competitor to PowerPoint, Adobe Presenter. The company recently ended support for Presenter on June 1, 2022.

Final thoughts on the best presentation software

While everyone wants to use the best program for the job, the truth is that all presentation builders have a lot in common with each other. If you’re familiar with one, it often makes sense to stay put. Despite all the similarities, it can take some time to learn a new system. If you’re constrained and frustrated, or are using presentation software for the first time, you should consider a wide range of options beyond PowerPoint.

Though alternatives like Beautiful.ai, Canva, or (especially) Prezi cost a bit more, they each have strong features that may work better for your purposes. That said, sometimes the most popular presentation software options are the best. If you don’t have specific expectations or need to clear a high bar for design, PowerPoint and free options like Google Slides should work well, and have the benefit of wide adoption in corporate workplaces.

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Best logo design software of 2023 https://www.popsci.com/gear/best-logo-design-software/ Mon, 20 Jun 2022 13:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=448756
Logo displayed on multiple screens
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Brand image starts with a strong logo. From vector to display, here are the tools to put your stamp on your symbol.

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Logo displayed on multiple screens
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Best Overall Adobe Illustrator is the best overall logo design software. Adobe Illustrator
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Industry-leading design tools featuring a powerful, though expensive vector editor.

Best Free Squarespace Logo Maker is the best free logo design software. Squarespace Logo Maker
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Free web-based logo maker with lots of great icons from Noun Project.

Best For Beginners Canva is the best logo design software for beginners. Canva
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Lots of discrete web-based tools that unlock with investment and are great for any design task you’ll run across.

So you’ve got your concept, you know what you want the brand image to say, maybe you already have a set of loose styles worked out: saffron and burgundy with a curling serif font or a bold paprika-red with sans-serif type. Now it’s time to make ideas into identity. The best logo design software gives you the digital tools you need to hone in on branding that will stand out in the marketplace, whether you’re a new business owner looking to save money with a DIY logo job or a digital creator adding logo design to your skill set.

Top logo design software has the tools you’ll need to adjust all aspects of a logo, whether it’s a simple wordmark, a unique hand-illustrated icon, an abstract symbol, or some combination of elements. Most software will allow you to subtly work type, adjusting the curl in a “Q,” or play with how a capital “Y” intersects with a horizontal iconographic stroke. In the best software you’ll then be able to detail the color palette, apply the logo to different design assets, and ready your files for print, web, and beyond. Most software for logos uses a vector format that can expand and contract in size without losing quality, but some will allow you to bring raster art into the equation as well, incorporating photos and digitally painted illustrations into the mix. 

There are a lot of elements that go into good logo design software and, because of this, some design platforms are easier to master than others. Some software will cost you hundreds of dollars in subscription fees and require months of practice, yet will justify that investment by providing the tools to create truly unique designs. Others are made for the beginner and provide simple tools for creating logos. Some even use algorithms and artificial intelligence to help you—delivering a computer-generated design that’s easily customized to fit the aesthetic of your business. If you’re looking for a good logo, the best logo design software is out there for you, whatever your skill level.

How we chose the best logo design software

There are a lot of different logo design software packages out there and which one is the best for you will largely depend on your goals, your skill level, and your commitment to learning necessary tools. It was important to me to include programs representing a diverse array of skill levels on this list. As a trained designer, illustrator, and artist, I featured my favorite logo design tools here. I also went through and tested multiple software packages that I know by reputation, comparing and contrasting their various benefits. I ranked my choices based on a few criteria:

Ease of use is one of the first qualities anyone looks for when they’re considering adopting a new software package. Generally, the most powerful logo design suites are also the hardest to learn, but easier suites can still deliver suitable toolsets. This list covers some of the easiest beginner-friendly suites as well as some of the more rigorous design industry standards.

Scalability is very important in logo designs. Most logo software uses a vector format. Vector art uses a file type that can expand or contract in size without losing detail. Raster formats, on the other hand, create images in maps of pixels that can only be expanded so much before they lose quality and become obviously pixelated. Vector art is superior to pixel art in situations where a design needs to be scaled up or down to easily print on a business card, or the side of a building, and works a bit like a digital stencil. While vector tools are most important for logo design, some of the best logo design software also contains raster tools. 

Compatibility with other design software can be a major bonus. The Adobe Suite is famous for its compatibility from one software to another within the Adobe family. I highlighted how different software suites are compatible with other families of software wherever it was applicable. I also highlighted what common platforms each software suite works on, be they Windows, macOS, iPad, etc.

Detail can make a difference. Some of the software on this list offer simple design tools that are easy to grasp for beginners. Others allow you to descend deep into the grit of it all. The most powerful logo design software gives you absolute control of the details, even if learning the tools required to harness that power takes time. 

Things to consider before buying the best logo design software

Before you commit to a software package there are a few things to consider.

Trials

Many of the more expensive software for logo design offer free trials. It’s often a good idea to take advantage of these before you buy, as they can help you get a feel for whether the software meets your needs.

Student deals

If you’re already thinking about going back to school to brush up on some design skills, consider whether it will be worth waiting to buy your logo design software. More expensive packages will often give substantial student discounts. This can amount to real financial savings that will offset the cost of your education, as well as your software.

Learning support

Much of the best logo design software is used widely. When you’re trying and failing to achieve something in the software it’s useful to look for community guides. Many questions you might have about logo design software are easily answered on community forums or in YouTube videos.

Budget options

There are lots of great cheap or free software for logo design. While it might seem like you have to spend lots of money to get the pro-level design tools, great things are frequently achieved on a budget or free software package. If you’re on a budget don’t feel compelled to spend more than you need to.

The best logo design software: Reviews & Recommendations

Best overall: Adobe Illustrator

Adobe

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Why it made the cut: Whether you’re detailing the curves of an ampersand, drafting a custom favicon for a client’s website, or applying colors from a design stylebook to logo variations across a website, Adobe Illustrator has all the tools you need for professional-grade work. 

Specs

  • Vector / Raster: Vector
  • System: macOS, PC, Linux, iPad, more
  • Price Structure: Monthly subscription

Pros

  • Industry-leading tools for everything from drawing to 3D fonts
  • Streamlined workflow segues with other Adobe apps, including Indesign and Photoshop
  • Lots of support and community content

Cons

  • Steep learning curve
  • Expensive subscription

Yeah, the learning curve might make you feel like you’ve gone back to high school, but when you master Adobe Illustrator the results are indisputably professional. With industry-leading tools for all parts of the design process, Illustrator has everything you need for path editing, drawing, coloring, and creating 2D and 3D shapes. Use the detailed shape editor tools for creating icons, color them with custom swatches you’ve picked out using Adobe Color, brand that image with the custom type you tweaked in Illustrator, apply a gradient to your type, then carry all those assets with you as you finish the faux-gold digital mockup in Photoshop and take it to print in real gold with InDesign. It will also work on the iPad Pro with your Apple Pencil. It’s a lot of power and it’s all yours with Illustrator and the Adobe Creative Cloud.

Illustrator offers an incredible amount of power but it’s also not a thing most people can afford to keep around to casually play with. The program has a notoriously steep learning curve (though once you get it, you get it); it’s also expensive. The Adobe Suite seems to just keep going up in price. The multi-software plan is now quite heftily priced: one month of Adobe Suite is equivalent to the total cost of buying Affinity Designer (for good). That’s why it’s a good idea to be sure you want to invest the time and money into learning Adobe Illustrator before you buy. Luckily, you can get a free trial on the website. Still, if you’re serious about professional-grade logos with the illustration and type to support them, Illustrator (and maybe the whole Adobe Suite) is likely a justifiable business cost. 

Best for beginners: Canva

Canva

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Why it made the cut: Canva’s scaling price model and layers of tools make it both a newb-friendly logo editor for simple designs and a pro-grade powerhouse. 

Specs

  • Vector / Raster: Raster, vector .svg with pro subscription
  • System: Web-based service
  • Price Structure: Free and paid plans

Pros

  • Easy to use for beginners
  • Powerful enough for pros
  • Easy discrete design tools for lots of different applications

Cons

  • Requires a paid subscription for many services including vector bounces
  • Less agile for certain crossover tasks

Canva is ready for the internet … and made of it. This browser-based design suite has all the tools most people will need for design, whether they’re using one of its built-in templates for a web page, putting together menus, or designing a logo. Its basic free features make it a great starting place and its affordable pro features make it a great place to grow as a designer.

The logo designer is beginner ready. It starts you off with a few simple prompts, gives you a number of customizable layouts to choose from, and from there it’s easy to drag and drop in a wide range of icons, customize colors, and edit your fonts. The font book includes a number of familiar favorites from Google Fonts, including the much-loved Alegraya family. A wider font selection is unlocked with a pro subscription. After your icon and fonts are locked into place (and maybe animated), it’s easy to bounce out your file as a low-resolution image. Canva has newly unlocked .svg vector formats as well, but this is only available with a pro subscription.

Canva logo design software example
An example of a Canva logo … Gabriel Morgan

Canva is a wonderful place to start and a solid place to grow. It doesn’t have as much room for the pro designer as premium options like the Adobe Suite, but design magic is worked in Canva all the time. With its affordable pricing for a pro subscription, easy web-based format, and free tools, Canva is a great option that shines especially brightly for those just starting out. 

Best for 3D logos: Affinity Designer

Affinity

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Why it made the cut: For a one-time price, Affinity designer offers a powerful workstation for logo designers, that harnesses industry-leading vector editor tools in tandem with raster support and 3D.

Specs

  • Vector / Raster: Vector and raster
  • System: macOS, Windows, iPad
  • Price Structure: One-time fee

Pros

  • Powerful vector tools for icons and fonts
  • Raster elements can be incorporated in the app
  • Solid 3D design elements
  • One-time price
  • Works well with Affinity Photo and Affinity Publisher

Cons

  • Not as deep or feature-rich as Adobe suite

Released in 2014, the Affinity suite is a relative newcomer to the design software industry that aims squarely at taking on the Adobe monopoly. With lots of great tools and features that Adobe users will intuitively recognize, Affinity Designer isn’t a hard switch for Adobe users that have grown tired of Creative Cloud’s ever-swelling fees and costs. Much like Illustrator, Affinity gives you control over curves and outlines, enabling you to easily edit text, design the wordmark that your brand will be known for, or create vector-based illustrations to add to your webpage. Where the package pushes the envelope is in its simple combination of vector and raster control, allowing you to easily ornament your vector art with raster brushes, sleek digital painting, and pixel effects.

Because of its powerful set of tools, Affinity Designer is a great choice for any logo designer who’s looking to add unique hand-drawn elements, 3D letters, or complex shapes to their project’s stylebook. Compatible with iPad, it makes it easy to hand draw a shape with your Apple Pencil, then port it to your computer for more precise detailing. 

For a very moderate price, Affinity designer is probably the best value software package out there for a designer. It’s certainly not the cheapest, but its combination of decent ease of use, powerful tools that can compete with Adobe, and native raster support make it a supremely good investment. For the price of one month of Adobe CC, you’ll have the toolset contained in Affinity Designer forever. While it’s certainly not as cheap as a service like Tailor Brands, its vastly more powerful toolset makes it an undeniably great deal. 

Best for icons: Procreate

Procreate

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: Famously great for digital painting, Procreate might not export vector art for logos but it’s still an excellent place to compose for iPad owners, even if you’ll need another app to finish your creations as vectors.

Specs 

  • Vector / Raster: Raster
  • System: iPad
  • Price Structure: One-time fee

Pros 

  • Impeccable and intuitive tools for digital painting and drawing
  • Decent font support
  • Very affordable one-time price (for iPad owners)
  • Huge community with lots of user-created content

Cons

  • No vector editors or .svg export
  • Doesn’t play the best with cross-platform workflow for iPad uses with a Windows comp

Procreate isn’t explicitly for logo design and its glaring lack of vector exports might make some balk at its inclusion on this list. But with its exceptional digital drawing tools and intuitive brush control that will resonate with any designer who grew up using a pen and sketchpad, I stump for Procreate’s inclusion here—as a superpowered sketchbook composition space for any designer that works on iPad. 

Procreate is made for iPad. With an Apple Pencil, Procreate offers brush control that’s smooth as whipped butter. Its layer controls are intuitive and its selection, manipulation, transform, and transparency tools just work. Easily set a grid in 3-point perspective, draw a shape inside it, tool it, nudge it, select your shape and airbrush it, paint into it, then export it out. Whether you’re drawing shapes that will be finished in a vector editor, or simply sketching ideas, Procreate is one of the best software packages for any visual creator.

While Procreate won’t finish your designs in .svg or give you the precise curve controls you’ll get in a premium editor, these issues are mended when you bring another app into the fold. One of the easiest workflows out there for vectorizing your Procreate designs is the (independently worthy) free Vectornator app. Simply export your designs from Procreate as .jpg and use the auto-trace feature inside Vectornator. Once the system has turned your design into a vector, use Vectornator’s toolbox to tweak your vector art. If you’ll be working between PC or Mac and your iPad, then open-source Inkscape’s auto-trace feature offers another similarly simple way to bring your Procreate drawings into the vector space. 

All in all, Procreate is an excellent, intuitive drawing tool for the logo designer working on iPad, even if it doesn’t natively operate in vectors. It won’t take you all the way the same way that Affinity Designer will but—with its very price tag and a workflow that plays well with a number of free vector editor apps—it will still get you there … and you might even create something extra special along the way.

Best free: Squarespace Logo Maker

Squarespace

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: Famous for its clean, easy-to-build websites, Squarespace’s simple logo builder is free to use, and creates nice logos with zero financial investment. 

Specs

  • Vector / Raster: Raster
  • System: Web-based service
  • Price Structure: Free

Pros

  • Free service
  • Nice looking results
  • Supremely easy to use

Cons

  • Lacks that unique factor
  • Uses icons from Noun Project which has its own legal terms

Websites: They always look best with a kicking logo. As a company that’s made its considerable reputation by delivering all-in-one website design tools, Squarespace knows that well. Presumably, that’s why they invested in offering the Squarespace Logo Maker to the public free of charge … aesthetics sell. 

The Squarespace Logo Maker is a super easy-to-use, free web-based logo maker that builds you a simple logo in your internet browser. Type in your brand’s name, fill out a few details, then quickly cycle through a massive library of icons. Once you select an icon (or choose not to), use the built-in type tool to play with your logo’s text. While the type tool only allows you to cycle through a few pretty standard fonts that will be familiar to any Squarespace user, the icon library takes advantage of the Noun Project’s vast trove of icons to give you some room to play. 

Squarespace logo design software example
An example of a Squarespace logo … Gabriel Morgan

The logo service is free to use after you sign up for an account, and supplies you with a decently high-definition .png file, which can be vectorized in another free service like Inkscape (an amazingly powerful free vector editor that’s also worth a look). However, the icons are supplied by Noun Project and come with a bit of licensing gray area for certain uses. Noun Project’s website does offer great rates on icons, so if you plan to make millions off your free Squarespace logo it could be worth your time to pay Noun Project the few dollars they ask for full professional rights. All in all, this service is super easy to use and free, making it a great choice for a beginner, what it lacks is that wow factor that gives your brand extra cred. 

FAQs

Q: Which software is best for logo design?

Adobe Illustrator is the industry standard for logo design and is the best overall software for logo design. However, there are other great options that are often easier to use and better priced for non-professional designers.

Q: Which free software is best for logo design?

Squarespace Logo Maker is a super easy-to-use free service for logo design. For a simple logo made for an online business, it does a great job that’s easy enough for a beginner. Canva also offers an excellent free service, though its more advanced features will cost you.

Q: Is Photoshop good for logo design?

Photoshop is a powerful design platform that can certainly make good logos. However, Photoshop works in raster art rather than vector art. It won’t save images as scalable vector files.

Q: Is the Wix logo maker free?

Wix’s services allow you to make a logo for free; however, downloads will cost money. More advanced features will generally cost you still more.

Q: What software do most graphic designers use?

The Adobe suite is still the industry standard for graphic design. Most designers are taught on Illustrator and Photoshop in school and it remains the most comprehensive tool book for design.

Q: Is Adobe Illustrator good for logo design?

Illustrator slaps for logo design; its tool set is very good for logo-based graphic design. It remains the industry standard.

Q: Which is better for logo design, Photoshop or Illustrator?

Adobe Illustrator is better for logo design. Illustrator allows you to work with vectors that scale easily for lots of different applications. Photoshop is still a powerful tool for logo design, but its raster-based system isn’t as helpful for a logo designer.

Final thoughts on the best logo design software

The best logo design software comes with the toolset you’ll need to build a brand identity that people recognize and respect. A great logo sets the tone of your business. You might choose a wordmark, like the timeless Coca-Cola logo, or you might choose an icon aiming to emulate something like the ever-recognizable Twitter symbol. Either way, logo design software will help you get there. If you’re after a free service that will make the job easy, take a tour of the Squarespace Logo Maker, you’ll have a simple logo in under 10 minutes. If you want software that you can grow with, the web-based service Canva offers powerful tools for free and a reasonable subscription price will unlock more features to take your designs to the next level. Affinity Designer is worth a look for anyone who wants pro-level tools at a reasonable one-time price, and it offers a great vector/raster crossover space. Finally, Adobe Illustrator is always there for those who want the most serious tools for the job. 

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4 simple ways to upgrade your boring DIY cutting boards https://www.popsci.com/diy/diy-cutting-board-tips/ Thu, 16 Jun 2022 12:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=450568
A DIY cutting board with accent borders made out of a different type of wood than the rest of the piece.
We don't care how nice your boards look—you can always upgrade. Jean Levasseur

Make those chopping blocks look sharp.

The post 4 simple ways to upgrade your boring DIY cutting boards appeared first on Popular Science.

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A DIY cutting board with accent borders made out of a different type of wood than the rest of the piece.
We don't care how nice your boards look—you can always upgrade. Jean Levasseur

Making a basic cutting board is almost a rite of passage for new woodworkers because it’s a relatively easy project and quite forgiving of mistakes. After all, it’s designed to be cut and scratched, so if you miss a few spots while sanding or the final product isn’t perfectly square, it’s no big deal.

But making a simple, rectangular board can be boring, especially if you’re churning them out for sale, or as gifts. Before you make yet another bland block, think about incorporating one or more of these easy upgrades to start setting your work apart.

Use different kinds of wood

One of the easiest ways to bring a more refined aesthetic to your boards is to vary your wood choices. If you typically make your chopping blocks from solid maple or cherry, for example, consider adding walnut accent stripes. Walnut is widely available, easy to work with, and is on the less-expensive end of the fancier woods.  

To start, use your table saw to cut a few strips of walnut the same length and height as your board, each around a quarter-inch wide. If you generally make face grain cutting boards, cut an inch-wide piece off of each long side of your existing cutting board, but don’t throw it away. Put the walnut strips along the freshly cut edges, then place the cutoff pieces back along the outside of the walnut and glue it all together. If you make edge grain boards, put the walnut strips in place near the outer edge during your regular glue-up process.  

If you’re looking to get really fancy, consider upgrading the walnut to padauk, purpleheart, zebrawood, or some combination. And you can vary the widths of the accent boards until you find a design you’re happy with. 

Once you’re feeling confident, you can even start to explore end grain, chaos, and woven boards, but those require much more work. 

Change the angles of your edges

Another simple way to give a professional feel to your boards is to change the angles of your edges and corners. One of my personal favorite styles is to bevel the bottom of all four edges.  To do this, set your table saw to the bevel angle you want—I use 35 degrees purely because I like the look of it—and cut a bevel on all four edges. If your table saw is large enough, use the miter gauge to keep the board stable while making the crosscuts on the shorter edges of the boards.  

You can also change up your edges with a router and the right bit. On smaller, thinner boards, I like to use a quarter-inch roundover bit and my palm router to create a rounded edge. You can also use a V bit to create a 45-degree bevel with the router, or simply use any other bit that strikes your fancy. Test out several different designs on a piece of scrap wood to find the one that looks best to you.

Install handles to turn a cutting board into a charcuterie board

A DIY cutting board transforms into a DIY charcuterie board if you just add handles.
Now it’s for cutting and lifting. Jean Levasseur

Everyone likes to say “charcuterie,” so everyone must love charcuterie boards. You can turn many cutting boards into one of these serving trays simply by adding handles. If you have a router, you can route handles into the sides of the board like I did while making my bathtub tray. You can also route handles directly into the sides of the board, which is a bit more work but makes a more functional board because food can’t fall through the handle holes. 

[Related: Craft an impressive cutting board in 8 easy steps]

For my serving boards, however, I think cabinet hardware makes the biggest impact for the least effort. There are numerous styles to choose from, in all kinds of finishes, and they’re easy to install. Just drill holes through the board large enough to fit the hardware bolts, then screw the handles into place. It’s an instant upgrade, and you’ll only spend about five minutes measuring and a few minutes drilling.

If you make a lot of these, build a handle jig to position the holes rather than measuring every time. I made mine out of a piece of scrap half-inch plywood about 8 inches long. I drilled holes 3 inches apart and 1 inch inset from the edge of the board, then marked the exact center point between the two holes. To use the jig, I just mark the center of the cutting board, line up the centerline of my jig with that mark, and then mark the two hole positions. Perfect fit, every time.  

Carve a juice groove to add function and flair

You’ll usually see juice grooves on larger boards, but you can install one on any board you want. These grooves are designed to collect the liquid that runs out of meat while you’re cutting it, so you don’t make a mess on the counter. They require a router with a cove bit, and while they’re simple enough to make, they can still be a bit tricky to pull off because the router can jerk and jump if you’re not careful.

Essentially, all you do to make a juice groove is run the router along a straightedge, cutting the groove about half an inch in from the edge of the board. However, cutting a juice groove is much easier if you take the time to build a jig. Don’t try to cut the whole groove in one pass, either. Take shallow, ⅛-inch-or-so passes until you reach your desired depth. I typically make mine between ¼ and ⅜ inches deep, but this is another design choice you need to make for yourself. 

These ideas, of course, are just a starting place. Find the combination of looks, accents, and accessories that matches the aesthetic that you’re going for, and your cutting boards will never fall flat again.

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Don’t waste banana peels: Turn them into tasty vegan ‘pulled pork’ https://www.popsci.com/diy/vegan-bbq-pulled-pork-recipe/ Fri, 27 May 2022 17:09:10 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=446673
A vegan pulled pork sandwich made with shredded banana peels covered in homemade barbecue sauce.
It's all about the flavors anyway. Alisha McDarris

Pig out.

The post Don’t waste banana peels: Turn them into tasty vegan ‘pulled pork’ appeared first on Popular Science.

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A vegan pulled pork sandwich made with shredded banana peels covered in homemade barbecue sauce.
It's all about the flavors anyway. Alisha McDarris

The average US household wastes 32 percent of its food, costing each family about $1,600 a year. While everyone can practice more responsible shopping and be better about eating ingredients or leftovers before they go bad, some of that waste, like fruit peels, can’t be avoided. Or so you may think.

In fact, you can eat apple cores and kiwi skins, use orange peels for garnish, and yes, even chow down on banana peels. Given the proper application of heat, sauce and spices, these oft-discarded skins make a pretty darn good plant-based substitute for barbecue pulled-pork sandwiches.

Believe it. The idea may not have caught on in the US yet, but people in Venezuela, India, and Southeast Asia have been cooking and eating banana peels for years. And not only are they edible, they’re good for you, too: banana peels contain potassium, fiber, antioxidants, vitamins B6 and B12, magnesium, and even protein. 

Annually, the average American eats 13.4 pounds of bananas—our favorite fresh fruit. But since peels can comprise 35 percent of the fruit, a large portion of what we buy goes in the trash. Eating the peels could reduce a significant amount of food waste. And by the way, discarded food is the single largest category of material that ends up in municipal landfills, producing methane—a potent greenhouse gas—as it breaks down.

So why haven’t we been preparing banana peels, caramelizing them in sugar, adding them to smoothies, or frying them up in barbecue sauce? It seems Americans can’t seem to get over the ick factor—there are just some things we as a culture have deemed unfit for consumption. But if you’re open-minded enough to give banana peels a shot, we think these barbecue banana peel sandwiches are the perfect introduction.

First, choose the perfect bananas

Like with many dishes, ingredient selection is important. While you can toss very ripe or soft peels into banana bread or a smoothie, you’ll need to buy fruit that’s just underripe if you want a similar texture to pulled pork. The bananas should have tinges of green around their tops and bottoms, or at least be completely yellow and still firm. Soft, brown banana peels will get mushy and unpalatable when cooked.

[Related: Craving a radioactive snack? Grab a banana.]

When you find bananas at the perfect level of ripeness, try to confirm they’re pesticide-free. If you can’t, clean or wash the unpeeled bananas very well, like you would with any fruit that has an edible peel.

Now, don’t do a 180 and waste the actual fruit: eat it as a pre-meal snack, make a fruit salad, whip up some banana pudding, or freeze some slices to use later.

Stats

  • Time: 20 minutes (prep), 10 to 15 minutes (cooking)
  • Material cost: $10 to $15
  • Difficulty: Moderate

Ingredients

  • 6 banana peels, scraped clean and shredded
  • 4 hamburger buns
  • 3/4 cup of water
  • 1 tablespoon of olive oil
  • 1/2 teaspoon of cumin
  • 1 teaspoon of chili powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon of ground pepper
  • 1 teaspoon of garlic powder
  • 1 teaspoon of liquid smoke
  • 2 teaspoons of apple cider vinegar
  • 1/2 tablespoon of brown mustard
  • 2 tablespoons of soy sauce
  • 1/2 cup of barbecue sauce, plus more to taste

Tools

  • Sharp knife
  • Spoon
  • Fork
  • Cutting board
  • Medium (or large) pan with a lid
  • Spatula (or flipper)

Instructions

1. Prepare the bananas. Cut off the top and bottom quarter-inch of each fruit and peel them, ideally into four sections. This will help ensure the peels are fairly narrow, about the width of a dinner fork. Use a spoon to scrape out any remaining white banana flesh, which you can compost.

2. Shred the banana peels with a fork. Try to end up with thin strips similar to the size of pulled pork. Then, cut the strips into 2- to 3-inch-long pieces. It’ll take some elbow grease.

A person shredding banana peels with a fork on a teal plastic cutting board, with a knife on the cutting board and banana peels all around it.
A fork is really just four little knives if you think about it. Alisha McDarris

3. Make the sauce. In a bowl large enough to contain all the shreds, combine the water, olive oil, cumin, chili powder, pepper, garlic powder, liquid smoke, apple cider vinegar, mustard and soy sauce. Stir to mix.

4. Add the shredded banana peels to the sauce. Then, toss to coat them in delicious flavor.

5. Cook the peels. Heat a pan with a lid over medium heat and add the contents of the bowl to the pan. Stir, then cover the pan with the lid. Let everything steam for about 10 minutes. The cooking time will depend on the ripeness of the banana peels you’re using, so start taste-testing around 8 minutes in. If the pan starts to look dry, add more water a few tablespoons at a time.

6. Finish cooking. When the shreds are no longer crunchy, but not mushy, remove the lid and add the half-cup of barbeque sauce. Sauté the shreds and sauce for another 1 to 2 minutes, tasting and adding additional salt and sauce if desired.

7. Build your sandwiches. Remove the pan from the heat and transfer the saucy shreds to hamburger buns. Top with pickles, coleslaw, lettuce, shredded carrots, or whatever your heart desires, and enjoy immediately.

That’s what we call a cheap, plant-based meal that reduces food waste, saves money, and tastes great doing it. Just don’t expect there to be leftovers.

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Make table saw projects easier with a DIY crosscut sled https://www.popsci.com/diy/diy-crosscut-sled/ Thu, 26 May 2022 12:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=446093
A DIY crosscut sled on a table saw in a woodworker's workshop.
Just remember not to let your hands get too close to the blade. Jean Levasseur

This versatile jig will change the way you work.

The post Make table saw projects easier with a DIY crosscut sled appeared first on Popular Science.

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A DIY crosscut sled on a table saw in a woodworker's workshop.
Just remember not to let your hands get too close to the blade. Jean Levasseur

A good table saw is one of the first tools you should buy when you begin woodworking. These saws enable long, precise, straight cuts—critical for secure joinery and clean, professional edges. Table saws are also incredibly versatile, because you can build numerous jigs and sleds to increase their capabilities. Personally, I have a jointer sled, a tapering jig, a box joint jig, and most useful of all, a crosscut sled.

Crosscut sleds allow you to accurately and safely cut wood down to a precise length. What’s more, by adding a stop block, you can make quick, repeatable cuts—perfect for batching out a lot of same-sized pieces. When I’m cutting wood for drawers, for example, I always use my crosscut sled to ensure all the pieces are the same size. 

Of course, you can do the same job with a miter saw, but I’ve found that the crosscut sled offers more control and gives a better cut. I use my miter saw to cut wood to a rough length, then grab my crosscut sled to trim those boards down to their final size.

While you can add all kinds of upgrades, such as hold-down clamps, integrated stop blocks, and miter jigs, every woodworker should build a basic crosscut sled, and anyone can.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a face mask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

  • Time: 2 to 3 hours
  • Material cost: $50 to $75
  • Difficulty: Easy

Materials

Tools

Instructions

1. Decide how big your crosscut sled will be. Its size depends on two things: how wide your table saw is and the dimensions of the largest wood you want to be able to cut. The sled can hang a few inches over the edges of your table saw, but you don’t want it to sag. Similarly, the entire board you’re cutting should fit on the sled, with minimal overhang. I wanted to cut 24-inch boards, so I made my sled 36 inches wide. This gave me 12 inches on one side of the blade and 24 inches on the other.

2. Cut the plywood to length. One sheet will be the base of your sled, while the other will be cut into pieces and used to build the fence and stabilizer board. Because these are structural components, both sheets need to span the width of your crosscut sled. Cut them to that size (in my case, it was 36 inches).

  • Note: The fence will hold your work perpendicular to the blade, while the stabilizer will simply keep the sled from falling apart.

3. Rip the fence and stabilizer boards to width. For stability and strength, both the fence and stabilizer should be made of multiple boards glued together. My fence is made of three strips of plywood glued together, while the stabilizer is made from two. The fence and stabilizer should both be taller than your table saw’s fully raised blade. In my case, the blade rises just over 3 inches, so I ripped the five fence and stabilizer boards to 4 inches wide each.

[Related: Tune up your table saw the right way]

4. Construct the fence and stabilizer. Glue three of the plywood boards together, face to face, for the fence, and the remaining two face to face for the stabilizer. Try to keep the boards as close to flush as possible to make flattening and squaring them easier in steps 6 and 7 .  

  • Pro tip: If you have a long enough level, clamp it to the face of the fence while the glue dries to keep it perfectly straight. A crooked fence means crooked cuts.

5. Cut runners for the miter sled. The sled runners will slide freely in your table saw’s miter slots, and the better they fit, the more accurate your cuts will be. Well-fit runners will also make the crosscut sled easier to move. The runners should be the same length as your sled, the same width as the miter slots on your table saw, and about 1/16-inch shallower than the miter slot depth. I made mine out of scrap wood, but if you don’t have any of that lying around, you can just buy a small piece of pine or poplar.

  • Pro tip: Err on the side of making the runners too large at first. You can always trim or sand these down to make them fit. The runners should slide freely in the miter slots without any side-to-side movement.
The underside of a DIY crosscut sled, showing the runners that go into the table saw's miter slots.
It’s called a sled for a reason: check out those runners. Jean Levasseur

6. Square and flatten the fence. Once the glue on the fence is dry, flatten the bottom of the piece and square it to the face of the fence. The easiest way to do this is with a jointer, but if you don’t have one, you can do this on your table saw. Once the fence’s bottom and face are square, flatten the top of the piece as well. 

7. Flatten the stabilizer board. You don’t need to be as precise with this piece as you were with the fence. Just flatten the bottom so it sits flush across the full length of the sled. 

8. Install the base onto the runners. Place one or two pennies or washers into each of the miter slots and put the runners into place on top of them. The pennies should bump the tops of the runners just above the table top. Put a few dabs of CA glue onto each of the runners. 

Make sure the table saw blade is lowered all the way, then lay the sled base flat onto the runners, using the table saw fence to keep the plywood as square to the table as possible. The closer to square you can get this step, the easier it will be to square the fence up later. 

Give the CA glue the manufacturer’s recommended time to dry, then flip the sled over. Countersink three holes along the center of each runner, with one at each end and one more in the middle. Fasten them in place with ½-inch wood screws.

9. Install the stabilizer board. On the far side of the sled, install the stabilizer board, countersinking holes through the bottom of the sled base and then using 2-inch screws to fasten it in place. You can just line this up against the edge of the sled—it does not need to be perfectly square. As a reminder, you want this to stand tall along its long edge, as if you’re building a wall around your sled.

10. Make a cut three-quarters of the way through the sled. Move the sled out of the way and raise the blade of your table saw to about 1 inch. Place the sled runners into the miter slots, turn on the saw, and push the sled through, stopping when the blade gets to 5 or 6 inches from the fence edge of the sled. This creates a line that shows exactly where the blade will run on the sled.

[Related: Keep your workshop tidy with this DIY dust collector]

11. Square the sled fence to the blade and install it. Position the fence along the near side of your sled, the same way you installed the stabilizer. Then use your square to ensure it is perpendicular to the cut line for the saw. Countersink a hole through the bottom of the sled base on one end of the fence, approximately on its center-line, and screw it to the sled using a 2-inch screw. That screw will serve as a pivot point as you fine-tune your fence position with your square. 

Once the fence is as square as you can get it, install a countersunk second screw on the other end of the fence, approximately mirroring the pivot screw. This locks the fence in place. If you’re lucky, the fence will be perfectly square, but you’ll need to test it. 

12. Test that the fence is square using the five-cut method. There are lots of videos on how to use the five-cut method, and I recommend this one from Bike City Woodworks. He makes the process simple to understand and has a calculator you can use for the math.

In a nutshell, you’ll cut a sliver off of all four sides of a rectangular board, working clockwise, and then cut an inch-long strip off of the first side you cut. Measure the far and near end of that final strip with good digital calipers. Plug those measurements into the calculator, along with the distance from the pivot screw to the end of the fence, and it will tell you how much you need to adjust the fence. If you have a pair of mechanic’s feeler gauges, these can help you make minuscule adjustments. If you don’t, as I do not, you can use playing cards, business cards, old IDs, or any thin object you have lying around the shop. Just measure whatever you use with your calipers so you know how thick it is. 

If the numbers show your fence needs adjusting, remove the non-pivot screw from the fence, adjust its position based on the calculations, and then re-install the fence using a brand new hole. In theory, your fence should be square, but you should repeat the five-cut method to make sure. Adjust as needed until you’re within a tolerance you’re comfortable with—typically one-thousandth of an inch is great.

When the fence is square, countersink holes along the full length of the fence and use more 2-inch screws to secure it. I put three screws on the short side and four on the long.

  • Warning: Make sure you don’t put any screws where the blade could hit them. Hitting a screw with the saw can damage your sled, damage your saw, and possibly send dangerous shrapnel flying.

13. Install a “don’t touch here” block. The main danger of using a crosscut sled is not paying attention to where you’re pushing from. If you let your thumb slip over the blade area and push the sled all the way through, you’ll cut your thumb. So I glue a scrap of 2-by-4 to the back of the fence, hiding the cut line. This is a physical and visible reminder of exactly where to never put my fingers.

14. Wax the runners and the bottom of the sled. The final step is to make sure the sled slides smoothly and easily across your table saw. You shouldn’t need a lot of force to push it through. Applying a coat of paste wax to the bottom and runners will help it glide. 

Using a clean rag, rub the wax over all of the bottom surfaces, making sure to get the sides of the runners. Let the wax dry for a few minutes, per the manufacturer’s instructions, then buff it off. The sled should feel almost effortless as it moves over the saw.  

And then get cutting! If you’re like me, you’ll find the crosscut sled far easier, more accurate, and less stressful to use than a miter saw.

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Anyone can be a streamer. Here’s how to start. https://www.popsci.com/diy/how-to-become-a-streamer/ Sun, 15 May 2022 13:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=443271
streaming-set-up-for-gaming
Going live in 5, 4, 3, 2, 1. ELLA DON / Unsplash

Fame may be just a click away.

The post Anyone can be a streamer. Here’s how to start. appeared first on Popular Science.

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streaming-set-up-for-gaming
Going live in 5, 4, 3, 2, 1. ELLA DON / Unsplash

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Every month, 8 million people go live on Twitch, broadcasting their passions and talents to the entire world. And at any given moment, there are 2.5 million people on the platform watching content including video games, music, cooking, and art. 

If you’re one of those viewers, you’ve probably wondered about putting yourself out there and becoming a streamer yourself. You definitely can, but there are some things you need to know first. 

Build your setup

You can’t become a streamer without gear. Different types of streams call for different setups, but if you just want to try your hand at streaming before spending your hard-earned cash, you can go for the most basic setup of them all: a computer.

Depending on the amount of RAM in your machine, you should be able to run streaming software (OBS Studio is free and the most popular) and a video game of your choice. Keep in mind that more basic computers with 6GB or 8GB of RAM may struggle to stream more resource-intensive games that require more processing power. Your computer is arguably the most important part of your setup, so if you find your machine is responsible for any lag in your game or stream, upgrade it before you do anything else. 

[Related: Best streaming devices]

If buying a new computer is not an option and you have an old, but still-functioning laptop lying around, you can use your most powerful machine solely for gaming and the other for streaming. Dual computer setups are slightly more complicated than running everything off a single machine, so you’ll need a capture card to bridge the gap between the devices. You’ll also need to buy one if you’re streaming console gameplay or using anything other than a webcam for your video feed. 

When you’ve got the proper processing power, you’ll be ready to step things up. If you want people to see and hear you while you’re streaming, you’ll need a camera and a microphone. But if you have a working smartphone, long-time streamer and pro-gamer Tyler Blevins, better known as Ninja, says you already have all you need.  

“You can use your phone as your camera and simply buy a mount for as little as $8,” he says in his MasterClass, How to become a streamer

From there, you can build a setup as intricate as your budget will allow. It’s a good idea to start with a proper microphone, as streamers agree faulty audio is a bigger deal-breaker for viewers than a subpar video stream. After that, upgrade your camera and invest in better lighting if you haven’t already done so. These elements are especially important if you’ll be streaming something other than video games—like cooking or art. 

Finally, pay close attention to your internet connection speed. Good streaming quality requires a high upload speed, as opposed to a fast download speed, which is better for, say, a smooth Netflix experience. The bare minimum amount of bitrate you’ll need to stream is 5 megabytes per second, says Ninja, and anything above 10Mbps will get the job done. If you don’t know how fast your actual upload speed is, you can take an online internet speed test to find out.

Craft your streaming persona

Upgrading your setup is always a good idea if you’re really into streaming. But if you want to see your community grow and eventually try your luck at being a full-time streamer, know that you could spend Jeff Bezos’ entire fortune on gear and still not get more viewers or subscribers. 

For that, you’ll need to work on your content and decide what kind of streamer you want to be—a gamer, a cook, an artist, a musician, or whatever else. The good news is that you don’t have to make up your mind right away, and you can try different things along the way. 

“From my experience, streaming is a constantly evolving art form, so finding your ‘thing’ as you go and being open to trying new things has always made sense to me,” Ninja says over email. 

Once you decide what you want to stream, it’s time to figure out what kind of entertainer you want to be—your persona. Most people think of streamers as loud, outgoing people who jump up and down every time something cool happens on the screen. If that’s who you want to be, great, but it doesn’t have to be. Maybe you’re not that interested in talking and only want to show your gaming or cooking skills, or maybe you’re a bit shy and prefer more wholesome interactions with your viewers. Whatever your streaming persona is, make it authentic. 

“I only talk about things I’m actually hyped about,” Ninja says. “If I was faking it, my audience would read right through that and it just wouldn’t feel right. That’s why whenever I’m asked to give advice to upcoming streamers, that’s what I emphasize—just be you.”

If you ever second-guess yourself, remember the internet is vast, and there’s space for everyone, no matter how quiet or wacky. Also, you can change your mind whenever you want. After all, at least as of the time of writing, there’s no streaming police.

Set your goals

Your approach to streaming will be different depending on what you want to get out of it. If your goal is to make a name for yourself and build a huge community, you’ll need to be strategic. Ninja recommends gamers choose a game and stick with it—at least at the beginning.

“The majority of the time, [people] find you through the game that you’re playing, not through who you are,” he explains in his class. 

When it comes to choosing the game, he says it’s better to go for something that’s not so mainstream that a zillion other streamers play it, but is also not so obscure that no one will want to watch. He also explains that every time you switch games, no matter the size of your community, you’re likely to lose half of it, as many people may be tuning in not for you, but for what you’re playing. He only recommends making this jump once you’ve established a following that watches you for you, regardless of what you’re actually doing on camera.  

Another element you should consider in your strategy is promoting your content on social media. If you have any video editing skills, set aside some time to go through your streams and post videos to platforms like Instagram, Twitter, and TikTok. 

“TikTok is nice because people post clips and it’s the algorithm that shows their stuff to an audience who’s predisposed to liking it”, says Jess Boddy, special projects editor at Popular Science and a streamer known on Twitch as JessCapricorn.  

But maybe you’re not in it for the clout or the sponsorships. Maybe you just want to share your skills with the world and have a good time—and that’s totally fine. If that’s your goal and numbers make you a little queasy, Boddy suggests turning off your viewer count. At the start, you’re likely to go live for entire streams without a single view, which can be discouraging given you’re probably not sure what you’re doing yet. She says not knowing how many people (if any) are on the other side of the screen can be calming and make it easier to just have fun. 

Establish boundaries

If you’re an avid stream viewer, you’ve probably noticed some of your favorite streamers go live for hours and hours on end. This might lead you to think that’s the way you find success as a streamer.

But that’s not necessarily true, Boddy says. Moreover, it can even be highly detrimental for your mental health. This is why she suggests setting a schedule with specific days, times, and duration for your streams.  

“Being live for at least an hour and a half is good because it takes time for people to trickle in—I notice that I hit my average viewership an hour into my stream,” she explains. 

Ninja also believes having a schedule is crucial to protect you from burnout, but he stresses that flexibility is key. If numbers mean anything to you, he says staying just a bit longer on specific occasions might come in your favor. 

“Riding the waves is important,” he explains. “Sometimes you’ll be getting close to your end time and you’ll get a raid or your viewership count will go up. Keeping your streaming up can be beneficial for you: it could result in a higher viewership average and get you closer to being a [Twitch] partner.” 

Still, this is not an excuse to go overtime on every single stream, so he’s adamant you should treat this as the exception, not the rule. 

Setting a schedule also has an extra benefit, Boddy explains: consistency. “I’ve gotten to a point now that my community knows when I go live and they’ll be in the chat before I do, which is a crazy thing to think about, but it’s also very comforting,” she says.

Just go ahead and stream

As with most lessons in life, there’s only so much you can learn about streaming by watching and researching—the best way to master this 21st-century art form is by actually doing it. 

So whenever you feel slightly ready, go ahead and start streaming. You’ll learn a lot along the way, and the fact that you probably won’t have many (or any) viewers at first will allow you to tweak your stream without having a huge audience watching when something goes wrong. 

[Related: Can playing video games be your full-time job?]

Ninja recommends jumping into the streaming pool and setting daily or weekly goals for yourself. You don’t have to make your debut with a three-hour stream—start small by going live for 30 minutes, and only move to an hour when you’re ready.

Boddy mentions some people can get self-conscious if they know people they know in real life are watching, so they prefer not to tell their friends and family about their streaming until they feel more comfortable doing it. On the flipside, you might want the support of your immediate IRL community when you’re starting out. Do what feels right for you and keep going until you find your comfort zone. 

Finally, be patient. Becoming a big deal online always includes a huge luck factor, and that applies to streaming as well. What’s most important is that you have fun and take this as an opportunity to share your beautiful self with the world.

The post Anyone can be a streamer. Here’s how to start. appeared first on Popular Science.

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A casual angler’s guide to taking kids fishing for the first time https://www.popsci.com/diy/prepare-kids-first-fishing-trip/ Thu, 12 May 2022 12:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=442567
Two adults and a child in a rowboat on a calm lake at sunset. The man at the bow is paddling, the man at the back is holding a fishing rod, and the child is sitting between them.
Early morning fishing or a long day on the water? Doesn't matter if it was fun. Jed Owen / Unsplash

Keep it fun, safe, and simple.

The post A casual angler’s guide to taking kids fishing for the first time appeared first on Popular Science.

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Two adults and a child in a rowboat on a calm lake at sunset. The man at the bow is paddling, the man at the back is holding a fishing rod, and the child is sitting between them.
Early morning fishing or a long day on the water? Doesn't matter if it was fun. Jed Owen / Unsplash

I never enjoyed fishing as a kid. It was boring, early, long, and we didn’t catch much. Now that I’m a parent, however—and a regular fisherman—I’ve been teaching my kids to fish. Though I never would have imagined it as a child, I’ve come to treasure those hours out on the lake, and know they will as well.

If you’re not an avid angler yourself, but want to get the family involved in the sport, you’ll need to make sure it’s fun for them. That means catching fish—lots of fish. Kids just starting out would much rather catch 40 little sunfish than the biggest bass in the lake like you or I would. Fishing with children is all about quantity over quality, and there are several ways to increase your chances of having a big day.

Do your research in advance

The odds of just showing up to a lake, casting out from shore, and catching fish are not very good. Before taking your kids out for their first trip, spend some time together learning about fishing in your area. “Studying fishing is a huge learning opportunity,” says Brian Kearning, former fishing boat mate, fishing guide, and founder of BoatEasy, a website that serves recreational boaters. Even if your kids ultimately gravitate away from the sport, fishing-related research touches so many areas of science. Learning about the feeding habits and behaviors of specific fish teaches lessons in biology and the food chain. Knowing where fish might be hiding helps to understand how ecosystems work. And every angler always keeps a close eye on weather patterns, both to understand how they will affect the fish and to stay safe and dry. 

Fishing is also hyper-local, so focus on gaining knowledge about your area, not three states away. One way to do so is to find a fishing guide, says Kearning. This could be a friend or family member (I was lucky enough to have my father-in-law), or someone you hire. Fishing guides can tailor your experience to the type of fishing you want to do, familiarize you with your equipment, and give you specific tips for how to catch fish in your area. A guide can eliminate much of the trial and error in learning to fish, and get you and your kids catching faster. 

YouTube is another wonderful platform for getting local fishing information, Kearning adds. There are thousands upon thousands of fishing videos there, and there are certainly dozens that feature fishers in your area—maybe even on your local lake, river, or shoreline. These videos can give you a sense of what types of fish are available; where in the water they spend their time; some of the best tackle, lures, and baits to catch them; and the best time of day to try. 

Tyler Brady, a former charter fisherman and founder of afellowfisherman.com, recommends looking through TakeMeFishing.org, a federally funded site that offers a variety of resources about fishing. One of the most valuable is the map of the United States that shows the location of just about every lake in the country and provides information about what has been caught on that lake, and when. The map syncs with the Fishbrain app, which allows users to share pictures and information about their catch. This app is available through your browser and free to download for Android and iOS. Monthly upgrades start at $10.

Keep the equipment simple

There’s almost no end to the breadth, depth, and nuance of all the different types of fishing equipment out there. When you and the kids are starting out, don’t worry about all of that. Head over to your local sporting goods store or bait shop and pick out an appropriately sized rod for each child with a kid-friendly push-button reel. Then just pick out the tackle that will work best for the most common fish in your area—a bobber, barbless hooks, and worms are often all you need. And don’t be afraid to ask—anglers love to talk fishing.

Also pick up some practice weights, particularly if your kids are younger. It’s far safer to practice casting for the first time in the backyard without a hook than on shore or out on a boat.

[Related: It’s surprisingly hard to tell if someone is drowning, so we made you a guide]

Finally, make sure you have scissors or clippers to cut the line, a fishhook extractor and pliers, a fish identification guide for your area, a ruler, and a trash bucket or bag to collect your garbage. 

Beyond the fishing equipment, bring life jackets if you’re boating, sunscreen, bugspray, hats, and sunglasses. In my family, we wear sunglasses when fishing with the kids regardless of the weather or time of day. The 6-year-olds can cast by themselves, but they’re still pretty unpredictable, and I don’t want them to hook one another or me in the eye.

And don’t forget your license

Have a plan for when the fish aren’t biting

As my father-in-law loves to say, it’s called fishing, not catching. Sometimes, despite your best efforts, you just can’t find them. Those long, boring periods can destroy a kid’s interest. Make sure they have something to do while you’re waiting for the fish to come back on the bite. 

One of the easiest ways to keep children happy and entertained is snacks. I never take the kids out without a pocket full of snack bars, fruit snacks, or trail mix. When fishing slows down, the food comes out until we can find the fish again. 

Nature is also all around you, waiting to be explored. Brady keeps binoculars and a bird identification book on board. When the fish disappear, his kids start bird-watching. My kids love to look at the lily pad flowers and try to spot the turtles and frogs hiding on the shoreline. Kearning keeps a facemask and a snorkel on his boat. Weather permitting, when the kids need a break, they mask up and jump overboard to explore the lake from a different vantage point. Similarly, my kids and I sometimes fish from shore near a beach. When the fishing slows down, the kids go swimming. 

Finally, don’t be afraid to cut a trip short. Sometimes you just need to call it a day and get some ice cream. 

Respect the environment

When you’re fishing, minimize your impact on the environment. Collect your trash, recover lost lures and line, and don’t disturb the ecosystem. Try to leave the lake as clean or cleaner than when you arrived. 

Respect for the environment also means having a plan for what to do when you catch a fish, says Brady. It’s very easy to accidentally kill fish. Know how to take a hook out of different kinds of fish mouths. Catch a bass, for example, and you can usually just remove the hook with your hands. Other fish, like pickerel, have large, sharp teeth, and you’ll need to use a pair of pliers or a hook extractor. And it’s a different story when the fish swallows the hook.

Also decide if you want to keep or catch and release. For the most part, we catch and release. As part of that, we try to get the fish back in the water as quickly and with as little damage as possible. We bring them into the boat, take the hooks out, take a picture, and throw them back. If you choose to take home any of the fish you catch, Kearning says you should first ensure it’s legal to do so, then dispatch the fish humanely and quickly. 

Learning to respect and conserve aquatic ecosystems is the best way to ensure that they are healthy and enjoyable for everyone for years to come. Maybe your kids will want to cast a line with their kids someday.

The post A casual angler’s guide to taking kids fishing for the first time appeared first on Popular Science.

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How to turn your phone into a small-photo scanner https://www.popsci.com/diy/digitize-photos-phone/ Wed, 11 May 2022 01:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=441883
Image of an app that digitizes photos.
It took me less than 10 seconds to digitize this Instax Mini print of Belvedere. Dan Bracaglia

The free PhotoScan app uses computational photography to create high-quality digital copies of any instant photo print.

The post How to turn your phone into a small-photo scanner appeared first on Popular Science.

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Image of an app that digitizes photos.
It took me less than 10 seconds to digitize this Instax Mini print of Belvedere. Dan Bracaglia

This article was originally featured on Popular Photography.

The PhotoScan app from Google is one of the quickest and easiest ways we’ve found to create high-quality digital versions of physical prints. In this tutorial, we’ll walk you through the steps needed to digitize your favorite instant photos, whether they’re Polaroids or Instax.

Why you should use an app to digitize

Projects photo
PhotoScan is a free app for Android and iOS devices. Dan Bracaglia

Though your smartphone’s camera may work in a pinch, this method often results in photos with noticeable glare and/or perspective distortion. The PhotoScan app, on the other hand, automatically corrects for both of these through computational wizardry. It also detects the edge of prints, so you won’t lose the snazzy borders around your instant frames.

And unlike digitizing with a traditional scanner, which can be a time-consuming process, PhotoScan creates a file ready for sharing in about ten seconds.

Step 1: Download & open PhotoScan

Projects photo
Begin by lining up your print in the app’s frame. Dan Bracaglia

PhotoScan is available for free for both Android and iOS devices. Once downloaded, open the app and you should see a vertical frame with several controls at the bottom, including an option to toggle the camera’s flash on and off, as well as a toggle for glare reduction. We advise leaving both of these turned on.

Step 2: Line up your print in the frame

Projects photo
It’s a good idea to place your print on a solid colored background before digitizing, for best results. Dan Bracaglia

Select the instant photo you’d like to digitize and place it on a flat surface, preferably on a solid-colored background. I used the front of a notebook for this. With the app open, hold your phone over the print and line up the image within PhotoScan’s frame. Then, hit the big circular button at the bottom of the screen. This will start the digitizing process.

Step 3: Follow the app prompt by moving the camera around over the print

Projects photo
Four white dots will appear once you’ve started the digitizing process. Dan Bracaglia

Next, you’ll see four white dots appear in the frame over your print. An arrow will guide you to the first dot. Slowly move the center circle over the first dot and wait until it turns from white to blue, this will take about 1-2 seconds.

Projects photo
Once a dot turns blue, an arrow will appear indicating which way to move your smartphone next. Dan Bracaglia

Once a dot turns blue, another arrow will appear indicating which dot to align the center circle over next. Repeat this process until you’ve held your smart device over all four dots, at which point, PohotoScan will begin generating the final image file.

Projects photo
The final product. Dan Bracaglia

And that’s it! You can view all of the files you’ve scanned using the app by tapping the thumbnail in the bottom right of the screen. PhotoScan also allows you to rotate images and adjust the corners before sharing your scans with the world. Happy digitizing!

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Drug-resistant fungus could be lurking in your compost, but you can reduce the risk https://www.popsci.com/diy/fungus-removal-in-compost/ Fri, 06 May 2022 16:43:18 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=440651
A pile of food scraps and compost materials.
A compost bin reduces waste and your carbon footprint. But it could also be making you sick. Ben_Kerckz / Pixabay

Your compost could be dangerous if you're not caring for it properly.

The post Drug-resistant fungus could be lurking in your compost, but you can reduce the risk appeared first on Popular Science.

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A pile of food scraps and compost materials.
A compost bin reduces waste and your carbon footprint. But it could also be making you sick. Ben_Kerckz / Pixabay

Collecting compost is a common practice in any environmentally-conscious home. Not only is creating this natural fertilizer an easy way to reduce household waste, but the organic matter also adds valuable nutrients to the soil and has even been shown to suppress harmful pathogens that can thrive underground. However, a new study published in Nature Microbiology reveals that a drug-resistant fungus may grow in compost and infect humans that inhale its spores. 

The culprit, Aspergillus fumigatus, is a common fungal pathogen that has infected people all over the world, including over 2 million in the European Union alone. But the drugs typically used to treat A. fumigatus have become less effective in recent years, and this drug resistance puts at-risk populations like leukemia patients in even greater danger.

Similar to how some bacteria can become drug-resistant after encountering antibiotics, antifungal resistance may result from exposure to agricultural fungicides, the study says.

With that in mind, it’s important for eco-friendly gardeners to keep themselves safe.

Know what’s compostable and what’s not

One easy way to maintain a clean compost bin is by adhering to a strict list of compostable goods. The Environmental Protection Agency recommends adding equal amounts of “greens” and “browns” to compost, and the proper amount of water. Only composting the recommended items will help keep your compost bin efficient and clean.

Greens

Fruits, vegetables, coffee grounds, grass clippings, tea bags, eggshells, houseplants, leaves, hair, and yard trimmings all fall into this category. They provide nitrogen that will fuel photosynthesis and plant growth.

Browns

Consider these your compost’s carbon source. As the building block for cells, carbon is an energy source in soil. Dead leaves, branches, nut shells, shredded newspaper, shredded cardboard, hay, straw, sawdust, and wood ash all satisfy this need.

What not to compost

However, there are several items the EPA warns against composting. Never compost any part of a black walnut tree, as their leaves, twigs, and branches can release toxic substances that may hurt your garden. And while wood ash is a good source of carbon in compost, coal and charcoal ash is potentially harmful to plants. Dairy products, fats, animal and fish scraps, and eggs all smell bad and risk attracting rodents and flies. Pet waste and diseased plants both risk introducing illness and parasites into previously healthy compost. In addition, yard trimmings treated with chemical pesticides could kill the beneficial microorganisms that help compost organic materials. 

Satisfy your compost’s need for speed

To help your compost… compost, you should chop and shred all your materials. This creates more surface area on your scraps for microorganisms to latch onto and helps them decompose the natural materials faster. Papers and branches can be shredded, and food scraps can be chopped or crushed. 

The volume of your container can also help move microbes along. Cornell’s Waste Management Institute says containers between 3 and 5 feet cubed (27 to 135 cubic feet) will create the fastest compost. Smaller containers struggle to hold in the heat generated during composting, and larger containers make it difficult for air to reach the internal microbes. During dry periods, adding water will also help the decomposition process by sustaining microbes.

[Related: How to start composting at home]

To determine if your compost is breaking down quickly, just take its temperature. Microorganisms produce heat when they decompose organic material, and high heat is associated with fast decomposition.

High temperatures also help keep compost safe. The EPA says that to significantly reduce pathogen numbers, compost should be kept at 104 degrees Fahrenheit for at least five days, and over 131 degrees for at least four hours within that same timeframe. This time helps destroy fly larvae, weed seeds, and some pathogens sensitive to temperature. However, most microorganisms cannot survive in temperatures above 140 degrees, so if your compost starts to approach that benchmark, you should mix it up to cool it down.

After this stage of rapid decomposition and high temperatures, which may take weeks or months, decomposition will slow and your compost’s temperature will drop. The final stages of composting help stabilize the stuff so you can use it in your garden.

How to keep mold out of your compost bin

Unfortunately, you simply cannot clear all microorganisms and fungi out of your compost bin. Compost needs microorganisms and fungi to turn waste into fertile compost. In addition, A. fumigatus is so common that people inhale its spores repeatedly throughout the day. Most people can breathe in the spores with no reaction. But when it infects immunocompromised patients, they face severe health risks, including death. With so many spores around, Cornell recommends several key safety measures beyond proper composting materials and temperature control.

  • Good hygiene: Washing your hands, avoiding touching your face, and other childhood cleanliness skills are still useful. By practicing basic hygiene, composters can mitigate the risks of compost microorganisms.
  • Mask up: Don’t throw away your masks quite yet (for several reasons). N95 respirators are approved by the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health to prevent inhaling small mold particles. Gloves can also keep mold spores off your hands.
  • A breath of fresh air: If A. fumigatus spores are introduced to the home, there are several ways to prevent a build-up. Fix leaks, keep humidity levels low, and clean bathrooms with products that kill mold. The easiest method, however, is to keep your windows open. Maximized airflow will help avoid a build-up of the airborne spores.
  • Know your limits: Immunocompromised individuals are at the greatest risk for infection by drug-resistant A. fumigatus. The latest study indicates a risk to humans due to these evolving spores, and the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention notes that drug-resistant fungi have severely limited treatment options. High-risk gardeners may be advised to avoid composting, and Cornell recommends using caution when handling compost.

Fungi, of course, have existed for nearly 1 billion years on Earth, and they are an unavoidable part of composting. But if you take time to maintain a clean compost bin, pay attention to compost temperatures, and stay hygenic, you mitigate the risk that the bad microorganisms will outweigh the good.

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Archive Gallery: PopSci’s Quirkiest DIY Projects https://www.popsci.com/diy/article/2011-04/archive-gallery-our-most-delightful-diy-projects/ Tue, 03 Oct 2017 20:30:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/uncategorized/diy-article-2011-04-archive-gallery-our-most-delightful-diy-projects/
Projects photo

PopSci teaches you how to make a crossbow, a wooden scooter, a psychedelic light show, and more contraptions you didn't know you needed

The post Archive Gallery: PopSci’s Quirkiest DIY Projects appeared first on Popular Science.

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Projects photo

DIY projects have been a hallmark of Popular Science since we started printing articles with pictures. These contraptions ranged from homemade neutrodyne radio sets, to tractors, to borderline illegal breweries, but many of our favorites were featured between the 1940s and 1970s. By that time, our projects had taken on an “everyman” appeal; you didn’t need to be an expert or a crazy inventor to assemble them, but they would take resourcefulness, dedication, and hours of sawing.

Admittedly, most of our archive’s DIY projects are wildly eccentric, even impractical, but the point is that they’re fun to make. Who else but a tinkerer would build a crossbow in the year 1940? Who else would pave their own badminton court when they could hire the labor? Who else would think to build a scooter out of wood?

The beauty of DIY features is that they introduce readers to unlikely projects. In addition to the ones mentioned above, we provided articles on turning your station wagon into a camper and building a DC-to-AC “wall plug in the wilderness” inverter for people who enjoy watching TV in the great outdoors. We also couldn’t resist two the psychedelic light show DIY and the dodecahedral Meditator, pictured above, two not-so-subtle products of their time.

Build Your Own Crossbow: April 1940
Build Your Own Crossbow: April 1940 Pop Sci Archives

Headed to a medieval fair? Don’t forget to bring a crossbow, which can be made at home with a mere five dollars’ worth of scrap material. For the bow, collect a light auto spring from your local junkyard and hack-saw it accordingly. Use an ivory release nut and a stock cut from 2″ by 8″ by 27″ inch walnut. You’ll also need hinged wooden jack to draw the bowstring and bolts made of birth or fir dowels. And what’s a crossbow without feathers? Gather a bunch of stiff turkey or goose feathers and glue them onto wooden shafts. Use high-grade linen for the bowstring. Cutting and sawing all of the individuals pieces could be a little complicated, so we provided several diagrams to guide our readers through the process.

A Badminton Court You Can Build: July 1940
A Badminton Court You Can Build: July 1940 Pop Sci Archives

If you’ve been neglecting your backyard, consider turning it into a badminton court. Don’t hire a firm when you can pave it yourself. First, decide what kind of pavement you want. Dirt courts are the least expensive, but if you have money to spare, try a bituminous emulsion court, which has a tar-like consistency. Asphalt-concrete pavements are firmer, but require expert labor since the material is laid on hot. Finally, you can also consider concrete, which is popular in Southern California homes that come with badminton courts, but make sure you but it pre-mixed. After paving your court, wait a month until the concrete sets before painting the border lines. From there, install the light standards, the net, and the shrubbery.

Homemade Plane Detector: May 1942
Homemade Plane Detector: May 1942 Pop Sci Archives

Six months after the Pearl Harbor bombing, we provided an easy guide to making your own affordable airplane detector. Although this instrument wasn’t as sophisticated as the ones used by army searchlight crews, it was sensitive enough to detect a conversation occurring three blocks away. Civilians using this device could reasonably locate planes in a five to ten mile radius. The microscope installation pictured at left used a rock-wool plug, a shielded microphone cable, a water-tight metal shield, and a static microphone cartridge, among other materials. The “ear” could be taken from the horn of a phonograph, but you could also make it from a sheet of metal. The stand was made from scrap lumber, and the entire device was battery-powered. Simply plug earphones into the jack to begin listening.

Wooden Scooters: May 1965
Wooden Scooters: May 1965 Pop Sci Archives

Consider this wooden contraption a kid’s homemade introduction to motorbikes. This scooter, named Pioneer, weighed just 120 pounds but could carry twice its weight. It could drive at half a mile a minute on flat ground, could climb hills, and was road-tested for 300 miles. J.M. Harris, who provided the plan pictured left, made his out of oak and everyday hardware. First, saw your pieces from the oak. After assembling the frame, construct the seat parts out of foam rubber, plywood and stitched canvas. Strap on the fuel tank, attach maple dowels for the handlebars, and decide on whether you want a chain or belt connection to the rear wheel. Once you’re done, don’t forget to hook up the headlights battery.

Wilderness Wall Plug: July 1965
Wilderness Wall Plug: July 1965 Pop Sci Archives

Unable to part with your electric razor? Incapable of building a fire? Try making this portable DC-to-AC inverter instead. Hook it up with a 12-volt battery and leave the rest to your dual-transistor circuit. The inverter could power TV sets, kitchen appliances, power tools, hi-fi gear, and any other device that could run on less than 120 watts of AC.

Yard Tractor: May 1967
Yard Tractor: May 1967 Pop Sci Archives

Yard tractors cost thousands of dollars nowadays, but back in the 1960s, you could assemble your own from a kit costing just $350. It came with machined parts, tracks, pulleys, bolts, shafts, a welded-steel body, and a six-hp.,, four-cycle engine. All you’d need to build it were your screwdrivers, pliers and wrenches, although DIY enthusiasts could also opt for a low-cost model with a plywood body and hardwood strips for tracks.

Driving the tractor was simple. Plush the control level to move forward. Pull it back to brake. To reverse, push the pedal with your left foot and push both levers forward. To turn sharply, brake the inside lever while pushing the outside one forward.

Build Your Own Aquaglider: August 1967
Build Your Own Aquaglider: August 1967 Pop Sci Archives

This project could be a little dangerous, but if you were experienced with DIY, it could mean you’d look like a total boss zipping around on this aquaglider during summers by the lake. The glider could fly at an altitude of 200 feet while towed by a ski boat moving at 35 miles per hour. At 180 pounds, the glider was quite portable and could be disassembled in two parts for easy storage.

Building it used the same techniques as assembling a model airplane. Cut the pieces from full-scale drawings on brown wrapping paper, then glue them together and bolt the tail boom to the hull. Connect the control cables to the terminal fittings using standard turnbuckles and clevis fittings, and you’re good to go. We also suggested lightplane flying lessons at the local airport for novices.

Psychedelic Light Show: May 1969
Psychedelic Light Show: May 1969 Pop Sci Archives

Everyone gets bored at home, so when all else fails, preoccupy yourself with a homemade psychedelic screen show. “A hallucinatory turn-on? Modern art form? Home entertainment? Whichever way you see it, psychedelic light shows with their dazzling color-in-motion displays are making the scene,” we said. “Discotheque and rock-band tested, they are adaptable as fascinating sources of home entertainment.”

Making them was just a matter of buying the right equipment. You could produce these lights using a kaleidoscope projector, with a psychedelic slide and polarizing wheel, or with a strobe and color wheel display. (“High-intensity repetitive flashes give the eerie stop-motion effect, adding even more far-out character to a show.”)

Simply shine a high-intensity white light (such as a slide projector) through these elements to enjoy the show. We also suggested using music and sound synchronized with the lights to add either a danceable or ethereal effect. If you were really enthusiastic about DIY projects, you could also consider making a “wet show” by dropping color dyes into a clear-glass bowl of water on the overhead projector.

Station Wagon Camper: July 1970
Station Wagon Camper: July 1970 Pop Sci Archives

J.R. Fund, a self-proclaimed suburbanite, didn’t own a trailer but wanted to avoid paying for motels during family road trips. When he proposed building a station wagon camper, we asked him to prove its feasibility.

As it turns out, Fund’s camper (while smaller than most trailers) turned out to be a practical project. As the diagram on the left shows, it could hold two to three travelers along with a cabinet for food. You couldn’t cook inside it, but you could set up the requisite equipment at any campsite.

Construction called for an array of simple materials: plywood, aluminum, piping, a plastic water tank and a sink that could be purchased at a supply store.

Your Very Own Meditator: November 1970
Your Very Own Meditator: November 1970 Pop Sci Archives

Everybody needs some time alone. Monks have their abbeys, Henry David Thoreau had Walden Pond, and Popular Science Design Consultant Ken Isaacs had his dodecahedral Meditator, modeled after the Pythagorean concept of universe’s atomic building blocks. Cut the plywood panels using the layout provided in our magazine, sand the pieces and apply enamel, and finally, assemble them into the geometric structure. Glue graphics inside the Meditator to create a “pholage,” or a “photo collage.”

“It’s difficult to predict, but you may find the sensation akin to that mystical communion with nature that you experience when alone in a forest — or the sense of peace you feel in an empty cathedral,” Isaacs said when describing how it would feel to sit inside the Meditator. “or you may develop sudden insights as you study the picture-fragments of your world–and be swept by the conviction that you’re ‘getting it all together’ at last.”

The post Archive Gallery: PopSci’s Quirkiest DIY Projects appeared first on Popular Science.

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The surprising woodworking tools you already have around the house https://www.popsci.com/diy/surprising-woodworking-tools/ Thu, 28 Apr 2022 20:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=439912
Some playing cards in a wooden drawer in a workshop, with the joker in the foreground.
It's not a joke, we swear. Marouane / Unsplash

Little ways to make your woodworking life easier.

The post The surprising woodworking tools you already have around the house appeared first on Popular Science.

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Some playing cards in a wooden drawer in a workshop, with the joker in the foreground.
It's not a joke, we swear. Marouane / Unsplash

Woodworking sometimes feels like it’s as much about collecting tools as it is about creating something beautiful and functional. However, “tools” aren’t all expensive table saws and fancy router bits. Many everyday household items can make your woodworking projects easier, cleaner, or faster, and there’s nothing more satisfying than figuring out how to solve a problem with a completely unexpected tool.

Rubber cabinet liner

Keeping wood still while you work can be an annoying challenge. Some projects are too small to clamp, and other times clamps get in the way. That’s where rubber cabinet liners come in, providing a grippy surface that will keep wood in place for sanding or routing.  

Lay the cabinet liner on your workbench, place the wood on top, and start working. Depending on how heavy the piece is, you may need to hold it in place with your forearm or free hand, but it should mostly stay put. If the liner slides a bit, try wrapping it around a medium-sized scrap of plywood, around 20 by 12 inches, using staples to fasten it. This creates a secure surface you can then clamp down. 

These liners are also a good cushion for near-finished pieces to rest on so they don’t get scratched.

Playing cards

Consistent spacing between elements is often the difference between a piece that looks good and one that feels uncomfortably… off. This is particularly noticeable on doors or drawer faces—aesthetically you usually want equal space on all sides. Playing cards make excellent shims for this purpose, as they’re thin enough that you can make minuscule adjustments by stacking cards until you get the exact spacing you want. Keeping an old deck on hand will make the precision we’re all looking for easier to achieve.

Plus, you’ll have something to play with while you’re waiting for the glue to dry.

Silicone utensils

Silicone baking utensils are perfect for spreading glue, because nothing sticks to them. Cleanup is easy and fast: the glue wipes right off with a paper towel. If the glue has dried, flex the spatula back and forth a few times and the caked-on adhesive will crack and fall away.  

I keep several sizes on hand for gluing different widths of wood. They get in tight to the nooks and crannies of projects, and spread the glue smoothly and evenly. Just make sure they don’t somehow end up back in the kitchen.

[Related: Get your scratched wooden cutting board looking bright and new]

Old IDs and credit cards are also great for spreading epoxy and wood putty, so don’t feel the need to buy a brand new set of spatulas just to slather them with glue.

Paper bags

Obviously, paper bags are good for storage—I keep my shop rags in one. But they are surprisingly useful as a finishing tool for polyurethane, which is my go-to finish on most projects. Tear off a piece of paper bag about as big as your hand and rub it over the final polyurethaned surface. The paper will knock down bumps, nubs, and brush marks without scratching the surface like sandpaper would. You’re left with a perfectly smooth finish, every time.

Old jars and condiment containers

If you’re like me, you’ve got memories of countless coffee cans and peanut butter jars holding nuts, bolts, screws, nails, and an assorted mishmash of other hardware in your grandfather’s workshop. This is, of course, an excellent way to upcycle containers, though most people already know about it.

What might be less common knowledge is that mustard and ketchup squeeze bottles make excellent glue bottles, after being thoroughly cleaned, of course. Just make sure to keep the opening clear of dried glue by sliding a nail in there when you’re not using it.

Compressed air

That can of compressed air that you use to blow the dust, cat hair, and cracker crumbs out of your computer keyboard is also an excellent way to blow the dust off of a project before applying stain or finish. An air compressor is better for large projects, but not everyone has one, or wants to go through the effort of setting it up just to knock the dust off of something small. That’s when I turn to a can of compressed air. Quick and easy.

Painter’s tape

Admittedly, it’s not weird to have painter’s tape in a woodshop. However, there are so many more uses for the stuff than simply covering parts of your project while painting.  

First and foremost, painter’s tape can make it easier to clean glue out of a freshly fastened corner—you just have to plan ahead. If you tape along the edges of a seam or joint before you put the wood together, the glue will squeeze out onto the tape instead of the wood. Then you can just peel the tape up to remove the excess glue. Do this while the glue is still wet—if you let it dry, the tape will just get stuck under dried glue and you’ll have to chisel it out anyway.  

[Related: Adam Savage’s definitive guide to every kind of glue]

Painter’s tape can also serve as a clamp replacement for small or oddly-shaped projects—this is great for boxes with mitered corners, for example. Because the tape stretches slightly, you can achieve decent clamping pressure with it. Just make sure you really pull on the tape as you wrap it around your project to get the most pressure on the joint as the glue dries. 

A final use for painter’s tape is to temporarily connect two pieces of wood face to face. Stick a piece of tape on one board, and another on the second board so the two pieces of tape will touch when you put the boards together. Apply a few dabs of cyanoacrylate (CA) glue to one piece of tape and spray the activator onto the other. When you sandwich the two boards together, making sure the tape touches, the glue will bond and harden, holding the boards in place. When you’re done working, just pull the boards apart. The CA glue will hold firm and the two pieces of tape will stick together, but the tape adhesive itself should peel right off, leaving little to no residue and no hardened CA glue for you to chisel or sand off. If you don’t have painter’s tape or CA glue, you can also use double-sided tape the same way. Using tape to hold boards together is an effective strategy if you’re flush routing two boards, building a temporary tapering jig for your table saw, or trying to hold a spacer in place without screws.

The post The surprising woodworking tools you already have around the house appeared first on Popular Science.

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The planet needs its peat moss. Use these gardening alternatives instead. https://www.popsci.com/diy/peat-moss-alternatives/ Thu, 28 Apr 2022 12:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=439661
A cracked-open coconut on a light pink background with the white outline of a palm leaf underneath.
The husk of a coconut can stand in for peat moss, but it has its own drawbacks. Isaac N.C. / Unsplash

Local compost is less sexy, but it's better for the planet.

The post The planet needs its peat moss. Use these gardening alternatives instead. appeared first on Popular Science.

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A cracked-open coconut on a light pink background with the white outline of a palm leaf underneath.
The husk of a coconut can stand in for peat moss, but it has its own drawbacks. Isaac N.C. / Unsplash

Growing plants can seem intimidating, but we believe anyone can create a thriving home conservatory of any size. We’re here to help nurture your skills and help make that happen, so please feel free to send any plant-related questions of your own to ask@popsci.com with “Plants” in the subject line.

Many of the most dramatic scenes in English Gothic literature take place on the moors: Heathcliff is haunted by ghosts in Wuthering Heights; Jane Eyre’s titular character runs aimlessly after learning her beloved Mr. Rochester has been keeping his first wife captive in his attic. If the Brontë sisters’ fictional worlds work in a similar way to ours, sphagnum (or peat) moss was cushioning these characters’ wandering feet. And if Jane and Heathcliff had any seedlings on their windowsills, chunks of that same moss may have been padding those pots.

Peat moss is acidic (which some plants like), has antimicrobial properties that can keep your plants healthy, and stores and distributes water better than almost anything else on this planet, whether the moss itself is dead or alive. These properties make it an ideal medium for many types of gardening, and about 30 percent of extracted peat is used for horticultural purposes. But drained peatlands also release about 1.9 gigatonnes of carbon dioxide every year, or about 5 percent of total human-generated greenhouse gas emissions—a significant amount for our planet. Thankfully, there are effective ways to replace peat in your garden. 

Why peat moss is so special

To understand why peat bogs put the Amazon rainforest to shame in terms of carbon storage, you must understand that these bogs are remarkably springy, like a sponge. Brian Jackson, professor and director of the Horticultural Substrates Laboratory at North Carolina State University recalls his experience with one in Canada: “I was standing 200 feet away from a tractor that drove by. And the person I was with said, ‘Wait for it, wait for it.’ And like five seconds later, the ground beneath me moved due to the vibration from that tractor from 200 feet away.”

Some of the same attributes that make hundreds of layers of sphagnum moss feel like a solid puddle are also what make them so good at storing carbon. For example, they take a long time to decay, so they end up holding their organic molecules for hundreds to thousands of years. If you’re a numbers person, consider this: they make up about 3 percent of the world’s land area but store a quarter of the carbon—carbon that would contribute to the climate crisis if released.

Other material that will hold large amounts of moisture

The outer coating of a coconut, called “coconut coir,” is surprisingly useful for starting seeds or mixing with other soil mediums. “It wets up nicely and holds water,” Jackson says. The downside, though, is that processing coconut coir requires a lot of water, so ocean salt doesn’t end up in the final product. And if you live in the US, you probably can’t buy local coir and might find it hard to get.

While these are important considerations, every growing medium has some sort of environmental impact—choosing is a matter of mitigation, not elimination. And, as always, we can only make so much difference on the individual level. “It’s a lot different than the professional individuals who are using growing media to grow vast acreages of crops,” says Jackson.

Forestry scraps can hold nutrients just as well

To make soil more acidic and avoid rinsing out crucial nutrients when you water the plant, Jackson recommends adding aged pine bark to the soil. It’s a byproduct in the forestry industry, especially in the southeastern US. It’s all about the cation exchange capacity (CEC): how well the soil can hold positive ions, which hold on to nutrients. “[The CEC] is quite high in peat moss, but it also can be very high in aged and composted barks,” Jackson says. 

How to recreate peat’s antimicrobial properties

The antimicrobial activity of peat moss seems to be the hardest attribute to replicate, as mosses produce a complicated mix of substances like polyphenols and carbohydrates that have antimicrobial and even anti-cancer activity, according to a 2015 paper in the journal Molecules. “There’s no direct substitution for it,” Jackson says. (But don’t go eating peat or rubbing it on tumors—the researchers tested the moss on specific types of cancer cells.)

This may seem like disappointing news, but scientists are discovering more and more about soil microbiomes and underground fungi networks that link trees every day. It’s only a matter of time before there’s a probiotic for your houseplants. In the meantime, you can use local compost, which is teeming with life. Given the environmental effects of harvesting all growing mediums, composting at home or locally is also probably the best way to reduce your impact on the world around you, even if you don’t get those eerie Heathcliff vibes.

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Everything you need to smoke fish https://www.popsci.com/diy/everything-you-need-to-smoke-fish/ Wed, 27 Apr 2022 01:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=439337
A photo of perch on a fish smoker being smoked.
The fattier the fish, the better!. Deposit Photos

From cold smoking to hot smoking, dry brine to wet brine—learn the basics of smoking whole fish and fish fillets.

The post Everything you need to smoke fish appeared first on Popular Science.

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A photo of perch on a fish smoker being smoked.
The fattier the fish, the better!. Deposit Photos

This article was originally featured on Field & Stream.

Smoking fish is as old as fishing itself. Some techniques, and of course equipment, have evolved since our ancestors first tied a line to a stick, but some universal truths remain as relevant as ever. It isn’t complicated to smoke your own fish, but there are some mistakes you want to avoid. Whether you’re smoking saltwater or freshwater fish, if you want the best texture and flavor, keep the following in mind.

Know the difference between cold smoking and hot smoking

Cold smoking requires a consistent low temperature (65-85 degrees F) to cure fish over several days, and without a lot of experience or the right equipment, there’s a bit of a learning curve. Hot smoking on the other hand is easy to do with pellet grills, electric smokers, and log burners. The tips below are for hot smoking fish. With smokers set around 160 degrees F, hot smoking doesn’t take as long as cold smoking and produces a fantastic finished product. 

How to choose the best kinds of fish to smoke

Bottom line: The fattier the fish, the better. Fat helps fish stay moist, and it absorbs more smoke, which results in more flavor. Some great fish to try smoking are trout, steelhead, salmon, tuna, swordfish, mackerel, and sturgeon.

You can smoke leaner fish like walleye and sunfish, but they’re usually better when cooked in other ways. If you are determined to smoke leaner fish regardless, follow the methods here but include an extra step for applying a thin coat of grapeseed oil to the fish before smoking. Doing so adds a very small amount of fat to the exterior, but more importantly, since grapeseed oil is a semi-drying oil, it will partially harden when exposed to air, forming another layer to help lean fish absorb flavor from the smoke.

The best wood for smoking fish

Choosing wood for smoking is largely based on personal preference, but most people who smoke fish agree that some woods are too “harsh” for the flavor of fish. Top fish smoking woods include alder, maple, pecan, apple, and even cherry—while you may want to stay away from hickory and mesquite unless it’s mixed with another wood. For me, a mesquite and cherry mix is likely the strongest wood mix I would ever use for smoking fish.

The best kinds of smokers for smoking fish

Electric smokers, pellet grills, and log burners all work for smoking fish. In my experience, log burners offer a far more thorough smoke but come with a lower degree of control, and require more work to operate. For example, you’ll need to cut logs to a specific size (larger logs burn at lower temps for longer) instead of using chips, and you’ll want to cut off any bark because it adds harsh tones to the smoke.

Generally speaking, pellet grills and electric smokers are the easiest to use. But the smoke is far less concentrated and, in turn, the smoky flavor is less concentrated. After all, there is a reason world-famous smokehouses and barbecue pits have trailers of wooden logs delivered each day. Ultimately, though, the choice is yours.

Smoking fillets vs. smoking the whole fish

It’s up to you whether you want to fillet a fish out or try smoking it whole. I prefer to smoke fish in the size I might serve. For example, if I have a limit of small to medium-sized trout, I’ll cut out their backbones, butterfly them, brine and smoke them whole, then serve. For a single, larger salmon, I might cut a fillet into 8-ounce pieces before brining and smoking.

Nevertheless, the sight of a whole fishing smoking is something special, and smoked skin from trout is also tasty. Do note that removing the backbone helps keep the fish opened up so smoke can penetrate the cavity. I like to use a grill mesh, in which I can situate the fish and then clamp the mesh shut to keep the fish spread open. You could also use a wooden skewer to pin open a fish and expose the fillets to more smoke. 

Preparing the fish before smoking: Dry brine vs. wet brine

There are those who argue there’s no such thing as a dry brine because a brine requires water, but I’d also argue salting meat pulls out moisture that then gets reabsorbed, creating what one might call an autonomous brine (as the moisture, thanks to salt, pools on top of meat). But this concept is also more true for red meat, so it is indeed possible a dry brine for fish is merely “salting the fish.”

A wet brine, by definition, is water with a high concentration of salt and includes other ingredients. To be clear, whether dry or wet, salt is the main component here, as it will penetrate meat while any other ingredients add more surface-level flavor. Salt binds to muscle fibers, which boosts flavor and helps retain moisture while cooking.

I’ve moved away from wet brines for most forms of cooking. Minerals in water (especially tap water) can denature protein (not in a good way, typically speaking) and affect flavor. And your tap water will vary from my tap water in terms of mineral content. If you’re determined to use a wet brine, I suggest buying spring water from the store and making sure to boil in a healthy amount of salt before adding a saltwater fish. Dry-salting a fish, is quicker and produces something called a pellicle on the exterior of the meat—which is a thin, sticky membrane to which smoke can adhere.

Whether wet brining or salting, you’ll need to rinse the salt off of the meat, pat off any moisture with a towel, then let the meat fully dry before smoking. (Wet fish creates a mushy texture and won’t absorb a lot of smoke.) To fully dry the fish, you can either leave it on a grate overnight in the fridge or place it under a fast-running fan in a cool (no more than 60 degrees), shaded place for an hour. The goal is a dry fish that’s a little bit sticky.

Basic smoked fish recipes

As mentioned at the beginning, this article is meant to establish some guardrails but still allow you some room to improvise. Below are some basic brines and methods for smoking your favorite fish.

Wet brine ingredients:

  • 1 gallon spring water
  • 1/2 cup kosher salt
  • 3/4 cup brown sugar
  • 1/2 bulb fresh garlic, smashed
  • 1/2 cup black peppercorns

Bring to a simmer and stir until the salt and sugar has dissolved. Cool in fridge and add your fish only once the brine has completely cooled. Brine 8- to 16-ounce cuts of fish or whole fish for 6-8 hours (a little longer for bigger cuts or whole fish), thoroughly rinse under cold water upon removal, pat dry, and allow the fish to fully dry before smoking at 160 degrees for 2-1/2 hours.

Dry brine / salt mix ingredients:

  • 1 cup kosher salt
  • 1/2 cup brown sugar
  • 2 teaspoons paprika
  • 2 teaspoon granulated garlic
  • 2 teaspoons onion powder
  • 1 tablespoon white pepper

Mix all ingredients in a non-active bin (glass or plastic) and add the fish flesh-side-down in 8-ounce pieces. Let it sit in the fridge for 1 hour. Flip the fish and let sit in the fridge for 1 more hour. Rinse off all salt under cold running water (this is a quick rinse but you want no granules or flakes left on the fish), pat dry, and allow the fish to dry either in the fridge overnight or under a fan (in a cool place) for 1 hour, until completely dry. Smoke at 160 degrees for 2 to 2-1/2 hours.

While smoking any fish, after allowing the fish to smoke for the first half hour, you can add a glaze of maple or agave syrup every half hour until the fish is done. I also like to mix in a tablespoon of pureed chipotle in adobo sauce for every 1 cup of maple or agave syrup and brush that on the fish.

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How to remove car window tint https://www.popsci.com/diy/remove-car-window-tint/ Fri, 22 Apr 2022 01:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=438732
Photo of a person removing car window tint.
Slow and steady. Deposit Photos

You'll need a heat gun, some safety glasses, and a lot of patience to complete this task.

The post How to remove car window tint appeared first on Popular Science.

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Photo of a person removing car window tint.
Slow and steady. Deposit Photos

This article was originally featured on Car Bibles.

Time Needed: 1-2 Hours, Difficulty: Easy, Cost: $5-$40

The time has finally come. Maybe Johnny Law stopped you for a stern chat, maybe you finally saw the error in your ways and are trying to change, or maybe you’re remedying someone else’s mistakes. No, I’m not talking about becoming a confidential informant in a major bank robbery case, I’m talking about removing tint from your car’s windows.

Whatever your reasoning, we’re here to educate you on methods to remove window tint from your car. Once you complete a few steps at home, you’ll have nothing but fresh glass between you and the outside empirical world. The result will be less attention from the law, better visibility, and a cleaner car. Let’s get to it.

The safety brief

Removing window tint isn’t super risky, but it does involve blades, chemicals, and potentially hot water, so you need to be careful. Grab this equipment to stay safe.

  • Mechanics gloves for not only protecting your hands from razor blades, but to also not coat your hands in gooey, disgusting tint glue.
  • Safety glasses, because who knows, you might get soapy water or Goo Gone in your eye during the process of pulling tint off of your windows
  • Give yourself plenty of room in a well-ventilated area. You’ll be heating up noxious glue and moving your arms a lot while pulling the tint off of your windows. You don’t want to jam your elbows into the garage wall or knock out an unsuspecting child who’s walking by.
  • If you’re working with your car parked on the street, check to make sure you won’t be hassled by a city employee for working on your car where you’re legally not allowed to do so.
  • If you’re using hot water, cover your hands, arms, belly, legs, toes, etc. This could be as simple as wearing close-toed shoes, jeans, a hoodie, a raincoat, and long, thick rubber gloves. Basically, cover up all of your skin so you don’t scald yourself!

The tools and parts you need

We’re going to explain two methods, the heat method and the steam method. They’re essentially one in the same, it just depends on the source of the heat. Here’s what you’ll need. 

Tool List

The task: How to remove window tint

1. Get your door’s window ready.

If you have frameless windows, like those found on some BMW models, you’re already well-setup to start pulling tint. If not, lower your window a tad to gain access to the upper right-side edge, where the horizontal and vertical planes of the glass meet.

2. Heat up the glass.

Heat up the glass on the outside to pull the tint away from the inside. Typically, you want the glass to get to just about being too hot to touch, or around 100 degrees Fahrenheit.

3. Pull the edge.

Using a razor blade, carefully pick at the edge of the tint.

4. Start pulling.

Carefully pull the tint away until you’ve got a good enough area to get three fingers on, and then continue pulling while ensuring it stays hot. Once you have a couple more inches pulled away, take the heat gun and continue heating the bit that’s about to be pulled away. Keep the heat gun pointed at the leading edge, which is easier if you have a friend helping, but otherwise you can totally make it a one-person job.

Keeping the tint hot makes the job a lot easier and also pulls away more glue, making cleaning the glass later on a lot easier.

5. Ensure the tint isn’t tearing away.

Keep checking to make sure the tint isn’t getting torn away. Though, if it’s a cheap tint, it might be a lost cause. Ideally, you should be able to pull the whole piece of film down.

6. Raise the window back up.

Once you get through the top portion of the window, raise the window so you’re able to pull the bottom bit off, but don’t pull it off just yet.

7. Leave the tint attached at the bottom.

Leave it attached, and hang it over the interior of the door, otherwise known as the door card.

8. Spray down the window with soapy water.

Spray it down from top to bottom, and carefully and lightly run the razor blade along the glass from left to right at a 30 degree angle to start pulling up the remaining glue. It’s important to keep the glass saturated while scraping, as you don’t want to scrape/score the windows. You’re essentially squeegeeing the glue off. Also, the purpose of leaving the tint attached at the bottom and hanging over the door card, is to protect the door card and window channel from getting gunked up with old glue. Then, use more soapy water and a clean towel to thoroughly wash the windows.

9. Remove the rest of the tint.

For that final bit you left hanging, wipe off any potential schmutz that’ll get on the door card and pull the rest of the tint off. It’s then a good idea to go over the window with a solvent like Goo Gone to ensure all of the glue residue is completely gone. Leaving some there will mess with visibility (especially on a rainy day) and just look gross.

10. Repeat.

Repeat the above steps for each additional door window, using a fresh razor blade for each window

11. Remove the tint from the rear glass, if necessary.

For the rear glass, do essentially the same process, but get an edge going by carefully cutting a small hole in one of the corners, then use heat to make it pliable and pullable. Having a friend holding the heat gun on the other side of the glass makes this a lot easier, too.

12. Other methods without a heat gun.

You can also use a portable steamer to do all of this, but this could be a tougher way to initially heat up the glass and get the tint ready for pulling. Similarly, carefully pouring on some near-boiling water can work as well. Though, ensure your skin is well protected and insulated, like wearing a hoodie and raincoat, and ensure the rest of your body is covered and insulated as well. You don’t want to scald yourself!

13. Work slowly

Take care to move slowly and methodically. Not only makes the job more efficient, but much safer as well. When we say it takes 1-2 hours, that could be best-case. Maybe carve out an entire afternoon to do this, as it could save you a trip to the emergency room if things go south while wielding a razor blade.

FAQs about removing window tint 

We want to try to answer any questions you have. We’ve selected common points of confusion from our experience, as well as commonly asked questions from popular search results. We answered those questions below.

A: This depends on your local state, county, or even city laws. It’s best to read up on any applicable government websites to see if tints are allowed, and if they are, what the maximum allowed VLT (visible light transmission) is.

Q: Will paint thinner or rubbing alcohol remove tint glue?

A: It will, but it will streak and be harder to clean up. Plus you’d need to be extremely careful with paint thinner around your car’s paint. It’s best to scrape (with adequate soapy water) as much as possible, wash, and then go over it with a special glue-removing solvent like Goo Gone after if needed.

Q: On which side of the glass is window tint typically installed?

A: The inside, but if the previous installer was either lazy or incompetent, it could be on the outside.

Q: I’m removing my tint because it’s too dark, but I still want shade and protection from the sun. What should I do?

A: Look into a tint with a higher VLT, or visible light transmission. The higher the percentage, the more light will be let in, such as 35 percent versus pitch-black 5 percent.

Learn more about window tint from this helpful video

Car Bibles’ editors understand that not everyone is a text-based learner. For those kinesthetic people out there, we have your back with a video showing you exactly how to completely remove window tint.

The post How to remove car window tint appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

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How to build a perfect dehydrated food kit https://www.popsci.com/build-a-dehydrated-food-kit/ Mon, 30 Sep 2019 20:50:44 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/uncategorized/build-a-dehydrated-food-kit/
Outdoor Gear photo

Light weight and long shelf lives make this the perfect camping or survival kit.

The post How to build a perfect dehydrated food kit appeared first on Popular Science.

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Outdoor Gear photo

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The first Americans in space squirted their meals out of tubes. Their successors on the Apollo missions enjoyed somewhat finer fare, nibbling on ­freeze-​dried food. Today, travelers and desk jockeys can enjoy the ­descendants of those space dishes with an array of dehydrated cuisine. The kit below stuffs 2,000 calories in a package ideal for disaster prep or camping trips.

Drink

Typical powdered punch can form clumps when you mix it. Tapioca flour in Nature Restore Organic Pomegranate Juice Powder helps the dehydrated beverage remain smooth.

Breakfast

Cooks at Backpacker’s Pantry season raisins and almonds with cardamom and orange peel to create Indian Rice Pudding. One helping delivers 12 grams of protein plus dashes of calcium and potassium.

Snack

Dried fruit like dates and apricots bind Wild Zora Original Meat & Veggie Bars together for a texture that’s softer and tastier than gas-​station jerky. Each 1-ounce packet delivers 100 calories.

Dinner

Each packet of Good To-Go Pad Thai provides two servings of that sweet and spicy dish, along with 146 grams of carbs. Add about 2 cups of boiling water, wait 15 minutes, then eat it right out of the bag.

Dessert

Most sweets don’t travel well. But the 1.1-ounce Mountain House Ice Cream Sandwich is a room-temperature freeze-dried confection that looks and (mostly) tastes like the real thing.


This story originally published in the Out There issue of Popular Science.

The post How to build a perfect dehydrated food kit appeared first on Popular Science.

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It’s time to make a wood duck box https://www.popsci.com/diy/duck-box-nesting/ Tue, 19 Apr 2022 22:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=438253
Wood ducks in a nesting box.
A mating pair of wood ducks uses a nesting box placed at the edge of the water. Larry Keller/Getty Images

Learn how to make a nesting box to boost your local duck population, step by step.

The post It’s time to make a wood duck box appeared first on Popular Science.

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Wood ducks in a nesting box.
A mating pair of wood ducks uses a nesting box placed at the edge of the water. Larry Keller/Getty Images

This article was originally featured on Field & Stream.

In honor of Earth Month—and Earth Day later this week—we’re celebrating the best way we know how: with a series of stories that are all about getting outside and getting your hands dirty to benefit wild places and wildlife. Every day this week, we’ll share articles about habitat projects, gear-repair tips, and conservation calls-to-action. Welcome to Dirt Week.

At the end of the 19th century, wood ducks were thought to be the most abundant waterfowl species on the continent. By the end of the 20th, they were on the brink of extinction in America through a combination of market gunning, logging, and land development. So, what do you have to thank for the fact that woodies still come squealing into your spread? Two things for the most part: The Migratory Bird Treaty Act of 1918 and wood duck boxes.

Wood ducks evolved to nest in tree cavities, but as large swaths of bottomland timber was cleared and swamps drained, natural tree cavities became scarce. Enter the wood duck box. The first attempt to use them on a large scale came in 1937, when the U.S. Biological Survey erected nearly 500 slab-wood boxes in central Illinois. The second attempt deployed 700 boxes, also in Illinois—and nearly half were used to hatch and rear ducklings. It was proof that the concept worked, and baby wood ducks have been leaping safely out of nesting boxes since.

Today, you can still boost the local population of woodies—and even the regional numbers with the help of other conservation-minded sportsmen–by building a simple nesting box. If properly placed, it will provide a home for generations of ducks, and ducks for generations of sportsmen. There are lots of nesting-box building plans out there, all with slight variations, but the one below, which comes from Ducks Unlimited, is my favorite. The straight roof of this box is just easier to build, compared to slanted versions like the one in the photo above. Also, whereas some boxes open at the top, the side door of this version makes it much easier to access the bottom of the box to replace wood shavings when the time comes. So, let’s get started. Here are step-by-step instructions.

1) Get the lumber

Birds photo
Cedar, with one rough side, is the ideal material for a wood duck box. Dave Hurteau

The first wood duck boxes were made of bark-covered slab-wood, and with current lumber prices, that’s still a good option. Its rough surface provides good footing for baby ducks to climb on, and lumber mills often give it away for free. If you’re going to use finished boards, untreated pine is fine, but cedar is better, as it will last longer outdoors. (Avoid pressure-treated lumber.) Cedar also has a rough side for better baby-duck footing. In any case, you want to start with a 12-foot 1×10, or the equivalent.

2) Crosscut to the right dimensions

Birds photo
You’ll need to crosscut the 1×10 to so you have a total of six lengths: 7.75 inches, 14 inches, three 23.5-inch lengths, and one 31-incher. Dave Hurteau

Crosscut the 1×10 into the proper lengths. You’ll need a 31-inch board for the back of the box. Three 23.5-inch lengths for the sides. A 14-incher for the top. And a 7.75-inch length for the bottom. Mark each board at “back,” “front,” “left side,” etc. so it’s easy to keep track. If you’re using cedar, make sure the rough side goes on the inside of the box.

3) Mark and cut out the hole

Birds photo
Getting the dimensions of the hole correct is important. Dave Hurteau

On the outer face of the front, mark out an oval-shaped entry hole 3.25 inches down from the top that is 4.5 inches wide and 3.5 inches high. Use a jig saw to make the cut. Over many years of trial and error, managers have landed on these dimension as the perfect-size hole, as it is big enough for adult ducks to get in, but too small for nest-raiding raccoons to get in.

4) Make a series of kerf cuts

Birds photo
Shallow kerf cuts below the hole provide footing for ducklings. Dave Hurteau

Now, turn the same board over, and, starting just below the hole, score the interior face with shallow horizontal cuts close together. These will give ducklings a toe-hold for climbing up and out of the box.

5) Attached the first side of the box

Birds photo
Line up the first side to the back and attach with wood screws. Dave Hurteau

Attach the first side panel with using three or four 1-5/8-inch wood screws driven through the back as shown. The back should extend beyond the side by 3.75 inches or so, top and bottom.

6) Make drainage holes in the bottom

Birds photo
Use a 1/2-inch drill bit and make five holes. Dave Hurteau

Using a ½-inch bit, drill five holes in the floor for drainage. Attach the floor with two screws through the back and two through the side. Then attach the front panel of the box to the side and bottom pieces.

7) Attach the last side and the top

Birds photo
The final side of the box acts as a door. Attach it with two screws only at the top, so it swings open for easy access. Dave Hurteau

Bevel the top outer edge of final side, or round it with a sander or file. Then attach it at the top only with one screw through the front board and one through the back. These screws will act as hinges, allowing this side to function as a door that swings open. Drill a small hole through the bottom right of the front piece and into the side of the door. Insert a nail of a slightly smaller diameter to pin the door shut.

8) Put up your wood duck box

Birds photo
Erect your wood duck box at the water’s edge in an area with good cover. Dave Hurteau

Finally, attached the roof and put 6 inches of wood shavings (not sawdust) in the bottom and place the box directly above the water or along the water’s edge by fixing it to a tree or a metal pole. Be sure to include a predator guard to keep raccoons and rat snakes and the like out. A conical metal flange or sheet work well, as does a simple section of 8-inch-diameter PVC pipe. Keep the box at a height you can reach, say 5 feet, as you will need to replace the wood shavings yearly. Then get ready to see more wood ducks along your local creeks and ponds.

The post It’s time to make a wood duck box appeared first on Popular Science.

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Today’s the day you learn to install a car battery https://www.popsci.com/diy/how-to-install-car-battery/ Mon, 18 Apr 2022 16:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=437959
Car battery.
Let's break it down step by step. Deposit Photos

A step-by-step guide to removing the old one and installing the new one.

The post Today’s the day you learn to install a car battery appeared first on Popular Science.

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Car battery.
Let's break it down step by step. Deposit Photos

This article was originally featured on Car Bibles.

Time Needed: Less than 30 minutes, Difficulty: Beginner, Cost: Price of a new battery ($60-300)

Years ago when I still lived in a campus apartment at Ohio State University, I passed by two college kids cluelessly tinkering underneath the hood of a Hyundai Elantra. I had deduced that the car wouldn’t start, and somehow the two had skipped the jumper cables and instead gone straight to replacing the battery. After screwing around with all the controls, they figured out how to pop the hood, looked at the engine, and said, “oh crap, it’s a hybrid.”

There was no Elantra hybrid back then. The two college kids got confused by the cover with a red wire and black wire sticking out of it, shielding a standard 12-volt battery. When they finally got the cover off, they didn’t know what to do next. I don’t want that situation to ever happen again to anyone else, so we’ve gathered a helpful guide all about  how to remove and install a car battery. Let’s get started.

The safety brief

Car batteries are a pretty ubiquitous technology, and the risk of electric shock is generally low. But low risk doesn’t mean no risk. Car batteries should be handled with the utmost care. Before you do anything, consider these tips:

  • Wear long sleeves and long pants, if possible. Your car battery contains a mild acid that stores energy. It can cause acute to mild chemical burns if it contacts the skin. Keep the battery upright when lifting and try to keep it away from your skin. Be sure to inspect your battery, both new and old, for any cracks, bulging, or leaking electrolyte. These are all signs the battery should be immediately replaced.
  • Wear rubber gloves. Even a thin rubber glove will act as an insulator, both from any accidental acid spills, or any stray arcing of electricity. The risks are low, but remember, low risk does not equal no risk. 
  • Wear safety glasses. There are all sorts of fluids, dirt, and grime that build up in an engine bay, where your battery lives. Not only will glasses protect against any potential acid spills, it also keeps irritating particles out. Always wear glasses when working under the hood.
  • Lift with your legs when moving a car battery. Some car batteries can weigh up to 40 lbs. Don’t hurt yourself, lift with your legs, not your back. We’d hate for you to end up with permanent back damage over what should be a simple 10-minute repair.

The tools and parts you need

Generally speaking, car batteries aren’t super complicated to remove and install. A few manufacturers might put them in odd inaccessible places that require extra tools, but that’s unlikely. Here’s what you should need:

  • socket set and/or wrench set. Commonly, the bolts that hold the terminals to the battery in most cars will be held on with 10mm nuts or bolts. If you’re not sure of the size, an adjustable crescent wrench may work, but be careful not to round out those nuts.

The prep: How to remove the old battery

If you’re installing a new battery, that likely means there’s an old battery to remove. Don’t worry, it’s a simple job.

  1. Assure the car is secured and in a safe location. If it’s in a garage, make sure the door is open. Make sure the car is in park (or first gear, if it’s a manual transmission vehicle), with the rear wheels chocked, or the parking brake engaged.
  2. Open the hood or trunk, depending on the vehicle. Occasionally, the battery may be located in a less convenient place. If the location isn’t obvious, check the vehicle’s owner’s manual for the battery location.
  3. Find the negative and positive battery terminals. Remember, positive is red, negative is black. Typically, the positive terminal has a small plastic cover with a plus sign that can be easily pried back. The negative terminal may have a negative sign nearby, but not always. 
  4. Start by removing the negative battery terminal first. Take your wrench or ratchet and slowly crank or turn counter-clockwise. You likely don’t need to remove the nut or bolt entirely off, but just loosen it enough to get the terminals off. Wiggle the negative battery terminal off of the battery pos, and move it out of the way where it doesn’t touch anything. Make sure the battery terminal isn’t stretching or binding too much. 
  5. Repeat the steps for the positive battery terminal and take note of how the terminals are positioned. 
  6. Not every vehicle has this, but remove the battery bracket/brace if so equipped.
  7. Generally, most batteries have some sort of grab handle, but it may be broken or missing entirely. Be sure to take care when lifting the battery out of the vehicle. 
  8. As an optional step, this is a great  time to consider cleaning your battery terminals

The task: How to install a car battery step by step

Once the battery is out and the terminals are cleaned up, it’s time to install the fresh battery.

  1. Take your new matching battery and reinstall it in its home. Be sure to pay attention to what terminals go where and make sure the battery is securely in position. 
  2. If so equipped, reinstall the battery’s securing posts. 
  3. Reconnect and tighten the cable to the positive terminal first, then the negative terminal. The cables should be snug on the terminals, unable to move.
  4. Once it’s buttoned up, make sure everything is working by starting the vehicle. If all’s good, it should fire right up.
  5. Close the hood, make sure all of your tools are out of the engine bay, and you’re done!

FAQs about installing car batteries

We want to try to answer any questions you have. We’ve selected common points of confusion from our experience, as well as commonly asked questions from popular search results. We answered those questions below.

Q: Does it matter which way you install your battery?

A: Absolutely yes. Your battery (and car) is designed to take the battery’s energy in one direction. Positive to positive, negative to negative. Any reversal of this could cause serious damage to the vehicle’s electrical system or battery. Before you remove the old battery, take a photo for easy reference.

Q: How do I know what kind of battery my car takes?

A: That’s trickier, but the battery size and type are generally found in the vehicle’s owner’s manual. If not, the old battery will often have a sticker on the front or top that shows the battery’s size and type. If all of those tricks fail, the clerk at your local auto parts store should be able to ascertain the correct battery type. 

Q: What do I do with the old battery?

A: Most local municipalities, junkyards, and auto parts stores have battery recycling programs. Whatever you do, please dispose of it safely! The materials in car batteries can be very harmful to the environment if not disposed of properly. That “let’s throw our batteries in the ocean” joke is just a stupid meme. Please don’t do that.

Q: Uh, my clock shows 12:00 and my radio presets are gone. What happened?

A: This is normal. Depending on how long the battery was removed, the car’s computerized systems were completely de-energized, which means the car forgot all of its stored settings.

Learn more about car batteries from this helpful video

When written out, the steps probably look longer and more complicated than they really are. Here’s a simple, easy-to-follow video from parts store O’Reilly.

The post Today’s the day you learn to install a car battery appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

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How to go zero-waste at the grocery store https://www.popsci.com/diy/zero-waste-grocery-shopping/ Mon, 18 Apr 2022 15:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=437762
produce in recyclable bags
You don't even have to buy fancy eco-friendly bags to start. Markus Spiske / Unsplash

You don't need to buy anything to start.

The post How to go zero-waste at the grocery store appeared first on Popular Science.

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produce in recyclable bags
You don't even have to buy fancy eco-friendly bags to start. Markus Spiske / Unsplash

The idea of an existence free from single-use plastic is intoxicating. Sometimes it even seems imperative, what with the World Economic Forum saying the ocean will be filled with more plastic than fish by 2050. But the idea of a zero-waste lifestyle can also sound intimidating and unattainable. This is especially true when you think about everything you buy each week and realize how much of it is just made to be thrown in the trash.

Fortunately, reducing the waste we produce doesn’t have to be all or nothing. In fact, there’s plenty we can do on an individual level to help keep single-use out of use, starting with a simple trip to the grocery store.

What is zero-waste?

As the name implies, zero-waste is a way of living that produces as little waste as possible. And it’s not just something universities, cities, and states are increasingly committing to—it’s an achievable mission for individuals and families, too. At this level, zero-waste means buying fewer single-use products and repurposing reusable items as often as you can, all with the goal of throwing less garbage into overflowing landfills.

People throw away their weight in garbage every month, and in addition to creating environmental and public health issues, we’re running out of room to store it all. Throwing plastic in the recycle bin isn’t an ideal solution, either: In 2018, we recycled only 8.7 percent of plastics, due in large part to non-recyclable items contaminating the process.

[Related: Can zero-waste stores be affordable for everyone?]

From a practical standpoint, zero-waste living includes compost bins for food scraps, reusable silicone bags instead of disposable zip-tops, glass jars instead of plastic containers, and buying food from bulk bins or in cardboard packaging.

It’s easier to achieve a zero-waste lifestyle if you think of products in a circular way instead of in the typical linear manner of buy-use-trash-repeat. When you’re at the store, ask yourself if you can use what you’re purchasing just once or if you’ll be able to reuse it and recycle it. For example, you can repurpose a glass jar and even if you don’t have alternative uses for it, it can be recycled infinitely. A plastic bag, on the other hand, is difficult to recycle (if at all) and will promptly end up in a landfill or in waterways.

A common mistake is thinking zero-waste is only for the wealthy. Yes, filling your fridge with local, organic farmers market produce, buying lip balm packaged in cardboard, and avoiding single-use plastic entirely can be resource-intensive—but it doesn’t have to be. 

In fact, according to Isaias Hernandez, environmental justice & sustainability advocate, educator, and creator of Queer Brown Vegan, shopping with the goal of creating less waste is about asking how we can extend ourselves to a deeper level of thinking. This means thinking less about the things you can buy to reduce waste and more about what happens to those products once you’re done with them. 

Tips for shopping zero-waste

First, know that you don’t have to buy a single thing to create less waste with your grocery shopping. 

“It’s important to remember the most eco-friendly thing you can do is use what you already have,” says Kathryn Kellogg, the founder of sustainable lifestyle website Going Zero Waste.

Use every drop of cooking oil or toothpaste. Learn how to store food so it lasts longer. Repurpose salsa jars for leftovers. Use any old bag-like item to carry bulk products—Hernandez recommends pillowcases and the like. Don’t feel the need to go purchase fancy new “eco-friendly” products when things you already have will work just as well.

Then get shopping. Become familiar with the bulk bins at grocery stores near you and bring glass jars or reusable bags to fill with things like grains, beans, nuts, and dried fruit. Farmers’ markets are also a great way to score produce that’s often free from packaging.

If neither is a practical option for you, choose items in glass or metal packaging as they are easier to recycle. Cardboard creates less waste, too, as it is both recyclable and biodegradable.

In the produce department, opt for whole, fresh produce and forego the plastic produce bags or pre-cut products in disposable containers. Leave fruit and vegetables loose in your cart or bring your own reusable bags if you don’t want to fumble with a dozen apples.

If you never seem to remember your reusable shopping bags, leave a few in the backseat of your car or, as Kellogg suggests, clip several small packable bags together and attach them to your key ring or on your bike so they’re always available.

Then, proceed to create less waste by buying less. According to studies, 40 percent of food in the US is wasted, so take stock of how much you actually eat so you don’t end up throwing anything out. Also, consider replacing that one big weekly haul with more short trips to the grocery store so you only buy exactly what you need.

If you’re feeling ambitious and have the space, learn to compost food scraps, including peels, cores, and eggshells, and use them to fertilize your plants.

Also, keep in mind expiration dates are not federally regulated and don’t indicate an actual deadline by which food becomes inedible—they’re more of a guideline for freshness than a hard-and-fast rule. So don’t just toss food because it’s past the date on the package. 

“It’s always best to do a taste and smell test before throwing things out,” Kellogg suggests.

Avoid single-serve snacks and instead buy larger quantities that you can separate into your own smaller reusable containers at home. Skip bottled water—tap water is actually more regulated than what you can find at the store, so stick with what you get at home. If you don’t like the taste of your water, investing in a filter is a great idea.

[Related: How to keep food, plastic, and fabric out of the landfill]

As for other household items, swap disposables like paper towels, napkins, plastic wrap, and baggies with reusable waste-free alternatives like cloth towels, reusable wax wraps, washable silicone bags, resealable storage containers, and more. As a bonus, you’ll save money in the long run.

Finally, if you have the capacity, make products like yogurt, tomato sauce, and snack bars at home instead of buying them in disposable packaging. If you’re really feeling adventurous, take a foraging course or learn how to grow your own herbs and vegetables. Then, when you do have to buy stuff, opt for packaging you can upcycle: you can use jars to store tomorrow’s lunch, and hot sauce bottles for homemade salad dressing. The options are endless.

Every bit matters

According to Hernandez, zero-waste grocery shopping, just like sustainability in general, is a spectrum. 

“Don’t focus on perfectionism,” he says, especially if doing so has a negative impact on your physical or mental health. 

He suggests starting with a question: How can I reduce waste by 10 percent? Look at your cart, take stock of how much plastic and waste is there, and make one swap at a time as it’s feasible and practical. You’ll be reducing the amount of waste you create in no time.

The post How to go zero-waste at the grocery store appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

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A beginner’s guide to selecting, planting, and protecting a new tree https://www.popsci.com/environment/backyard-tree-planting-shopping/ Sun, 17 Apr 2022 21:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=437470
Person planting small tree
Once you've done your research, the next step is giving you tree a new home. Alfo Medeiros on Pexels

This Earth Day, bring a little bit of nature to your own yard.

The post A beginner’s guide to selecting, planting, and protecting a new tree appeared first on Popular Science.

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Person planting small tree
Once you've done your research, the next step is giving you tree a new home. Alfo Medeiros on Pexels

The following is an excerpt of Now Is the Time for Trees by Dan Lambe.

So, you’ve done your homework and determined what you want in a tree and how you want it to contribute to your landscape. You’ve familiarized yourself with the nature of your growing region and assessed the specific conditions of your planting site. You’ve considered all the ways in which a tree can create a more comfortable environment, providing tangible environmental and economic benefits. You’ve learned about the different parts of a tree and how each of them function. Best of all, you’ve gotten a glimpse of the many beautiful types of trees that can enhance your landscape and transform it into a sanctuary that enriches life for everyone in your household and even your larger community. Now comes the really exciting part—selecting a healthy tree and planting it!

Good tree care starts with choosing a healthy tree. Remember, your tree will be with you for years, maybe even generations, to come. Here’s what to look for when purchasing a tree to ensure that it gets off to a healthy start and can provide a lifetime of benefits.

Shopping for trees

When shopping for trees at the nursery, choosing a tree with a strong cen-tral leader is especially important for shade trees. Avoid trees with multiple leaders. Low branches, while temporary, help promote growth and protect plants from sun scald—so be sure they look healthy as well.

At the nursery, you’ll find plants have been categorized based on how they were produced, harvested, and prepared for retail. The various options, which include container-grown trees, ball-and-burlap specimens, and bare root plants, require different handling and planting techniques.

Container-grown trees have spent their entire nursery life growing in a container. A well-tended container-grown tree has been carefully monitored and moved up into gradually larger containers as the plant grows. If a tree outgrows its container without being moved up, its roots will begin to circle or twist within the container, which may lead to girdling, or strangling the plant’s vascular system, and root die-off. 

It’s perfectly acceptable to gently remove a tree from its container at the nursery to inspect the roots. Roots will continue to grow in the direction they are already pointing. Fine circling roots may be untangled or cut away at planting. Larger, woody roots may be straightened if they are still flexible.

Projects photo
Arbor Day Foundation

Container-grown trees may be planted at any point in the year provided the soil is workable and not frozen, knowing that the hottest days will require frequent watering. 

Ball-and-burlap trees are grown in the ground until they have achieved targeted size. When a tree is ready to be moved, the root ball is dug along with a mass of surrounding soil, then wrapped in burlap in preparation for transporting and resale. Larger root balls may be further supported by a wire basket cage over the burlap.

When purchasing a ball-and-burlap tree, look for a firm root ball that is securely tied. It’s critically important that the root ball is large enough to support the maturity of the tree; it should be about 10 to 12 inches wide for every 1 inch of trunk diameter measured at a point 6 inches above the root collar. Avoid buying plants with damaged or compressed root balls; rounded or misshapen root balls may indicate woody root loss.

Always carry a ball-and-burlap tree while supporting the root ball. Moving or lifting the tree by its trunk may cause the root ball to separate from the trunk.

Because ball-and-burlap trees are dug from a nursery field, most of the root system has been removed. Don’t worry, though, they will quickly regrow a functioning root system. But that means ball-and-burlap trees should be planted during cooler weather, avoiding the hottest, most stressful time of year.

Preparation is everything

After making sure that you select a healthy, well-formed tree, properly preparing your planting site is the best thing you can do to get your tree off toa strong start. 

Before you plant, make sure your tree is thoroughly hydrated by watering the container or root ball several hours before proceeding; it’s very difficult to rewet a large root ball that has dried out after the tree has been planted.

When planting a tree into a lawn, remove a circle of grass at least 3 feet in diameter where the tree will go to reduce competition between turf and fine tree roots. In areas where the lawn is the primary design feature, select small trees with open canopies that will allow sunlight to penetrate to the ground. Remove turf altogether where surface tree roots—most prevalent where topsoil is compacted—may be damaged in the future by mowing.

Planting container-grown and ball-and-burlap trees

Gather your tools. You’ll need a measuring tape or ruler to help guide you in digging your planting hole and placing the root ball at the proper depth.The majority of a young tree’s roots develop in the top 12 inches of soil,where water and oxygen are most accessible. If the tree is planted too deeply, new roots will have difficulty developing due to a lack of oxygen. In poorly drained or heavy clay soils, trees can be planted with the base of the root collar above grade—1 inch for every inch of trunk diameter.

  • Measure the root ball, either in the container or ball-and-burlap, to determine how wide and how deep of a planting hole to dig for your tree.
  • Dig a broad, shallow planting hole with gently sloping sides that is three to four times wider than the diameter of the root mass and the same depth. Mounding removed soil on a tarp makes backfilling and clean-up a snap. Further loosening the soil on the sloping sides of the plantinghole allows roots to easily expand and establish faster, but don’t disturb soil at the bottom of the hole.
  • If you are planting a containerized tree, prepare the root ball for planting. Sharply tap the outside of the container to loosen and remove the root ball from the container, being careful to keep the soil around the roots intact. You may need to slice the plastic pot, from lip to bottom, to facilitate loosening the root ball. To remedy circling or congested roots ,use a sharp knife to carefully slice an X across the bottom of the root balland to make four vertical slices along the sides of the soil mass. This will encourage roots to branch at the point where they were cut and move out into the surrounding soil.
  • Set your tree in the middle of the planting hole. Remember to lift by supporting the root ball. Don’t pull on the trunk or the roots may separate from the tree. Double check to make sure that the planting holehas been dug to the proper depth and no deeper. The root collar should be just above soil level; if it’s too low, compact soil beneath the root ball to raise it to the correct level.
  • For ball-and-burlap trees, once the root ball is in position, use wire cutters to cut vertically up the side of the wire basket and peel it away.Remove all rope or twine from the root ball as well as any nails that may be holding the burlap together. Pull the burlap away from the top and sides of the root ball and cut away any loose material. Don’t worry about regular burlap under the root ball, because it will naturally break down over time. But vinyl or coated burlap should be removed completely.
  • Straighten the tree in the hole. Before backfilling, have someone view the tree from several directions to confirm that the tree is straight. As you can imagine, it is very difficult to reposition a tree once it’s planted.
  • Replace the soil, while firmly but gently tamping the original soil around the base of the root ball to stabilize it. Do not amend the backfill or apply fertilizer at planting time. Keep backfilling until the soil is just below the root collar.
  • Create a water-holding basin around the tree by building up a ring of soil—or flip over the grass you removed to make room for the tree and build a ring with that—and then water thoroughly to settle roots and eliminate air pockets that may cause roots to dry out.
  • Spread protective mulch 2 to 4 inches deep in a 3-foot diameter area around the base of the tree, but not touching the trunk.
  • Other than removing dead and broken limbs, avoid pruning your tree at planting.

Tending to your newly planted tree

How you care for your tree in its first and early years of life will affect its shape, strength, and even its life span. It’s hard to get a tree to its second year if it doesn’t live through its first. The best thing you can do for a newly planted tree is to keep it watered well during the first year after planting.You’ll want to water it weekly so that the soil stays moist, but not soggy. A simple trick is to stick your thumb in the soil. If it comes out dry or dusty,the tree needs water. If it comes out muddy, then it doesn’t need water.

In dry spells, water the entire area within a little beyond the drip line to keep soil and mulch moist but not soggy; avoid waterlogged conditions.Water the tree about once a week, enough to have the soil damp to a depth of1 to 3 feet, depending on the tree’s size. Mulching with wood chips, bark, or other organic material helps retain soil moisture and reduces competition from weeds and grass.

Studies have shown that trees establish more quickly and develop stronger trunks and root systems if they are not staked at the time of planting.However, staking may be required for bare root stock and container grown conifers or when planting on windy sites. Stakes can also prevent lawn mower damage. If you decide to stake, use two opposing flexible straps placed as low on the tree as possible to perform the task. The tree should be able to sway in the wind—without the root ball moving— which aids trunk and root development. Check support staking regularly for damage to the trunk and remove all straps and ties after the first year of growth.

It’s important that tree roots expand and establish in the native soil.Soil properties are extremely difficult to change with an amendment of any kind. Do not add potting soil or organic or chemical fertilizer on your newly planted trees, which can cause water logging or burn roots.

Keep vines away from newly planted trees, and remove all tags and labels.Not only are labels an eyesore in the landscape, leaving them in place can strangle limbs as the tree grows. After you remove them, keep labels some-where safe for future reference.

Dan Lambe is the CEO of the Arbor Day Foundation.

Excerpted from Now Is the Time for Trees by Dan Lambe, published by Timber Press. All other rights reserved.

The post A beginner’s guide to selecting, planting, and protecting a new tree appeared first on Popular Science.

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Expand your horizons by adding a second screen to your computer https://www.popsci.com/story/diy/add-second-screen/ Sun, 17 Apr 2022 16:14:43 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/uncategorized/add-second-screen/
A laptop computer set up with two screens and backlit by a purple LED light.
More screen, more space, more windows, more, more, more. Alexandru Acea / Unsplash

Two is always better than one.

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A laptop computer set up with two screens and backlit by a purple LED light.
More screen, more space, more windows, more, more, more. Alexandru Acea / Unsplash

This story has been updated. It was originally published on November 22, 2019.

In terms of boosting productivity, one of the best upgrades you can give your laptop or desktop computer is not a faster processor, more RAM, or extra storage space—it’s adding a second screen to your setup.

Having double the screen space might not immediately seem like it could revolutionize how quickly you get stuff done, but consider how often you have two or more programs open, and how long it takes you to jump from one to the other.

Comparing websites, spreadsheets, documents, hard drive folders, emails, or photos side-by-side is way more comfortable and can save you a ton of time as you replace all those seconds spent clicking, dragging, and moving the mouse, with a near-instant flick of your eyes.

Even better, this is an upgrade that’s relatively easy to do, once you’ve swallowed the cost of the extra hardware. Both Windows and macOS are set up to immediately recognize and make use of an additional monitor, so you won’t have to spend long configuring your second screen.

Buying and using a second screen

Two programmers looking at computers in an office. One is using two screens.
Look at these guys—they’re not losing any time switching between programs. One of them even had time to put his hair up. Puhhha / Depositphotos

Monitor prices range from budget to very, very expensive, so take some time to shop around for the best deal when you’re deciding where to spend your money. Unless you’re working in graphic design or video editing, a mid-range budget monitor will do just fine.

The two key specifications to watch out for are the monitor size in inches (how big the screen is), and the resolution in pixels (how sharp the screen is). As with most things, the bigger and sharper, the better, so a good way to choose is to go as high as possible on those two metrics while staying within your budget.

Brightness levels and contrast ratios are important, too (again, the higher the better), as is the underlying tech that the screen is made from. For general use, look for a vertical alignment (VA) LCD monitor, though professionals might want to upgrade to an in-plane switching (IPS) LCD display instead. Picture quality varies from display to display, but IPS typically offers better-quality blacks, at the expense of a wider viewing angle.

[Related: Best monitors for home offices in 2022]

We don’t want to dazzle you with too many tech terms and specifications, though, because besides the size and resolution, this is one of those hardware purchases where you don’t really need to agonize too much over your choices. Checking online reviews or—even better—going out to physically look at computer displays in a store will usually be more informative than a specs sheet.

What is crucial, though, is that you get a second screen that can connect to your desktop or laptop. HDMI, DisplayPort, Thunderbolt, and USB-C are the key connection standards to look out for, so make sure the outputs on your computer match at least one of the inputs on your monitor.

If you’ve set your heart on a monitor that doesn’t match your computer’s video outputs, you can often get a dongle or an adapter to get everything working—like this $70 Apple adapter that’ll take the USB-C output from a MacBook and turn it into an HDMI feed compatible with most monitors. You can also get a hub adapter, like this one from Anker, that for $50 will give you three standard USB ports, an HDMI port, and an ethernet port.

If you’re adding a second screen to your desktop, try to get something that matches the size of your original display—it’s easier on your eyes to keep flicking between two displays with identical dimensions. If you’re using a laptop, more screen space on your second screen is usually better, within reason.

How to add a second screen on Windows

The display options for a Windows 10 computer.
You can move the displays around and even use your monitor in a vertical orientation. David Nield

All you really need to do to add a second display to Windows is to power up the monitor and connect it to your laptop or desktop. Windows will instantly recognize that you’ve added a second screen, and extend your desktop wallpaper across the new display accordingly.

If this auto-configuration hasn’t quite worked properly, or you just want to fiddle around with your options, go to Settings (click the cog icon on the left-hand side of the start menu), then choose System and Display. You should see your two screens represented in the next dialog box, labeled 1 and 2 (click Identify to work out which is which). If you don’t, you can click Detect to ask your computer to look for the connection.

If you need to, click and drag the display icons around and make sure they match your physical setup—so you’ve got the left and the right monitor identified correctly, for example. Further down you can set the resolution and orientation of each display (most of the time it’s best to simply leave the recommended settings in place here).

Use the Make this my main display checkbox to set which of your displays counts as the primary one—that is, the one that shows the Start menu and the taskbar, and where most of the pop-up dialog boxes are going to appear.

With the displays correctly configured, you can simply drag open app windows from one display to another to get them correctly positioned. Have one screen for your social media feeds and one for your emails, for example; or one screen for watching videos and another for browsing the web. If you maximize any of the windows on screen, they’ll take up the entirety of the display they’re currently on.

As an added bonus, we’d like to mention DisplayFusion ($30 with free trial). It adds on a host of extra features for multi-monitor setups on Windows, including options to duplicate the taskbar on both screens, save your open window configurations, dim the display that’s not currently in use, and more.

Adding a second screen on macOS

The display options on a macOS Apple computer
Arranging the displays will allow you tp set up how the two displays relate to each other. David Nield

Setting up a second screen on macOS is just as simple as on Windows—power up the second display, plug it into your Mac, and your computer should detect it. To change the position of the monitors (which is left and which is right), open the Apple menu, then choose System Preferences, Displays, and Arrangement, then drag the windows into place.

To see which display is which, click and hold on one of the windows, and a red border will appear around it (in the dialog box and on the monitor). You can set the resolution and scale of your screens by switching to the Display tab in the same dialog box (actually, two dialog boxes will open up, one for each screen).

[Related: 23 useful Mac settings hiding in plain sight]

As with Windows, just drag your open windows and browser tabs between the displays to move them from one screen to another. Again, maximizing any of the open app windows will fill the display it’s currently on.

We’d like to plug another utility here: Magnet for macOS, which will set you back $8. It makes arranging open windows much easier, whether you’re using them on one display or two. You can swap windows to the sides and corners of the screen, for example, as on Windows, by dragging them to the edges of one of your displays.

Since macOS Catalina, Apple has also offered the ability to use an iPad as a secondary display, a feature known as Sidecar. You can use the feature wirelessly, if your Mac and iPad are on the same WiFi network, or you can plug your tablet into your computer with a charging cable. You do need a fairly recent iPad and Mac for this to work—check here for a full list of supported devices.

To enable the second display, click the AirPlay button (an arrow and a rectangle) in the menu bar on macOS, then choose your iPad from the list. If you don’t see it, you might have to go to System Preferences and Displays to turn on the AirPlay Display option. The iPad works just like a second monitor, so you can drag windows to and from it, and use the Displays option in System Preferences to configure its position.

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How to connect a soundbar to a TV: HDMI ARC vs optical https://www.popsci.com/diy/hdmi-arc-vs-optical/ Wed, 23 Mar 2022 18:14:36 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=433359
Sennheiser AMBEO underbelly with HDMI cables
The Sennheiser AMBEO soundbar's underbelly hides its ports panel, including ones for HDMI and optical. Markkus Rovito

Connecting a soundbar to a TV can take only one or two cables, but have you asking questions like HDMI ARC vs optical. Here are answers.

The post How to connect a soundbar to a TV: HDMI ARC vs optical appeared first on Popular Science.

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Sennheiser AMBEO underbelly with HDMI cables
The Sennheiser AMBEO soundbar's underbelly hides its ports panel, including ones for HDMI and optical. Markkus Rovito

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While the picture quality of the best TVs seems to improve year over year, the internal speakers of these increasingly slim, stunning panels don’t really do those vivid images justice … which is why you want to connect a soundbar. And it’s no surprise that soundbars, which can supplement those tinny tones with almost movie theater-level audio, seem to grow in popularity every year. If you’re planning to upgrade your home theater, you want to make sure you’re getting all the thrills you paid for, so here’s our guide on how to connect a soundbar to a TV and what you should know when picking HDMI vs optical cables.

Step up to the ’bar

So you’ve got a new smart TV with built-in Netflix, Amazon Prime Video, etc. Or you’ve going to plug an Apple TV and a PlayStation 5 into your TV. Whatever your sources, you’re going to want to get the most sound with the least amount of cables connecting a soundbar to a TV.

An entry-level soundbar can be had for less than $100, and there are plenty of options under $300, or even under $500, etc. Conversely, the best soundbar for a TV (for example, the Sennheiser AMBEO, which has the newest HDMI 2.1 port) will cost you well over $2,000. Regardless of the price, there can be some confusion regarding how to connect a soundbar to a TV. Do you only need High-Definition Multimedia Interface (aka HDMI) cables, or do you also need an optical audio cable? If you only need an HDMI cable, can it be any HDMI cable? Well, we have your answers.

Those answers largely depend on how old the equipment is and what level of HDMI technology both the soundbar and TV incorporate. Many devices made before 2009, as well as some after that, require both an HDMI cable and an optical audio cable. Newer TVs and soundbars can be connected with a single HDMI cord. And the latest multidimensional audio formats, such as the red-hot object-based Dolby Atmos and DTS:X standards, require a single HDTV cable of a certain bandwidth but are well worth that consideration.

Once you take a little time to learn how to connect a soundbar to a TV for max effect, you’ll see that it’s really quite easy despite some technological details. And when you hear the results, whether it’s just enhanced stereo or fully futuristic spatial audio, you’ll be glad you did.

HDMI ARC vs optical cables

All HDMI cables transmit both audio and video. However, from roughly 2003-2009, HDMI cables only shuttled A/V data in one direction. So when connecting a TV to a soundbar or A/V receiver, you would use an HDMI cable for the video and a second connection, such as an optical digital audio cable, to send the sound “downstream.”

When the Audio Return Channel (ARC) standard was introduced to HDMI cables in 2009, it allowed for convenient two-way communication over a single HDMI cable between a compatible TV and an equally equipped soundbar or A/V receiver. ARC has a higher maximum audio bandwidth than optical connections, and ARC also supported Consumer Electronics Control (CEC), which meant that a remote for the TV could also control the power, volume, and mute functions of the soundbar. ARC also enabled the TV manufacturers to correct lip-synching problems between the TV’s video and the soundbar’s audio.

However, not all electronics manufacturers adopted all the ARC capabilities across the board. With the introduction of the much higher-bandwidth Enhanced Audio Return Channel (eARC) HDMI protocol in 2017, lip-sync correction was made mandatory, CEC setup was often simplified, and full audio codec support became much more widespread.

What does HDMI eARC vs. ARC mean for cables?

eARC comparison table
As A/V data channels go, the HDMI eARC is the best, and here’s why … HDMI Licensing Administrator, Inc.

The original ARC HDMI standard from 2009 can be used with just about any HDMI cable and, with CEC enabled, it allows the TV to control the soundbar. However, ARC does not support more recent surround-sound audio formats, such as uncompressed 7.1-channel audio and the exciting formats of the moment—Dolby Atmos and DTS:X—as well as other high-bitrate audio, such as Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio (which support resolutions up to 24-bit/192kHz). So those Netflix 4K streams and Blu-ray discs aren’t going to sound their best, unless …

All of the best soundbars for TVs in 2022 are touting Dolby Atmos and/or DTS:X compatibility, so to experience those spatial audio formats from your soundbar, you’ll need a TV with an eARC HDMI port. Luckily, many TVs from 2018 and onward support it, so if you’re investing in one of the best OLED TVs or one of the best QLED TVs on the market right now, you’re set on that end.

However, not just any HDMI cable will do. To connect eARC TVs to eARC soundbars, you’ll need to look for cables with designations HDMI with Ethernet, High-Speed HDMI Cable with Ethernet, or the next-generation Ultra High-Speed HDMI Cable (the futureproofed option). If you purchase a new eARC soundbar, in all likelihood it will include a capable HDMI cable to connect to your TV, but that’s what to look for if you need to check.

In the scenario where your TV has eARC but the soundbar only has ARC, or vice versa, the connection between the devices should most likely work, but you will not be able to take advantage of the high-bitrate audio formats that eARC can provide unless both are on the same standard.

How to connect a soundbar to a TV: HDMI ARC vs optical

So that’s what you need to connect a soundbar to a TV. As for how to connect a soundbar to a TV, just follow these steps (for simplicity’s sake, this example is between two eARC devices):

1.  Power off both the TV and the soundbar. Also, to be extra safe, disconnect the power cords from both the TV and soundbar.

2. Connect the TV’s HDMI eARC port to the soundbar’s eARC port using an Ultra-High-Speed HDMI cable. In the rare case that your TV does not have an HDMI port labeled eARC or ARC, connect the HDMI cable from the soundbar’s HDMI TV port to any HDMI port on the TV. That connection will handle the video (and possibly basic audio). In addition, you will need to connect an optical digital audio cable to both devices to handle the sound. Connect an optical audio cable (no longer than 5 meters) from the TV’s Optical Out (or OPT OUT) to the soundbar’s Optical In (or OPT IN).  

3. Connect any of your other video devices with HDMI outputs, such as Blu-ray players or video game consoles, to the TV’s other ports. Alternatively, connect them to the soundbar’s other HDMI inputs. If you are using ARC/eARC, either the TV and soundbar can act as the hub/source selection for all external devices, and pass the audio and video signals through. It ultimately depends on where you have the most available ports and feel like selecting inputs.

4. Reconnect the power cords to the TV and soundbar and power on both devices.

5. Access the TV menu settings to enable full operation with the soundbar. In many cases, you will need to adjust one or more settings in your TV’s menu to ensure full compatibility with your soundbar. The instructions for adjusting the audio settings vary depending on the brand and model of your TV.

In general, you will need to access the Sound Settings or the Audio Settings from the TV menu and set the HDMI Audio Out, Optical Out, or Digital Audio settings to Auto/Bypass/Pass-Through, PCM, or Digital/Bitstream.

You may also need to access the TV’s System, Sound, or Expert settings and enable the HDMI eARC, ARC, and/or CEC modes. For more specific instructions for your exact TV model, consult the TV’s manual or the TV maker’s website to find the exact menu settings needed to connect a soundbar to the TV.

How the TV and soundbar remote controls work once connected

When an eARC soundbar and compatible TV are connected with all the TV menu settings in order, the TV’s remote control and built-in controls will be able to power both devices on and off. And the TV’s volume controls will control the soundbar’s volume, while the TV’s internal speakers will be bypassed. The soundbar’s remote control should also be able to power both devices on and off. Both remotes will have device-specific controls that the other can’t do, so you’ll still want to keep them both handy or else replace them both with a universal remote.

What is the soundbar’s best TV connection called?

Sennheiser AMBEO recessed port panel labels
Manufacturers label their sockets differently, but you’re golden as long as you locate the one that says “eARC.” Markkus Rovito

Depending on the brand of your soundbar, the HDMI port that offers full functionality with an eARC TV may display somewhat differently. The following list shows how popular soundbar brands label their HDMI eARC ports:

  • JBL soundbar: HDMI OUT (TV ARC/TV eARC)
  • Klipsch soundbar: HDMI-ARC
  • LG soundbar: (TV eARC/ARC) HDMI OUT
  • Samsung soundbar: HDMI TO TV (eARC/ARC)
  • Sennheiser soundbar: HDMI TV (eARC) OUT
  • Sony soundbar: HDMI OUT TV (eARC/ARC)
  • Vizio soundbar: HDMI OUT (eARC)
  • Yamaha soundbar: HDMI OUT (ARC)

Related: How to fix that annoying audio delay on your soundbar

Ultimately, connecting a soundbar to a TV is easy once you pick HDMI ARC vs optical

Now that you know how to connect a soundbar to a TV, you should be assured that making the basic connections is quite simple. Whether your TV and soundbar support eARC HDMI, ARC HDMI, or just HDMI, largely depends on how old the devices are. For ARC and eARC connections, you can connect the soundbar to a TV with a single HDMI cable; otherwise, you’ll just need to connect an optical audio cable in addition to an HDMI cable. Regardless of where you land on HDMI ARC vs optical cables, there’s nothing too intimidating to prevent you from enjoying the enhanced audio experience that a soundbar provides.

The post How to connect a soundbar to a TV: HDMI ARC vs optical appeared first on Popular Science.

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Big tech companies are finally making devices easier to repair https://www.popsci.com/technology/right-to-repair-phone/ Tue, 12 Apr 2022 19:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=437116
parts of an electronic device laid out flat
Right to Repair policies may make access to genuine parts easier. Dan-Cristian Pădureț / Unsplash

Google, Samsung, Apple and others are introducing new programs aimed at making electronics last longer.

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parts of an electronic device laid out flat
Right to Repair policies may make access to genuine parts easier. Dan-Cristian Pădureț / Unsplash

Repairing an old cell phone yourself is about to get a lot simpler. Over the past few months, Samsung, Google, and Apple have announced programs that allow regular consumers and independent repair shops to buy official parts, so they can more easily repair devices. Samsung and Google have partnered with repair specialists iFixit, while Apple’s plans to open an online repair shop are still unconfirmed

This has been a long time coming. Right to Repair advocates, like the Electronic Frontier Foundation (EFF) and iFixit, have been fighting for greater access to official parts for years, and they’ve finally found success with the Biden administration. An executive order signed last July called on the FTC to hold smartphone manufacturers accountable for “making repairs more costly and time-consuming, such as by restricting the distribution of parts, diagnostics, and repair tools.” Similarly, the Copyright Office expanded exemptions for fixing devices last October, essentially making it legal to bypass software locks to repair certain consumer devices.

According to an interview by The Verge with iFixit CEO Kyle Wiens, though, the biggest pressure came from a French law that forced companies to post a repairability score right next to the price. “There have been extensive studies done on the scorecard and it’s working,” Wiens told The Verge. “It’s driving behavior, it’s shifting consumer buying patterns.” And it’s this behavior shift that pushed Samsung, Google, and even Apple to offer parts to independent repair shops and individual customers.

In addition to the consumer protection side of things, there’s also the environmental issue with unrepairable (or un-repaired) devices. More than 48 million tons of e-waste are produced each year, with 6.9 million tons of it from the US alone. As iFixit explains, that is a huge amount of toxic chemicals being dumped in landfill, or allowed to leach into drinking water or otherwise harm ecosystems. People being free and able to fix old devices allows these electronics to last longer and be replaced less often, which can in turn stem some of this flow of e-waste.

[Related: How a new executive order might help your phone last longer]

Be warned, though. Just because repairing your phone is going to be more possible, it doesn’t mean it will be easy. As Google makes it clear in the press release, it intends for the parts to go to “independent repair professionals and skilled consumers with the relevant technical experience.” As a tech writer, I’ve over-confidently tried my hand at more than my fair share of gadget repairs over the past few years, assuming that I do indeed have the relevant technical experience. But even relatively simple tasks—like replacing the thermal paste on a laptop CPU—can easily go wrong if you accidentally put too much paste on, end up with it going everywhere, and have to live with your computer smelling like burning rubber for the next six weeks. 

Don’t get me wrong, being able to buy genuine parts at a reasonable price from a legitimate store is a huge deal, and will go a long way towards prolonging the lifespan of older devices. But if you’ve sprung for insurance—or your phone is still covered by warranty—then getting it fixed through the official channels will still be the most sensible option for most people. These parts aren’t intended to replace existing consumer protections, but rather offer longer term options for when devices outlast their official lifespan, or are bounced a bit hard off the pavement. 

Also, the bigger deal for many people, I suspect, is that iFixit will be able to sell official parts for more devices to independent repair shops. This will allow them to offer repairs—or more affordable repairs—of older smartphones.

However it all shakes out, though, this broad push towards more reparable devices is huge, and a nice return to the earlier days of computing. I look forward to keeping my current iPhone XS Max going for another few years—even if it’s only as a backup device. 

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Keep your workshop tidy with this DIY dust collector https://www.popsci.com/diy/diy-shop-vac-dust-collector/ Sat, 09 Apr 2022 15:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=436560
A DIY shop vac-mounted dust collector in a basement workshop.
It might look like a mess of hoses and pipes, but it's a mean dust-catching machine. Jean Levasseur

Spend less time tripping and more time woodworking.

The post Keep your workshop tidy with this DIY dust collector appeared first on Popular Science.

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A DIY shop vac-mounted dust collector in a basement workshop.
It might look like a mess of hoses and pipes, but it's a mean dust-catching machine. Jean Levasseur

If you’re interested in woodworking, good dust collection is a must-have. Breathing wood dust can cause health problems including respiratory issues and cancer, according to the US Occupational Safety and Health Administration. Most homeowners and woodworking hobbyists, however, have neither the space nor the budget for a full-blown dust collection system. Instead, many of us rely on a regular old shop vac. On its own, a shop vacuum does a decent job, but it’s not really designed for dust collection. 

One way to improve a shop vac’s ability to capture sawdust is with a dust separator. This is basically a 5-gallon bucket with a low profile or cyclone style separator lid. The shop vac’s hose connects to the lid, and then a second hose runs from the collector bucket out to any tool with a dust port. Heavier dust particles fall into the bucket, while the super-fine dust is pulled into the shop vac filter. This reduces the strain on the filter, allowing it to do a better job removing airborne particulates with less frequent cleaning. 

Unfortunately, this setup can lead to an absolute mess of hoses around the shop. After a couple of years of tripping, I decided to build a stand to control and contain the entire system. My solution is built from PVC pipe and plywood, and uses the wheels of my shop vac for mobility. It holds all of my vacuum attachments, and gives me a place to coil my spare hose. Finally, I can easily remove and empty the 5-gallon bucket when it’s full. 

If your vacuum doesn’t have wheels, also called casters, with accessory storage holes on top of them, you’ll need to build a different kind of stand.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a face mask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

  • Time: 1 to 2 hours
  • Material cost: $50 to $100
  • Difficulty: Easy

Tools

Materials 

Adjust sizes as needed to fit your shop vac:

Instructions

1. Cut the PVC pipe to length. Add the height of the vacuum to the height of the lip of the bucket you’re using as your dust canister. Then add approximately 8 inches to put some space between the bottom of the bucket and the top of the vacuum so you can get the top of the shop vac off without removing the bucket. For my setup, the pipes needed to be about 36 inches long. These will be the stands that hold the plywood shelf your dust collector rests in

Cut the pipe with a reciprocating saw if you have one, or a handsaw if you don’t. After cutting the long stands, cut four more shorter pieces, each about 6 inches long. These are what the shelf will actually slide onto in order to sit on the couplers atop the long pipes.

[Related: Save space by building this simple cutting board rack inside any door]

File the cut ends of the plastic clean of frays and burrs so you can easily slide the pipe into the couplers later.

2. Fit the rubber reducing couplers into the wheel slots. My shop vac casters have accessory storage holes on top of them to hold the hose extensions and nozzles. The 2-inch rubber reducers fit perfectly into these holes. My recommendation when shopping for reducers is to bring one of the vacuum extension pieces with you to the store, and test-fit the reducer over that. 

  • Pro tip: If you can find PVC reducers that are deep enough to sit flat in your accessory holders, get those because they’re cheaper and more stable than rubber. I checked three hardware stores in my area, but all the PVC reducers they had were too shallow, so I bought rubber ones. These are secure, but they’re more expensive and allow a bit more movement in the stand.

3. Insert the PVC stands into the reducers. The long PVC pipes should slide into the top of the reducers. Push them all the way down against the top of the casters for stability. Then tighten down the stainless steel clamps with a flathead screwdriver. The pipes will lean a bit, but they should stay upright. 

4. Measure the plywood bucket holder. To find the overall size of the board, measure the distance between all of the pipes from the outside edges. Enlisting a second person to keep the pipes standing straight will make this easier—I did it alone, and it was very annoying. Add 2 inches to that length so you have a 1-inch overhang outside the pipes. In my case, the pipes on each side were 17 inches apart, so my plywood needed to be 19 by 19 inches. 

  • Pro tip: Don’t assume the vacuum wheelbase is square, though it probably is. Also, don’t measure the wheelbase itself—measure at the tops of the pipes. The body of my vacuum pushes the stands out slightly, so they are half an inch or so wider than the actual wheelbase. 

5. Cut the plywood to size with a circular saw. None of these edges need to be perfectly square, so freehanding the cut is fine, though you can use a straightedge if you’re more comfortable. 

6. Measure and cut out the PVC pipe holes. The plywood needs four holes, one in each corner, to hold the pipe stands. With the 1-inch plywood overhang, the center of each pipe’s hole will be 1⅞ inches from the corner of the board, and then 1⅞ inches into the board perpendicular to that edge. If you chose a different size pipe or overhang, add the length of the overhang to the radius of the pipe to find the center of the hole. 

The pipes should fit snugly into the holes so that the plywood will rest on the coupler you’ll add in Step 7. In my case, a 2-inch Forstner bit cut the perfect hole—just large enough for the pipe to easily slip in and out of, but not wider than the coupler. If you don’t have a Forstner bit, you can use a jigsaw.

7. Measure and cut the hole for the 5-gallon bucket. Center the bucket on the plywood, then trace the bottom with a pencil. If your bucket is tapered, as many are, you’ll need to widen this circle to accommodate that taper. In my case, I added about a quarter of an inch to the radius so the solid lip of the bucket would rest on the plywood. This added measurement will depend on your particular bucket. 

It’s better to make the hole too small at first than too big. 

Drill a small hole in the middle of that circle. I used the same 2-inch Forstner bit that I drilled the pipe holes with because it was already in the drill. Insert the blade of your jigsaw into this hole and cut out the large circle. When you’re done, the bucket should slide right in and rest on its lip. If the fit is too tight, use the jigsaw to widen and adjust the circle as needed.

The plywood top of a DIY shop vac dust separator, showing the pipe holes in each corner and a jigsaw in the process of cutting out the center bucket hole.
When the holes are done, you’ll be ready to put everything together. Jean Levasseur

8. Assemble the full stand. Slide the couplers onto the top of the long PVC pipes already attached to your vacuum. Push them down firmly so the pipes seat all the way into the fixture. Then insert the four shorter pipes you cut in Step 1 into the tops of the couplers, seating them firmly. 

You can use PVC pipe glue to permanently connect these fixtures, but I didn’t. I want the flexibility to change and adjust the stand as necessary without having to buy all new components. And the friction fit has been strong enough so far. 

Slide the plywood over the top of the four pipes to rest on the couplers. Then put the bucket into the center hole. Attach the hoses to your dust collector per your system’s appropriate configuration. I keep all the hose extensions and attachments on the four extruding pieces of PVC pipe for storage, since those components can no longer fit onto the wheel slots. I also wrap my extra hoses around those extensions.

9. Add any additional accessories you need. You can customize this stand to suit your needs. For example, you can add hooks to coil hoses or even boxes to hold additional accessories. I added a 2-inch screw to the back of the plywood to coil the power cord for easier access, as well as a hook to the front of the stand to hold the remote outlet switch for my shop vac—an accessory I recommend everyone buy for their system. Once you get a handle on your dust problem, you won’t want to reach around the stand to turn the vacuum on and off anyway.

The post Keep your workshop tidy with this DIY dust collector appeared first on Popular Science.

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How to travel with film cameras today https://www.popsci.com/diy/film-cameras-flying-travel/ Fri, 08 Apr 2022 22:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=436506
A photo of an old film camera on top of a pile of photographs.
Flying with an analog film camera poses its own set of challenges. Deposit Photos

Here's what to consider when planning and executing your trip with your film cameras, lenses, and equipment.

The post How to travel with film cameras today appeared first on Popular Science.

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A photo of an old film camera on top of a pile of photographs.
Flying with an analog film camera poses its own set of challenges. Deposit Photos

We may earn revenue from the products available on this page and participate in affiliate programs. Learn more ›

This article was originally featured on Popular Photography.

There was a time when traveling with film cameras was a no-brainer: Nearly all cameras used film, and you’d find all the support you needed almost anywhere you went. Today, the rise of digital photography and changes in transportation security make traveling with film gear more of a challenge.

In this three-part series, we’ll cover the specifics of traveling with film by air as well as by land and sea. For this first part, we’ll discuss some general guidelines, including cautions about traveling with film and what you should bring on your trip.

[Related: How photographers fly without ruining their film]

The perils of traveling with film

We love film and hate to speak ill of it, but the truth is that shooting travel photography on analog is not a sure thing. Unseen camera faults and mistakes in technique and/or handling can cause problems with your photographs, and unlike digital, you may not realize your photos didn’t come out until you get home. There’s also the potential for damage or mistakes in processing.

Does this mean you should avoid film photography for travel? Absolutely not! Film gives its own special look to travel photos and we wouldn’t miss that for the world. However, there’s nothing wrong with doing what our film-only forbears couldn’t, which is to use modern technology as a backup. If you’re facing that once-in-a-lifetime photo opportunity, there’s nothing wrong with snapping an extra shot on your phone or a digital camera, just in case.

Traveling with film: What film to bring

Back in the day, no matter where you were headed, you could almost always find film—and often good-quality processing—at your destination. Not so today, so modern film photographers will most likely be carrying both new and exposed-but-unprocessed rolls. This is particularly tricky with regards to air travel, which we cover in Part 2 of this series.

[Related: How photographers fly without ruining their film]

If you’re traveling with film, you’ll want to take plenty with you; running out of film on a trip is never fun. What kind of film should you bring? We prefer to stick to film stocks we know and like. We’ve experimented with unfamiliar emulsions while traveling, only to get home and find that new-to-us film didn’t give us the look we were looking for. Our recommendation is to experiment at home and travel with film you know.

It’s a good idea to check the weather conditions at your destination to help determine what speed film you’ll need. If it’s bright and sunny, we’ll pack mostly ISO 100 film with a couple of rolls of ISO 400 in case the clouds roll in. If we’re expecting inclement weather, we up the proportion of faster film. For indoor photography, many filmies pack some ultra-high-speed film (such as Delta 3200 or T-Max 3200) or a flash. Another option is to shoot ISO 400 or 800 film at 1600 and push-process it. (Be sure to note which rolls need pushing!)

It’s worth noting, though, higher-speed films are more susceptible to the negative effects of airport X-rays. And if you’re bringing along film faster than ISO 400, we recommend carrying it on board (this goes for all film, actually) and requesting a “hand inspection” at security. We’ll cover this more in part 2.

Alternatives to bringing your own film

If you’re traveling to a large city, you may be able to buy film locally. Do a little Googling and be sure to call or email ahead to make sure local stores have adequate stock of your film(s) of choice. If you regularly mail-order film, you may be able to get your mail-order house to ship film to your lodgings; be sure to call ahead to your hotel to make sure they can receive packages for guests. Alternatively, you can mail film ahead to your digs. This method isn’t foolproof—packages do get lost or delayed—so it’s best to bring a couple of rolls with you, just in case.

If you use a mail-order lab for processing, consider mailing your exposed film to the lab directly from your trip. That’ll save some bulk in your luggage (and an X-ray inspection if you are flying).

The case for bringing more than one camera

Digital cameras offer variable ISO settings and can switch seamlessly between color and B&W, but film cameras can’t do that, and mid-roll film changes are time-consuming (and difficult or impossible on some auto-wind cameras). That’s the reason why, back in the film days, avid photographers frequently traveled with a second camera (or third). One camera might be loaded with color film, the other with B&W, or one with slow film and one with higher-speed film. If you travel with a second camera, we recommend keeping that extra camera unloaded until you know what you need it for, to provide you with extra flexibility.

Traveling with 35mm point-and-shoot cameras

If you’re a compact point-and-shoot photographer, you’re in great shape—after all, P&S compacts were designed with travel photography in mind. A compact camera with a zoom lens will give you the most flexibility, but the 35mm lens fitted to many fixed-focal-length cameras works nicely for travel snapshots.

Most point-and-shoot cameras are made to withstand a little foul weather, but if you are concerned about getting seriously rained on (some vacation!), consider a “weather-resistant” camera like the Pentax IQ Zoom 90 WR. There are other fully-waterproof compacts like the Canon Sure Shot A-1, but if underwater film photography is on your agenda, consider a one-time disposable camera like the Kodak Water & Sport or Fujifilm’s Quicksnap Waterproof—that way you don’t have to worry about your hard-to-replace camera getting damaged.

Traveling with 35mm SLRs

SLRs give you more creative control over your photos, but they do add bulk, which can slow you down while traveling. SLRs come in all shapes and sizes, and we recommend smaller ones for smoother travel. Older manual-wind cameras (particularly the Olympus OM-series and Pentax M-series) and later-model plastic-bodied SLRs (like those from Minolta and Canon) are among the lightest and easiest to travel with. Pro-level cameras like the Nikon F4 are bulky and heavy.

But isn’t pro-level gear best for travel? Not necessarily: A once-in-a-lifetime trip might seem to warrant your best film equipment, but there’s an argument to be made for leaving your nicer cameras home. Remember, with film—and unlike digital—it’s not the camera that determines image quality, but rather the lenses and the film stock. For travel, consider taking older bodies that you don’t mind getting knocked around a bit, and which will be easier (and cheaper) to replace if they get lost or stolen.

If you’re bringing a second camera body, it should be one that is lens-compatible with your primary body so there’s no need to bring a second set of lenses. Your backup camera need not be anything fancy or expensive. A $20 Nikon N65 makes a great backup for your Nikon F5 or N90s and takes up little extra space in your camera bag.

What lenses should you bring? If you’re using an autofocus SLR, a pair of zoom lenses in the 24-70mm and 70-200mm range should meet most of your needs. For manual-focus SLRs, the standard wide/normal/tele “prime trifecta”—28mm, 50mm, and 135mm —will suit you well. Again, consider the value of your equipment and the difficulty of replacing it in the event of breakage or theft. We’d much rather risk a $25 Vivitar lens than a $250 Nikon lens. Consider fitting a UV filter to all of your lenses to protect them from damage.

Traveling with other types of film cameras

35mm rangefinder cameras give you the portability of a compact, and most offer the creative control of an SLR, so they’re great travel companions. The only thing that gives us pause is their value: Some of us find it hard to relax and enjoy our trip while worried about damaging or losing our $5,000 Leica.

Point-and-shooters might want to consider a bridge camera, which offers the creative control of an SLR in a more compact package. Their wide-range zoom lenses make them great for travel, and they offer a variety of automatic, semi-automatic, and manual modes.

Instant cameras are great for snapshots, but not so great for landscape or architecture photos—and with the high cost of film, instant travel photography can get very expensive very quickly.

What about medium- and large-format gear? A small TLR like the Yashicamat or Mamiya 645 takes up only a little more space than a bulky 35mm rig, but bigger cameras like the Mamiya RB67 and Pentax 67 can really weigh you down, as can large-format cameras, which generally require a tripod. We tend to reserve the bigger gear for trips by car. If you do take large and expensive gear via commercial travel, be sure to keep it with you and avoid checking it at all costs.

What else should you bring with you?

If you have extra space in your film kit, here are a few items you should consider bringing, in order of importance:

  • Extra batteries. Manual-wind cameras use button batteries that last for years; one extra set should suffice. For auto-wind cameras with a higher power appetite, it’s best to know before you go how many rolls a set of batteries will get through, and bring lots of extras.
  • Extra lens-cleaning cloths. Travel is filthy business!
  • Filters. It’s a good idea to have a good-quality UV filter on all your film-camera lenses to protect from damage. A circular polarizer can be very handy for reflective surfaces (cars, windows, water). If you’re shooting B&W film, consider a yellow or red filter to bring more contrast and texture to the skies. 
  • Film Changing Bag. If you have the space, a dark bag is a handy thing to carry. We’ve had old cameras jam while traveling, and a dark bag provides a safe place to open the camera and retrieve your film.

One last tip: Don’t forget to vacation!

We love traveling with film gear because it presents so many opportunities to take great photos, but we try to avoid seeing our entire vacation through a camera lens. Always be on the lookout for good photo opportunities, but make sure you take time to enjoy and experience the sights with your own senses.

The post How to travel with film cameras today appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

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Turn your old Wii into the ultimate retro gaming system https://www.popsci.com/diy/play-retro-games-wii/ Sat, 02 Apr 2022 19:20:29 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=435285
A man sitting in a dark room, his face illuminated only by the blue glow of a cathode-ray TV as he plays a retro Nintendo game.
Oh, the nostalgia. Anurag Sharma / Pexels

Find a new use for your now-classic Nintendo console.

The post Turn your old Wii into the ultimate retro gaming system appeared first on Popular Science.

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A man sitting in a dark room, his face illuminated only by the blue glow of a cathode-ray TV as he plays a retro Nintendo game.
Oh, the nostalgia. Anurag Sharma / Pexels

We may earn revenue from the products available on this page and participate in affiliate programs. Learn more ›

Nintendo recently announced they will shut down the Wii U eShop and, with it, the last place fans could legally purchase retro games on any Nintendo system. Sure, you can subscribe to Nintendo Online for access to a few dozen older games, but those could disappear at any moment. 

It’s natural, then, that some Nintendo fans are taking matters into their own hands, by, say, setting up a Raspberry Pi to run emulators. There’s a simpler option, though: the Nintendo Wii.

The Wii is readily available, compatible with thousands of games, and can quickly be hacked to run emulators for the NES, SNES, and even the Nintendo 64. It just might be the best way to play retro Nintendo titles, as long as you know how to get emulators working. 

How to play Wii and GameCube games without emulators

But before we get into that, let’s talk about the easiest way to play retro titles on the Wii. The Wii can, of course, launch Wii games, which are solidly in the “classic” category at this point. As of 2022, the console is 16 years old—the same age the Super Nintendo was when the Wii launched in 2006. Time sure flies.

Almost every Wii can also play GameCube games, provided you have a GameCube controller and a memory card. This gives you access to classic games such as Super Mario Sunshine, Luigi’s Mansion, and The Legend of Zelda: The Wind Waker. 

This isn’t emulation, and you don’t need mods: there’s basically an entire GameCube built into the Wii, meaning it can play these games natively. Now, there are advantages to playing Wii and GameCube games using an emulator on a powerful modern PC. You can upscale the graphics, for example, and save your game without using in-game save points. But there’s something satisfying about playing games on the hardware they were designed for, and with the Wii you can do that for the complete catalog of the two classic 2000s systems. 

Just note that Wii U can’t play GameCube games from a disk. Neither can the Wii Mini or Wii Family Edition, which don’t have plugs for GameCube controllers. The quickest way to tell if your Wii can load GameCube games is to look for the controller plugs on the top of the device—they’re hidden under a flap. 

Installing emulators is quick and (relatively) painless

OK, we’ve traveled back to 2001, when the GameCube was released, but we can go back further. Back in the day, Wii owners could buy Virtual Console games, which meant you could purchase games originally released for the NES, SNES, Sega Genesis, and N64 systems. 

Those games aren’t for sale anymore, but it’s pretty easy to get them thanks to the still-active Wii homebrew scene. This is a community of people who have gotten all kinds of software working on the Wii, including emulators for just about any system you can think of. Emulators, of course, only work if you have digital copies of the games (ROMs), and those are legally questionable if you don’t own the original game. Keep that in mind. And please note that these steps are for the Wii, not the Wii U. The best guide for running homebrew on the Wii U is at wiiuhacks.guide.

[Related: How to run Android apps and games on your computer]

With your Wii at the ready, the easiest way to get started is by heading to Wii.guide and clicking the Start Here link at the top. That is the best guide on the internet at this point, and (crucially) is kept up to date. But here’s a quick overview of the LetterBomb hack, which is by far the most common way to set up homebrew and install an emulator on your Wii:

  • Head to please.hackmii.com on your computer and enter the MAC address for your Wii, which you can find by opening the Wii settings under Internet > Console Information. You’ll end up with a ZIP file.
  • Extract the ZIP file onto an SD card.
  • Put that SD card in your Wii. Open the Wii message board by clicking the envelope in the bottom-right corner. You’ll see an envelope with a bomb icon. Click that envelope. Note that if the date on your Wii is wrong, you might have trouble finding the bomb. If that happens, fix the date on your Wii in the settings.
  • Follow the on-screen instructions to install the Homebrew Channel and BootMii.

It’s a good idea to back up your Wii at this point—Wii.guide has excellent instructions. Once that’s done, you can install some emulators. Again, here’s a quick overview: 

  • Load the Homebrew Channel, just to make sure it’s working. Take the SD card out of your Wii and plug it into your computer.
  • Download the Homebrew Browser to your computer. Extract the ZIP and copy the folder homebrew_browser to the /apps directory on your SD card, then unmount it.
  • Plug the SD card into your Wii and load the Homebrew Channel. You should see the Homebrew Browser, which you can use to install software.

You now have everything you need to grab some emulators. Here’s a few you’ll want to pick up from the Homebrew Channel:

  • FCE Ultra GX for NES
  • SNES 9x GX for SNES
  • VBA GX for Game Boy, Game Boy Color, and Game Boy Advance
  • Genesis Plus GX for Sega Genesis, Sega CD, Sega Master System, and Sega Game Gear
  • Not64 for N64
  • DOSbox for old PC games (but make sure you plug in a USB keyboard or you won’t get far)

That’s a lot of retro gaming capability built into a system you probably forgot about!

There are plenty of controllers available

A nice thing about the Wii is that all kinds of controllers work with it, meaning you’ve got lots of options for playing classic games. Here’s a quick summary: 

  • The Wii Classic Controller works well for most games you can emulate and is fairly easy to find on the used market.
  • The WiiMote works quite well for NES games—just hold it sideways.
  • GameCube controllers work with most emulators and are a great layout for the N64 in particular.
  • The controllers that came with the NES and SNES Classic work on the Wii—just plug them into a WiiMote.

With all these options, you should have a controller that works for just about any game you can load, and most emulators make it easy to customize the button mapping. 

The Wii easily connects to CRT TVs

Old games just look better on old cathode-ray tube (CRT) televisions, because they’re designed with those displays in mind. The Wii uses an RGB connection that is easy to plug into those TVs. It also supports the 4:3 aspect ratio, meaning you don’t need a widescreen TV to play games. This is crucial if you’re looking to fully re-create the retro experience. 

Emulators are only the beginning

You can do a lot more with the Wii if you’re willing to learn. There’s WiiMC, which is a media player that can also play DVDs. There’s a variety of homebrew games. Enthusiasts have built replacements for the defunct online services. And more advanced users can even set up their Wii to play backed-up Wii and Gamecube games from an external hard drive.

It’s remarkable how useful the Wii is all these years later, and I hope this guide gives you a starting point. If you have an old Wii, or have access to one, dig it up. It’s got a lot of potential.

Correction, April 13, 2022: A previous version of this story said the Wii Mini does not have a disk drive and that many of the same steps listed here could be applied to the Wii U. The Wii Mini does have a disk drive and you will need to use a different process to install emulators on a Wii U.

The post Turn your old Wii into the ultimate retro gaming system appeared first on Popular Science.

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The right way to clean fresh fish https://www.popsci.com/diy/how-to-clean-fresh-fish/ Tue, 29 Mar 2022 15:30:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=434006
Raw fresh dorado fish with fruits and vegetables to illustrate an article about cleaning fish.
Learn the right fish cleaning techniques from the experts. Deposit Photos

Trim, skim, scale, gut, and fillet with grace.

The post The right way to clean fresh fish appeared first on Popular Science.

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Raw fresh dorado fish with fruits and vegetables to illustrate an article about cleaning fish.
Learn the right fish cleaning techniques from the experts. Deposit Photos

This post was originally featured on Saveur.

Thanks to the marvels of modern refrigeration and shipping, buying seafood has never been easier. Fillets, half sides, and steaks are readily available from most grocery store fishmongers these days. But the pleasure of nose-to-tail dining, and with it, a better understanding of what’s on our plates is unbeatable—not to mention more sustainable. Maybe you like to catch your own. Or maybe you like to pick up an extra-fresh catch from the docks. Either way, knowing how to clean a whole fish is a useful skill for any home cook. 

Last month, while the SAVEUR team was in South Carolina for the Charleston Wine & Food Festival, I met up with James London, chef-owner of Chubby Fish, a dinner-only neighborhood restaurant spotlighting exclusively local seafood. London is an avid fisherman who is committed to serving responsibly caught fish. He’s also a generous teacher, and he invited me into his kitchen to demonstrate how he likes to fabricate the gorgeous whole fish he brings in from his purveyors. The species he was working with that morning was a grunt—a small, round, by-catch species identified by its bright orange mouth. The method he demonstrated will work well for round fresh- or saltwater fish of any size, including cod and salmon. Ready to take matters into your own hands? Here’s London’s step-by-step tutorial on how to clean a fish.

Set up over the sink and trim the fins

Cut down on clean-up by positioning a large wire rack directly over the sink; this will be your work surface for the first half of the process. (You can also work right in the sink if you don’t have a wire rack.), Place your fish on the rack, then use sharp kitchen shears to clip away all of the fins. Most round fish (think red snapper and branzino) have five fins (flatfish, like flounder and sole, have different anatomy.) The dorsal fins are located on the top of the fish, sometimes in two parts, or otherwise in one long fin. The anal fin is at the bottom, closer to the tail. Two pectoral fins can be found on either side, just behind the head; the pelvic fins are beneath the fish’s chin. 

Scale the fish

An inexpensive scaler makes quick work of removing the fish’s tough outer layer. To begin, turn on a slow stream of cold running water; scaling under the stream directly into the sink prevents scales from flying everywhere as you work. They’ll get caught in the drain and you can discard them when you’re done. Then, hold the scaler in your dominant hand while you hold the fish with your non-dominant hand. Using gentle but firm pressure, run the textured side of the scaler against the side of the fish in long strokes, from tail to head. “The places where the scales are most difficult to remove are by the chin and at the base of the tail on the bottom,” London explains, so make sure to concentrate on those spots. Run your hands in both directions over the fish to feel for any remaining scales, then give it a good rinse.

Remove the guts

Starting at the bottom of the fish, near the tail, slide your shears into the belly and snip open from the tail to the chin. Tuck your fingers into the opening and pull out and discard the contents. Give the fish a good rinse inside and out to wash away any blood. Next, pry open the gills behind the eyes, and using your finger, pull out the u-shaped cartilage; this will remove any guts that remain in the fish. Rinse once more, and with the water running into the cavity, run your finger along the inside spine, washing away the bloodline.

Set up your fillet station

Pat the fish dry with paper towels, then transfer to a cutting board. A clean, dry work surface is mportant, not only for sanitation purposes, but also for safety—excess moisture can lead to slipping and sliding as you cut.

Kitchen shears and a sharp fillet knife are essential for the following steps. London loves the inexpensive Dexter knife, which can be used for breaking down a chicken or even deboning a leg of lamb. This model is easy to find, holds a sharp edge, and has a flexible blade. “All the professionals use it,” he tells me, “and you can just sharpen it on a steel,” making the Dexter a perfect choice for the home cook. London also loves a traditional Japanese-style blade called a deba, which is specifically designed for filleting; its one-sided bevel shaves close to the bones, resulting in an exceptionally clean cut.

Score the skin

Use the fingertips of your non-dominant hand to find the soft spot on top of the fish’s head, then, insert the tip of the knife gently. Hold the fish firmly in place, then run the tip of the knife down the spine, scoring the skin from the base of the head all the way down to the tail.

Slice away the fillet

Following the initial cut and using no more than an inch of the blade, make long strokes with your knife to gradually slice away the fillet, while your other hand lifts the fillet as you go. (By lifting the fillet, you expose the bones, so you can see and follow the natural shape of the fish.) Try to keep your knife as close to the bones as possible as you work your way down towards the belly to keep as much of the flesh intact as possible. If you can hear the knife click against the bones as you slice, it means you’re on the right track; if not, angle the knife downwards to bring the edge closer to the ribs.

Once you make it down the belly, the fillet should only still be attached at the tail and the head ends. Place the palm of your hand over the fish, holding the fillet in place, then slide the knife between the fillet and the ribs. Carefully glide the middle of the blade through to detach the meat at both the front and back of the fish, then set the fillet aside.

Remove the second fillet

Flip the fish over so the head is now pointed towards your non-dominant hand. Use the tip of the knife to cut behind the fins, then, starting at the belly, cut along the collar bone in a u-shape, towards both the spine and the soft spot of the head. Next, starting from the tail this time, use the tip of your knife to score the skin along the spine once again until you reach the head. Repeat the same long shallow strokes as before to slice the second fillet away from the ribs. “The fish will tell me where to go,” London explains, “it tells me if I’m getting in too far and where I need to steer my knife along the bones.” At this stage, the fillet will only be attached at the tail; while holding the fillet down with your palm, use the middle of the blade to cut away that piece. Now you will have two fillets and the carcass of the fish. Reserve the fillets to cook however you like; the bones can be reserved for fish fumet or stock which can be used in soups or paella, or as a poaching liquid.

Skin the fish

At this stage, you can cook your fillets as-is. However, if you want to remove the skin, keep going. Position one of the fillets skin-side-down, with the tail end pointing toward your non-dominant hand. Grip the knife in your dominant hand and make a shallow cut into the flesh just where it meets the skin. Grab the piece of released skin and, with your knife under the meat and parallel to the cutting board, wiggle the skin and knife as you work your way down the fillet, gently separating it from the skin. You can save the skin along with the bones for stock, or discard. 

At this point, you can prepare the fllets right away, or otherwise wrap them in damp paper towels and transfer to the fridge for up to a day.

The post The right way to clean fresh fish appeared first on Popular Science.

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Where to place a subwoofer with a soundbar to level up your TV setup https://www.popsci.com/diy/soundbar-subwoofer-placement/ Mon, 28 Mar 2022 18:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=433955
Subwoofer and soundbar sonos
Get your soundbar and subwoofer correctly positioned for the best sound. David Nield

When it comes to where to place a subwoofer with a soundbar, it's all about location, location, location.

The post Where to place a subwoofer with a soundbar to level up your TV setup appeared first on Popular Science.

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Subwoofer and soundbar sonos
Get your soundbar and subwoofer correctly positioned for the best sound. David Nield

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For the ultimate home theater audio quality, you can connect both a soundbar and a subwoofer to your television. High-standard gadgets will give you a super-immersive surround sound audio experience, with plenty of bass kick to bring out the lower frequencies in music, dialog, and sound effects. But it’s not quite as simple as plug-and-play. Once you’ve decided what kit to get, and where to place your TV, the next challenge is finding where to place a subwoofer with a soundbar. Depending on the room your sound system will live in, you may have a lot of choices, but it’s important to weigh up what the best positioning is if you want to get the most from your audio experience.

We played around with the Sonos Beam soundbar ($568) and the Sonos Sub subwoofer ($749), but whatever kit you’re using, the general principles around placement are the same.

[Related: Best soundbars in 2022]

Bass frequencies are particularly sensitive to whatever else is in the room—furniture, pets, windows, walls—which is why getting your subwoofer in the right place in relation to your soundbar is so important.  

Bass sound is also less directional than higher frequencies: That’s good in that it means the way that the subwoofer is pointing isn’t crucial, but it can result in sound waves bouncing all around the room. This can lead to dead spots (where waves cancel each other out) or boomy, exaggerated sounds where the bass is layered on top of each other.

Home Theater photo
If you put your subwoofer in a corner, leave some space around it.

Manufacturers don’t usually offer much advice when it comes to equipment placement, other than to say the subwoofer should be on a floor for extra stability. It’s largely up to you to decide what works and how you’re going to get the best sound possible. But before you lay out your options, check your gadget’s instruction manual just in case there are other elements you’ll need to consider. Sonos, for example, recommends you keep its Sub, which uses strong magnets, away from equipment that’s sensitive to magnetic fields.

With that in mind, there’s no one-size-fits-all layout that everyone should stick to. The right position for your subwoofer is going to depend on factors such as the model of the subwoofer, the other equipment you’re using it with, the size of your space, and what else is in it. Some trial and error might be required to get the best sound possible from your audio setup.

In fact, there’s something called the ‘sub crawl’ that is often recommended. It involves putting the subwoofer where you normally sit, playing some audio through it, and then getting down on your hands and knees and moving around the room until you get the best sound. When you’ve found the sweet spot, you can move the subwoofer to it and put your armchair or couch back in its normal position.

Generally speaking, the more space you can afford around your subwoofer, the better. You’re clearly going to be restricted by cables and furniture—and by wanting to avoid tripping over it every time you walk past the TV—but it’s a good idea to get it as far away from walls and cabinets as you can.

Subwooffer connection
The Sonos Sub is wireless, which helps with positioning—only a power cable is needed. David Nield

Most people have their soundbar sitting in front of the TV, and putting the subwoofer centrally in front of this setup is also a common approach. This ensures the sound stays in sync because it’s all in more or less the same position. If you can, get the subwoofer around a third of the way into your room, or as close to that as possible.

Another popular position for the subwoofer is in a corner of the room, to the right or left of the television and soundbar. If you decide to go with that positioning though, leave a gap of space of at least 6 inches all around it to make sure the soundwaves have enough room to get out. Generally speaking, you should keep subwoofers out of cabinets and cramped shelf spaces, as the lack of room around them has a negative impact on the audio. 

[Related: Three options for adding surround sound to your home theater]

Whether your sub is wired or wireless will also help determine your options and which one is best for you. It’s worth experimenting with a few different configurations to see what works best for your particular space. But before you make a final decision, make sure you thoroughly test every new spot—try different audio sources, and listen to how it sounds when you’re standing or sitting in different parts of the room.

Once you determine where to place a subwoofer with a soundbar, you’re only a few toggles away from enjoying the benefits of a full-range audio system. We recommend diving into the settings for your subwoofer, as there may be options for tweaking the audio coming from your soundbar and subwoofer to match the room they’re in. In the case of Sonos speakers, for example, it’s called Sonos Trueplay, and other manufacturers have similar systems.

The post Where to place a subwoofer with a soundbar to level up your TV setup appeared first on Popular Science.

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How to build the right first aid kit for you https://www.popsci.com/diy/first-aid-kit/ Mon, 28 Mar 2022 01:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=433621
First aid kit bag on the ground.
Your first aid kit should be tailored to your situation. Deposit Photos

One size does not fit all. What you actually need in your first aid kit depends on your environment.

The post How to build the right first aid kit for you appeared first on Popular Science.

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First aid kit bag on the ground.
Your first aid kit should be tailored to your situation. Deposit Photos

This story is excerpted from Task & Purpose.

First aid kits save lives, but what are the chances you have an adequate first aid kit nearby at any given time? No, those big-box store kits don’t count, especially since most of them are simplistic “boo-boo kits” designed to handle cut fingers, scraped knees, and maybe a first-degree burn or two. Few pre-made first aid kits pack the necessary supplies to deal with a truly life-threatening emergency, and those that do often suffer from significant shortcomings, such as high price tags, limited supplies, or both. In such cases, your best bet is to build your own first aid kit to create a much more capable tool than virtually anything you can snag off the shelf.

Most high-end factory-built first aid kits provide plenty of supplies capable of handling a vast array of medical emergencies, yet the chances of finding one that matches your particular needs and unique skill sets are worse than a second lieutenant actually shooting an azimuth in under five minutes. On the flip side, a custom-built first aid kit will provide you with everything you need and nothing you don’t. In shaving away excess supplies, you will find yourself saving weight and saving cash while maximizing your ability to provide efficient, effective emergency care.

You may never be Doc Roe or Renee Lemaire, but keeping a first aid kit handy could be one of the best decisions of your life. Here is how to properly build a first aid kit of your own.

Doing it right with a first aid kit

Time You’re Going to Need: About half an hour to lay the groundwork and another half hour to pack and stage the kit

Difficulty: Beginner

What is a first aid kit?

If you don’t know what a first aid kit is, then you’ve been living under a rock since before the dinosaurs went extinct. It’s time to get with the program and catch up with the rest of humanity (or at least up until 1888). All joking aside, there seems to be some actual confusion today as to what constitutes an actual first aid kit.

For starters, a first aid kit is NOT a boo-boo kit (i.e., a box of Band-Aids accompanied by a little gauze, some tape, a few alcohol wipes, and some antibiotic cream thrown in like add-ons to a value meal). As the name implies, a first aid kit provides everything an on-site first responder might need to provide emergency medical care until more advanced care providers arrive. A proper first aid kit is tailored to treat specific injuries and illnesses commonly found in certain environments, meaning that proper first aid kits will vary from place to place. This explains why a military IFAK can be so dramatically different from an OSHA-compliant kit found in businesses across America.

What you’re going to need to build a first aid kit

Everyone has different gear in their kit. Make sure you have the best tools of the trade on hand for this specific task. Don’t worry, we’ve made a list.

Tools

  • Paper
  • Pen or pencil
  • Clear mind

Components

  • Case/storage container
  • Personal protective equipment (PPE)
  • Topical treatments and cleansers
  • Wound dressings and closures
  • Trauma care equipment
  • Fasteners
  • Medications
  • Tools and support equipment
  • Specialty equipment

Before you sit down or head off into the field, it’s best if you organize your workspace or bag ahead of time. Cleanliness is next to Godliness, or so the saying goes, and we’re big believers of that mantra. Set everything up and then proceed, you’ll save yourself a headache of rummaging around your tools or having to hike all the way back out of the woods just because you forgot your knife.

The first aid kit brief

Gear up, corpsman! Here’s how to build a proper first aid kit.

Prep yourself

Before you even consider building a first aid kit of your own, get some training. Sure, you could build a first aid kit without any training, but the advantages over a premade kit from a big box store are very limited. Sure, you might eliminate a few extra Band-Aids, saving you fractions of an ounce in the process, but any extra supplies or equipment you buy will do little more than add weight to your kit.

If you have not already done so, get (at least) a basic first aid certification, then come back.

How much is too much?

Before building a first aid kit, take some time to figure out just how many kits you need. For most people, two kits will be the bare minimum: one at home and one in the car. If you have a home, two cars, an EDC backpack, and a cabin in the woods, you will need four or five kits rather than two. Every individual’s needs will vary, so determine your own needs before you start this project. If you only need one kit, don’t sweat it. If you need 10 first aid kits, then more power to you. Of course, we recommend building one kit first and then building the rest once you know what you’re doing.

Rough sketch

Once you’ve determined just how many first aid kits you want to build and which one you plan to build first, take some time to roughly sketch out your kit’s loadout. Take some time to think through emergency and logistical factors that will affect what you carry in your kit. Consider the following:

  • Habits and patterns – Write down a list of places you visit and the various activities that occur at each location, including your home. For each item on your list, write down any medical emergencies you can imagine might occur at, during, or en route to each one. As a baseline, focus on daily, weekly, monthly, and quarterly activities and locations. Ask yourself:
    • Do I spend my days staring at a computer monitor or directing traffic on a flight line?
    • Do my weekends usually consist of camping and Tough Mudders or soccer games and birthday parties?
    • Do I take a monthly road trip to visit friends or family?
    • Do I go to professional sporting events two or three times a year?
  • Medical conditions – Some people have very specific medical concerns, such as diabetes or allergic reactions. Make sure to include the appropriate medications and associated supplies in your considerations.
  • First aid skill sets and limitations – While you may not be able to treat every medical emergency, understanding your strengths and limitations will make creating your supply list that much more straightforward. To avoid buying supplies you don’t need, ask yourself:
    • What level of care can I safely (and legally) provide for others or myself?
    • Am I mentally, emotionally, and physically prepared to provide first aid?
      • What skills have I practiced that I know I can perform under stress/during an adrenaline dump?
      • What level of first aid am I prepared to provide for a loved one?
      • What first aid can I perform on myself if I only have one hand/arm available?
  • Environment – Every region of the country has its own unique hazards, and your job is to identify those hazards ahead of time. Ask yourself:
    • What is the general climate in my area?
    • What are the local weather patterns, temperature norms, and potential weather emergencies (blizzards, hurricanes, etc.)?
    • What kinds of wild animals live in my vicinity? Are they aggressive, poisonous, or potentially diseased (rabies, etc.)?
  • Kit storage – Where you plan to store your first aid kit will significantly impact what and how many supplies will fit inside your kit. A first aid kit designed to fit inside the glove box of your daily driver may lack space for bulkier items, such as reusable splints or CPR masks. On the other hand, if you plan to store your kit in the trunk or on the backside of the headrest, space may be less of a concern, potentially increasing your kit’s physical footprint and carrying capacity.
  • Potential allies (optional) – Wisdom dictates that a good first aid kit should be accessible to and usable by any individual likely to use it. As such, take stock of those with whom you regularly interact. This can range from a prepared citizen to an off-duty nurse or EMT. Even if you don’t know what a chest seal is or how to use it, having one handy on the shooting range could be a lifesaving investment in yourself or others. So, ask yourself:
    • Do my family members, friends, or coworkers have first aid training? If so, how much training?
    • Are nearby strangers likely to have first aid training? If so, what skills are they likely to have?

In light of your newfound knowledge about yourself, your environment, and your storage constraints, you have all you need to develop a rough idea of what your first aid kit will contain. Using everything you’ve learned, write a list of first aid supplies, broken down into two sections: “Critical” and “Nice to Have.” For example, supplies such as an epinephrine autoinjector (i.e., an EpiPen) or CPR mask may be non-negotiables in certain instances, while a reusable splint and extra Band-Aids may not be valuable enough to keep if storage space is limited.

If you need a list of first aid supplies to get your started, take a look at our buying guide for pre-stocked first aid kits.

Gather your gear

This is where the fun begins (if you like spending money, that is). Using your newly-created supply list, order everything on your “Critical” list and nothing else. You can fill in extra space with supplies on the “Nice to Have” list later.

If you need specific supplies or equipment but have limited space, DO NOT compromise on quality. When it comes to buying lifesaving equipment that relies on strength or durability to do its duty, such as tourniquets, avoid buying cheap knockoffs or counterfeit goods. Historically, e-commerce sites like Amazon and eBay have had a spotty record vetting vendors selling medical supplies. Instead, you should consider buying from a dedicated first-aid supplier or first-responder store. While you might save a few bucks on the front end, you or someone else could end up losing their life due to equipment failure. Instead, track down the product’s manufacturer or a reputable third-party retailer and purchase it from them…

Read the rest of the story, including an FAQ, over at Task & Purpose.

The post How to build the right first aid kit for you appeared first on Popular Science.

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How to make ‘color’ photos like it’s 1908 https://www.popsci.com/diy/lippmann-method-nick-brandreth/ Fri, 25 Mar 2022 21:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=433638
A Lippmann photograph of a deer skull.
The Lippmann method lives on. Courtesy Nick Brandreth

Artist Nick Brandreth explains the historic, alternative photographic process called the Lippmann method.

The post How to make ‘color’ photos like it’s 1908 appeared first on Popular Science.

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A Lippmann photograph of a deer skull.
The Lippmann method lives on. Courtesy Nick Brandreth

This post was originally featured on Popular Photography.

Nick Brandreth fell in love with alternative processes during an apprenticeship at the George Eastman Museum in Rochester, New York over a decade ago. When the apprenticeship ended, he was hired by the museum and has been leading workshops and researching historic photographic processes ever since. He can teach you how to make film, paper and then use those to create a print. Although he’s spent plenty of time making collodion plates, it’s the Lippmann color process that’s made the biggest impression. 

What is the Lippmann process?

Projects photo
A prism placed behind a Lippmann plate and held just right gives the image its color. Courtesy Nick Brandreth.

Lippmann plates are the only naturally occurring color photographic process. The colors that your eye detects only exist when white light is broken down into its respective colors. 

“You’re recording a standing wave—it’s when the light bounces off of something and it crosses its path half a wave out of phase,” Brandreth explains. “If you walk through a parking lot and see prismatic colors in an oil slick, there’s no color in the oil slick—what you’re seeing is the breakdown of white light that hits the surface of the oil.”

Brandreth shows off some of his exposed Lippmann plates.

Viewing a Lippmann color plate is kind of like seeing swirling colors in an oil slick, except instead of abstract shapes you’re able to capture photographic details that appear and disappear as you move the plate. If you’ve never heard of the Lippmann process you probably aren’t alone.

Invented by George Lippmann, this two-step process won the Nobel Prize in Physics in 1908, but never gained the type of commercial success that other photographic processes did. Although Lippmann’s process allowed one to create images, they couldn’t be replicated. In the modern era, it’s an extremely niche photographic process, that’s very expensive to do if you lack connections to a photographic institution like the George Eastman House. There are only a few photographers around the globe that still make Lippmann plates and Brandreth is one of them.

Here’s how he does it. 

Making the emulsion 

Brandreth creates his Lippmann plates with a panchromatic gelatin emulsion with ultra-fine grain silver— “little nanometers is how small these grains are, that’s the trick, that’s the reason it works,” he says. With most emulsions, you want the plate to ripen so that it can grow additional crystals, but in making Lippmann plates it’s important to skip this step. Brandreth’s Lippmann plates need an emulsion that is crystal clear in order to record an image. This ultra fine-grained emulsion makes the plates insensitive to light, which means that he can quickly coat the plates under subdued red light, rather than absolute darkness. 

Sealing the emulsion 

Back in the day, a special back that contained pure mercury was used to seal the emulsion—one of the reasons that it’s rare to see photographers using the process.  Brandreth uses a method called “air gap reflection” to seal his emulsions—it existed back when the process was invented but didn’t work as consistently as using pure mercury. Luckily, the dyes that allow the air gap reflection to sensitize the emulsion-covered plate to blue, green, and red light waves have improved a lot since the late 1800s.  “When the gelatin and air meet one another, the light can bend backward and go back through the emulsion at half a wave out of phase with itself,” he says. 

Making the exposure 

To record an image to a Lippmann plate you need to photograph through the back of the plate. Brandreth uses a modified Bronica camera that can hold one Lippmann plate at a time. He flipped the ground glass in the camera upside down so that he can properly focus it when shooting the plates. In peak summertime, his exposures are anywhere between three to eight minutes depending on what his aperture is set to.

When composing for a Lippmann plate, he typically likes to set up a still-life scene in bright daylight because of the long exposure times. “It’s part of why it never took off commercially as a process,” he says. “They’re extremely slow and they’re very hard to look at. If you don’t look at it at the right angle, there’s nothing there.”

Mounting the finished plate 

The final step of Brandreth’s process is to mount the plate underneath a prism. Because the emulsion is made of gelatin, it can easily react with air or moisture which will lead to the colors in the plate shifting and changing over time. He uses Canada balsam to mount his plates to the shallow prisms. This final step preserves the Lippmann plate and creates an easy way for one to view the image on the plate. “It’s essentially a mirror,” he says. “When it hits that perfect angle I can see the colors, but I can also see the highlight from my light source.” 

Learn more about the Lippmann process over on Nick Brandreth’s YouTube page. See more examples of Nick Brandreth’s work at Popular Photography.

The post How to make ‘color’ photos like it’s 1908 appeared first on Popular Science.

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Soak in style with this customizable DIY bathtub tray https://www.popsci.com/diy/build-bathtub-tray/ Fri, 25 Mar 2022 16:50:46 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=433920
A bathtub full of bubbles with a homemade wooden bath tray on it, complete with a book, a phone, a candle holder, and a wine glass holder.
It's time to soak. Jean Levasseur

This project is fully customizable to whatever you need at bath time.

The post Soak in style with this customizable DIY bathtub tray appeared first on Popular Science.

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A bathtub full of bubbles with a homemade wooden bath tray on it, complete with a book, a phone, a candle holder, and a wine glass holder.
It's time to soak. Jean Levasseur

For many people, soaking in a warm bath is a relaxing way to wind down after a tough day. Unfortunately, combining bath time with activities like reading, watching videos, or sipping a nice glass of wine isn’t always feasible. Water doesn’t mix well with paper, electronics, or wine, after all.

That’s where bath trays come in. These wooden shelves span the top of your tub to hold drinks, candles, and books, and can be as simple as a piece of plywood. But with a bit of planning, measurement, and careful cutting, you can customize a tray to hold exactly what you need for your perfect bath. This is also a great DIY gift for the bath-taker in your life, particularly with Mother’s Day and Father’s Day coming up.

Stats

  • Time: 6 to 8 hours
  • Material cost: $25 to $75
  • Difficulty: Moderate

Tools

Materials

Instructions

1. Cut the wood to length. Measure the width of your tub and use a saw to cut your chosen wood down to length. My tray hangs over the edge of the tub about 3 inches to accommodate a handle, so it is 39 inches long to fit on a 36-inch tub. If you aren’t interested in a handle, cut your board as long as the tub is wide.

2. Draw your layout on the board. Careful design now will save headaches later. Hand-sketch the approximate positions of all your desired elements in pencil right on the board. The tray described here has space for a tablet or book, two candles, a teacup or wine glass, and a phone, but you can customize yours however you please. Once you have a layout you like, precisely measure and draw everything on the board.

A piece of wood with a phone, tablet, wine glass, and candle on it, to set up a layout for a DIY bathtub tray.
Planning your layout ahead of time will save you frustration later. Jean Levasseur

Keep the structure of the tub itself in mind too. For example, if the bottom of a wine glass will hang below the tray, the slot for the stem must be far enough away from the tub’s inner wall that the glass won’t hit it. Also, make sure to center any tablet or book holder to the tub, not to the full tray if the tray will hang over the edge. Otherwise, the tablet won’t be centered when you’re sitting in the bath. 

Don’t be afraid to erase, move, and start your layout over at this point. It’s far easier to reposition things around now than after you’ve started cutting.

3. Make a plywood template. Most of the cuts in this project will be done with a router and a pattern bit. These bits have a bearing on the top that lets them ride along the edge of a template to flush-cut the wood below. To make cuts easier, faster and more accurate, make cutouts in the template for each of your design elements. I created cutouts for the 2-inch candle holes and the 4-inch teacup holes, and should have made some for the handle and phone holder—it would have made cutting them much easier and faster.

[Related: Build your own drawer organizer]

Circular cutouts, like those for cups, are simple. Using a hole saw, cut a 2-inch hole and a 4-inch hole in a scrap piece of ¾-inch plywood. My scrap was about 12 by 12 inches, which was plenty of room for both holes. I suggest keeping the holes at least 3 inches from each edge of the board, to make the next step easier.

If you want your template to include the non-circular elements, like the handle or phone holder, cut them out with a jigsaw. I made my handle 4 inches long and 1 inch wide, but I didn’t measure the phone holder—I just traced my phone.

4. Cut all of your insets and the handle. Working one at a time, lay each plywood template over its cut location and clamp it securely to your work piece. Set the depth of your pattern bit so it extends about 3/16-inch past the plywood to create your desired insets. Turn the router on, then lower it into the center of the hole, letting it slowly dig into the wood. Once the router base is resting on the plywood, carve out the inset in concentric circles until you reach the outside edge of the template. The ball bearing on top of the pattern bit will ride along the inside of the template, preventing you from cutting into the template and ensuring you carve out a perfect circle in the wood beneath.  

Repeat with all of the insets and holes you have templates for, including the handle. When cutting the handle, take multiple passes with the router, increasing your bit depth about a ¼-inch at a time. Making multiple shallow cuts allows for better control than doing one deep pass.   

  • Tip: You can freehand the cuts if you don’t have the time, materials, or tools to make a template. I freehanded the phone holder and part of the handle, and it came out fine as long as you don’t look too close.

5. Cut a hole and channel for the wine glass. Use a 1-inch Forstner bit or hole saw to cut the hole for the wine glass stem in the center of the tea cup inset. After all, how often will you be drinking tea and wine at the same time? 

Having a hole isn’t enough, however, because the wine glass base won’t fit through. Cut an approximately ½-inch-wide channel from the front of the bath tray to the hole. I used the same pattern-cutting bit from step 4, riding along a piece of plywood as a guide. This method works, but you can also use a jigsaw.

6. Cut a groove for the tablet to stand in. Customize this cut to your tablet. Mine has a thick, heavy-duty case, so the groove needed to be about ⅝ of an inch wide and ¾ of an inch deep. This lets the tablet easily slip into the groove and then lean back at a slight angle. I cut the groove long enough to hold the tablet in both portrait and landscape orientation.

If you have a thinner tablet, cut a narrower groove. Test different sizes on a piece of scrap before committing to the finished piece in order to find the ideal tilt angle for you.

When you’re ready, use a straight edge as a guide and cut out your channel. As with the handle, take multiple shallow passes until you reach the depth you want.  

7. Curve the corners on the handle side. Because my tray hangs 3 inches over the edge of the tub, I turned the sharp corners into curves with my router using a corner radius template. This is just a piece of medium-density fiberboard (MDF) with the corners pre-cut to curves with different radiuses: 1, 2, 3, and 4 inches. Clamp this template to a corner, making sure the edges are square with the edges of your work piece and the sharp corner juts out from under the curve you want. Then follow the arc of the template with your pattern bit. Perfect, uniform curves, every time.  

  • Tip: If you don’t have a corner radius template, find something with the radius you want and trace it onto your work piece. A roll of packing tape works really well for this. Then cut the corner with a jigsaw and clean up the round edge with your orbital sander or router.
A roll of packing tape lined up against the corner of a piece of wood for tracing a curved corner.
Sometimes you have to make do with what you have. Jean Levasseur

8. Round over all the edges. Swap out the pattern bit in your router for a roundover bit. Like with the tablet groove, test cuts will help you here, preferably on the same kind of wood as the tray. As you test, make two adjustments: the depth of the bit to get the type of roundover you’re looking for, and the speed of both the bit and your movement to minimize burning. The longer the bit sits in one spot, the more likely it is to burn. Burn marks can always be sanded off, but minimizing char will save time later.  

9. Sand, sand, and then sand some more. Sanding is the key to great-looking woodworking.  The very first step is to eliminate the inevitable router burns with 80-grit sandpaper.  Unfortunately, because most burns will be on the rounded edges and corners, an orbital sander won’t work well. It’s hand sanding and elbow grease for you.

One product that helps is sponge sanding blocks. These are thick sponges with various contours carved into them. Wrap the sandpaper around the sponge and sand like normal. The sponge flexes and forms to the shape of your edges, giving you better contact and reducing the time and energy required to sand. If you don’t have these, we recommend wrapping the sandpaper around a small block of smooth wood or sanding while wearing thick gloves—splinters will get ya when you least expect ‘em.

Once the burn marks are gone, use your orbital sander and 80-grit paper to remove any major scratches or divots from the flat, accessible areas of the wood. When the wood is clean and smooth, work through the remaining grits: 120, then 150, 180, and finally 220. Use the orbital sander as much as you can to save time, but hand-sand the details so you don’t ruin the edges.  

10. Glue stopper blocks to the base. To keep the tray from moving and dumping your tablet and wine into the tub, install stopper blocks on the bottom. Cut a pair of strips from the leftover project wood, each about 8 inches long and an inch or so wide. Glue these to the bottom of the board just inside where the inner inner edge of the tub walls touch the tray. Don’t fit these stoppers too tight to the walls, or it will be hard to put the tray onto the tub and slide it back and forth as needed. 

11. Clean the wood and apply finish. When the sanding is done, clean the board thoroughly. I use a three-step process. First, vacuum every inch of the project, several times. Then use a tack cloth to wipe it down. Finally, right before applying the finish, use an air compressor or a can of compressed air to blow off any remaining dust. 

Use whatever cleaning method you have available—just get all the dust off.

When the board is clean, apply your finish of choice. I used a spray-on, extra thick polyurethane. Spraying makes getting into the nooks and crannies easier and cleaner.

  • Pro tip: After your final coat has dried, rub the surface with a piece of brown paper bag. This will knock down any nubs in the polyurethane without scratching it, giving a super smooth finish.  

12. Build a book stand. This is pretty straightforward. Find, buy, or cut a piece of wood that’s approximately the same size as your tablet. Then stand it up in the tablet groove, and you’ve got an easy book holder. I used a 10-by-12-inch piece of scrap ½-inch plywood that I had from a previous project. It wasn’t quite thick enough to sit how I wanted, so I glued an ⅛-inch thick scrap of wood to the back of the board to create a better resting angle. 

  • Note: You can screw or glue the book holder into place. However, I left mine removable for easier storage.

13. (Optional) Add a book stopper. I chose not to add one of these to my tray because I didn’t like the way it looked. But if you want something to keep the base of your book in place, glue another strip of wood, maybe 8 inches long and ¾ of an inch tall, down about 2 inches in front of the channel. This creates a lip that the bottom of the book will rest against. Test out a few different positions and board sizes before you glue it down to make sure it will work for you.

Now bask in the glory of your handiwork as you bathe.

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What to consider before ripping out your lawn https://www.popsci.com/diy/considerations-before-replacing-lawn/ Fri, 25 Mar 2022 12:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=433760
A shovel dug deep into some dirt in someone's lawn or garden.
You don't necessarily have to get your hands dirty, but you should do some homework. Goumbik / Pixabay

It's best to have a plan before you do major landscaping.

The post What to consider before ripping out your lawn appeared first on Popular Science.

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A shovel dug deep into some dirt in someone's lawn or garden.
You don't necessarily have to get your hands dirty, but you should do some homework. Goumbik / Pixabay

The grass lawn is as much a part of the lore of the American suburban dream as white picket fences and apple pies. But that page may be turning—some Americans are reconsidering why they continue to put money and time into this less-than-eco-friendly part of the home.

“I think there’s definitely a trend towards more sustainable and more environmentally conscious yard solutions,” says Bythe Yost, a landscape architect and chief executive of Tilly, an online landscape design company. “But that certainly isn’t everybody, and I think the more education you can do the better, because there’s definitely room for good balance—not just having a monoculture of one grass mowed to a specific height.”

Figure out why you want to replace your lawn

Don’t start ripping out your lawn and ordering whatever looks good in the Home Depot catalog before you pinpoint your landscaping goals. Perhaps you want to help fight the climate crisis, cultivate native plants, minimize stormwater flooding your yard, or grow edible plants for home cooking. You might even have several reasons that complement one another: maybe it’s equally appealing to have both less grass to maintain and a more natural environment to live in. 

Determining your motivation will enable you to do specific research and hire the right local landscaper for the job, if you’d rather have someone else handle all the details for you. Costs will vary dramatically depending on the size of the project, the types of plantings and ground coverings you choose, and whether you hire landscaping or horticulture help.

Start by writing down what you want and sketching roughly where you would like those elements to go in the yard. Then you can start narrowing down what might incur too much time, money, or upkeep for your lifestyle.

Decide how much space you need for your activities

Another important aspect of identifying why you want to reimagine your lawn is determining what you want to use the land for. When you decide to tear up your grass, you’re naturally taking away space that might be otherwise used for sports, parties, or other home projects. Keep in mind any alternatives for those activities, or how you can make a more eco-friendly yard work with your lifestyle.

If you or anyone in your home plays sports, think about how much space you actually need to practice and whether there are suitable courts or fields nearby to use. And unless you’re throwing truly massive parties, you might not actually use most of the lawn space you have. Understanding what you truly need for your routines, hobbies, and social activities will allow you to happily coexist with a less-grassy lawn.

[Related: 5 yard games for some real summer fun]

Thinking about your outdoor needs will also help you determine what kind of ground coverings might work for you. Plain old dirt or moss might be better for a project space, while gravel could work in an outdoor dining area where grass would likely be worn down by foot traffic

Still, you might consider keeping a small patch of grass for specific uses, like children’s play or backyard exercise.

Choose what you want to plant

Be sure to research which plants actually have the best chance of survival in your climate. The US Department of Agriculture classifies plants by their hardiness, or ability to grow in certain climates, a scale that can help guide you toward plants that won’t die when winter arrives. Other databases, like the Native Plant Finder (helmed by a University of Delaware wildlife ecology and entomology professor), exist to help determine the best plants for your specific zip code.

But Kelly Norris, a gardening book author and former director of horticulture and education at the Greater Des Moines Botanical Garden, suggests seeking out groups in your neighborhood, town, or county. Native garden lovers are everywhere, so folks at a local horticultural organization, botanic garden, master gardener group, or community garden center can help you pick out the plants that will work for your goals.

Confirm you’re not breaking any rules

Once you know what you want, think about the community you’re in. If you live in a place with rules governing certain kinds of development or alterations, like a homeowner association, break out your highlighter and read over your contract or guidelines. Many homeowner associations, or HOAs, won’t be inclined to allow you to completely turn your front yard into an untamed meadow or a working farm plot, says Greg Kurzner, a licensed real estate broker in the Atlanta area and a former HOA president. But that doesn’t mean you won’t be able to find wiggle room within your contract to balance your desires and their interests.

For example, your guidelines may require some sort of landscaping by your front windows, door, or patio, but might not get into specifics. The rules also might not detail how wide that garden area needs to be—opening up the possibilities for expanding the square footage of your yard that isn’t purely grass. Your HOA might also not catalog the exact plants that you can have in your front or back yards. While you might have to stick with a certain aesthetic shared across the neighborhood, you might be able to choose local plants or mix in more-sustainable alternative ground coverings, like sedges or certain clovers.

“I would always say it’s better to ask for permission than forgiveness,” Kurzner says of dealing with HOAs. “It’s better to have a plan made as detailed as possible by a landscaper … with elevations and visuals.” He suggests taking that plan to your review committee for feedback and approval before sinking time and money into the project.

“You’ll be surprised, because a lot of times people will be initially negative about it, but then once it’s presented and it’s implemented correctly, people are really cool with it,” he added, noting that an attractive, unintrusive design could set a neighborhood trend with an approved precedent.

But even if you don’t live in an HOA community, considering your neighbors’ wants and needs ahead of time will help eliminate any arguments down the road about major changes. 

Once you know what you want to do with the space, think about how much informal notice you want to give your direct neighbors. Are you just expanding your garden and planting local species? You probably don’t need to let them in on the plans ahead of time. Are you turning huge sections of your lawn into something more creative? Your local regulations probably won’t require you to give your neighbors any notice or show them sketches of your vision, but the courtesy could go a long way in keeping unproductive or dissuasive conversations to a minimum.

Understand the challenges to growing your own food

With supply chain issues abound the past few years, you’ve probably thought growing your own fruits and vegetables would be easier than repeat grocery store trips.

But if you’re truly interested in producing food where your grass grows, be realistic about what you plant. Brie Arthur, a gardening book author, suggests writing down what you eat in a week and selecting three edible plants based on that list.

“A lot of times, people’s vegetable gardens are not only visually impractical, but they grow things that they don’t eat on a regular basis,” she explains, noting that being smart will help minimize trips to the store and wasted money in the garden. “So then they don’t fully take advantage of the harvest.”

Arthur also suggests thinking about your usual seasonal routines. Are you likely to go away on a two-week vacation and not have anyone to tend to your tomatoes? That’s a recipe for a garden disaster. Consider how often you’ll want to actively tend to any edible plants, too. If you don’t think you’ll reasonably be heading out to the garden every other day throughout the growing season, pick crops that can succeed without much intervention.

[Related: 3 tricks to make your fresh herbs last year-round]

Another question to consider is how integrated you want any edible plants to be among your non-edible ones. Having both ornamental and edible plants mixed together may look nice but, depending on how wide the garden bed is, it may be difficult to harvest and maintain your crops without disturbing the ornamentals. Sticking the edible plants in their own section away from the house might make the food garden a destination within your property, but it also will make it harder to tend to it.

And if you live in an HOA community and want to grow produce in the front yard, you can find clever ways to incorporate low-profile edible food. Arthur suggests planting herbs that will smell nice, add flavor to meals and, importantly, won’t be as visually disruptive as container gardens or raised beds. Two non-herb options might be lettuces or potatoes, given their low-to-the-ground profiles.

Being clever with your plant selection and growing spots can help you get approval from your HOA board, as Arthur found after incorporating edible plants into her front yard.

“It was really funny when the rest of the HOA board came to see what I had done, because they couldn’t distinguish the vegetables from the ornamental plants since I wasn’t growing them … in straight lines in boxed beds segregated from everything else,” she explained. “And what they saw was this beautiful, colorful, textural combination.”

Think about what may come into your yard

Plenty of homeowners see the occasional flock of early morning visitors: foxes scurrying across lawns, songbirds sitting on fence posts, a couple of bunnies skipping around.

When you increase the biodiversity of your yard by eliminating or minimizing a large swath of a single type of grass, you’ll naturally see more of the creatures you’re used to—and some you might not be used to, like more deer munching on your lilies.

And if you plant anything widely consumed by living beings, or decide to incorporate water features, you might worry about an abundance of new pests, like bugs or vermin, occupying your new garden. If you know what to expect, you can plan potential defenses.

Even so, Norris thinks you shouldn’t worry about that, as nature will do its thing and take care of any large quantities of smaller pests.

“The great thing about planting in a diverse fashion is that it supports diverse creatures, which includes natural predators,” he said. “There’s something more organic and fluid about those relationships… you often see that with pest problems, as they start to really reach the point that you start to notice them, if you start looking you’ll probably see natural predators already [taking care of the situation].”

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4 easy-to-forage plants you can harvest to make your own tea https://www.popsci.com/diy/foraging-tea-guide/ Tue, 22 Mar 2022 18:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=432931
clear glass kettle with tea
Cozyness may be growing right outside your door. Tamara Schipchinskaya / Unsplash

The best brews are all around you.

The post 4 easy-to-forage plants you can harvest to make your own tea appeared first on Popular Science.

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clear glass kettle with tea
Cozyness may be growing right outside your door. Tamara Schipchinskaya / Unsplash

There’s something delightfully fulfilling about taking a stroll down the block, or in your own backyard and kneeling not just to smell the wildflowers or appreciate a butterfly, but to pick yourself a snack or something to make a refreshing beverage.

Because no matter where you live, there’s likely an abundance of plants suitable for human consumption around you that you’ve been missing out on. From flavorful mallow to ubiquitous dandelion, a lot of this flora is considered weed but offer plenty in the nutrition and flavor department. 

But beware, because not all sites are free for plucking, and not everything that grows is safe to consume. Fortunately, there are several plants that are fairly easy to identify, and also make a tasty–and healthy–tea.

A warning before going on a foraging adventure

Before you go out foraging for a refreshing quaff, be aware of the risks. Many plants are more than just inedible—they’re poisonous, warns Philip Stark, forager, an affiliate faculty member at UC Berkeley’s Berkeley Food Institute, and founder of Berkeley Open Food Source. Other plants, like black nightshade, may feature both edible and toxic parts, while others, like acorns, are only digestible after extensive processing.

[Related: How to forage your way through your neighborhood]

This is why it’s important to take extra care and learn how to identify plants using multiple descriptions and sources before imbibing. Learning to spot a species in multiple ways and knowing its flowers, leaves, and stalks can be really helpful, as it’s getting expert guidance through a foraging course or tour. When you go on a foraging walk, make sure to bring books and any visual aid that will prevent you from confusing one plant for another. 

Then, when you think you’ve found an edible plant, stop for a second and reassess—does it actually look like the picture?

“It’s easy to get carried away with your own enthusiasm, [but] resist the temptation to make the plant look like the description,” Stark says. Sometimes, it’s just not the same plant you see in your book or foraging app, even if you want it to be. 

Finally, even if you’re certain you’ve correctly identified a plant, rule out any allergies or unwanted effects by eating or drinking just a few bites or sips the first time around. If nothing goes awry in the following eight hours, you’re in the clear.

Forage your own tea

If you’ve got your foraging guide and tools, you’re ready to head out and pick your own plants for tea. Here are a few tasty and easy-to-spot options you can usually find across the U.S. 

Dandelion

Most people are familiar with this weed with spiky green leaves and bright yellow flowers that suburban homeowners spend their summers trying to eradicate. But instead of treating your yard with chemical pesticides, consider brewing your dandelions.

Every part of this plant is edible, including roots, stems, leaves, and flowers. Pluck out as much of it as you like, rinse, and steep in near-boiling water for five minutes. You can leave it for longer if you prefer a strong flavor, or make extra and refrigerate for a refreshing iced tea.

Roasted dandelion tea is a well-known caffeine-free coffee alternative as it has a similar earthy flavor, but fresh leaves and flowers make for a lighter, sweeter profile. It may also be beneficial in helping prevent UTIs (when combined with uva ursi) and boost liver health.

Pineapple weed

This non-native species thrives all over the country in the most hostile environments and it will even sprout out of asphalt. It’s not only delicious but may help you relax before bedtime and work as a digestive aid.

Look for cone-shaped, yellow-green flower heads with no petals and small fern-like leaves. This plant smells like chamomile with a slight pineapple undertone.

To make tea, use only fresh or dried flowers (don’t use leaves, roots, or stems), and steep in hot water for five to ten minutes. As for the flavor profile, Stark describes it as a “supercharged chamomile.” It’s one of his favorite plants to forage for tea.

Pine needles

Pine needles are available year-round in most parts of the country. But note that not all pine trees produce edible needles, so until you are able to confidently tell the difference between trees, make your life easier by sticking to white pine.

You can identify these long, soft needles by how they grow off the branch: in clusters of five. Chop them up into inch-long pieces or so, and pour nearly boiling water over them. Let them steep for 10 to 15 minutes, and enjoy.

The tea tastes woodsy with some citrus notes, similar to how a pine forest or your Christmas tree smells. Bonus: it contains lots of vitamin C.

Mallow

This tea is like a science fair project in a cup. The tea made from mallow flowers is a lovely blue, but it turns pink when you change the tea’s pH by adding lemon juice or other acids. It’s a popular infusion around the world and is often used medicinally for everything from coughing to stomach pain. You can buy it in bulk at specialty retailers, but it’s more fun if you forage it yourself.

Collect the flowers to make tea—They’re pink or purple, small, five-petaled, and grow out of bushy plants that have large leaves that resemble ivy. Dry the flowers and steep them for at least five minutes in hot water. Strain, then add a squeeze of fresh lemon juice to watch the color change from blue to pink.

The tea has a mild, floral flavor and makes a refreshing iced tea, too.

Get brewing

Food (and drink) is all around us, so it’s a good idea to start your foraging journey by learning to identify one plant at a time and grow your list from there. 

“It’s surprising how few plants you need to learn to put something on the table every day,” Stark says.

But knowing to tell plant species from one another is just the start—It’s equally important to be aware of where you’re doing the collecting. Studies show that chemicals and heavy metals from soil can be present in some wild edibles, so just like you would grocery store produce, always rinse plants before chowing down. 

[Related: A beginner’s guide to finding wild edible plants that won’t kill you]

Stark also recommends avoiding plants that are growing from asphalt, or from places where there’s a lot of trash or debris, like near a demolition or construction zone. Also avoid foraging near old buildings that might have had lead paint or lead pipes, and other locations where there may be far more toxins or chemicals in the soil than normal. These include gas stations, landfills, shipyards, or railroad tracks, for example.

Otherwise, as long as you’re not breaking any local laws, feel free to forage along cement sidewalks, in parks where this practice is allowed, or along trails. When you do, enjoy knowing that, as Stark says, wherever you go in the world, there are friends waiting to feed you. 

“It feels very human to walk through our environment noticing resources,” Stark says. “It’s a very different way of experiencing the world.”

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Pest-fighting plants that could save your garden https://www.popsci.com/diy/pest-deterrent-plants/ Mon, 21 Mar 2022 18:05:29 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=432500
A field of yellow sunflowers under a bright blue sky with some white clouds.
Sunflowers are considered "trap" species, since they draw some pests' attention away from other plants. N Suma / Unsplash

Many of these natural 'pesticides' have centuries of proven success.

The post Pest-fighting plants that could save your garden appeared first on Popular Science.

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A field of yellow sunflowers under a bright blue sky with some white clouds.
Sunflowers are considered "trap" species, since they draw some pests' attention away from other plants. N Suma / Unsplash

For many home gardeners, pesticides are an easy way to keep their precious plants thriving and uneaten. But chemicals are costly. Not only did American households spend more than $3 billion on these killers in 2012 (according to the most recent available federal data), these concoctions are also an ethically grey method of eliminating pests. As more and more pesticides are applied, they affect fewer and fewer bugs. Worse, pest chemicals can accumulate in the bodies of living creatures and play a part in wiping out pollinator insects, tainting groundwater, and poisoning wildlife.

“[Pesticides’] excessive use has a deleterious effect on humans and the environment; their presence in food is particularly dangerous,” researchers at Poland’s Gdansk University of Technology wrote in a 2011 article published in Trends in Analytical Chemistry. “With their environmental stability, ability to bioaccumulate and toxicity, pesticides may place the human body at greater risk of disease and poisoning.”

No matter how you spin it, toxins are bad for your health. Using them in your yard could affect you, your family, and your loved ones. But garden pests certainly aren’t going to disappear on their own. What to do?

How to fight pests with plants

Before there were powders, dusts, and sprays, plants needed their own defenses against insects and other creatures. Some developed noxious odors, while others used poisons and unpleasant flavors to protect themselves. Ancient farmers picked up on these characteristics, discovering that “pesticide plants” grown alongside cultivars resulted in better yields and less labor-intensive growing. Companion planting was born.

You can find examples of pesticide plants stretching back thousands of years. Native Americans, for example, may have developed companion planting as early as 10,000 years ago, long before home gardening became a pastime. Although synthetic chemical-based pesticides have become common, you don’t need to follow that trend.

When you use plants to keep pests away, you’re employing a proven gardening technique backed by scientific research. Installing the right plants in your garden is fast, easy, and (the best part) extremely fun. If you’re not sure where to start, we have some suggestions for every planting zone in the US.

What to plant in the west

Western America is known for hot, dry summers with little rainfall. This means that your pesticide plants should be particularly hearty and drought-resistant.

Sunflowers (Helianthus) are a trap species for destructive pests like beetles, a great way to feed birds with nutrient-rich seeds, and an excellent method of attracting predators for pest control. Sunflowers “trap” insects by keeping their attention away from the rest of your yard, giving sensitive plants a chance to thrive.

Rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus) repels soft-bodied pests such as snails and slugs

Lavender (Lavandula) can deter both insects and mammals, including deer.

What to plant in the Midwest

With extreme temperature shifts and deep winters, the best pesticide plants for the Midwest are ones that survive deep freezes. Thanks to the many layers of planting zones in this region, there are a variety of options to choose from.

Borage (Borago officinalis) is a hardy and disease-resistant plant that repels vegetable pests like cabbage worms. Sometimes called the “starflower,” this herb attracts many types of pollinator species, and has fuzzy, edible flowers in the summer.

[Related: 7 edible flowers and how to use them]

Common chrysanthemums (Chrysanthemum × morifolium) are an ingredient in many natural pest control mixtures, releasing powerful chemicals known as pyrethrins.These flowering plants are best grown near entry points like doors and windows, where they can deter fleas, ticks, and sometimes bed bugs.

Nasturtiums (Tropaeolum) are considered to be one of the strongest pesticide plants available. They repel small insects such as squash borers and whiteflies, while attracting predatory insects like wasps.

What to plant in the north

Cooler areas of the US can be tricky growing spaces. Finding adequate pest-deterring plants is no exception. Be sure to hone in on plants that suit your gardening skills well.

Garlic (Allium sativum) works well against rodents, including mice, gophers, moles, and voles.

Catnip (Nepeta cataria) deters mosquitoes and fruit flies. Some scientists theorize it could be just as effective as DEET (without the harmful effects to people or pets).

Marigolds (Calendula officinalis) are useful against some types of plant-destroying worms called nematodes.

What to plant in the south

High humidity and tropical storms means southern growers should rely on blight-resistant plants. Humidity allows fungus and mold to spread rapidly, while frequent rainfall allows mold to infest new soil. Planting options usually include hearty perennial varieties that can be purchased at any plant store.

Daffodils (Narcissus poeticus) are a spring-blooming bulb plant with the ability to deter moles. Their ability to return year after year makes them an easy pick.

[Related: How to make cut flowers last longer]

Evening primrose (Oenothera biennis) is a native plant that acts as a trap crop for Japanese beetles. By pulling pests away from other targets in your garden, you have a better shot at growing less chewed-on produce.

Petunias (Petunia × hybrida) eliminate pests that destroy vegetable gardens, including tomato hornworms, aphids, squash bugs.

Maintaining your pest-deterring plants

Like every plant in your garden, pesticide plants require at least some maintenance to thrive. Several plants above are perennial or self-seeding, and will come back every year with minimal upkeep. Others, including sunflowers and select herbs, may be annuals only.  Keep this in mind while finishing your yearly planting.

More than anything, it’s important to keep an eye on your yard’s ecosystem. If plants don’t seem to be thriving, or if there are still a surprising number of pests around (insects or otherwise), you might want to retool your chosen species and their pesticide plant companions. 

Your end goal is a toxin-free yard. Once you’ve succeeded in keeping synthetic pesticides out of your yard, you’ll be able to reap the benefits of increased biodiversity around your home, a stronger garden, and a physically healthier crop yield. You’ll fall in love with all your new, helpful plants in no time.

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How to adapt your lawn and garden for longer growing seasons https://www.popsci.com/diy/lawn-garden-longer-growing-season-adapt/ Mon, 21 Mar 2022 13:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=432073
Photo of flowers and grass of a home landscape to illustrate a story about adapting to longer growing seasons.

Here's what you should know about the pros and cons (mostly cons) of the effects of longer growing seasons on your home landscape.

The post How to adapt your lawn and garden for longer growing seasons appeared first on Popular Science.

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Photo of flowers and grass of a home landscape to illustrate a story about adapting to longer growing seasons.

This story was originally featured on Bob Vila.

The changes are subtle, but there’s no doubt that growing seasons are getting longer in most parts of the world. According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), “the average length of the growing season in the contiguous 48 states has increased by more than two weeks since the beginning of the 20th century.”

While this is a welcome change in some areas, it’s having negative impacts on backyard habitats in other places. Longer growing seasons are affecting the gardening experience across the country, but there are actions that you can take to help your landscape transition smoothly.

What created the longer growing seasons?

A growing season is a length of time during which rainfall and temperature are optimal to allow plants to grow. Most people measure that time frame from first to last frost dates. Growing seasons are also influenced by air temperatures, frost days, rainfall, and daylight hours.

The cause of longer growing seasons is climate change. “The average surface temperature of the world has increased about two degrees Fahrenheit or 1.1 degrees Celsius since the beginning of the 20th century,” explains Dr. Daniel A. Herms, Vice President of Research and Development at Davey Trees. The increased global temperatures also created a shift in precipitation patterns, causing plants to bloom earlier and first fall frosts to arrive later. According to the EPA, the growing season has lengthened in almost every state, but is increasing faster in Western states.

Pros and cons of longer growing seasons

Based on the data, a longer growing season would suggest you could enjoy blooms earlier and garden longer. However, not all areas will benefit from a lengthier growing season. “There are winners, and there are losers,” says Herms, “In northern climates, agriculture will benefit as long as there’s favorable precipitation.”

Pros

  • Your area may now be a suitable habitat for plants that normally live in more southern regions. “We can now grow southern magnolias in Ohio” says Herms, “So that might be considered a good thing, but it’s a sign that things are changing.
  • Southern gardeners have long enjoyed the ability to garden year-round. As the growing season increases, northern gardeners are experiencing the joy of getting multiple harvests from their gardens and enjoying spring blooms earlier in the season.

Cons

  • Insect pests are emerging earlier. “It’s (longer growing seasons) changing their life cycles or we are seeing more generations per year for certain insect pests than in the past, and populations are growing faster,” explains Herms.
  • Invasive plants that normally thrive in warmer climates are shifting north. Problematic species such as kudzu and garlic mustard are moving into new areas that have previously not been warm enough for them to thrive.
  • There is phenological asynchrony (affecting the interactions of species, availability of resources, and shifting of ranges). Because the warmer climate causes insects to emerge and flowers to bloom earlier, pollinators and birds may arrive too late to feed. Bird and pollinator migrations are primarily based on day length. “Dartmouth College professors did a long term study of the Warblers and other migratory birds in the Hubbard Brook forest,” explains Herms, “ They found that their reproductive success has declined.” This decline is the result of less availability of caterpillars when they’re returning from their overwintering grounds.
  • Increased heat waves and unpredictable droughts are more prevalent. Plants and insects experience heat stress just like people.
  • Climate shifts are leading to loss of habitat. Native plants may no longer be able to survive in portions of their historic range.

What you can do

The cons outweigh the pros for a longer growing season, but there are some things you can do to help mitigate the effects of warmer climates.

Study the phenology of your yard

Phenology is the study of cyclic and seasonal climate and how it affects plant and animal life patterns. Many scientists and historians have used the natural study to record environmental changes for thousands of years. One of the most famous American phenologists was Henry David Thoreau. He made detailed records of phenological events at Walden Pond. “In recent years, researchers went back and revisited Walden Pond and found that everything is blooming earlier,” explains Herms.

Observe your local area and take notes on when early spring bloomers break dormancy. Take note of when garden pests arrive. This process takes a few seasons’ worths of observations to see a pattern.

Adapt and diversify

Nature has an amazing ability to adapt, and it may take several seasons for your landscape to adapt to its new environment. You can also choose plants that will thrive better in warmer climates and are more drought tolerant. “Choose the right plant for the site,” says Herms, “Understanding the physiological requirements and tolerances of those plants, and then recognizing that’s going to change in time.”

You can also plant species from the next hardiness zone to see how the plant responds to your landscape. This information will help you choose what types of plants will work best for your area. For example, if you live in zone 7, try a hardy version of a zone 8 plant.

Water wisely

During increased heat waves and droughts, it’s essential to set up your landscape for success. Use drought-tolerant plants to limit your watering needs. Consider installing a drip irrigation system or watering earlier in the day for more efficient watering. And use mulch around plants to help provide nutrients to the soil while helping to retain moisture, cool roots, and suppress weeds.

The post How to adapt your lawn and garden for longer growing seasons appeared first on Popular Science.

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What you should know about film photography today https://www.popsci.com/diy/what-you-should-know-about-film-photography-today/ Fri, 18 Mar 2022 23:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=431786
Hands holding a film camera illustrating an article about how film photography has changed over the last few years.
What's changed and what's stayed the same?. Deposit Photos

Going back to film photography? Here's what's changed in the last few years.

The post What you should know about film photography today appeared first on Popular Science.

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Hands holding a film camera illustrating an article about how film photography has changed over the last few years.
What's changed and what's stayed the same?. Deposit Photos

This post was originally featured on PopPhoto.com.

A vast number of today’s film photographers are not analog newbies, but rather experienced film users who are returning to the medium after years of shooting digital. With all the advances in digital and computational photography, it’s no surprise that many photographers want to get back to a form of photography where skill matters more than the size of your CPU. If you’re thinking of dusting off your old film cameras, here are five key things that have changed.

1. A few of your favorite films are gone—but there are new ones

When you shop for film, you’ll notice that some old favorites like Kodak Plus-X and Fujichrome have been discontinued—but you’ll also see a plethora of new stocks from manufacturers like Cinestill, which modifies motion-picture film for still-camera use, and Lomography, which specializes in funky films. You’ll also find B&W film from Foma (also sold under the Arista brand), a Czech company with a hundred-year history that now sells film in the United States. 

If you’re looking to start with something familiar, you’ll find plenty of familiar emulsions from KodakIlford, and Fujifilm, some of which have been reformulated for easier scanning, like Fujifilm Neopan Acros 100 II. Many of these companies are renewing their commitment to film, bringing back discontinued emulsions, and creating new ones. The bottom line is that today’s film photographers have plenty of choices.

2. Expensive cameras are now cheap… and some cheap cameras are expensive

Used-camera prices have been on the rise since bottoming out about 15 years ago, but there are still plenty of bargains to be had—and on some surprisingly good cameras. Ironically, simple and common cameras like the Pentax K1000 and Canon AE-1 often command premium prices, due largely to nostalgia—those were the cameras we used when we were starving students. But the cameras we lusted after and couldn’t afford—high-end rigs like the Nikon N8008s and Minolta Maxxum 9000—now mostly sell for bargain-basement prices.

Even pro-level cameras like the Nikon F4 and Canon EOS-1 are relatively affordable compared to professional digital cameras. Leicas and Hasselblads are still among the most expensive—good to know some things never change—but for the most part, today’s returning film photographers are finding that the cameras that were once unaffordable are now within easy (financial) reach. The one major exception to this is the premium compact camera market, which has completely blown up with inflated prices.

3. The home-developing scene is more robust than ever

Most photographers who took a Photo 101 course learned to develop and print their own B&W film. Today, there is a wealth of resources available to do-it-yourself developers, from a plethora of chemistry (including old favorites and new choices) to handy-dandy devices that eliminate the need for a darkroom (for developing, anyway). Even color film development is more accessible, thanks to all-in-one kits that provide all the chemicals you need in a single package—you just need to provide temperature control, which is easy enough to do with an inexpensive sous vide heater— here’s how

Printing images still takes space and a more elaborate setup, but many photographers now choose to scan their negatives for easier viewing and sharing. There are several affordable scanners on the market, and many film photographers get great results by scanning their film with a digital camera and macro lens. Should you want to go full-on old-school and print your own but don’t think you have the space, you’re covered: Ilford makes a portable pop-up darkroom.

4. Your old film camera is probably still working

Unlike the throw-away electronics we’ve become used to over the past couple of decades, film cameras have proven to be surprisingly durable and reliable—and not just older mechanical models, either; many electronic cameras have held up surprisingly well. Pop in a set of batteries and a roll of film, and you might be surprised to find your old camera works just as well as it did the last time you used it all those years ago.

If your camera isn’t 100%, there are many remedies available. Some cameras need a simple clean-up of their battery contacts to work, and older mechanical cameras may have some gummed-up lubricants that need to be worked loose. Light-seal foam often deteriorates, though not always to the point that it affects photos, and there are DIY replacement kits. And believe it or not, there are still plenty of repair shops that work on film cameras. A simple CLA—cleaning, lube, and adjustment—will often get your camera in working order, usually for $75 to $150.

5. The support community is better than ever.

It used to be that if you had a question about film photography, you had to consult a book, your local camera shop, or a college photo professor. Today, we have the Internet—and it has embraced the thriving film community.

Most film and chemical manufacturers now publish their datasheets online, but what if you want information they won’t provide—like how to best develop Ilford Pan F, pulled two stops to ASA 12—The Massive Dev Chart, a community-sourced film development resource, will tell you. There are great film photography podcasts and a thriving online community of analog-related forums, where we’ve been amazed at some of the obscure questions we’ve seen asked—and answered—by online film fans. And, of course, there’s PopPhoto, where we’ll continue to support the film photography community.

The post What you should know about film photography today appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

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Turn ordinary chocolate into a glimmering, iridescent treat https://www.popsci.com/diy/how-to-make-holographic-chocolate/ Thu, 17 Mar 2022 12:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=431630
A couple dozen thumbnail-sized squares of chocolate, each with blotches and streaks of vivid rainbow colors.
So shiny! No food coloring or other dyes involved. Janelle Shane

Bend light to your will, and feast.

The post Turn ordinary chocolate into a glimmering, iridescent treat appeared first on Popular Science.

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A couple dozen thumbnail-sized squares of chocolate, each with blotches and streaks of vivid rainbow colors.
So shiny! No food coloring or other dyes involved. Janelle Shane

Chocolate is already wonderful, but did you know that it can also be iridescent? In just 10 to 20 minutes, you can shape the surface of a chocolate bar into a shimmering rainbow sheen.

Those multicolored hues aren’t coming from dyes or coatings, either—their source is nothing more than light waves bouncing off minuscule textures on the candy itself.

The key is to use a surface with tiny grooves as a mold for molten chocolate. Think of the rainbow shine of a CD. It has those colors because of microscopic pits that encode data, which are small enough that they also cause light waves to interfere with each other in an effect known as diffraction. You’ll be using a thin, grooved sheet called a diffraction grating as your mold.

When you melt chocolate onto a grating, the chocolate seeps into all the little grooves. When the chocolate hardens and you lift the grating off, the chocolate itself will have the grating pattern on its surface. If you shine white light on the chocolate, you’ll see a rainbow. If you use a laser to shine just one color of light on the candy, the chocolate will diffract light into spots. Technically speaking, you’ve created a simple hologram.

Only tempered chocolate has the fine crystal structure to fit into the diffraction grating grooves and keep its shiny surface when it’s removed. Fortunately, most commercially sold chocolate is tempered, so if you start with a chocolate bar and only melt it a little, it will still harden as tempered chocolate. The grooves in the grating I used are only 20 microns wide (about 1/5 the width of a human hair), and I’ve even gotten it to take the shape of the 0.5-micron pits in the surface of a CD—chocolate is not just delicious, but an impressive optical material!

Fun side note: this can also work on some other kinds of food. In the late ‘80s and ‘90s a company called Dimensional Foods (and a spinoff called Lightvision) managed to cast holograms into lollipops, sushi wrappers, communion wafers, fruit, and matzoh. Unfortunately, the technique never caught on, and Dimensional Foods is no more. I, for one, would welcome a holographic reboot!

Before you start

1. Choose your chocolate. You can use almost any bar chocolate, including baking chocolate. Dark chocolate makes the colors show up best, but milk chocolate and white chocolate will also work. Try to pick a brand (like Lindt) whose squares have a very flat top. I’ve also successfully used the bottoms of individual chocolate chips. Avoid any chunky additives like nuts, as these will mess up the pattern by preventing the chocolate from molding tightly to the grating.

2. Choose your diffraction grating. I used the double-axis grating (13,500 lines per inch) linked in the ingredients list, since it will give you the colors at more angles than a single-axis (linear) grating.

The side of the thin sheet that has the grating structure is the one you’ll want to use for your chocolate (or your mold). The grating side will appear less shiny than the other side, and it’ll make a high-pitched squeaking sound when you rub a finger across it.

You can reuse gratings if you wash them well—no scrubbing, but plenty of hot water and dish soap. You’re trying to get any remaining chocolate or fingerprint oils out of the grooves without scratching the surface. Try not to fold or crease the gratings, since any folds will be permanent.

If you want to be sure that everything touching the chocolate is food-safe (or you want to get fancy—check the advanced instructions below), you can use the gratings to make your own mold out of food-safe silicone. Follow package instructions, and ensure that when you press your grating into the mold, the grating side is facing the silicone. You’ll know it worked if the silicone mold has a holographic shine when you lift the grating off. I’ve tested this successfully with Smooth-Sil 940, but other silicone mixes may work too.

Stats

  • Time: 10 to 20 minutes
  • Ingredient cost: $35
  • Difficulty: Easy to moderate

Ingredients

  • A bar of chocolate

Tools

Instructions

1. Break a bar of good chocolate into squares.

2. Separately, fill a pot with hot tap water. Let the water run until the pot is about 2 inches (5 centimeters) from full, then balance a baking dish over the pot so the water will heat it.

  • Warning: Be careful not to get any water into the chocolate at any point, or it’ll seize up and you’ll have to throw it all out and start over.

3. Adjust the temperature and height of the water. Stick with this until the surface of the baking dish is about 90 to 95 degrees (32 to 35 Celsius).

4. Melt the surface of the chocolate. Take a piece of chocolate and rub it in place on the baking dish until the chocolate melts just enough that the entire surface in contact with the dish is molten. Cold hands will help here so that you can maintain your grip on the chocolate piece.

5. Use the grating. Press the molten side of the piece of chocolate onto your diffraction grating (grating side up) and twist or rock it a little to get good contact. Leave the piece of chocolate on the grating.

6. Freeze the chocolate. Once you’ve melted and placed all the chocolate pieces you want, put the grating in the freezer for about 5 minutes to harden.

  • Note: You can also leave it at room temperature for 10 minutes.

7. Remove the chocolate from the freezer. Then, lift the chocolate off the grating, being careful to only handle the edges of the chocolate. Any heat from your fingertips will melt the delicate surface structure.

8. Look for colors! They’ll show up best under strong directional light, like direct sunlight or a flashlight.

  • Note: You may have to play around with the angle of your light source to get a good view of those glimmering hues.

9. Store the chocolate. For best results, keep it at cool room temperature or colder. If the surface melts slightly, the grooves will go away. (This is, alas, why eating holographic chocolate won’t make you poop rainbows.)

Advanced instructions

If you’d like to get fancy and make custom shapes, you can pour tempered chocolate onto the diffraction grating, as described by jellmeister on Instructables.com.

Tempering chocolate takes much longer (and can be tricky if it’s your first time) but the results can be spectacular. If you’re not sure how well you tempered the chocolate, keep it in the freezer until just before you want to serve it. Poorly tempered chocolate will lose most of its colors within an hour or so at room temperature, but it should stay shiny for several days in the freezer. Well-tempered holographic chocolate will keep for weeks at room temperature.

  • Pro tip: You can even make a mold from a CD. First you’ll have to make a small cut on the label side and use a piece of tape to lift the label off. Underneath, there’s a grating that a silicone mold can pick up.

As a parting example of fancy things you can do with the tempered chocolate method, I cut a unicorn out of diffraction grating, taped it to a CD, and used Smooth-Sil 940 to make a mold.  Once the mold solidified, I poured tempered chocolate into it and then peeled the mold away to reveal this sparkly unicorn medallion.

Science: sometimes there are holographic chocolate unicorns.

A disk of chocolate with a unicorn standing in shallow relief on its surface. Both the disk and the unicorn are reflecting rainbow colors.
Glimmer on, unicorn friend. Janelle Shane

The post Turn ordinary chocolate into a glimmering, iridescent treat appeared first on Popular Science.

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Why every photographer should try film https://www.popsci.com/diy/why-every-photographer-should-try-film/ Wed, 16 Mar 2022 10:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=431393
Photo of a film and DSLR camera.

Going from digital to analog can make you a better photographer.

The post Why every photographer should try film appeared first on Popular Science.

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Photo of a film and DSLR camera.

This article was originally featured on Popular Photography.

We know our share of fussy digital photographers who would never try film. But we also know plenty of others who find working with analog to be the more enjoyable and rewarding form of photography. Not only that, shooting film hones skills that are transferable to digital. With that in mind, here are five compelling reasons to pick up an analog camera and start shooting film.

1. Film forces focus on the fundamentals

We see a lot of new photographers who get so caught up in the high-tech features of their digital cameras that they never get a good grasp on the basics of exposure, which is one of the most fundamental and foundational concepts in photography. Instead of developing this important skill, they count on automation, post-production recovery, or just plain luck to get a well-executed photo.

With film, there is no getting away from the importance of exposure—it is your primary tool in making a good photo. Even with film types that have a wide exposure latitude (tolerance for over- or under-exposure), the better the exposure, the better the results. Happily, analog cameras make it easy to concentrate on exposure, as shutter speed and aperture are our primary controls (and often the only ones we can set). When shooting film, we must sharpen our exposure skills, and that is knowledge that will serve us equally well in digital photography.

2. Film removes the barriers between you and your medium

With digital photography, there’s a convoluted path between the scene you see before you and the photograph you create. The light that strikes the sensor is subject to a battery of data algorithms that differs from camera to camera, the exact contents of which are guarded like state secrets. What happens between the exposure and a file being written to the card? Only the camera’s engineers can say for sure.

Film removes all of those barriers. When you release the shutter, you are physically exposing silver halide crystals to light. When you develop your film, you are directly controlling the chemical process that creates the visible image, with the ability to alter it as you see fit. There are no barriers and no “secret sauce” between you and the process—you are literally interacting directly with light-sensitive media, a process that digital photography, for all its computational wizardry, can never emulate.

3. Film helps you concentrate on composition

It’s a mistake we’ve all made: We spend a ton of time getting our digital camera setup just-so to achieve a specific effect, resulting in a photo that is technically perfect, but aesthetically a total snoozer. With the phalanx of choices offered by today’s digital cameras, it’s easy to become so preoccupied with settings that composition takes a back seat.

With analog, there is no plethora of parameters to set: Once we’ve chosen and loaded our film, all we need to do is compose, focus, set exposure, and shoot. Composition becomes key, all the more so because film is a pay-per-click medium—we have a good incentive to really study what’s in the viewfinder and ask, “Is this photo really worth it?”

While we certainly don’t create a masterpiece every time we release the shutter, when we’re shooting with film, it often seems we get more “keepers”—and each one feels that much sweeter.

4. Film cameras tend to be more affordable

If you’re a gearhead, it’s easy to spend a small fortune on digital cameras and lenses. Nowadays, even an entry-level rig with a couple of good-quality lenses will set you back at least a thousand dollars, while high-end pro-level bodies sell for $3,000 or more. A good-sized collection of gear can cost as much as a car.

Film cameras, by comparison, are an absolute bargain. Today, the most advanced and feature-rich film cameras are often among the most affordable—we’re talking $100 or less. Lenses, too, sell for a fraction of their digital equivalents. Even some high-end film cameras, including Leicas and Hasselblads, are reasonably priced compared to their high-end digital equivalents. For many film photographers, using different gear is part of the fun, and for the cost of a single digital camera, one can acquire an armada of film gear. (And if you think using your film cameras is too expensive, think again.)

5. Film can be more challenging

The goal of the photography industry has always been to narrow the gap between the skill of the photographer and the quality of the results they can achieve, and digital (along with computational) photography is its grandest triumph. We’re not saying digital photography is easy—or rather, that good digital photography is easy—but digital photography, in many ways, requires less skill to get high-quality photos. 

Shooting analog, on the other hand, requires a more finely-tuned skill set. Even highly-automated film cameras use (relatively) unsophisticated meters that are easily fooled, requiring photographers to be more cognizant of the light around them and what exposure parameters to use. The simple act of manually focusing a camera presents a challenge that many digital photographers have not experienced. And film presents far fewer opportunities than digital to fix mistakes in post-production.

Taking good film photographs requires developing and honing your photography skills, which we find to be an enjoyable challenge compared to the point-shoot-and-peep process of digital photography.

The post Why every photographer should try film appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

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Build your own hot glue gun stand to prove you know more than scalding goop https://www.popsci.com/diy/diy-hot-glue-gun-stand/ Fri, 11 Mar 2022 19:30:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=430412
diy glue gun stand
You won't ever have to worry about hot glue getting everywhere while you craft. Jean Levasseur

A project to keep your crafting clean and safe.

The post Build your own hot glue gun stand to prove you know more than scalding goop appeared first on Popular Science.

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diy glue gun stand
You won't ever have to worry about hot glue getting everywhere while you craft. Jean Levasseur

The other day my wife was complaining about her glue gun. The built-in stand gets in the way when she’s trying to put small things together and it’s also flimsy, so the gun regularly falls over. 

To make her life easier, she asked me to build a better stand that would hold the glue gun upright. But I didn’t stop there—I designed a solution with storage space for extra glue sticks, and an easy-to-clean, removable reservoir that would catch the melted glue that dribbles out of the nozzle. 

At its core, this project is easy and perfect for beginner woodworkers. The whole thing is just two pieces of wood (a base and a stand), glued together to make an upside-down T. The vertical section has a slot to hold the gun, and the base features a metallic jar lid as a drip pan and a small box at one end. But if you want to keep it simple, you can focus on the stand and skip these add-ons altogether. 

You can easily use scrap wood for this build, so you may not even have to run to the store to get started. It’s projects like this that make my urge to never throw wood away totally worth it.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a face mask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

  • Time: 2 to 3 hours
  • Material cost: $10 to $20
  • Difficulty: Easy, with optional intermediate steps

Materials

Tools

Instructions

hand measuring piece of wood
Measurements will depend largely on the size of your hot glue gun. Jean Levasseur

1. Cut the wood to length. The type of wood you use doesn’t matter for this project. Pine is likely the cheapest option, but I used some scraps of mahogany that I had leftover from another build. 

The exact dimensions you’ll need will be based on two variables: the size of your glue gun, and whether you want to include the hot glue reservoir and the storage space. My base is 13 inches long, which allows 3 inches behind the gun for the handle to sit on, 6 inches in front of the stand for the nozzle and drip pan, and 4 inches on the far end for the glue box. If you just want to make a barebones version (no drip pan and no box), consider a base 8 to 9 inches long depending on the size of your glue gun.

[Related: Build the three-legged stool you didn’t know your home needed]

The height of the vertical stand will also depend on the glue gun that you have. To find this measurement, stand the glue gun up with the bottom of the handle on a flat surface, and measure up from there to the base of the trigger. To that number, add 1 inch for the gun slot, and, if you decide to use a dado to fit the stand on the base (see Step 3), also add an extra 1/4-inch. The final measurement will be the total height of your stand. For example, my glue gun needed to sit at 2 inches, so I cut a piece of wood that was 3 1/4 inches tall.

Once you have the correct dimensions, cut the wood using a miter saw, circular saw, or table saw if you have a crosscut sled

2. Cut the slot for the glue gun. Draw a line along the center of your stand board. Then, measure the width of the barrel of the glue gun, divide it in half, and add 1/8-inch to the result. Take that number, measure it out from both sides of the line you drew along the center of your stand board, and mark it down—that is the width of the gun slot.

piece of wood with carving lines drawn on it
The slot can have a V shape, a square, or a curve. Jean Levasseur

Determine the bottom of the gun slot by making a mark an inch down from the top of the stand board, and along the centerline. Connect this mark to both ends of the slot width to determine the shape of the slot—you can make it a V, a rectangle, or a curve. In my case, the slot was 1 1/4 inches wide, and about 1 inch deep.

Use a jigsaw or a coping saw to cut out the slot. I used my rotary cutter with a sanding disc to clean up and shape the slot, and round the corners. If you don’t have a rotary tool, you can use sandpaper and some elbow grease. 

Test-fit the glue gun. If it rests at the angle you’re looking for, you’re all set. If it doesn’t, deepen and widen the cut as needed. 

3. (Optional) Cut a dado slot in the baseboard for the stand to fit in. Position the stand perpendicular to the baseboard, and trace the thickness onto it. 

Raise the table saw blade to about 1/4 inch, or half the thickness of your baseboard. Using the miter fence, create a dado or groove by running the board over your saw blade inside those lines. This will take multiple passes, moving the board over about 1/8 inch at a time, until you have hogged out the entire dado. You can also use a router and a straight-cutting bit, but I find the table saw easier on small projects. As you get close to your lines, make sure to stop and test-fit the stand often—you’re looking for a tight fit for maximum stability. 

  • Note: If you don’t have the tools or confidence to cut a dado, you can just glue the stand flat on the base. Still, this groove will make assembly easier, so we highly recommend it.

4. (Optional) Cut an inset hole for the drip pan. One of my wife’s requirements for this project was a removable drip pan or glue-catcher for easier cleaning. You can use just about anything that’s temperature resistant and non-porous, as that will allow you to easily remove dried glue. I used a metal lid from a peanut butter jar, but a lot of projects online use tile, for example.

To keep the glue-catcher in place, you’ll need to create an inset for it. Trace the lid or tile in the center of the board, directly below where the nozzle of your glue gun will hang. Then use a router and a straight-cutting bit set to about 3/8 inch to hog out the material in the hole. 

You can build a template for this out of plywood, but I just freehanded the cut. The metal lid or tile will hide the edges of the hole, so you won’t be able to see any small mistakes. 

  • Note: Just as with the dado, this step isn’t strictly necessary if you’re not set up for it. Instead, you can just glue down a piece of metal or tile. 

5. (Optional) Measure and cut the box boards. With the main structure of the stand built, move on to the box. The box is 4 by 2 inches, and a total of 3 inches tall, which is an inch shorter than the glue sticks my wife gets. If your glue sticks are longer, consider making a taller box so they stay in place. 

I cut the top of the box at an angle strictly for visual interest. If you want to do that as well, simply cut the front board of the box 2 inches tall instead of 3. Then dry-fit the box and draw the angle from front to back on each of the side pieces. Cut those angles with a hand saw. 

Glue the four pieces of the box together and clamp securely. Make sure the bottom of the box is perfectly flush, and check that the box is square as you clamp. You can do this by measuring the diagonals of the rectangle across the bottom—if they are the same length, the box is square; if they aren’t, you’ll need to adjust the box and re-clamp. 

When the glue is dry, sand the box with your orbital sander and 80-grit sandpaper to clean up the angles and base, and remove any glue residue. We recommend you do this now, as it’ll be easier than doing it when the full piece is together. 

6. Assemble the stand. Spread wood glue inside the dado, making sure to go up the sides of the groove. Then, insert the stand, making sure it remains at about 90 degrees, and clamp securely. 

woodwork project with clamps
Clamps are your friends. Jean Levasseur

If you built one, glue the box onto the far end of the baseboard, keeping it as flush to the base as you can. Clamp securely and let dry. 

Use a wet paper towel or rag to remove the glue squeeze-out. The more glue you clean up now, the less you’ll have to sand off later. 

7. Sand, sand, and sand some more. Sanding is crucial to give a woodworking project a good finish. Start by sanding off all the glue residue. You’ll be able to do most of the work with the orbital sander and 80-grit sandpaper, but you’ll have to sand the square corners by hand. Using a sanding block can help sometimes, but I inevitably wind up using a folded piece of sandpaper and my hands to get in there. 

Continue to sand all of the seams flush. 

Once you remove the glue residue and the whole project is smooth, work through the standard grits over the entire piece: 120, followed by 150, 180, and finally, 220. 

[Related: Build your own door and ascend to a higher level of DIY]

8. Apply the finish of your choice. For small projects with lots of nooks and crannies like this one, I use a spray-on polyurethane—it’s easy, fast, offers great protection, and it gets into all of the crevices. Make sure to follow the application instructions on your product of choice. 

9. Start gluing. Fill the box with all your extra glue sticks and start crafting, confident that your glue gun isn’t going to fall over anymore. 

The post Build your own hot glue gun stand to prove you know more than scalding goop appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

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Build your own website, no code required https://www.popsci.com/story/diy/build-website-no-coding/ Fri, 14 Feb 2020 16:39:25 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/uncategorized/build-website-no-coding/
hands on a gray laptop on a wooden table or desk
In the old days, having your own website meant learning how to code or settling for the now-deceased Geocities. Those days are over. Christin Hume via Unsplash

No HTML, no problem.

The post Build your own website, no code required appeared first on Popular Science.

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hands on a gray laptop on a wooden table or desk
In the old days, having your own website meant learning how to code or settling for the now-deceased Geocities. Those days are over. Christin Hume via Unsplash

It doesn’t matter if you’re showing off your work, promoting your small business, or creating a hub for a community group—you don’t need to know a single line of HTML or CSS code to get a professional-looking, fully functional website.

Even if your needs extend to more advanced features, like an online shop or a web-based booking system, website builders out there have all sorts of tools and will surely be able to help you get what you need.

You might actually be surprised at how quickly you can get a webpage up and running.

1. Squarespace

squarespace screenshot
Squarespace will make it easy to get the website of your dreams. David Nield

Squarespace is undoubtedly one of the most comprehensive website builders out there. You can use it to build sites for everything from small businesses to your upcoming wedding, and at the heart of it you’ll find dozens of superbly designed templates to get you started.

You definitely won’t have to settle for the default look Squarespace gives to your favorite template or even worry about running into another website that looks exactly like yours. Just pick a new color or a new font from the menus and let your creativity loose. You can drag around preset page elements or start fresh with a blank page and arrange text, images, forms, and other objects as you like.

Another area where Squarespace is strong is in the sheer number of extras you can quickly and easily add to your site: booking forms, audio snippets, event calendars, e-commerce elements, and more. All of these automatically adopt a style that matches the template you’ve chosen, so it’ll all look cohesive. If you want to build a particular type of website, such as a photography portfolio or a band showcase, you can say so before you even start customizing your website, and some of these extras will be automatically added for you.

From the website builders we’ve tried, we’d say Squarespace has the best template selection out there, and the best process for getting you up and running quickly. Its site-editing tools are impressive, too, letting you change colors, fonts, and layouts with just a few clicks.

There’s no free plan here, just a free trial, so if you don’t want to spend any money at all, you’ll have to look elsewhere.

Squarespace starts at $12 per month, with a free 14-day trial available.

2. Weebly

Weebly screenshot
Weebly is balanced and free. David Nield

Weebly hits a nice balance between being easy to use and offering some advanced site features (including a suite of e-commerce tools). As soon as you sign in, you can quickly pick from a wide variety of templates, which you can then tweak to suit your needs.

The drag-and-drop editor is one of the more straightforward ones out there—it’s just like designing a newsletter in a word processor. Though Weebly’s editor doesn’t offer quite the level of flexibility as some of its rivals, you’ll still be able to easily put together some attractive-looking pages.

You can add plenty of extras to your site, too, including tables, contact forms, and social media feeds. If you’re setting up an online store, Weebly shines above the rest thanks to a partnership with Square, which makes it simple to handle online payments.

Whether Weebly is right for you or not will only depend on how much time you want to spend arranging boxes and headings. You won’t get as much control over every aspect of your site as you do with some competitors, but Weebly shines in terms of ease-of-use and intuitiveness.

Weebly is a great option if you need a professional website but nothing too ambitious—and we mean that in a good way. Maybe you want a website builder that can cope with online stores, photo portfolios, and more, but you don’t need all the editing bells and whistles that the likes of Squarespace and Wix offer.

You can use Weebly free of charge, but paying gets you a custom domain name plus additional features like extra online storage and more advanced e-commerce tools.

Weebly is free, with paid plans from $6 per month.

3. Jimdo

Jimdo screenshot
If you want something easy and simple, Jimdo is the way to go. David Nield

Jimdo tries to boil website building down into as few steps as possible—if you want something that looks good and you want it in the fastest time possible, this platform might be for you.

As with most services, once you’ve signed up for Jimdo, you’ll be asked to pick a template. They’re all smart, without being spectacular, and cover all the basics, including portfolios, blogs, and small businesses. Its editing tools are far from being the most advanced we’ve seen, but that’s not necessarily a problem if you’re looking for something straightforward and easy to use.

Each template gives you the basic options to customize your website, like tweaking covering fonts, page design, and colors. If you know how, you’ll also be able to play around with the HTML code yourself. E-commerce features are available, though other website builders do this better, and the options for extra widgets such as social media feeds, contact forms, and embedded music and video are more limited than on some of Jimdo’s competitors.

Where Jimdo does excel is in its elegant, modern interface—the editing and creation tools are a pleasure to use, and will help you get your site up and running in no time.

You can use Jimdo for free, but with a paid monthly subscription, you can remove ads on your site, use a custom domain name, get more online storage, create an online shop, and more.

Jimdo is free, with paid plans from $9 per month.

4. Tumblr

tumblr screenshot
Don’t be mistaken—Tumblr may seem too simple, but it’s way more flexible than you’d expect. David Nield

If you want your website to be primarily blog-based, Tumblr is an appealing option. It’s part social network, part blogging platform, and it’s much more flexible than its simple, straightforward interface might suggest. For starters, you’ve got a long list of themes to choose from, though some will cost you money, as will extras like your own domain name.

Posts are built around particular types of content—text, images, video, and links—and the emphasis of the platform is to get them up as quickly and as easily as possible. If you know some HTML, you can also tweak posts (and your theme) as required, though Tumblr includes plenty of customization options for non-coders, too.

Dig a little deeper into Tumblr and its credentials as a website builder become apparent. You can create static pages (like “about” or a “contact” pages) alongside your blog posts; you can assign your own domain name to your site rather than using a free .tumblr address, and you can invite multiple users to manage and post to your site.

While Tumblr lacks the advanced features that a certain group of users will want—easy e-commerce integration and full control over layouts, for example—it’ll get you up and running faster than most other website builders. You’ll be able to easily upload and manage posts from the Tumblr mobile app, too.

Tumblr is free, with paid extras.

5. Wix

Wix screenshot
Wix is as comprehensive as webpage builders get. It’ll even create one for you automatically after you answer a couple of questions. David Nield

With Wix, you get two choices when it comes to building your first website. First, you’ve got the Wix ADI (artificial design intelligence) creator, which asks you a few questions and then produces a website for you. Second, you have the Wix Editor, which gives you a bit more of a hands-on experience in terms of layout, fonts, colors, and other page elements.

This shows just how versatile Wix is—whether you’ve never built a website before or have some previous experience, the platform can adapt accordingly.

The ADI creator works well at getting a professional-looking site up in minutes, while the more detailed Editor option gives you plenty of control over page design, graphics, text, and widgets. You can load in contact forms, chat boxes, online stores, booking facilities, Instagram feeds, music, and more. Whether you’re a restaurant or an up-and-coming band, Wix has you covered.

Wix impresses in both its scope and its ease of use, whether it’s the drag-and-drop interfaces, the dozens of site templates available, or the way you can dig into every part of your site and tweak the design.

But deciding whether this is the platform for you is a whole other thing, and eventually, it all comes down to potential—if you want a website builder that will grow with you, Wix is an ideal choice. But if you just want to put a couple of pages together and make a few minor edits over time, Wix is probably more than you need.

You can use the service for free with a custom .wix URL and ads on your site, or pay a monthly fee for extras, including no ads, a custom domain name, and more online storage.

Wix is free, with paid plans from $13 per month.

The post Build your own website, no code required appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

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How to rent out your spare room and be an excellent host https://www.popsci.com/diy/short-term-rental-property-management/ Wed, 09 Mar 2022 19:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/uncategorized/list-manage-rental-property-airbnb-vrbo-homeaway-orbitz-craigslist/
A green plastic dome treehouse in a forest.
We have no idea if this house is available for rent anywhere, but it'd be pretty cool if it was. Kyle Glenn / Unsplash

It’s not for everybody, but it might be for you.

The post How to rent out your spare room and be an excellent host appeared first on Popular Science.

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A green plastic dome treehouse in a forest.
We have no idea if this house is available for rent anywhere, but it'd be pretty cool if it was. Kyle Glenn / Unsplash

Earning a living, or at least a side income, off your property by listing it on a short-term rental website might seem like easy money—the dream. While some are able to make six-figure incomes doing so, the average Airbnb host makes $924 a month sharing their space, and it’s definitely not easy money. Take it from us, two people who earned about $10,000 via sites like Airbnb and Craigslist by renting out our apartment while traveling and also managed a rental property in Maine with an overall rating of 4.8 out of 5 stars. We learned everything the hard way, and, to be honest, we’d like it if you didn’t have to.

Do some soul-searching before you get started

You’re going to be letting strangers into your personal life, so it’s good to think about what’s really involved before potentially winding up in over your head. For starters, ask yourself questions like:

  • How long do I want to rent my place for, and how often?
  • How much do I want to make per night or rental period?
  • Do I want to rent out my whole place or just a room? Do I want to share my space or only rent it when I’m away from home? (These answers will be important as you figure out what’s legal where you live.)
  • Will I need to buy any new furniture, bedding, towels, or other items to make my place ready for guests? Do I have any concerns about privacy or security, and will I need to make any related investments (such as a home security system, privacy fence, soundproofing, or a separate WiFi network)?
  • Who will clean my place between guest stays?
  • Will I manage the listing, all guest inquiries, and potential issues, or should I hire someone to do it? (Keep in mind, you may find yourself fielding multiple inquiries from potential bookings every day, handling guest questions from their arrival to departure, and many platforms encourage you to respond within 24 hours.)
  • Am I OK with guests checking themselves in or will I want myself or someone else to greet them?
  • If I am away and there is an emergency, who can I rely on to help with the guests?

Find out what’s legal (and what’s not) in your area

Depending on where you live, there may be no restrictions on short-term rentals or there may be specific regulations to follow. For instance, New York City has made it illegal to rent out a property for less than 30 days, unless you or the permanent tenant lives in the apartment at the same time, among other rules. San Diego has similar restrictions: It requires people interested in renting out their property for less than 30 days at a time to get a transient occupancy registration certificate. This allows the city to collect a 10.5 percent transient occupancy tax paid by the guest upon booking, a fee not charged if the stay is 30 days or longer.

To find out what’s allowed in your area, check your local city and state government websites. If you live in a condo or a community with a homeowner’s association (HOA), you’ll also need to find out if your property is subject to any policies related to short-term rentals.

Decide where to list your property

There’s a growing number of websites where you can list your short-term rental property, including Airbnb, Vrbo, Orbitz, Booking.com, and, one of the original pioneers of short-term rentals, Craigslist. Each collects a different percentage of the earnings you generate from bookings made on their site. For instance, Airbnb charges most hosts in the US a 3 percent service fee (while certain listing types and hosts outside the US may be charged more). Elsewhere, Vrbo charges variable commission and payment fees based on what the customer is charged and pays. For a budget-friendly option, Craigslist charges hosts a $5 fee to list apartments in New York City, Boston, and Chicago, but is otherwise free.

[Related: The apps and sites you’ll need to rent out everything you own]

Depending on your income goals, you may want to list your property on as many platforms as possible. Doing so will increase your overall bookings while potentially sacrificing more earnings to service fees. If you’d rather earn more per night, however, you may want to forgo listing your place on sites that take a greater cut of your cash.

Managing individual listings, availability calendars, booking inquiries, and booking confirmations across multiple websites can present a logistical challenge. The sites we used as hosts—Airbnb, Vrbo, and HomeAway (which has since merged with Vrbo)—offer the option to sync calendars from platform to platform. If you’re looking for a way to handle everything in one place, there are paid services such as Guesty, Lodgify, and Hostaway available. (Guesty and Hostaway require you to request a quote to find out their pricing, but Lodgify charges between $0 and $48 per month depending on the features you want and how large of a booking fee you want to pay.)

Create an appealing listing

A picture is truly worth a thousand words when it comes to attracting the attention of potential guests, who are most likely looking for options on their smartphones and judging your place based on your photography abilities.

In addition to filling your listing with high-quality pictures, you’ll want to craft an accurate description of your place. This should include the areas of your home or property that guests will have access to (the whole place or specific rooms) and available amenities (such as cooking supplies and snacks), so there are no surprises when your guests arrive. Lastly, you’ll want to list your check-in details and house rules, so guests know how you expect them to treat your place. Be specific about things like check-in and check-out times, quiet hours, and the maximum number of guests.

Accuracy is key, as sites like Airbnb encourage guests to leave reviews, and one of the factors they’re asked to weigh in on is how truthful you’ve been in describing your place.

Set your price

Now it’s time to set the right price for your place. A good place to start is by looking up what your competitors (your neighbors) are charging in your area. Real estate sites like Movoto also provide estimates of a property’s short-term rental income potential. Almost all the popular listing sites have algorithms that will suggest pricing based on your area, but, in the end, you are the one who has the last word.

In addition to your nightly rate, you can include a cleaning fee that guests pay as a one-time charge. When calculating this fee, consider who will be doing the cleaning. If you hire someone, it may cost $15 to $35 an hour, depending on where you live.

At first, you may want to offer a special 10 to 20 percent discount to the first three guests to help you get your first bookings. This may motivate guests to stay with you, since people may otherwise be hesitant to book a place without any reviews.

To encourage longer-term bookings (and less turnover for you), you can also offer discounts on an ongoing basis when guests book a week-long stay or longer, or a stay of at least 30 days. For instance, 10 percent off for a full week, or 15-20 percent off for a month or longer.

A note about short-term stays: They may help you fill up your booking calendar, but will also mean more frequent cleanings and, potentially, more wear and tear on your home. If you’re fine with that, you can experiment and set the parameters that work best for your needs.

Track your revenue

A sample spreadsheet for tracking rental property income.
A sample of the spreadsheet we used to track our rental income. Mary Kearl

Although individual property listing websites will tell you the revenue you’ve earned from their platform, you may want to track all your earnings if you’re listing on multiple sites. Paid booking management services like Guesty can help, but if you plan to do it yourself, these are some of the key metrics we tracked for our properties:

  • Date booked on
  • Number of nights booked
  • Booking site used
  • Total payout
  • Guest name
  • Discount amount and percent (if applicable)
  • Booking site service fee amount and percent (if applicable)
  • Cleaning fees
  • Losses due to cancelations or refunds
  • Total earnings
  • Nightly earnings
  • Percent occupancy by month

Be prepared to provide customer service

Think of the customer service you’ll need to provide in the following stages:

Pre-booking

At this stage, people are deciding whether or not your place is the right one for them, and they may ask for more information about your listing. For instance, they might want to know if you can make an exception to your no-dog policy, if the check-in and check-out times are flexible, what specific amenities are available, and what attractions are nearby. We found it helpful to create a document we could pull answers from when responding to the most frequently asked questions.

We also put together a list of recommendations for the area, with suggestions including local restaurants, grocery stores, wineries, bars, parks, museums, events, and attractions. That way, when people asked about these at this stage, the answer was just a copy-paste away.

Upon booking confirmation

If your guests haven’t already reached out for recommendations or asked about the check-in process, they may do so now.

Ahead of guest arrival

To stay ahead of guest questions, you may want to reach out with all the information they’ll need for a smooth check-in. We created a standard welcome message detailing the check-in process, local recommendations, the WiFi details, quiet hours, and our contact information.

After check-in and during the guest’s stay

At this point, your job is to make sure your guests arrive safely and find everything they need to have a comfortable stay. After an initial introduction, your contact may be minimal for the rest of the stay.

We left a printed guide to the house inside the property we managed in Maine, which detailed where guests could find things like extra towels, sheets, toiletries, and coffee, along with instructions for the WiFi, the check-out process, and how to contact us in an emergency.

After check-out

On guest turnover days, your goal is to get your first guest checked out, the cleaning done, and, if there’s another arrival that same day, your next guest checked in smoothly. To make sure you have the timing coordinated, it’s a good idea to send the cleaning person (or yourself, if that’s the case) to clean an hour after your guests depart. That way, your departing guests won’t feel rushed.

Post-departure review

With many short-term booking rental sites, you and your guests can each rate each other. While there’s nothing you can do to change a review once it’s published, you can respond to it to show future potential guests that you take the time to address and respond to customer feedback (good or bad).

We’ve seen friends and family who have tried bringing in extra income via short-term renting go all in—at nearly full occupancy from the start—and burn out within a few weeks or months. It’s okay to invest time and find out this really isn’t for you. If you can, try to take things slow, and, if you’re not sure this is something you will be able to sustain, limit the money you spend buying things like new furniture or supplies. But if you find providing this service suits you well—happy hosting!

The post How to rent out your spare room and be an excellent host appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

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Build a garden that’ll have pollinators buzzin’ https://www.popsci.com/diy/bee-garden-guide/ Sat, 15 May 2021 19:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=364851
Bee-pollinating-purple-flower
For bees, colorful flowers are neon signs pointing to a rest stop. Krzysztof Niewolny / Unsplash

Transform your outdoor space into a thriving pollinator destination.

The post Build a garden that’ll have pollinators buzzin’ appeared first on Popular Science.

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Bee-pollinating-purple-flower
For bees, colorful flowers are neon signs pointing to a rest stop. Krzysztof Niewolny / Unsplash

Pollinators are a vital component of our ecosystems. Approximately 80 percent of crops used for human consumption require animals like bees, butterflies, and even bats to transport pollen from one plant to another in order to reproduce. 

Unfortunately, pollinators face several challenges around the world. Honey bees currently suffer from colony collapse disorder, caused by habitat loss, pesticides, and disease. These negative factors also affect native bees. Additionally, butterflies like the monarch are seeing substantial population declines, too

Without pollinators, we’d be lost. No, worse: We’d be hungry. And, in time, our planet would be in serious danger of mass extinction. 

But research shows that people can help propagate pollinators by planting native species in their gardens. To do so, you’ll need to “think like a bee,” says Douglas Tallamy, professor of entomology and wildlife ecology at the University of Delaware. 

Guiding principles

Tallamy, author of Nature’s Best Hope: A New Approach to Conservation that Starts in Your Yard, emphasizes the importance of focusing gardens on bees. 

These little critters are more efficient pollinators than butterflies. They have tiny hairs that catch pollen and help transfer it from one plant to another. Bees also have a knack for targeting the right areas of a flower, rubbing pollen directly onto the sticky stigma, the female part of the flower. 

[Related: Humans need bumble bees—and they are disappearing faster than we thought]

Bee species can be broken down into two types: specialists and generalists. Specialists like to feed on specific kinds of plants, whereas generalists have a more diverse diet. When planning your garden, you should design it for specialist bees, Tallamy says. His logic is sound: Cater to the pickiest eaters, and the generalists will still show up to join in the feast. 

Sunflowers, for example, are one of the best plants for your garden, because they benefit many bee species. If you plant a bed of them, you will not only draw the appropriate specialist bees, but also generalists like bumble bees and honey bees. 

No matter what flowers you plant, their benefits will go beyond bees. At the end of the blooming season, sunflowers dry up, leaving seeds that attract various kinds of birds, bats, and mice in search of a nutritious meal. 

You should also consider maintaining a healthy and diverse population of plantlife so you have blooms throughout the year. Following the previous example, most sunflowers bloom mid-summer to early fall, so you would want to make sure you also had spring blooms, such as common yarrow or wild geranium in your garden. Maintaining flowers year-round (or as close as you can get) will ensure your pollinator garden reaches its fullest potential. 

[Related: A sting-free guide to becoming a DIY beekeeper]

Your garden should be more of a lush habitat for wildlife than a curated display for passersby, so don’t focus entirely on flowers, either. If you learn what plants your pollinators like to nest in or hang out around, your garden will be even more useful. A common misconception, for example, is that people should not plant milkweeds because, well, they are weeds.

But research shows that fewer milkweed plants is the main cause for the declining monarch butterfly population. These majestic insects prefer to lay their eggs on milkweed leaves, so planting more of these perennials is the one way you can truly help this species. 

Other weeds, such as dandelions and clover, will also attract pollinators to your garden during the spring and summer.

What to plant

If you’re lucky enough to have a 6-by-3-foot garden that gets six or more hours of sun daily, you can put your plants directly in the ground. If you don’t have the land, having even just one type of native plant on your apartment balcony can make a difference. 

[Related: You really can help save bees by planting wildflowers]

But before you hit your local nursery store and buy the first leafy, colorful beauty that catches your eye, it helps to know what plants are native to your geographical region. This way, you can cater to your local pollinators and prevent invasive species from taking over. 

Northeast region

This area includes Pennsylvania, West Virginia, Virginia, and all the states northeast of those three. The primary recommendation from Canadian NGO Pollinator Partnership, is to plant foxglove beardtongue, Eastern red columbine, and wild geranium in the spring. In the summer, switch to bee balm, Joe Pye weed, and common milkweed, then transition to New England aster, gray goldenrod, and white wood aster in the fall. 

Intermountain region 

If you live in Colorado, Idaho, Montana, Nevada, Utah, or Wyoming, this is for you. Plant common yarrow, Richardson’s geranium, and mountain bluebells in the spring; showy milkweed, blue flax, and tufted evening primrose in the summer; and aspen fleabane, blanketflower, and silvery lupine in the fall. 

Midwest region 

In the spring, residents of Iowa, Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, Ohio, and Wisconsin, should opt for Eastern columbine, squirrel corn, and foxglove beardtongue. In the summer, plant common milkweed, bee balm, and Joe Pye weed, followed by white wood aster, gray goldenrod, and New England aster in the fall. 

Northwest region

The region comprises Idaho, Oregon, and Washington. Here it’s ideal to plant common yarrow, Oregon grape, and redflower currant in the spring. In the summer, you can grow showy/narrowleaf milkweed, Oregon sunshine, and mountain monardella; then Western coneflower, West coast goldenrod, and Douglas aster in the fall. 

If you can’t find one of the plants listed above at your local nursery, Pollinator Partnerships has region-specific garden cards that will give you secondary options for your local pollinators. 

For even more specific guidelines, you can also enter your zip code on their website and get comprehensive information about selecting plants for your area. 

Build your garden

Once you get your plants, it’s time to give them a new home. 

If you have the land, start with the basics. First, dig a hole twice as big as the pot the plant came in, and then remove the plant from the pot. You’ll need to loosen the roots, place it in the hole, and backfill with the soil you’ve dug up. Pack the soil, and water your new plant. Add mulch to the plot at a depth no greater than one inch. When mulching, make sure to avoid the stems. Piling up too much mulch around a stem can cause it to rot and make it more susceptible to pests.  

[Related: Pesticides are making bees dumber]

You may hand-weed the plot as needed, but resist the urge to use insecticides, pesticides, and fungicides once your garden blooms, as they might kill pollinators, too. Also, remember that growing anything takes time. Don’t be discouraged if your garden doesn’t look like your vision from the get-go—it may take a couple of years for it to fill in as desired. 

Every bit matters

As a responsible citizen of the world, we owe it to ourselves and the planet to use our land to its fullest potential. No matter its size, your garden and the pollinators it attracts will play an important role in maintaining a thriving local ecosystem. 

With your plant knowledge and gardening skills in hand, you can start thinking beyond gardens, too. You can volunteer at forest preserves to help plant native species, or you can educate people in your community about native pollinators and plants so they can do their part. 

Each of us has the power to contribute. If every city rooftop, windowsill, home garden, and empty plot of land were dedicated to ecological conservation, there’s no doubt it would create quite a buzz. 

Correction August 17, 2021, 10:34 hrs.: The main picture in this story depicted a pollinator fly instead of a bee. It has been changed.

The post Build a garden that’ll have pollinators buzzin’ appeared first on Popular Science.

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5 ways to keep bees buzzing that don’t require a hive https://www.popsci.com/diy/save-the-bees/ Tue, 08 Jun 2021 14:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=370643
bees-drinking-nectar-from-feeder
Putting up a bee rest-stop will help them in their pollen-filled journey. Skyler Ewing / Pexels

Getting 1,000 bees is like adopting a puppy.

The post 5 ways to keep bees buzzing that don’t require a hive appeared first on Popular Science.

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bees-drinking-nectar-from-feeder
Putting up a bee rest-stop will help them in their pollen-filled journey. Skyler Ewing / Pexels

This story has been updated. It was originally published in June 8, 2021.

Bees are awesome, and they play an important role in making sure we have food on our tables. But you’ve probably heard these incredibly intelligent insects are in trouble. Pesticides are making these buzzers stupid or even killing them, and urban sprawl means bees have to travel farther from their hives to feed.

People have responded to this threat by jumping on the beekeeping bandwagon. The practice of caring and looking after thousands of bees has become popular in recent years, especially in cities, where bee-lovers install hives in their backyards, on their roofs, and even right in their living rooms

[Related: Roads and highways disrupt bee pollination]

But as exciting as beekeeping may be, it is a hobby that requires the same commitment and responsibility as adopting a puppy. And not everyone is suited for it. Don’t be disappointed, though. There are plenty of other things you can do to help bees, and some of them don’t even require you to interact with insects or even leave your chair. 

1. Install a feeder

Bigger cities often mean fewer and smaller patches of green. For people, it means less space to barbecue on the weekends. But for bees and other pollinators, it means they have to fly farther from their nests and hives to get the food they need. And as anyone who has driven down the highway on fumes will tell you, gas stations are crucial. 

Feeders are exactly that. Buy one or make one yourself, fill it with fresh water, put it where pollinators can find it (shady trees are good spots) and you’re set. You can also set up a watering station. Put out a shallow plate with water and add some pebbles to provide a non-slippery surface the insects can stand on. (Bees can’t swim, so if they don’t fall into the water, they will drown.)

Place your feeder or watering station away from high traffic areas and where pollinators can find it (shady trees are good spots). Check the water every day and replace it when it’s stagnant or dirty.

2. Plant a pollinator garden

If a feeder is a gas station for a bee, a pollinator garden is a full rest stop—with bathrooms, a diverse food court, and maybe even a cozy park nearby. 

[Related: Humans need bumble bees—and they are disappearing faster than we thought]

Whether you have a backyard or only a windowsill, you can make pollinators’ lives easier by growing a variety of plants. Which ones you get, however, will depend on where you live. Luckily for you, we have a complete guide on how to start your own pollinator garden. Here, you’ll learn how to make the best out of your space and get a list of exactly what plants to pick up at your local nursery.

3. Volunteer

There are plenty of organizations out there that want you to help them save the bees. Search for “bee conservancy organizations near me” to find the option that suits you best. Most websites have specific pages where you can sign up as a volunteer, and if they don’t, you can always contact them directly and ask if there are volunteering opportunities available.

The good news is you can help the bees even if these black-and-yellow buggers make you nervous. For example, the nonprofit Puget Sound Beekeepers Association in Seattle has jobs that range from beekeeping assistants to content contributors and even honey salespeople.   

As with every volunteer program, make sure you investigate all the information on the organization’s website and contact them to ask about requirements for the position you’re interested in, as well as any other questions. If you can, talk to other volunteers to get a better sense of what they’re doing and if the program fits your abilities and schedule. 

4. Find a mentor

Becoming a beekeeper’s mentee is like babysitting your baby nephew once a week—you have fun, you work hard, and you get to go home free of responsibilities. But above all, you get to learn the ins and outs of beekeeping directly from someone experienced. 

Mentorships are the way most beekeepers learn their trade. But unlike volunteer programs, most organizations don’t have a sign-up sheet or application you can write your name on. Instead, finding a mentor is a much more intuitive process and a lot has to do with the chemistry you have with your would-be mentor. 

[Related: A sting-free guide to becoming a DIY beekeeper]

But before you hit your local beekeeping club in search of a beacon of wisdom, make sure you do your research. It’s unlikely someone will agree to be your mentor if they have to teach you everything from scratch, so your best bet is to hit the internet or your local library and do some reading. There are plenty of resources out there, and you can even find reading lists for beginner beekeepers that will get you started on all the basics. 

You may also want to do some volunteer work before finding a mentor, as it can give you the experience you require to be a good beekeeper’s helper. The blog Beekeeping Like a Girl has some great advice on how to find a mentor, including vetting candidates and setting realistic expectations. 

Remember that everyone was a noob at first, so don’t be afraid to reach out to people at your local beekeeping club and ask questions.  

5. Donate to a bee conservation program

This is definitely the most boring of all your bee-saving options, but that doesn’t make it any less important. 

Every conservancy organization needs resources, and if donating your work and time is not an option for you, sharing your bucks can certainly make a difference. Choosing a local non-governmental organization or program is the best way for your donation to make an impact in your community. Just search the internet for an initiative near you, or consult with your local beekeeping club and ask them how you can make a donation. 

You can also find ways to help national or even international organizations, like the American Beekeeping Federation or Pollinator Partnerships. Most of these big initiatives have pages on their websites where you can make recurring or one-time donations without leaving your seat. 

Correction June 14, 2021: This story stated feeders should be filled with a water and sugar solution. Plain water is better, as added sugar affects the quality of honey.

The post 5 ways to keep bees buzzing that don’t require a hive appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

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The Brood X cicadas are coming, and you should eat them. Here’s how. https://www.popsci.com/diy/cicada-cooking-guide/ Wed, 12 May 2021 12:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=364190
hand holding a cicada against the sky
Look at that tasty little nugget. Henry & Co. / Pexels

It’s a bugtastic culinary experience!

The post The Brood X cicadas are coming, and you should eat them. Here’s how. appeared first on Popular Science.

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hand holding a cicada against the sky
Look at that tasty little nugget. Henry & Co. / Pexels

You’ve probably already heard about the billions of Brood X cicadas that will soon emerge from the ground across the eastern US. Even if you haven’t, you’ll definitely hear these loud bugs trying to find mates. Now hear us out: Eat them.

We’re serious. People who’ve tried them say cicadas are an extremely versatile and tasty ingredient. You can fry them, roast them, pulverize them, or even eat them raw, as if they were oysters. 

If you’re new to entomophagy—also known as eating bugs—you can inconspicuously add chopped-up cicadas to your favorite dish, or grind them and add them to your smoothies for some extra protein. 

There’s a lot to explore when dinner is served right in your backyard. 

Why eat cicadas 

The meat industry is known for being utterly inefficient and harmful to the environment. Raising cattle requires a lot of space, water, and other resources that make this business responsible for at least 20 percent of human-made greenhouse gas emissions.

Finding alternative protein sources is a challenge we need to face as a species, especially in the context of climate change, and insects can help us. Depending on the species, bugs can have up to twice the amount of protein as beef (by weight) and 1.5 times the amount as fish and poultry. Also, they don’t need as much space, food, or water as cattle, making them way more efficient.

[Related: What we know—and don’t know—about Brood X cicadas]

In every sense, insect protein seems to be a better alternative to animal protein. But even though people around the world have been adding bugs to their meals for centuries, there’s still a huge cultural hurdle many of us must overcome before we normalize entomophagy. That’s especially true in western countries where insects are seen as pests, not food.  

How to collect cicadas

These thumb-sized insects will come up for air as soon as ground temperatures reach around 64 degrees Fahrenheit, which is due to happen in mid-May, depending on where you are. The up-to-100-decibel buzzing will follow shortly thereafter, likely lasting through late June. 

During that time, you can roll up your sleeves and pick up some cicadas for a nutritious snack. 

Location, location, location

If you live in one of the 15 states where Brood X will emerge, you’ll probably see these insects flying around anywhere vegetation has found space to grow. But if you’re looking to eat them, you’ll have to be a little more discerning. 

“If I’m walking down Main Street and there’s a bunch of cicadas, I probably won’t feel so good about collecting them there,” says Joseph Yoon, a chef, the founder of Brooklyn Bugs, and an entomophagy advocate. If you’re not careful, you could end up eating pesticides, dirt, small bits of litter, or even someone else’s spit.

The best places to pick up cicadas are more secluded areas that have not been treated with pesticides, fertilizers, or other chemicals. These could include your own backyard or a spot in the countryside you have access to. You don’t need a perfectly organic piece of land, though. Gardening chemicals are not automatically bad, so asking somebody who knows about any such substances in the soil will help you decide if you feel comfortable eating from that area. 

[Related: You should start eating bugs. Here’s how.]

You should also consider that cicadas molt. When they first emerge as nymphs, cicadas are soft and have no exoskeleton. This changes as they climb trees, turn into adults, and shed their casing. This also means that any external part of the cicada that might have been in contact with polluted soil is discarded, minimizing the risk you might ingest something toxic. 

Finally, if you’re thinking about hitting your local park to get dinner, make sure it’s not against the law. In most public green areas throughout the country, you’ll need a permit to harvest, forage, or collect anything from plants to bugs. 

Timing is everything

The different stages of a cicada’s life cycle will determine what type of food you get and how you can prepare it. Think of it as the difference between eating an egg or a chicken thigh. 

If you’re lucky, you might be able to spot some cicadas as they emerge from the ground. But don’t pick them up just yet, says Yoon. 

“If you wait a day or hours after, they’re going to molt. And yum! They’re going to be a delicacy,” he says.

Freshly molted cicadas will be clean, smooth, and soft. At this stage, the earlier you catch them, the better, as they’ll lose muscle mass the older they get. The window of opportunity to get fat, juicy cicadas at this stage is narrow though, so you’ll need to monitor the ground temperature regularly, and observe what these red-eyed bugs are up to. 

If you miss your chance, you can always collect adult cicadas. They’ll be flying around, singing, and calling for mates. It’ll just be a matter of catching them mid-flight or waiting for them to bump into you. 

After they mate, male cicadas will die and fall to the ground. You might think this is the best time to pick them up, as they have already fulfilled their destiny and are literally just lying there, looking like a snack. 

Unfortunately, unless you actually witness a cicada’s last chirp, there’s no way to know how long the bug has been dead, and therefore, how decomposed it is. Just as you would not eat a flattened squirrel off the roadside or a dead deer you found in the woods, it’s a good idea to stick to living insects. 

Gear up

Cicadas are harmless, so there’s no need to cover your face or hands for safety. If you feel uncomfortable handling them with your bare skin, though, latex gloves are a good choice, as you won’t lose any dexterity and will be able to easily pick up your bugs. 

The main risk cicadas pose is to your ears. They’re loud. So loud, in fact, that the sheer volume of their song is comparable to that of a lawn mower. Ear plugs or noise-canceling headphones will help, and will hopefully prevent you from feeling overwhelmed by the swarm of bugs. 

Depending on the time of day you decide to collect cicadas, you may want to have a flashlight or, better yet, a headlamp. Light will be especially handy if you’re digging in the ground for nymphs. 

You should also be aware of other crawlers out there. Tick season seems to have come early in some parts of the east, so make sure to wear your socks over your pants and cover your arms to prevent these bloodsuckers from digging into you. 

Mosquitoes may also be an issue where you live. If you choose to fight them with bug repellent, make sure to wash your hands thoroughly and wear gloves when you hunt your cicadas. You are, after all, handling food. The last thing you want is for any of that chemical bug spray to make it to your plate. 

Whether you’re picking cicadas off tree trunks or using a butterfly net to catch them, you’ll want to stash them in a paper or fabric bag. This will prevent them from suffocating, which causes unnecessary stress and the release of chemicals that may affect their flavor, explains Yoon. 

You’ve got your cicadas. Now what?

This is the hard part. Now that you’ve collected your cicadas, you’ll have to kill them. Just as you would with any other animal, you should respect the life that you’re taking and be as quick and gentle as possible to give the insects a humane death.  

In the field, Yoon suggests bringing a cooler filled with ice to store cicadas. The temperature probably won’t be low enough to kill the insects, but it will numb them enough so you can easily handle them. 

Once you’re home, take them out of the cooler and put them in a row over a baking sheet. Then store them in the freezer for a couple of hours. This, according to Yoon, is one of the best ways to euthanize an insect, and it’s used by cricket farmers all the time. 

[Related: Why aren’t we eating more bugs?]

If you’re wary about having loose cicadas in your freezer, you can put them in a plastic container. Don’t wash them before you do, though. If they move, they will clump up.

An alternative to this is to blanch them as you would a lobster. This means killing your cicadas by submerging them in boiling water for two minutes. After you’re done, place your cicadas in rows on a baking sheet and let them cool down to room temperature.

The upside to boiling is that once your insects are dry, they’ll be good to go, as the heat will have also killed any undesirable bacteria.

Get cookin’ 

From here on out, what you do with your cicadas is up to your imagination. Yoon says the best way to try them is to incorporate them into your favorite food. 

“Sometimes people think they should make a completely new dish using a completely new ingredient. Why not just go for the low-hanging fruit?” he says. Make sure you create a lot of flavor using ingredients you’re already comfortable with. This can make the difference between a dull snack and a meal that will blow your mind.   

If you love lasagna bolognese, for example, chop up your fresh cicadas and make a bolognese sauce with insect protein. If you feel weird about eating insects, you can pluck their wings and legs and chop off their heads for a smoother texture. 

Yoon suggests adding a lot of aromatics, including herbs, onions, garlic, and butter. If you’re using veggies, sweat them in some fat, lower the heat, and add the cicadas at the end. No matter the technique you’re using, high temperatures for long periods of time will give the bugs a bitter burnt-toast flavor. You definitely want to avoid that.  

If you’re not afraid of a little crunch, you can fry your cicadas just as you would fry shrimp. Set up your oil of choice and carefully drop your bugs in for a couple of minutes. Make sure not to overdo it. 

You’ll also need to be careful when you’re roasting them. Put your cicadas on a baking sheet and in the oven at 225 degrees Fahrenheit, for 10 to 15 minutes, Yoon says. When they’re done, get them out and wait until they cool off. You can eat them fresh from the oven as a snack, or you can chop them and integrate them into your favorite dish. You can also grind them and combine them with coarse salt and herbs to make your own spice mix. 

[Related: Cricket-based snacks are surprisingly delicious]

The best part about this technique is that once they’re roasted, your cicadas are shelf-stable. This means you can put them in a jar and store them for more than a year without them going bad. 

Finally, if you prefer to eat insects without noticing you’re eating insects (which is totally OK), you can use a blender to turn your roasted cicadas into protein powder. You can bake with it, add it to soup bases, or even put it in a smoothie for some extra nutrition.  

If you need more inspiration, visit a site like the University of Maryland’s Cicada Crew, which has a lot of resources, including a cookbook. And once you get a taste, you have 13 to 17 years to figure out what you like and plan your next cicada-centric meal. 

The post The Brood X cicadas are coming, and you should eat them. Here’s how. appeared first on Popular Science.

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3 ways to use your hot glue gun for more than just sticking things together https://www.popsci.com/diy/hot-glue-crafts/ Sat, 22 May 2021 19:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=366463
Only good things come out of this gun.
Only good things come out of this gun. zoldatoff/Depositphotos

The cheapest 3D printer you can get.

The post 3 ways to use your hot glue gun for more than just sticking things together appeared first on Popular Science.

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Only good things come out of this gun.
Only good things come out of this gun. zoldatoff/Depositphotos

Summer’s right around the corner, but the heat is already on. From unrelenting sunshine to sizzling grills, feeling hot (and cooling down) are part of the daily grind now. PopSci is here to help you ease into the most scorching season with the latest science, gear, and smart DIY ideas. Welcome to Hot Month.

Don’t let anyone tell you otherwise—hot glue guns are magical. 

Well, not literally. It’s basic science: high temperatures melt plastic, and once the heat is gone, the polymer returns to its previous solid state. This gives you the chance to reshape these plastic sticks into something else, including the bond that keeps two objects together—maybe ribbons and a hair clip, or a rhinestone and, you know, anything.

But using your hot glue gun to craft a Halloween costume once a year just seems like a waste. Here are three other ways you can take advantage of this truly versatile gadget. 

Make everything non-slip

Go to YouTube and you’ll find a dozen videos listing 20-plus uses for your hot glue gun. But most of those tricks can be categorized under “adding more traction to something.” This works because not only the plastic in hot glue is malleable, it’s slightly sticky—exactly what you need when you want to keep things from sliding around.

Make non-slip socks

Placing a few blobs of hot glue on the soles of your socks will help you avoid slipping and falling on hardwood or tile floors. It’s as simple as that.

It should go without saying, but do not try this while wearing your socks. If they’re on your feet, take them off to avoid burning your skin. Then, put a piece of cardboard or parchment paper inside each garment so the hot glue doesn’t go all the way through the fabric. Skip this step and you risk ruining your sock by gluing both sides together.

If blobs are not your thing, you can always go for lines—zig-zags and waves work nicely. If you want to get creative and draw something else, you can do that too. The sky’s the limit. Just don’t put your socks on until the glue is cool and dry.

Make non-slip clothes hangers  

Yes, you can buy velvet-coated hangers, but using your hot glue gun will allow you to upgrade the plastic and wooden hangers you probably already have. 

[Related: Fire-resistant clothing is a hot choice. Here’s how it works.]

Place three to five blobs of hot glue on both ends of a clothes hanger and let them fully dry. You may be able to tell by eye—solid hot glue is opaque—but it’s best to poke the dollops with a toothpick or matchstick to make sure they’re hard and won’t ruin your clothes.

Now you won’t have to look for your silk or linen shirts on the floor of your closet. 

Make a non-slip cutting board

We don’t have to explain why it’s important to have a steady, solid surface for working with a sharp knife. We’ll skip trying to convince you and just go straight to how to make a non-slip cutting board. 

First, get your cutting board and put it on a table with the wrong side up. If your board has a groove along its edges, the wrong side is the one that’s groove-free. If your board is flat on both sides, just pick the one you use the least. 

Heat up your glue gun thoroughly so the polymer is soft and malleable. Drop one large blob onto each corner of your board. Lift the board an inch from the table surface and drop it to settle the blobs. Let them dry completely. 

When they’re solid, flip your board and make sure it’s steady. If it’s not, use the tip of a spoon to remove the irregular glue and start over. Depending on the make of your board, the melted plastic probably won’t survive a lot of dishwashing, so have your hot glue gun close to make repairs. On the other hand, if you want to give your crafty creation a longer life, hand-wash your cutting boards and forgo hot water. 

Use your hot glue gun as a 3D printer

Plastic made its way into mainstream consumer goods in the middle of the 20th century, and it has truly taken over. Because a hot glue stick is mainly just plastic, you can use it to make your own goods. It’s just a matter of letting your creativity flag fly high. 

If you’re just starting to experiment, we’d suggest beginning with something simple like a box. 

Stats

  • Time: 15 to 20 minutes
  • Cost: less than $1
  • Difficulty: easy

Materials

  • 5 or 6 glue sticks (depending on the size of box you’re making)
  • Parchment paper

Tools

Instructions

  1. Use the pencil and ruler to draw your layout on the parchment paper. For a simple open box, this means a square or rectangle with the dimensions you want for the bottom of your box. Then, on each side of that shape, you’ll need to draw rectangles or squares depending on the length and height of your box. 
  • Note: When you’re done, your layout will look like a plus sign. Its arms should all be the same length, and this measurement will determine the depth of your box. If you need a taller one to use as a pen holder, for example, just make the arms longer. 
  1. Heat up your glue gun and trace the outline of your box. Don’t wait too long before you start working—thicker, cooler plastic will be easier to handle. If your gun gets too hot, turn it off and let it cool a bit. When you’re ready, make sure your lines are as uniform as possible. Let it dry completely. 
  1. Fill in all the sides of your box. Here you can be as creative as you want. We went with a simple lattice, but you can do whatever you want. Again, let it dry completely. 
  • Pro tip: If you’re not completely covering all sides with hot glue streaks, make sure any openings are small enough to prevent whatever you plan on storing in the box from falling through. For example, if you’ll be using your box to keep your jewelry when you go to bed, you’ll want small openings so you don’t lose little pieces like rings and earrings. 
  1. Detach the solid plastic from the parchment paper. 
  1. Bend the sides of the box toward the center and press firmly. This will help you keep the shape of your box while you glue the sides. 
  1. Press two contiguous sides together and glue them. Keep pressing for 20 to 30 seconds after you’re finished to make sure they stay together. Repeat this process with the remaining sides. 
  • Pro tip: If you don’t feel like holding your fingers in one spot for that long, you can always use a clothes pin or a heavy-duty clip to keep everything together until the glue is totally dry. 
  1. Fill your new box with whatever you built it to hold.

Use your glue gun to melt crayons

Crayons are just cylinders of colored wax. You know what else is a cylinder that melts from hot temperatures and can take myriad shapes? You guessed it—a glue stick. 

So, instead of feeding your gun a glue stick, you can insert a crayon to use as a wax seal or drip-paint thick textiles. Choose your color, remove the paper wrapping, and melt away. 

Keep in mind that liquid wax is a lot more fluid than melted plastic, so make sure you don’t let your gun get too hot. Otherwise your crayon will drip—and not only from the tip of your glue gun. 

[Related: How to recycle shoes, crayons, toothbrushes, and other random stuff]

When using a small device, make sure you can easily fit the crayon inside. If it’s too thick, you’ll jam the mechanism that pushes the cylinder into the hot tip of the gun, so don’t try to force it. To avoid this, use a pair of scissors or a knife to scrape off the side of the crayon and make it thinner. And do not scrape toward yourself or anyone else—you don’t want to slip and slice anything.

Once the crayon is in the gun, drop some of the hot wax on paper and place a seal while the blob is still soft. Let it dry completely and then remove the seal to reveal the pattern. 

If you’re into dripping as an art technique, you can let your inner Jackson Pollock go wild on some fabric. The cool thing about doing this is that because crayons are wax, melting some onto a textile will make it waterproof. If you needed a sign to give more life to your canvas sneakers, this is it.   

Finally, if you don’t feel like sacrificing an entire crayon, but you have some pieces lying around, you can use those to color your glue. Just insert a piece into the gun barrel, followed by a glue stick. Try breaking the crayon fragment into smaller pieces, and don’t insert them all at once, as the plastic will dilute the wax. When you need to amp up the color again, remove the stick, insert another piece of crayon, and continue conjuring up color. 

Correction May 25, 2021: An earlier version of this story suggested silicone was a major component in household hot glue sticks, but this polymer is more common in industrial hot glue.

The post 3 ways to use your hot glue gun for more than just sticking things together appeared first on Popular Science.

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You should develop your own black-and-white film. Here’s how. https://www.popsci.com/develop-black-and-white-film/ Mon, 07 Jan 2019 21:31:31 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/uncategorized/develop-black-and-white-film/
DIY film developing

Make photos the old-fashioned way, from start to finish.

The post You should develop your own black-and-white film. Here’s how. appeared first on Popular Science.

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DIY film developing

Got a yen for film? Good luck getting those pictures developed. Even as analog photography experiences a serious renaissance period, few locations remain to turn that exposed film into pictures. The good news, however, is that developing film at home is pretty easy and extremely fun. It mixes chemistry, art—and probably ruining at least one of your T-shirts.

Buying the film

For this DIY process, you’ll want to work with black-and-white film. (While you can develop color film at home, this process is much finickier and requires bleach-based chemicals, so it’s a lot less pleasant than the process for developing monochrome images.) Specialty stores may stock the film you want, but the easiest way to shop will be online.

Each roll of 35mm black-and-white film can produce 36 pictures and should run you about $5. There’s a chance you’ll totally ruin at least one roll by accident, so buy a couple at a time.

Kodak

SEE IT

I recommend you start with something classic like the Kodak Tri-X or Ilford HP5. Both brands have been around forever and make it hard to screw up so badly that your pictures are totally ruined. If you want to try a product from another manufacturer, just make sure you get black-and-white film that’s D-76 process, not C-41.

Tools

The bare essentials for film processing will cost roughly $50 to $75. For a higher price, you can get much fancier equipment, but starting with the cheap stuff is a great way to learn. In addition to the links we include here, you can also check Craigslist for old darkroom supplies, which often include developing gear.

Here’s a list of exactly what you need. It’s not a small pile of gear, but that’s part of what makes it fun.

Stan Horaczek

SEE IT

A developing tank and reels

This is where the magic happens. You load your film into one of two plastic reels that sit within the light-tight tank, holding the roll in an evenly-spaced spiral so the developing chemicals can cover its entire surface. The Paterson tank we recommend has enough room for two rolls, but to develop one roll at a time, simply leave the second reel empty.

Dark bag (optional)

You’ll need to load the film onto the reels in pitch black. A dark bag lets you do this without blacking out an entire room in your house.

Bottles for chemical storage

Fancy Datatainer bottles are ideal, but relatively expensive. To start cheap, any clean container will work—just keep it in the dark if it’s translucent.

Thermometer

A basic thermometer is fine for our purposes. You don’t need to go past full-degree accuracy.

Scissors

You’ll need to cut the leader off the film and then later cut the negatives into strips. To do so, you want sharp blades with no nicks, which can mess up the edges of the film.

Can opener (optional)

You can pry the film out of the can with your fingers, but it’s not fun.

Chemicals

In addition to photography gear, you’ll need a stock of chemicals to develop your film. Some DIY guides recommend substituting liquids like coffee and orange juice for the actual chemicals. These ingredients will totally work, but the specialized chemicals will give you much more consistent results—and they’re still pretty cheap.

Photo developing chemicals

Kodak film chemicals

Developer, fixer, and stop are the essential chemicals you’ll need for this process. You can get them in powder form or as pre-mixed liquids.

Developer

You can buy powders or pre-mixed liquids. I learned on Kodak D-76 powder, which is versatile and lasts for a long time.

Stop bath

A single bottle of pre-mixed stop will last you a very long time. You can also use a thorough water rinse if you run out.

Fixer

Kodak Fixer is an old standard, but the Ilford pre-mix will also work.

Photo-Flo (optional)

At the end of the developing process, you can give the film a quick dip in this wetting agent to help prevent streaks or water marks. It comes as a soapy liquid and requires heavy dilution, so it lasts for a long time.

Distilled water (optional)

If you’re buying powdered chemicals, you’ll eventually need to mix them with H2O. Because tap water can leave mineral deposits on your negatives, consider buying a jug or two of the distilled stuff.

Instructions

It can seem intimidating, but developing film is actually a little easier than making chocolate chip cookies. The trickiest part is when you load the film into a light-tight tank, which requires that you work in complete darkness. After that, the rest of the process simply involves adding chemicals to the tank in a certain order, leaving them in for a specific length of time, and then removing them. The process takes a little getting used to, but after five or six developing sessions, you’ll be able to do it in your sleep.

Step 1: Prepare for lights out

You’re going to need complete darkness to load the film into the tank. If you set up your darkroom correctly, it should be extremely hard, if not impossible, to tell whether your eyes are open or closed. I use a bathroom with no windows and block off the seams of the door with tape, but you can also manipulate the film in a dark bag like the one mentioned in the tools list.

Before you hit the switch, arrange the pieces of your tank where you can easily find them without knocking them onto the floor. Once the film is out of its canister, you won’t be able to turn the light back on, and searching around the floor in pitch black darkness isn’t fun.

Once you turn out the lights, sit with your eyes closed for a few minutes before re-opening them into the darkness. You might see dim light sources you couldn’t before your eyes adjusted. If you do, then block off those sources to prevent even faint light from filtering in.

Step 2: Load the film into the tank

Film reel

Film loaded onto a developing reel

One of the trickiest parts of the process is learning how to get the film onto the reel without being able to see it. It’s a good idea to practice loading a ruined roll of film in the light.

When the darkness is complete, pry one end off of the film canister and take out the roll. It will unravel as you do so, which is fine. As long as your fingers are clean, it’s safe to touch the film a little, but try not to handle it too much. Don’t let the actual film drag on the floor, because you can scratch the emulsion and scrape your pictures clean off.

With the film out of the canister, find the leader—the uneven part at the end of the roll of film—and cut it flat across. This snip doesn’t have to be perfect, but make sure you don’t cut too deep and ruin your first picture.

Turn to the tank, slide the film in between the nubs and then rotate the reel back and forth to pull the rest of the film into the spool. This takes some practice. Before you try it in the dark, I recommend sacrificing a single blank roll of film so you can practice loading film in the light. Then you’ll be ready when there are pictures on the line.

Put the reel on the center column, push it into the tank, and then put the funnel cap on. It should click into place when you turn it. This seals the container, making it light tight. At this point, so you can turn on the lights in the room, but first, put the extra cap on just in case you flubbed something with the funnel.

Step 3: Mix the chemicals

Now for the fun part! Be sure to mix the chemicals according to the instructions that come with them. Powdered chemicals really do mix best at the temperatures on their instructions. Use water that’s too cold, and you might end up with chunks of powder floating around in the bottle, which can get stuck to the negatives and ruin them.

To keep your negatives free of mineral deposits, you should mix them with distilled water. You can get away with tap water if need be, but depending on the mineral content of your water, this might leave spots on your film.

Many films include development guides inside the cardboard boxes. If not, you can usually find them by searching for the name of the film and “developing guide.” This will tell you the exact temperature the chemicals need and the length of time you need to keep them in the tank.

For instance, if you’re developing Tri-X 400 (a true classic for its grainy, high-contrast, black-and-white look) and developing with D-76, you’ll have to leave the film in the developer for 6 minutes and 45 seconds at 68 degrees. Dev times are longer at colder temperatures and grow shorter as things heat up.

Step 4: Develop the film

The first chemical you add is the developer, which makes the actual image crystallize on the film. As soon as you pour the developer into the tank, tap the bottom of the tank on the counter a few times. This knocks out air bubbles that may have formed around the film and prevents them from leaving ugly spots on the pictures.

As time passes, you should agitate the tank for roughly 10 seconds every 30 seconds to a minute. Doing it more often will give your pictures more contrast and slightly more grain because fresh chemicals will be touching the film on a more regular basis. Although the image should be on the film at this point, it can still be ruined by light.

Once the time is up, pour the developer back into the bottle, then pour in the stop bath. The time on the stop is much shorter, because it’s simply cancelling out the effects of the residual developer.

When you pour out the stop, it’s time for the fixer. When the fixing time is up, take the negatives out of the tank. If they look too pink or purple, it might mean that you didn’t fix them long enough or that your fixer is losing its potency. Put the negatives back into the tank for extra time.

Rinsing out the fix

Rinsing the fix

Everything gets wet during this process, so wear a crummy t-shirt that you don’t mind ruining.

After the fix, it’s time to wash the negatives. Running tap water (no need for distilled H2O at this point in the process) through the tank for five minutes should do the trick, but I’ve also just filled and emptied the tank a few times while swishing the water around inside. It works out fine—and uses a lot less water.

At this point, you can use a wetting agent like Photo Flo to prevent water spots from appearing on the negatives.

Step 5: Dry the negatives

The last step in the dev process is hanging the negatives up to dry. You can buy special film clips, or just put clothes pins on your shower curtain rings like I do. You should keep wet negatives away from dust and animal hair, as well as fluctuating temperatures.

To prevent the film from curling, take the empty film can you pried open earlier and slide it onto the bottom of the film strip. It’ll add enough weight to keep the film straight. Don’t worry if it looks weird during the drying process—uneven drying can cause negatives to warp and curl in weird ways. Leave the film until it’s bone dry, and it should flatten out.

I store negatives in plastic pages ($8.30 from Amazon) because they’re easy to catalog and look at that way. You can also just roll them up into the canister that the film came in, but that way, you’re more likely to attract dust, scratch the film, and curl your negatives, making them much harder to scan down the line.

Step 6: Scan the images

Scanned negative

Scanned negative

I scanned this negative with an Epson V800, which is an upgraded model that can scan larger negatives and costs around $800.

Once the film is good and dry, you have to get the images off it with a scanner. If you get serious about shooting film, it’s worth investing in something like the Epson V600 or one of the high-end film scanners that cost well into the range of thousands of dollars. But if you’re sick of spending big money on film stuff by now, you can use something like this smartphone film scanner. It won’t get you museum-grade masterpieces, but it will produce files big enough for small prints or social media.

This process is a lot of work, but once you get the hang of it, it goes quickly. With a couple double tanks, I can process two rolls of film in less than half an hour, from turning off the lights to hanging up the negatives to dry. Just make sure to clean up any chemicals that you spill: Even if they look clear when you’re pouring them, they will stain things brown. This is also a really cool excuse to wear a darkroom apron.

See you in the dark!

The post You should develop your own black-and-white film. Here’s how. appeared first on Popular Science.

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Want more comfortable headphones? Try these 5 fixes. https://www.popsci.com/make-headphones-more-comfortable/ Mon, 16 Aug 2021 20:04:54 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/uncategorized/make-headphones-more-comfortable/
a child wearing large comfortable headphones
Cheer up, kid. We have tips on how to make your headphones much more comfortable with replacement ear pads and more. hosein charbaghi/Unsplash

The only pain you feel should be the music tugging at your heartstrings.

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a child wearing large comfortable headphones
Cheer up, kid. We have tips on how to make your headphones much more comfortable with replacement ear pads and more. hosein charbaghi/Unsplash

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This post has been updated. It was originally published on June 8, 2020.

With a good pair of headphones, your music can sound incredible … and your brain can feel like it’s in a trash compactor. No matter where they’re hurting you, you’ll get way more comfortable headphones if you’re willing to mod them a little bit.

Every pair of cans is different, which means there’s no one-size-fits-all solution to the discomfort they cause. So as a first step, inspect your headphones to see if you can figure out where the pain is coming from and why. Maybe the band is digging into your skull, or the clamping force is too tight around your ears. Once you figure out the cause, we have a few potential solutions—but you may have to put on your engineering hat to adapt these fixes to your specific headphones to make them as comfortable as possible.

“Why do my ears get hot?”

over-the-ear headphones with replacement pads
These Superlux HD 681 headphones could use some replacement pads. Photo: Whitson Gordon Whitson Gordon

Many headphones come with plush-but-plasticky fake-leather ear pads, which can make you sweat like a polar bear in Louisiana. The solution is simple: Get softer, more breathable velour (or fake velour) ear pads. Many companies make inexpensive third-party pads for popular headphones, so search around Amazon to find the right pair for to make your model more comfortable.

If you don’t see any pads made for your specific headphones, don’t lose hope. A lot of headphones use cups of similar size, so third-party pads made for one headphone may fit almost perfectly on another, less-popular model. Unfortunately, the only way to know is to try them out—or hope someone else has already done so. Google around for your model of headphones and “velour ear pads” to see what other audio nerds have found. Chances are, you’ll uncover a thread on Head-Fi.org or Reddit’s /r/headphones that has the information you need.

There is one big downside with this mod: More breathable ear pads, by definition, let more air in and out. That’s good for your ears, but it also means more sound will escape through that fabric, too. Your headphones won’t be quite as noise-isolating with this method, so you’ll be able to hear others around you, and they may be able to hear your music. It’ll also alter the sound of your headphones, slightly reducing the bass.

Unfortunately, you can’t change the laws of physics. You have to decide which of these things—comfort versus isolation and bass—matter more to you. On the other hand, if you don’t end up liking the pads, you can always replace the original ones.

“The headband hurts my skull!”

padded band for comfortable headphones
Some companies offer extra padding you can snap on to almost any pair of headphones. Photo: Geekria Geekria

Some headphones pad the band with luscious amounts of memory foam… and others cover the hard plastic in cheap, thin fabric. If your headband feels like it’s pressing right on the peak of your skull, you’ll need to add some extra cushioning.

Depending on your headphones, this can be more difficult than it sounds. This inexpensive, universal padding from Geekria ($9) will fit just about any headband, but it looks like you pulled a sock over your headphones—not exactly fashionable. This pleather snap-on cushion from the same company is twice as expensive ($18), but it looks a bit better and should still fit a lot of headphones. And both are removable, if you decide you don’t like them.

To really go DIY on the headband, though, you can remove whatever cushioning is there and replace it with something completely new. Amazon is full of replacement cushions for popular headphones, and you may be able to use one of them to jerry-rig your own superbly comfortable pair. For example, you could apply this $15 replacement pad for various Bose headphones to a plastic headband with some glue or industrial Velcro. It will likely look a lot better than the universal options, but not every headphone will be so accommodating—so you may need to get a little clever in how you attach it.

If none of those solutions work, you might be able to remove the headband entirely—I replaced the hard, bumpy headband on my AKG Q701 with an old leather belt, and they now feel like a cloud—I can barely tell they’re on my head.

“They make my glasses dig into my head!”

headphones over glasses
The author with his new, glasses-accommodating headphones. Photo: Whitson Gordon Whitson Gordon

You might be wondering how to wear headphones with glasses. No one understands the plight of uncomfortable headphones like someone with glasses. Even if they have relatively light clamping force and soft pads, a large pair of over-the-ear headphones will always press on your frames, making them burrow into your temple. Believe me, I’ve tried many.

If you want the most comfortable over-ear headphones, there’s a solution. I took a hobby knife to my ear pads and sacrificed their structural integrity in the name of comfort. After cutting a path the shape of my frames through the entire ear pad, my good headphones no longer make my glasses feel like a medieval torture device. Cutting into the foam like this will almost certainly make the pads fray after some time, but that’s a small price to pay. And if you’re worried about ruining your headphones’ ear pads, try this hack on some cheap replacement pads first, as discussed in the first section of this article.

“The headphones clamp too hard!”

stretching headphones out over books
Make a DIY stretching rack for your too-tight headphones. Photo: Whitson Gordon Whitson Gordon

You want your headphones to stay on your skull, not slide around while you bob your head to the music. But when they clamp too hard, it can be painful. Thankfully, the solution is pretty easy: Stretch them out.

[Related: The best wireless earbuds to get wrapped up in music]

Grab some books and stack them side-by-side until they’re about the width of your head, or a tad wider. Then stick your headphones over this improvised stretcher whenever you aren’t using them. After a few days, they should start feeling a little more comfortable. Just be careful not to stretch them out too much—better to start small and work your way up.

If your headphones have metal bands, like the Sony headphones shown above, you can also bend them by hand as shown in this YouTube video. Be very careful not to bend them too far, or you may not be able to get them back to their normal shape.

“The drivers press against my ears!”

thicker padding on headphones
Sony’s MDR-7506 pictured with the pads made thicker by some backer rod. Photo: Whitson Gordon Whitson Gordon

What if the clamping force isn’t too bad, but the cups are too shallow, causing the driver to actually press against your ears? (This can also happen if your ears stick out like mine do.) In this case, you can deepen the ear cups, but be aware that this fix will probably alter the sound slightly.

To make your headphones more comfortable, take some foam or other padding and stuff it under the ear pad, all the way around. This should increase the thickness of the pad, creating more space inside the cup for your ears. I used backer rod, though you could also try something a little more plush, such as cotton balls.

In my experience, this makes the sound a touch bassier and muddier, but different types of padding will produce different results. You might even want to test out a few different materials to find the right balance of comfort and sound for you. Once you do, you’ll wonder how you went so long without it.

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A cheap set of LEDs is the best way to upgrade your fancy new TV https://www.popsci.com/better-tv-bias-lighting/ Wed, 05 Dec 2018 23:42:18 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/uncategorized/better-tv-bias-lighting/
Bias lighting

Bias lighting will enhance the picture of your screen in a dark room.

The post A cheap set of LEDs is the best way to upgrade your fancy new TV appeared first on Popular Science.

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Bias lighting

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People buy a lot of TVs this time of year. In 2016, Target sold more than 3,200 TVs per minute during its Black Friday sale. And as prices shrink and screen sizes grow, the temptation to trick out your home theater area increases.

While that shiny new TV is likely an upgrade from your old set, it’s not perfect out of the box. In fact, there are lots of steps you can take to ensure the picture looks as good as possible. But one hack involves more than digging into the menus—your new TV could benefit from light shining on the wall behind the display. This is called bias lighting and luckily, it won’t cost you very much money.

Coming out of the dark

It’s a logical choice to turn down the lights when you’re about to watch the latest Fast and Furious flick on your new display. After all, you don’t want reflections from your lamps interfering with Vin Diesel’s meticulous tank tops, and you really want the color and contrast to pop in Jason Statham’s steely eyes.

But it turns out there’s a downside to viewing a screen in a totally dark environment and it comes from the natural limitations of your eyeballs and your brain.

The American Association of Ophthalmologists suggests that with a screen that’s much brighter than its surroundings, your eyes need to work harder in order to see. Your eyes adjust to let in more or less light depending on the brightness of a scene, and movies or TV that constantly vary in brightness cause the eye to have work overtime.

Beyond the long-term effects, shifts from dark to bright can also physically hurt as your eyes try to rapidly adjust to a quick jump cut from dark to light. So, raising the ambient light around the screen allows your eyes to establish a more reasonable baseline that doesn’t require as much adjustment.

By adding some ambient light, you’re also helping your eyes see the sharpest possible picture they can produce. “In a darkened room, your pupil is larger than average, and that will exacerbate any optical aberrations in your vision,” says Andrew Iwach, a clinical spokesperson for the American Academy of Ophthalmology. “If your prescription isn’t correct or you have undiagnosed eye problems, it can appear even more pronounced.”

Pain don’t hurt

For some viewers, it might be worth some eye strain to get what they believe to be the best possible picture, but it turns out that watching a black wall with a glowing rectangle on it actually cuts into your overall image quality, thanks to perceived contrast.

TVs have come a long way in recent years when it comes to recreating the color black. Older sets had less efficient backlight that couldn’t produce dark tones as deep as modern models. Because the lights couldn’t always turn all the way off, the blacks on the screen were more like grays, and that takes some of the impact out of dark objects on screen like Batman’s suit or Batman’s car (and other non-Batman related things).

Modern OLED TVs use individual pixels that provide their own backlight and those can turn totally off, which makes their black levels more appealing and helps boost the overall contrast of the screen. However, even those pixels have a tough time looking truly black when they’re competing with a pitch dark room.

Adding a relatively dim light that directly surrounds the screen makes the dark areas of the display look blacker instead of washed out compared to the inky tones in the room. If you keep the light dim enough, it will also give the TV’s bright whites a chance to literally shine without scorching your wide-open eyeballs.

Philips ambilight
Philips uses built-in lights on some of its TVs to match the content on screen. Philips

What kind of light should you get?

Just about everything associated with high-end home theater tech is expensive, but getting started with bias lighting is a surprisingly affordable venture, especially compared to how much it can improve the perceived picture of your pricy new television. And while you can hop over to Amazon and pick out the cheapest set of behind-the-screen LEDs, there are some things that should inform your purchase.

Color

Light color is an essential piece of the bias lighting purchasing decision. The most common approach is to go for bulbs that are color balanced to look like natural daylight. This means something that’s in the 6500K range of color temperature. Your brain and eyes perceive this as a neutral color so it won’t make your TV look warm or cool by comparison. To some people, this will look too “cool” or blue, especially if the typical lighting in the room uses traditional light bulbs which typically have a much “warmer” light.

If you’re not sure what color light will work for your preferences, you can opt for something that has variable color balance. It might make your super-high-end home theater nerd friend (the one who is always trying to explain why $300 HDMI cables make sense) cringe, but your overall enjoyment is the goal here.

There are other options out there that go beyond simple bias lighting, like the Ambilight TVs from Philips, which actually try to mimic the overall color on the screen and extend it out beyond the borders of the screen itself. This used to make more sense when regular TVs weren’t the size of small mattresses. If you’re just starting out with bias lighting, going with a simple, neutral light is a better—and much cheaper—bet.

Bias Lighting

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Brightness

While brightness is typically a desirable trait in a TV, you can’t simply crank that setting and hope to get the best out of your picture. In fact, there are designated brightness standards at which content is meant to be watched. There’s a rule of thumb that traces all the way back to the days of LaserDiscs that says the bias lighting around your display shouldn’t exceed 10 percent of the brightness of your display’s maximum setting.

For HDR sets, the Image parameter values for high dynamic range television for use in production and international programme exchange standard says the brightness of the bias lighting at the edge of the screen should only be roughly 5 nits. That’s hard to visualize, however, so you can use something like the Spears and Munsil HD Benchmark Blu-Ray disc, which displays various test patterns for visually calibrating your TV. One test pattern contains a dimly lit patch that indicates the ideal brightness for your bias lighting. You can match the two with your eyeballs.

Related: Best LED lights for your TV

Price

You can spend hundreds of dollars on special lighting for the back of your TV, but unless you’re going really overboard, that’s unnecessary—at least to start. There are multiple options with great reviews on Amazon for under $30.

If you want to step up slightly in quality, you can go with a kit. Kits range from $30 up over $100 depending on the size you need and the options you want, but they’re very well-regarded, even with high-end publications and installers.

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5 great spots for LED strip lights around your home https://www.popsci.com/story/diy/use-led-strip-lights-mood/ Mon, 03 May 2021 15:31:11 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/story/?p=362695
LED strip lights behind a computer desk, adding a purple glow to the room.
A purple glow (or any other color) can really spice up a room. Alexandru Acea/Unsplash

Get the vibe you want.

The post 5 great spots for LED strip lights around your home appeared first on Popular Science.

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LED strip lights behind a computer desk, adding a purple glow to the room.
A purple glow (or any other color) can really spice up a room. Alexandru Acea/Unsplash

Lighting affects us both physiologically and psychologically. We may take it for granted at times, but it’s all around us. Stores, workplaces, restaurants, and every flick of a light switch in our own homes all bathe us in a glow that can change our mood.

While we have limited control over the light design we encounter while out and about, we can match the lighting in our homes to the rhythm of our days, providing soothing calm when it’s nighttime, or an energy boost when we need it.

In a 2015 study conducted at a Netherlands elderly care center, researchers found accent lighting could help cheer patients up or reduce anxiety. Brighter lights with cool blue accents had an uplifting effect, while dimmer lights with orange hues in the same room created a cozy, calming ambiance.

If you’re looking for your next DIY project, search no more—enhance your space with mood lighting for an aesthetic upgrade that can also improve your mood, sleep, and productivity.

Customize your home with LED lighting

You’ve likely noticed colorful mood lighting on Twitch streams, in showroom kitchens, and at museums. It’s fairly easy to recreate these same emotion-altering effects at home with the help of LED lights, which also happen to be what the pros use.

Light-emitting diodes (the words behind the LED acronym) are not only more energy-efficient and longer-lasting than incandescent bulbs, they’re more versatile, too.

[Related: There’s a lot to learn about how blue light affects our eyes]

Easy-to-use rolls of LED strip lighting open up a multitude of mood lighting options for the home DIYer, with RGB LED strip lighting adding even more customization potential. LEDs produce light when an electric current passes through a microchip (instead of heating a metal filament), and the RGB version mixes red, blue, and green chips to produce light in a wide range of colors.

To level up your light design, try installing LED strips in these five places around your home.

1. Under cabinets

As the name implies, under-cabinet lighting illuminates areas underneath your cabinetry. It’s most often used under a kitchen’s upper cabinets, and is partly responsible for making you swoon over showroom kitchens. 

Lighting the underside of a cabinet can create a better-lit workspace, whether that’s a cutting board on your kitchen counter or a notepad on the alcove desk you use to work from home. 

This task lighting will prevent you from straining your eyes, and these accent lights can also illuminate the space without you having to flick on brighter overhead bulbs when it’s time to wind down. Good for your sleep, and energy-saving at the same time.

2. Along toe kicks

We’d all be hunched over floor-mounted cabinets if not for that little bit of kick space providing room for your toes. 

Using LED strips under your lower cabinets will illuminate that foot-friendly area and give your kitchen a nice glow. Plus, these lights will help you avoid stubbing your toes during a midnight trip to the fridge.

Try using RGB LEDs for toe kicks that shine with vibrant color. Set the lights to a red hue and skip feeling your way around the bathroom, eyes closed, mummy arms outstretched, in an attempt to stop yourself from fully waking up. 

3. Under shelves

Lighting the underside of your shelves can spotlight figurine collections, books, and other knickknacks that make your home yours.

Shelves may also cast a shadow on your alcove workspace or standard desk, so light them up just as you would wall-mounted cabinets. The same goes for kitchens with open shelves instead of cabinetry.

[Related: Stop blaming blue light for all your problems]

Laundry rooms, which tend to be in dark closets, garages, or basements are a great spot for shelf-mounted LEDs. If you have a shelf over your washer and dryer, try lighting the underside for better sorting and detergent pouring. If they’re front-loading stackables in a closet, just place the strip lighting on the ceiling like you would under a shelf.

4. Under the bed 

Placing lights under a bed can provide a comforting night light in a kid’s room. In your own bedroom, it can create a cozy ambiance if you use amber hues or other warm tones. If your home organization projects are still a work in progress, under-bed accent lights can also help the room feel more put-together than it actually is. 

Using color-changing LED light strips gives you the opportunity to create a lounge feel with purples, greens, or any color you can create.

As in other lighting locations, RGB accent lights will give you options to switch up your lighting come evening by adjusting brightness and color. 

5. Behind computer and TV screens 

Bias lighting on the back of your computer or television screen can help relieve eye strain while simultaneously making images more clear. You can easily achieve this glowing effect by placing a strip of LED lights on the top, bottom, and down both sides of the screen.

For gaming or working at night, you might want to try RGB LED strips to change up the color for your desired vibe. Go for pure white if you’re a creative, though—other hues could affect your ability to accurately perceive colors. 

[Related: A cheap set of LEDs is the best way to upgrade your fancy new TV]

It’s tempting to immediately run out for some LED strip lighting, but there are a few things to consider before you start filling your shopping cart.

Decisions to make before you buy

First, figure out if you want plain white LEDs, RGB strips (for color), or RGBW lights (for both color and clean white light), and choose your desired brightness. Pro tip: RGB lights can produce white, but only by turning all three colors up to their brightest setting. While this is a close approximation, it’s not the same. 

Think about how you want your lights to look. Depending on the features in the roll you’re buying, the colors may change by the section, or the whole strip may have to be set to the same color. Like holiday lights, some will let you program motion while others remain static. 

As the price range varies, so does the manner in which you can control your lighting. At the budget-friendly end, most light strips are programmed via remote control. For a few more customization options, such as brightness, you might want app-controlled lights. You’ll need Bluetooth for most, or you can use Wi-Fi and integrate them with a smart home device like Amazon Alexa

You’ll also need some supplies in addition to your lights. To connect your LED strips without soldering, you’ll need solderless clamps, or connectors. These can join two strips or connect one strip to wiring. This wiring, or low voltage cable, will in turn connect strips to your 120-volt AC power supply, which converts to 12-volt DC power. To diffuse your light, you can pick up LED light strip channels. 

Make sure to measure how long your run of lights needs to be, too, so the rolls of strip lighting you buy don’t fall short or leave you with too much left over. Some people find it helpful to draw a diagram that maps out their lights, connection points, power supply, and outlets.

If the installation step makes you a little nervous, try checking out the websites of LED lighting suppliers. They usually have a section on their website dedicated to detailed tutorials. 

With these tips in mind, you’re well on your way to an elevated space and mood.

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Simple tools for creating stop-motion movies on your phone https://www.popsci.com/diy/stop-motion-video-on-phone/ Tue, 08 Mar 2022 19:07:52 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=429353
A person holding a phone horizontally and filming a video.
Get creative with your phone and a stop-motion movie app. Zach Ramelan / Unsplash

Embrace your inner movie-maker.

The post Simple tools for creating stop-motion movies on your phone appeared first on Popular Science.

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A person holding a phone horizontally and filming a video.
Get creative with your phone and a stop-motion movie app. Zach Ramelan / Unsplash

Stop-motion is an animation technique with a storied history that may stretch back as far as the 19th century and has made its mark in more recent decades with franchises like Wallace and Gromit. If you’ve ever felt inspired to make your own film in this style, all you need is your phone.

As with the other tricks your phone can do—from map navigation to fitness tracking—you’ll first need to find the right app. Then you can think about building a cast of characters, setting the stage, and working on the story you’d like to tell.

Choose your app

The most basic form of stop-motion animation you can create with you phone involves taking one photograph after another, then stitching them together with a movie-making app like iMovie (free for iOS) or Splice (free for iOS and Android, with a $3 premium version that gives you more samples and other features).

Beyond that, if your plans aren’t too ambitious, numerous apps will pack individual images together and produce a GIF for you—you can try ImgPlay GIF Maker (free for iOS or $3 to remove the watermark and ads) or GIF Maker (free for Android or $3 for the premium version with all available features).

Using Stop Motion Maker to see a previous video frame along with the current one, a technique known as onion skinning.
Apps like Stop Motion Maker let you see the previous frame while you work on the next. Stop Motion Maker

Opt for a more dedicated tool, and you will be able to take advantage of features such as image overlays that will give you an idea of what the previous frame looked like while you’re setting up a new one (technically known as onion skinning). The best apps—including the one we’ve featured below, Stop Motion Studio, give you composition guides for getting everything positioned, as well as options to loop groups of frames.

You may also want to check out Stop Motion Maker for Android and iOS, which has an easy learning curve and extras like video filters. It’s free to use but you’ll need to pay $10 a month to remove the watermarks and ads and get its full set of features. There’s also plenty to explore in I Can Animate ($3 for Android and iOS), including easy frame manipulation and adjustments.

Using Stop Motion Studio

Because we cannot cover the ins and outs of every stop-motion editing app out there, we chose one of the best of the bunch in Stop Motion Studio after spending some time with several. Our advice will be specific to this app, but general enough that you should be able to extrapolate it into whatever program you choose. 

Stop Motion Studio is available for Android and iOS, so you can use it on your phone, but it also has apps for Windows and macOS if you want to switch to a computer for editing. All your projects will seamlessly sync between your devices.

[Related: These free video editing tools are so simple, anyone can use them]

You use the software for free, but you can spend $5 to upgrade and access additional features. The full details are inside the app, but the extras include sound and video effects, the ability to replace backgrounds (a green screen effect), and support for 4K resolution output.

The user interface for Stop Motion Studio on a smartphone.
Stop Motion Studio supports “onion skinning,” a term for keeping the previous frame partially visible. David Nield

To get started with Stop Motion Studio, tap the New Movie button that appears on the opening screen (you can also check out a sample project called Big Fish). Once you’ve created a new project, you’re ready to frame your first shot: Get it in view of your phone’s camera, then click the camera icon in the top right corner.

This is where the main shooting happens: Use the red button (on the right) to capture a frame. Also on the right are buttons for setting a timer (the clock icon), seeing what you’ve captured so far (the play icon), and adjusting settings such as zoom and white balance (the sliders icon).

On the left side of the screen, drag the slider up or down to bring the previous frame gradually into view—this can really help you position each frame. It’s important to make sure that you keep your camera steady and fixed in position, otherwise framing of the final video will move around a lot.

You can quit out of the shooting interface at any time by tapping the back arrow (top right). This will take you back to the timeline view, where you can scroll through all the frames you’ve captured so far. Tap on any frame to bring up a variety of options, including those for copying and deleting individual frames.

The editing interface for Stop Motion Studio on a smartphone.
You can duplicate, erase, and otherwise edit frames in Stop Motion Studio with just a tap. David Nield

To the left of the timeline screen are buttons for recording your own audio (that’s the microphone button) and dropping extra elements such as title cards and video clips into the project (that’s the plus button). You won’t be able to add titles without buying the Pro version, but you could just make your own and photograph them.

Tap the cog icon (bottom left) to set the project options, including its aspect ratio, speed, and output resolution. If you get stuck at any point, tap the question mark icon on the right to bring up an overlay showing what all of the buttons do. Just above that is a handy undo button, for reversing your most recent change. When you’re all done, go back to the opening screen and long press your project’s thumbnail to start the export process to finish your masterpiece.

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2 ways to rescue cracked wooden furniture https://www.popsci.com/diy/how-to-fix-cracked-wood/ Sun, 20 Feb 2022 19:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=426395
A cracked wooden table at a restaurant, with a glass of white wine and a white plate with salmon and greens on it.
A cracked table may eventually fall apart, but you can stash the fix underneath if you want to keep the rustic aesthetic. Louis Hansel / Unsplash

We recommend a bow tie. Not to wear, but you can put one on if you want to.

The post 2 ways to rescue cracked wooden furniture appeared first on Popular Science.

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A cracked wooden table at a restaurant, with a glass of white wine and a white plate with salmon and greens on it.
A cracked table may eventually fall apart, but you can stash the fix underneath if you want to keep the rustic aesthetic. Louis Hansel / Unsplash

When wood dries, it shrinks, and when it shrinks, it can split. The unfortunate reality is that if you work with wood, you’ll eventually have to deal with cracks. Small amounts of cracking can be ignored and add to the charm of the piece—these can often be filled in with wood putty. Bigger ones, though, particularly those at the edge of the wood, can be ugly and compromise the integrity of your project.

One common method for repairing larger cracks is to simply cut them out of your piece and glue the wood back together. This makes the repair all but invisible. Another method, insetting something called a bow tie into your furniture, can turn a split into an aesthetic accent, and highlight the natural beauty of the wood. 

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a face mask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

The cut-and-glue method

Stats

  • Time: less than 1 hour (not including drying time)
  • Material cost: $5 to $10
  • Difficulty: Easy

Tools

Materials

Instructions

This is the fastest and most straightforward way to repair thin cracks in wood. All you have to do is cut directly into and along the split with a table saw or circular saw, and then continue the cut all the way to the other side of the piece. Take more than one pass if the break is wider than your blade. Once the crack is gone, glue the seam back together using clamps to apply even pressure, and your furniture should look as good as new.

[Related: How to tune up your table saw]

However, there are a few drawbacks. First, if the crack is particularly wide, you’ll have to cut out a significant amount of material. This can reduce the width of, say, a tabletop, making it too small to fit atop its legs. A quarter of an inch can make a big difference. So this may not be an option for larger repairs.

Cutting out a section of wood can also ruin the grain pattern. If your furniture is made from a single slab or has a carefully designed grain alignment, removing an eighth or quarter of an inch can noticeably interrupt that aesthetic. 

And finally, simply cutting out the crack does nothing to prevent future splitting.

Bow ties for the win

A finished piece of wood with two bow tie repairs in place to fix a crack.
A bow tie is a nice way to fancy-up a cracked piece of wood. Jean Levasseur

If you’re dealing with a particularly large crack, or you like a rustic look, consider repairing it with a bow tie. These are pieces wood cut in the shape of, well, a bow tie, that are set into the damaged wood perpendicular to a crack. Because they’re narrow in the middle and wide at the ends, they act as wedges to hold the wood in place and keep it from splitting further. While not the simplest woodworking project, they’re doable for anyone with patience and the ability to take careful measurements.

Stats

  • Time: 1 to 2 hours (not including drying time)
  • Material Cost: $10 to $50
  • Difficulty: Moderate

Tools

Materials

Instructions

1. Measure how large to make your bow ties. There are two elements that determine bow tie size: function and aesthetics. Each tie should be at least a third as thick as the piece of wood you’re repairing, and needs to extend lengthwise beyond the area you’re repairing. Look for microfractures alongside the primary crack and cut your bow tie to extend a half-inch or so past that. 

Aesthetics are much harder to decide on. You’ll have to decide what kind of effect you want your bow tie to have. Even if the crack is small, a similarly small bow tie might look silly if you’re repairing a large coffee table. If the crack is long, you might want to use multiple bow ties of different sizes. One way to test the aesthetics is to cut out sample ties from pieces of paper. Lay these on your furniture to try out different looks. When you find one that works, use that paper as a template. 

I typically create bow ties using an approximately 8-degree angle, for the simple reason that’s the angle of the dovetail jig I use as a cutting guide. But as long as the center of the bow tie is narrow and the ends are wide, the angle doesn’t matter too much. In fact, as long the center is narrow and the ends are wide, you can theoretically use any shape you want. I have dreams of someday repairing cracks in wood with a treble clef shape.

  • Pro tip: If you don’t like the look of bow ties, you can install them on the bottom of your piece so you can’t see them.

2. Cut out the bow ties. The fastest and easiest way to cut a bow tie is with a band saw, but you can use any kind of saw you’re comfortable with. I typically secure my bow tie wood in a vice and cut with a Japanese pull saw. This allows me to use my dovetail jig to create uniform angles, and I don’t entirely trust myself when cutting small pieces on my band saw. Always work within your own comfort level around power tools, even if it takes a bit longer.

While cutting, make sure that the grain of the bow tie’s wood is parallel to its long side, not across its width. This will create a stronger wedge. 

Once you’ve cut your bow ties, chisel off or sand down any imperfections so all the sides and edges are smooth. Burrs, overhangs, and cracks will make it hard to fit into your inlay hole later. 

3. Trace your bow tie onto the cracked wood. This is the most important step to get right. I use double-sided tape to secure the bow tie in place with the narrow center on the main crack. You can also use CA (cyanoacrylate) glue and painter’s tape, hot glue, or even clamps. Whatever method you choose, don’t let the bow tie move while you’re tracing. Otherwise you could make the hole too big, which will weaken the inlay and—worse—look bad.

[Related: Get your scratched wooden cutting board looking bright and new]

If you have a sharp marking knife, use it to trace. If you don’t have one, I recommend picking one up. These invaluable tools create super-accurate cut lines, and provide a grove for your chisels to rest in when you hog out the inlay wood later. Alternatively, use a very, very sharp pencil. 

4. Hog out most of the wood for the inlay. With your hole marked, remove all of the interior wood to a depth just less than the thickness of your bow tie. The best tool for this is a palm router with a straight bit. Set the bit depth and route out the hole. When routing, stay about a sixteenth of an inch inside of your line. 

If you don’t have a palm router, use a power drill with a ⅜-inch or larger bit, depending on the size of your hole. Put a piece of tape around the bit as a depth gauge, and drill as many holes as you can inside your bow tie outline, again not actually touching the marks. Then come back with a chisel to remove the remaining wood and flatten the bottom of your hole.

You can also just use a chisel and mallet to remove the wood. This is time-consuming and labor-intensive, but it will get the job done. 

5. Chisel the inlay hole to close to its final size. With the majority of your inlay hole dug out, cut to the line. Use a sharp chisel and a mallet for this. I typically use a half- or three-quarter-inch chisel, but use what you have, provided that it fits in the hole. 

If you used a marking knife to trace your bow tie in Step 3, set the tip of the chisel into the groove, making sure it’s as close to straight up and down as you can get it. Then either hammer or push the chisel through the wood. Move the chisel over a bit and repeat, until you have cut to the line all the way around. 

If you used a pencil to trace, line the tip of the chisel up on the pencil line as best you can and start cutting, being careful not to let your chisel slip or twist off of the line. 

6. Test-fit the bow tie, then chisel and sand it as needed. If you were extremely precise with your tracing and cutting, your bow tie should fit tight inside the hole. However, chances are that you’ll need to adjust. Mark where it feels like the bow tie is getting hung up in the hole, and then either chisel the hole wider or sand the bow tie down, depending on which one seems to be uneven. 

When test-fitting, don’t try to force the bow tie into the hole, or you may not be able to get it out (ask me how I know). It should be a tight fit but not get snagged in any one particular area. Also, don’t take too much off at a time—as with most woodworking, it’s better to take off too little than too much. 

7. Glue the bow tie in place. When the bow tie fits in its hole, slather glue onto the bottom and sides of both. Then press the bow tie home, using a rubber mallet.

8. Plane and sand the bow tie. Using a block plane, shave the bow tie nearly flush, and then finish with an orbital sander. Try to sand while the glue is still wet, as the sawdust will mix with the glue, turning it the same color as the bow tie wood. This can hide the tiny gaps and imprecisions between the bow tie and the tabletop. 

If you don’t have a block plane, or the bow tie is only barely above the tabletop, you can just sand, though it will take a bit longer. 

9. (Optional) Fill the crack with epoxy. If you want a solid block of wood again, fill the crack with epoxy. However, this isn’t strictly necessary—some people like the look of an open split. 

Typically, the epoxy pouring process goes like this: tape off the bottom and edge of the crack, mix your epoxy based on the manufacturer’s instructions, and pour it in, using a heat gun or small torch to pop the bubbles that rise to the surface. You may have to let the epoxy dry and then re-pour depending on the size of the crack. As always, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for your specific product.

Once everything is dry, you’re done, and you can sit back and enjoy the new look of your bow tie furniture.

The post 2 ways to rescue cracked wooden furniture appeared first on Popular Science.

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Teach your kids how to play chess—even if you don’t know how to https://www.popsci.com/diy/how-to-teach-kids-to-play-chess/ Thu, 03 Mar 2022 19:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=428257
old woman and girl play chess inside the house
Learning to play chess has a lot of cognitive benefits, but the biggest of all is just having fun. Alex Green / Pexels

These are our favorite opening moves.

The post Teach your kids how to play chess—even if you don’t know how to appeared first on Popular Science.

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old woman and girl play chess inside the house
Learning to play chess has a lot of cognitive benefits, but the biggest of all is just having fun. Alex Green / Pexels

Chess is one of the most popular board games of all time. Whether you agree or not, it is known as a game for intellectuals, but with some practice and study, anyone can play it—even young kids. 

You wouldn’t know it from my rating, but I’ve been playing chess for 30 years, and I’ve been passing on my love for the game to my kids since they were four. They took to it very quickly, and two years later, they can play semi-competent games against me, one another, and online AI programs. 

Studies have found chess can help boys and girls improve academic performance, particularly in reading and math. The game also can teach kids other useful life skills, like critical thinking, resilience, perseverance, risk analysis, independence, and how to own up to and learn from their mistakes, says Mike Klein, International Chess Federation Master, and Chief Chess Officer for educational chess learning website ChessKid.com

But beyond that, small kids should learn how to play chess because it’s fun.  

There are a number of tools and programs on- and offline to help children of almost any age learn how to play chess. And if you don’t know how to play either, any of these resources will help you learn right alongside them. 

Learn the basics with StoryTime Chess

StoryTime Chess is a child-focused full game set that teaches younguns piece movement and basic strategy. It comes with an accompanying storybook that explains chess concepts using friendly tales, colorful characters, and easy-to-remember mnemonics. (I can’t move a knight anymore without saying “gallop, gallop, step to the side”, because it’s such a perfect description.) Children can follow the storyline and engage in activities so they feel comfortable moving pieces on the board. There are even live courses you can sign your children up for further instruction. 

[Related: Use your phone to master the game of chess]

Once your kids have a basic understanding of the game on the starter board, you can introduce the Strategy Storybook, which features another batch of stories, this time focused on openings, pawn play, learning how to make plans, and understanding your opponent’s. This second level also includes more exercises and activities to help reinforce each concept.  

After two years of StoryTime Chess, my kids are starting to understand opening strategy, the math behind trading pieces, and keeping pieces both mobile and protected. They also regularly request StoryTime Chess chapters at bedtime, reinforcing the lessons even when they’re not actually playing.  

StoryTime Chess is for kids three years old and up, and it starts at $49.99. 

Expand their skills on ChessKid.com

ChessKid.com is an online chess platform designed specifically for children and has an entire curriculum especially designed for educators and chess coaches. The goal of this site is to make teaching and learning chess easy so it can be ubiquitous in elementary school classrooms.

On the website or app, kids can play each other online, try their skills against leveled AI bots, or practice using one of the many learning tools available, no matter how much or how little they know about the game. The site also features video lessons for all levels, follow-up exercises to reinforce concepts, tens of thousands of chess puzzles, and analysis boards for kids to assess their own games and identify areas for improvement. 

Letting the little ones interact with online platforms can be scary for a parent, but Klein says safety is priority one, two, and three at ChessKid.com. Personal information is completely private, usernames are either randomized or approved by the site’s team to ensure they contain no objectionable content, and chat features are restricted so kids can’t engage in toxic or unsafe behavior. In addition, parents, coaches, and teachers can also link their own accounts to the kids’ so that they can keep track of what they’re doing online, and even play against them.  

Basic accounts with access to limited content are free, but for a monthly or annual subscription, your child can unlock the site’s entire educational library. 

So far, my kids have been just fine with the free accounts on the site—it lets them solve puzzles, practice against leveled bots, and play games against real kids at their same skill level, which is what they’re most excited about. After each game, we sit down, review the game, and talk about what they did well and what they can learn and improve for next time. 

ChessKid.com is available on your browser and it’s free to download for iOS and Android. Annual subscriptions start at $49.99.

Practice with Mom and Dad

For my kids, there’s nothing better than playing a game of chess against Dad. They can’t beat me yet, but I’m sure it won’t be long until that’s no longer the case. In the meantime, I struggle with finding a way of playing them and teaching them lessons, while at the same time avoiding throwing the game and destroying their love for chess.

Rather than focusing on winning, Klein recommends helping your kids aim for small, achievable goals each game. For example, my kids’ objective might be getting all of their knights and bishops out of their starting square in the first eight to 10 moves, or maybe only survive 20 moves while playing against me at my hardest. Setting these milestones can help them understand that chess should be more about the process than the actual outcome.  

Another tactic is to spend time practicing specific parts of the game, rather than playing full matches. These days, for example, we’re learning checkmating patterns—I’ll set myself up with just a king, give one of my boys two rooks, and have them work on the ladder checkmate

Later, when we get into a full game, I’ll focus on putting myself or them into one of the scenarios we’ve practiced, which not only gives them the opportunity to execute the moves but also to learn how to recognize patterns when they appear in-game. 

Explore the world of local chess clubs

Online chess is a great way to practice but to get the full experience, you need to play over the board, looking your opponent in the eye. As one of the most popular games in the world, you will most likely not have a hard time finding a chess club near you. 

In the United States, the US Chess Federation is the governing body that rates players, but Klein recommends starting your in-person chess journey at a more local level. Most states have a chess organization that lists all of the city and regional clubs (many of which welcome kids), so it’s a good idea to check those out first. 

[Related: Artificial intelligence is taking computer chess beyond brute force]

In addition to the in-person play and coaching available at these local clubs, Klein says that another major benefit is that they’ll help you navigate the chess world. If your kids are interested in taking their skills further, a chess club can provide guidance on which coaches are best for your child’s age and level, how they can start taking the game more seriously, and what tournaments are appropriate for them. 

Ultimately, finding a good local club can be a great way to level up, but it can also take what is only a fun hobby and turn it into an entire community for you and your kids. 

The post Teach your kids how to play chess—even if you don’t know how to appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

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How to build the best cooking fire right on the ground https://www.popsci.com/diy/how-to-build-cooking-fire/ Wed, 26 May 2021 19:57:44 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=367798
An iron pot on a spit above a cooking fire.
Although dancing flames aren't great for grilling, they will heat water well. Alezandro/Depositphotos

It's all about airflow and control.

The post How to build the best cooking fire right on the ground appeared first on Popular Science.

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An iron pot on a spit above a cooking fire.
Although dancing flames aren't great for grilling, they will heat water well. Alezandro/Depositphotos

Summer’s right around the corner, but the heat is already on. From unrelenting sunshine to sizzling grills, feeling hot (and cooling down) are part of the daily grind now. PopSci is here to help you ease into the most scorching season with the latest science, gear, and smart DIY ideas. Welcome to Hot Month.

Our ancestors began cooking with fire at least a million years ago, and there’s even a controversial theory that says the first barbecue might’ve sparked the evolution of modern humans. Despite that history, understanding how to build a cooking fire is a skill that can be difficult to learn, especially when stoves are so easy.

Given the depictions of campfire cooking and flame-grilled burgers that pervade our collective consciousness, it’s easy to think that all you have to do is start a steady blaze. And while there are certainly situations where that will be enough, the best cooking fire doesn’t involve tall, dancing flames—it’s fueled by hot, smoldering coals.

Gather your fuel and gear and find a good spot

Ideally, you should start your fire 45 to 90 minutes before you plan to cook. This will give you enough time to build a solid coal bed, says chef Jean-Paul Bourgeois, who has constructed cooking fires all over the world. Before you start, make sure you have four things: wood, a fire starter, a good location, and the proper tools.

Although charcoal is a common cooking fuel, wood can be easier to find and a bit trickier to work with, so this story will focus on how to build a wood-burning fire. But because charcoal is often made out of organic materials and there’s little difference between those black briquettes and a heap of red-hot timber, we’ll point out where techniques overlap.

Wood

Firewood is the most important ingredient in a wood-burning fire. We shouldn’t have to tell you why. Not just any wood, though—it needs to be dry, or seasoned, to avoid excess smoke and inefficient combustion. You can buy wood, pretty much guaranteeing its quality, or gather it yourself.

If you do harvest your own, avoid moisture-filled green wood (unless you plan to let it dry out for several months), and pieces with a lot of bark, which can produce thick black smoke. You should also know how to identify plants to avoid burning any that could harm you or your guests. Burnt oleander, for example, can produce toxic smoke.

Tools

Whether you bought your wood by the cord or scrounged some up from a nearby forest, you’ll most likely need an axe or a hatchet to cut some of it up. Typically, firewood should be 16 to 18 inches long, and you can split it as fine as you want for different purposes, says Steve Schoettle, co-founder of Sea Island Forge, a company that makes kettles and other gear for open-fire cooking.

A good chopper will allow you to control the size of the wood you’re using—smaller pieces for kindling, bigger ones for burning. Don’t toss on logs that are too big, though, because they’ll take a while to turn into coal, says chef Katie Button. Her husband, Félix Meana, who builds many of the fires she cooks on, says he usually quarters a standard piece of wood, then cuts those quarters in half. You can keep halving them to get smaller kindling, he explains.

You’ll also want a good fire poker, one that’s long enough so you can tend the fire and move coals and wood around without burning yourself, Schoettle says. The best ones are made out of metal, and while you can use a long stick, that’s not ideal because it can (obviously) catch fire, he says.

Location

The best spot for a fire is on flat ground, at least 15 feet away from any other flammable objects, according to the National Park Service. That includes leaf litter and dry grass, so clear an area around your fire if you need to. What’s above the fire matters too—the coals should have a clear view of the sky, Schoettle says.

[Related: How to build a fire in the wilderness]

If you’re cooking at home and you have a fire pit, you’re probably all set, but if you’re somewhere else, you should also make sure that the ground under your fire is pure dirt or some other type of mineral. Fire can burn down into tree roots or buried organic matter, and that’s not safe. If you’re winter camping and trying to cook on top of snow, you can build your fire atop a raft of green wood—this will keep melting snow from dousing your coals, while not catching alight itself.

Fire starter

Finally, you need a fire starter. This comprises two items: something that will spark a flame, like a match or a lighter, and a material that burns easily and will set your kindling on fire. For the latter, Bourgeois likes fatwood—a 6- to 8-inch-long sliver of naturally resin-soaked pine. He says it burns for a long time and ignites with just a lighter.

He’s also seen chefs soak rolled-up newspaper in leftover bacon grease to create their own flammable wicks for future fires. Beyond that, you can use a wide variety of materials, including lighter fluid, duct tape, dried leaves, and even Cheetos, depending on what you have on hand and how desperate you are.

Start your fire

Before you start, make sure your kindling, firewood, and supplies are close by, so the fire is easy to maintain and you never have to leave it unattended.

Then, put your fire starting material down with some small kindling on top of it. It doesn’t really matter how this looks, as long as you have good airflow between the pieces you’re trying to set alight. You might gather some dry leaves, splinter some wood on top, then build a pyramid of dried twigs, or crumple some newspaper under some loosely stacked kindling.

“You’re building from very light, dry, very flammable organic material to something a little thicker that has a little more substance, because that fire’s going to light in steps,” Bourgeois says. 

If you’re not using an accelerant like lighter fluid, you’ll want to get the kindling and smaller pieces of wood burning first. If you put full logs on too early, they could smother the flames, Bourgeois says. Instead, take your time and get a good core fire going.

No matter when you put the bigger pieces of wood on, stack them so the structure looks like a log cabin or the beginnings of a Jenga tower. Organizing the wood like this allows for good airflow, which keeps the fire alive and thriving. Without a steady supply of oxygen to feed the flames, your fire will merely smolder or go out entirely.

With charcoal, airflow remains important, but you’ll probably end up building a pyramid of briquettes over your fire starting material or using a chimney starter.

Maintain your fire

You can’t ignore your fire once it’s going—you’ve got to keep it alive and turn the fuel into coal for cooking.

“Fire is a living, breathing entity: it responds to external stimuli, it consumes energy, it can reproduce. In a sense, your fire has a personality from the time it starts to the time it goes out,” Schoettle says. “You always want to take good care of your fire so it takes good care of you.”

That means feeding your fire as it consumes fuel. Button says she and her husband feed small pieces of wood into one side of the fire, creating more coals as they cook over the coals they created earlier. When the older coals start to lose heat, she uses a poker to pull in the new ones.

A few open-fire cooking tips

We could write 10,000 more words (at least) about how to cook over open flames on a grill grate, cast-iron pan, kettle, or spit, but because this story is about fire structure, we’ll briefly discuss cooking advice that focuses on how your fire actually looks.

By the time you start cooking, you should have a good bed of coals, and you can move those hot chunks of wood or dusty white charcoal briquettes  around to create different temperature zones. Schoettle likes to build a bed of coals with a live kindling fire on one end so he can get a touch of flame flavor when he needs it.

[Related: Five tools you absolutely need to start grilling]

Button likes a nice, even layer of coals under her cooking area, because it’s a lot easier to control the heat that way. Bourgeois says the same, noting that the heat provided by tall, dancing flames is far more inconsistent than a hot coal bed.

“Flames are hot, but also inefficient. They’ll give you heat, but they’ll give you heat that flickers on and off,” he says. “Your hottest and best cooking fire is with a coal bed with just small, little flames.”

As you cook, give yourself time to learn—open-fire cooking is a skill that needs time to grow.  And when you’re done and the fire is safely extinguished, focus more on how much people enjoyed your food, not the struggles you had along the way.

“Try not to be too hard on yourself—it’s probably going to be good no matter what you do,” Bourgeois says. “It’s going to take some time to dial that in, because fire is wild, the elements you’re cooking in are wild, and you’re not. You’ll have to learn how to tame that.”

The post How to build the best cooking fire right on the ground appeared first on Popular Science.

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How to preserve flowers in 4 easy ways https://www.popsci.com/save-dry-flowers/ Fri, 20 Aug 2021 13:32:38 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/uncategorized/save-dry-flowers/
Dried roses and other preserved flowers
Hint: Dried petals last longer if you're trying to figure out how to preserve your flowers. Pixabay

Dry ‘em, press ‘em, and, uh ... microwave ‘em?

The post How to preserve flowers in 4 easy ways appeared first on Popular Science.

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Dried roses and other preserved flowers
Hint: Dried petals last longer if you're trying to figure out how to preserve your flowers. Pixabay

This post has been updated. It was originally published on October 7, 2019.

Those flowers may have looked good when you first received them, but despite your best efforts, you can’t keep them fresh forever. If you really want to preserve your blooms, you need to remove their moisture with a process like air-drying, pressing, or nuking them in the microwave. (You can also try dipping them in wax, but that method is harder to pull off.)

“There are many quirky and unconventional techniques out there,” Alfred Palomares, vice president of merchandising at floral retailer 1-800-Flowers, told Popular Science in an email. “All these ways have the potential to produce beautiful and consistent results.” While you can try any preservation method, each one does have its own pros and cons.

For the traditional: air-drying

To stick with a classic technique, you can simply hang your bouquet upside down. As the air wicks moisture away from the blooms, they should gradually dehydrate.

However, this method can be a little finicky: Flowers may shed their petals, and mold can attack them. Plus, the process takes a few weeks. On the bright side, this drying technique does preserve the flowers’ stems.

To start, you’ll need twine or ribbon, a well-ventilated area out of direct sunlight (like a closet with the door open), a hook or hanger that will support your bouquet’s weight, and, optionally, hairspray.

[Related: 7 edible flowers and how to use them]

If you’d like to experiment with air-drying, wait for your blooms to partially or fully open. Then tie a few of them together by their stems. Fasten them tightly enough that they won’t slip out—as they dry, they may shrink—but loosely enough that they don’t bend the stem, because those compressed areas will be damp and thus attractive to mold.

Next, hang the bouquet upside down in your drying area. Ventilation will help dry the flowers, and a lack of sunlight will reduce the amount that their colors fade. Leave the bundle for two to four weeks, checking back at regular intervals to see how it’s doing. Once your flowers are dry, a quick spritz with hairspray will help prevent them from crumbling too easily.

For the risk-averse: book-pressing

a stack of books on a wood surface
Unfortunately, you can’t press flowers with the sheer weight of human existence, but books do a fine job, too. Photo: Morgan Harper Nichols/Unsplash Morgan Harper Nichols via Unsplash

If you want an easy preservation method, with the least risk of messing up your results, you can press any flower variety in a book. That’s not to say that the process is fast—it can take a month for the petals to fully dry out—but your workload upfront is minimal.

“There’s little effort and upkeep that goes into this technique,” Palomares says, “and the results are consistently wonderful.” The only downside is that pressing works best when you remove the stems.

For this method, you’ll need a heavy hardcover book, such as a dictionary or coffee-table tome, a few sheets of paper or waxed paper, and a pair of scissors.

Start by trimming your flowers down to the heads, removing as much of the stem as possible. Then take the book, open it to the center, and cover the pages with a sheet of paper or waxed paper. Close and reopen the book to crease the liner layer so it will stay in place. Finally, place the bud close to the middle of one of the pages, press the bud flat on the paper, and close the book.

Over time, the liner paper or waxed paper will absorb moisture from the flower, gradually desiccating it. Check your flower’s progress once a week or so, replacing the liner paper to give it a fresh dry surface. After four to five weeks, you’ll have a dried blossom that should last indefinitely.

For impatient driers: silica gel

If you want results fast, you can speed up the drying process. However, these techniques require that you pay more attention to the flowers. You can sometimes over-dry them, resulting in fragile blooms that can crumble all too easily.

For a speedy version of the air-drying method, cover your blossoms in a moisture-absorbing desiccant like silica gel, which is made up of silicon dioxide, a key component of sand. Although silica gel can be expensive, you can always reuse it. In addition to the gel itself, you’ll need an air-tight flat-bottomed container, such as a jar or piece of Tupperware.

[Related: How to can your favorite foods without dying]

Pour some silica gel into the bottom of your container to form a layer between 1/2 inch and 1 inch thick. Add a layer of flowers, and then pour more gel on top, making sure it gets in between the petals, until the blossoms are completely covered. Pop the lid back on the container, and leave it for a couple of days.

Check on the dried flowers every two days, for up to a couple weeks, until they feel dry. Then remove them, brush off any remaining sticky gel, and save the leftover silica for another day. You can keep using it until it turns pink, indicating it has lost its moisture-absorbing abilities.

For impatient pressers: microwave pressing

Just as silica acts like a speedy version of the air-drying technique, you can use microwaves in an update of the pressing method. As the microwave radiation heats up the liquid inside flowers, it escapes as vapor, drying the blooms.

“While it may seem unusual, pressing flowers in a microwave is a perfectly safe and quick option for those looking to save time and resources,” says Palomares. However, he says, “Like any shortcut, there’s a slightly higher chance of this method producing mixed results when compared to the others.”

For this option, you’ll need two microwave-safe ceramic plates, several coffee filters, and, of course, a microwave.

To start, layer your materials in this order: face-up plate, coffee filter, flower, coffee filter, face-up plate. Pop this sandwich into the microwave for one minute, then take it out, check the dryness of the flower, and replace the coffee filters with fresh ones. Repeat this process until the blossom is as dry as you want it to be.

All the techniques can turn your flowers from ephemera into mementos. Try experimenting with a couple of different methods to see which one gives you the best results.

The post How to preserve flowers in 4 easy ways appeared first on Popular Science.

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A beginner’s guide to building your own PC https://www.popsci.com/beginners-guide-build-pc/ Thu, 18 Oct 2018 17:33:25 +0000 https://stg.popsci.com/uncategorized/beginners-guide-build-pc/
Motherboard
With a little help, you can build your own computer. Fancycrave via Unsplash

Create a custom computer.

The post A beginner’s guide to building your own PC appeared first on Popular Science.

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Motherboard
With a little help, you can build your own computer. Fancycrave via Unsplash

Building your own PC from scratch gives you the freedom to choose the exact specifications you want, and it often saves money as well. However, the idea can be daunting. You have to source the components, stick them all together, troubleshoot problems, ensure everything works, and install an operating system—all of which requires a lot more work than just buying a computer.

Still, once you get started, the process isn’t all that difficult. With the right guidance, anyone can build a custom PC. So we collected everything you’ll need to know. Go ahead, put together your own computer piece by piece.

The building blocks of a computer

Before you start buying components, you need to decide which ones will work best for your needs. Any PC requires a case to hold everything, a motherboard to act as the nervous system of the new machine, a processor and RAM to slot into the motherboard, a power supply unit (PSU) to regulate electricity, a hard drive to store files, and a monitor to interact with your machine.

Choosing a case is as simple as deciding what you want your new PC to look like and how much stuff you want to cram in it. The latter feature will affect the potential size of your other components. For example, more powerful graphics cards need more room, and robust processors require more cooling space, so if you want a seriously fast machine for gaming or video editing, then go big. On the other hand, if you plan to just stream Netflix, you can get away with a smaller case (without a separate graphics card).

On to the motherboard. This part attaches to one of the case’s interior sides, and other pieces (such as the processor) slot into it. Because of that, you’ll need to pick this component’s size based on the case—most cases will list the types of motherboards they can accommodate. You’ll find that the configuration specification called Advanced Technology EXtended (ATX) is the most common choice, while Micro ATX acts as a popular smaller option.

The other consideration: What do you want to slot into the motherboard? Specific models will house specific central processing units (also called CPUs or processors). Because this is a key spec, every motherboard prominently displays the types of CPU it can accommodate. You do have some leeway—a motherboard will support a particular line or family, rather than just a single one. Once you plug your chosen CPU into the large square slot near the center of the motherboard, you’ll need to dissipate heat by slapping a heatsink or sometimes a cooling fan on top of that (the faster the processor, the bigger the cooling setup). Luckily, most CPUs come with standard heatsinks, so you should find everything you need in the box.

In addition to the CPU, you’ll have to plug in some random access memory (RAM), which gives the computer room to think and handles open applications. Plug in more RAM, and you can work on more files simultaneously, access applications more quickly, run games at higher resolutions, and keep more browser tabs open at once—all without slowing your computer to a crawl. Again, you’ll need to buy the right RAM for your chosen motherboard, but you don’t need to be as particular about this component as you were about the CPU. Just make sure your motherboard has enough RAM slots for your needs. Look for two or four long slots in the motherboard—the manual will tell you the precise location.

You can also give the motherboard a graphics card. As we’ve explained in our separate guide, this component is optional. Today’s CPUs come with what’s known as integrated graphics, enough to power your PC’s display. A separate card only proves its worth when you’re trying to put a lot of fast-moving pixels on your computer’s screen for top-end gaming or you have your machine make graphics-related calculations for video editing. It slots into one of the PCI Express slots on your motherboard, which are usually on the other side of the CPU socket.

Graphics card
A graphics card can improve your gaming, as well as image and video editing. Gigabyte

The most powerful graphics cards need an extra power connection to the power supply unit, which brings us back to the PSU. The key spec you should pay attention to here is the wattage, how much power it can provide to the system. Most PSUs on the market will cover a basic setup of CPU, RAM, and hard drive—but if you’re installing a separate graphics card or an extra hard drive, then you might need more. Cooler Master has a very useful PSU calculator you should use to work out the wattage you’ll need.

Speaking of the hard drive, you’ll need this long-term digital storage to hold your files and applications. The physical component sits in a separate cage inside the case. Then you connect it via cables to the motherboard (for data) and the PSU (for power). When you’re shopping, you can opt for an older hard disk drive (HDD), which gives you more capacity for a cheaper price, or a newer Solid State Drive (SSD), which is much faster but more expensive. You can also choose a hard drive with a greater or lesser storage capacity.

Your new PC will also need a monitor, so pick one based on the amount of screen space you want. Just be aware that the larger the monitor’s size, the more you’ll have to pay. Almost all of the products you’ll find on the market will use HDMI as the connection standard. This lets you plug the video output from your motherboard or graphics card into the monitor’s input.

One component we haven’t mentioned is a DVD or Blu-ray drive. By all means buy one if you think you’re going to use it. But if you do, make sure to purchase a case that has an optical disc drive bay. Once you do, the internal connections are the same as for the hard drive: one to the PSU for power, and one to the motherboard for transmitting data.

Shopping for components

Now you know all the components you need to buy: a case, motherboard, CPU, RAM, potentially a graphics card, PSU, a hard drive of some kind, monitor, and optionally an optical drive. Before you sit down to do some comparison shopping for these items, consider how you plan to use your new computer. For example, a PC’s most demanding uses include gaming, running a VR headset, and video editing, so if you don’t plan to do these things, you can save some money on your final setup and skip that separate graphics card.

There’s no exact formula for working out the components you’ll need, and there are almost an infinite number of combinations to choose, but don’t panic. As you start to browse around, you’ll soon get comfortable using the common terms and brand names.

Oculus Rift
The Oculus Rift VR headset requires a fairly hefty PC setup. Oculus

You should start with your processor. In this case, you’ve got a choice between two brands: Intel (usually best for performance) and AMD (usually best for value-for-money). Intel offers several generations of i3, i5, and i7 processors, rising in power and price as you go up that list. The newest versions of these processors are the 8th-generation chips, but if you want to go for more affordable option and don’t mind a slight performance trade-off, look for older-generation CPUs still on sale. As for AMD, the second-generation Ryzen processors are the newest on the market, and like Intel, it has a rising scale of performance and price: Ryzen 3, 5, and 7. We don’t have room to give you a complete buying guide here, but benchmarking and comparison tools like CPU Benchmarks can help.

Broadly speaking, an Intel Core i5 processor (or the AMD equivalent, Ryzen 5) and 8GB of RAM will give you a decent mid-range machine. If you want to save money and don’t mind budget-level performance, then downgrade an Intel Core i3 chip and 4GB of RAM. For the fastest, most powerful machine, you’ll want to bump up to an Intel Core i7 chip and 16GB (or more) of RAM.

If you plan to check emails, write essays, edit photos, and play simple games, then the integrated graphics built into Intel’s chips should serve you just fine. For serious gaming, video editing and more advanced photo editing (with larger files and more complex edits), consider investing in a separate graphics card. However, first make sure you have enough RAM and a fast enough CPU to cope—otherwise you run the risk of causing a bottleneck where the graphics card isn’t being used to its full potential because the other components can’t keep up. This isn’t usually a problem unless you have a top-end graphics card with a distinctly mid-range processor. To make sure, do some online research.

Picking hard drive storage is a little easier than sifting through the dozens of graphics cards on the market: 1TB is a good size for a capable PC. Get more if you’ll be installing a lot of games or working with a lot of 4K videos; get less if you’ll be mostly working on the web and storing a lot of your data in the cloud.

Once you’ve decided on CPU and RAM, these will guide your choice of motherboard and case. The PSU and hard drive are more independent because most models of these components will fit most motherboards. Still, you should double-check the specs sheet to make sure that they’ll function well together. If you can’t immediately figure out the compatibility, a quick web search or a chat with a customer service representative should help you.

NewEgg
NewEgg is one of the best-known PC component retailers. David Nield

When you’ve chosen your components, get some help from forums like those at Overclockers and Tom’s Hardware. List the components you plan to use, and members will point out potential compatibility or performance issues. You can also learn useful information by reading threads on these sites.

After you double-check your choices, you’re ready to buy. Dedicated electronics retailers such as NewEgg, OutletPC, and Micro Center are good places to start your search. These sites are easy to navigate—computer parts are clearly categorized, so you can jump straight to the type of motherboard or RAM that you require. You’ll also find plenty of PC components on Amazon, but the retail giant doesn’t have the same variety that the dedicated retailers do.

At these sites, you often find bonus guides, compatibility advice, and forums. For example, NewEgg has a compatibility checker that can tell you what types of memory work with which motherboards, while Micro Center offers a guide to installing a graphics card. In addition to those lists of products and prices, look out for helpful resources like these.

Put together the build

You’ve picked your components, checked their compatibility, and ordered them. Now you’re ready to actually build your computer. You can easily do this within a couple hours—though you should avoid rushing the process if you’ve never put together your own PC before. And if you can enlist the help of a reasonably tech-savvy friend, all the better.

First, set up in a good environment. A hard, flat table is the perfect place for assembly. Avoid carpets, which are uneven and tend to generate static electricity that can damage the components.

Speaking of static electricity, before you touch any components, ground yourself by touching a metal part of the computer case, or by wearing an anti-static wrist strap. As for other tools, a lot of modern cases let you slot in components without them. Still, we’d recommend keeping a Phillips screwdriver on hand, just in case. That’s just about the only equipment you’ll need.

The PC parts you buy should ship with just about everything you need—for example, the PSU will come with its own power cable. Handle all of these components carefully by the edges. When you’re not using them, place them on top of the anti-static bags they came in.

Now you’re ready for assembly. First, fit the PSU into the case, then screw in the motherboard. Next, add the CPU, RAM, hard drive, and graphics card (if you’ve bought one).

Unsure about where to put everything? The instructions supplied with the motherboard and other components should tell you. If they’re confusing or incomplete, an online search should help—make sure your search terms include the exact model names and numbers of your components, or you won’t get the right results.

CPU
An Intel CPU inside a motherboard socket. Alexandru-Bogdan Ghita via Unsplash

The processor has perhaps the most involved installation process, but it should also come with step-by-step instructions to help. When you drop it into the motherboard slot, you should see some form of clip or bracket you can use to fix it in place. Apply a thin layer of thermal paste, if it doesn’t come pre-applied on the cooler, then fix the heatsink and cooling fan on top. These typically screw straight into the motherboard.

Once you’ve installed all these pieces, the last hardware requirement is to connect the power cable and actually switch on the machine. You do this via a button on the PSU or the case. When you hit it, you should hear the reassuring sounds of the motherboard and storage drive starting up…that is, if you’ve connected everything successfully. If not, don’t panic. Switch the power back off, double-check all the connections and slots, and then try again.

Troubleshooting problems is a whole new article in itself, but one way to work out what’s going on is if the motherboard emits a beep or two. To translate those noises, Computer Hope offers a comprehensive beep code list. In fact, your motherboard’s manual might include its own decoder. For example, on a Dell machine, two beeps indicates that the motherboard can’t detect any installed RAM. If the motherboard doesn’t offer any tell-tale noises, you’ll have to go methodically through each component, one by one, making sure they’re all correctly seated and connected. Are data and power cables hooked up to the hard drive? Is the CPU heatsink firmly attached on top of the processor? The connections must be solid for the system to work.

Install the operating system

When the hardware warms up, your computer will need an operating system, either Windows or Linux. The best option is to use a different computer to set up a USB drive that holds the necessary installation files. Microsoft has instructions for doing this with Windows, and you can follow these instructions to do the same thing for Ubuntu Linux.

Although Linux is free, Windows 10 isn’t: You’ll need to pay $139 for the direct download, and then you can transfer it to your new PC via USB.

To get your new machine to recognize the USB stick and the software on it, you may need to adjust the way the hardware boots up. Watch the screen for a message about entering the BIOS, which stands for Basic Input/Output System. This is the software on the motherboard, which handles communications between all the different parts of the computer. The motherboard user manual should come with a shortcut key to help you get into the BIOS. You should see a boot order option somewhere, where you can tell the BIOS to load from the USB drive rather than the hard drive or the optical drive. While you’re here, you can check that the motherboard is correctly recognizing the drives, RAM, processor, and all the other components.

After you install your operating system, you should be ready to go! The whole process may take some time, but it’s also a lot of fun. And in the end, you’ll have a PC tailored to your exact specifications.

The post A beginner’s guide to building your own PC appeared first on Popular Science.

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Build a killer gaming PC for $100 https://www.popsci.com/story/diy/build-cheap-gaming-pc/ Tue, 26 Nov 2019 15:49:12 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/uncategorized/build-cheap-gaming-pc/
Man opening a trash can.
One person's garbage is another one's gateway to spending endless hours playing video games. Whitson Gordon.

Turn old parts into a frugal fragging machine.

The post Build a killer gaming PC for $100 appeared first on Popular Science.

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Man opening a trash can.
One person's garbage is another one's gateway to spending endless hours playing video games. Whitson Gordon.

Building your own computer from scratch allows you to craft the perfect rig for your needs, but if you’re on a super-strict budget, a shiny, new, custom-built PC isn’t always feasible.

So it’s a good thing you don’t need one of those to play games.

Sure, $400 or $500 might build you a decent budget gaming PC, but if money is tighter than that, your best bet is to go with something used. You might get lucky and find a cheap gaming PC on Craigslist, but you’ll get better bang for your buck going with something more common and less specialized: a decommissioned office PC.

That’s right—with a few choice upgrades, those Dell towers that litter office buildings ‘round the world can actually make decent gaming rigs. And your town is probably crawling with them, since schools and businesses often get rid of them in large batches.

Their loss is your gain—let’s bring one of those suckers back to life.

Related: Best gaming laptop: Five things to consider

What you’ll get

Before you start hunting for hardware, you’ll need to set your expectations. Even with a few upgrades, a low-end PC such as the Dell Optiplex I found won’t be playing all the latest triple-A titles at high resolutions with beautiful, ray-traced graphics. It will, however, handle a lot of lower-requirement esports titles like Counter-Strike: Global Offensive, League of Legends, Fortnite, Overwatch, and Rocket League. Depending on the upgrades you make, higher-end games like Shadow of the Tomb Raider might be playable if you’re willing to turn the resolution down to 720p. (If you run into any trouble, though, YouTube channel LowSpecGamer has a lot of tricks for playing newer games below the minimum system requirements.)

Open PC tower
It doesn’t look like much now, but with a little love, this baby will help you win hundreds of battles. Whitson Gordon

Of course, you’ll also be able to grab games from a couple years ago during a Steam sale and play them without much issue, for super cheap. And since “Gaming” doesn’t just mean playing the latest graphical behemoths on launch day, you can also dig further back to classic masterpieces on stores like GOG.com.

Finally, know that this PC probably won’t be a long-term investment, so consider it a stopgap until you can afford a more powerful build. After all, we’re talking about pretty old, well-used hardware, and you can only upgrade it so far before it makes more sense to build a new PC from scratch. It also may require a bit more maintenance, so be ready to tackle problems if they happen—and make sure you have a good backup solution handy for your data.

If all that sounds palatable, it’s time to start deal hunting.

Where to find your parts

You can find used cheap PC parts all over the web, but the best deals are probably right in your neighborhood. I recommend pounding the pavement and finding your local electronics recycling centers, office liquidators, and thrift stores—give them a call or pay them a visit to see what kind of used PCs and PC parts they have. Alternatively, if you know people at local schools and businesses, ask them if their IT department is looking to offload any old gear.

Screenshot of Craiglist
It might go without saying, but you should always test the PC before handing over any money. Whitson Gordon

You’ll be able to find a lot of the components you’ll need this way, but not necessarily all of them. For anything you can’t find at an e-waste center, you’ll want to scour Craigslist, OfferUp, LetGo, and other similar apps. You can also try eBay, but the platform has a much larger audience, which means stuff tends to sell for its fair market price. But you’re scraping together a PC on the lowest budget possible, so market price is not what you want: you want a local seller who’s willing to negotiate a killer deal just to get it off their hands. (You can even try to find some gaming PC parts for free, but I wouldn’t bank on that too hard—especially if you want stuff in decent working order.)

Buying local also allows you to test the equipment before you hand over your money. When negotiating the sale, ask the seller to have it plugged in and ready to try when you go to pick it up. That way you can see if it boots into Windows, run CrystalDiskInfo to see if the hard drive is still in good shape, and make sure it doesn’t reek of smoke (seriously—this is more common that you’d think). If the PC doesn’t have a hard drive—it’s common for companies to destroy them for security reasons before they dispose of their computers—see if it boots into the BIOS, or bring a flash drive with the Windows installer on it and see if it boots into that. If everything looks reliable, you can take it home and start working on your upgrades.

Online sales like eBay do offer buyer protection, though, which is handy if you get a defective component. Craigslist doesn’t usually have any recourse for that, so you’ll have to weigh your risk tolerance with your budget and go from there.

Related: Nine tweaks to supercharge your gaming PC

What to look for

As with any PC build, it helps to plan things out before you actually go shopping. (We’re assuming you already have a general idea of what goes into building a gaming PC—if you don’t, you should definitely become acquainted with our PC building guide first.) Lay out your budget, figure out which computer parts will fit into it, then start your hunt. My goal was to build something for only $100 (because hey, I like a challenge), but I’ll lay out parts in a few different price ranges for those who have more to spend.

The tower

PC tower
You’ve basically saved this poor PC tower from endlessly running Excel. Whitson Gordon

There are a few different types of office-oriented PCs out there, but the Dell Optiplex is one of the more common and the one I’d recommend for this conversion. If you can find a Lenovo, HP, or Compaq machine with similar specs for a good price, you can use those too, but they’re a bit harder to come by. You’re looking for something that, ideally, has a second-generation Intel Core i5 processor (in which the four-digit number after i5 starts with a 2) or newer processor—an i3 might get you by, but avoid Core 2 Quads and other lower-end CPUs if you can.

These office PCs also come in different forms. I recommend getting a larger “mini-tower,” rather than one of the smaller, slimmer machines—you’ll have an easier time fitting in a graphics card, power supply, and other upgrades. If you find a small rig for a price that’s too good to pass up, it’ll work, but you’ll need to either shop for low-profile graphics cards or jury-rig it into the case using a PCI-express riser.

Finally, think about your upgrade plans for this machine. If you’re just building a cheap PC to get you by until you can build a new, high-end rig in a few months, you don’t need to worry too much about compatibility with future upgrades. But if you’re planning on adding a bit more power to this build, you may want to narrow your search to models that use a standard 24-pin power socket on the motherboard. Some of these office PCs use a smaller, non-standard 8-pin power connector, which means you won’t be able to upgrade your power supply in the future. It isn’t strictly necessary—many people will be just fine with the included power supply and a low-power graphics card like I’ll be using here—but it’s nice to have the option in the future. (There are 8-pin to 24-pin adapters out there, but I’m hesitant to use power supply adapters like these since many are cheaply or incorrectly made.)

That sounds like a lot of caveats, but as you browse through the shelves at the e-waste center (or through photos on Craigslist), you’ll be able to spot these things pretty quickly. I found a few contenders here in the San Diego area where I live, but eventually went with a Craigslisted Dell Optiplex 9010 that hit all my requirements for only $50. It didn’t have a hard drive, but even with that caveat, it was the best deal I could find—a hard drive is a pretty cheap addition.

Remember, patience is key—you may not find a killer deal tonight, tomorrow, or even next week, but if you monitor things closely and negotiate your butt off, you’ll eventually find the perfect system for an unbeatable price.

The graphics card

Graphic card on wooden table
For little money, the NVIDIA GTX 650 can get you a long way. Whitson Gordon

An office PC can handle day-to-day tasks just fine, but we’re gunning for a gaming rig here, which means you’ll need to pop in a dedicated graphics card. Again, you’ll want to hunt the used market for the best deals, and this is one area where e-waste centers probably don’t have what you need—but eBay just might.

On the low end, you can probably find an NVIDIA GTX 650 for cheap, as they usually sell for around $35 on eBay. It’s a bit long in the tooth, but you’d be surprised what you can get away with playing on a card this affordable—titles like CS:GO, League of Legends, and Dota 2 should run beautifully at 1080p, while games like Fortnite, Overwatch, and Rocket League may require ratcheting down the resolution a bit to stay at 60 frames per second. Something like this ASUS model is a good one to buy, since it doesn’t require a 6-pin connection to the power supply—which most office PCs won’t have.

If you can find it, an NVIDIA GTX 750 Ti would be even better, and is a good sweet spot for a build like this. It can crush most esports titles, and scrape by just enough in higher-end triple-A games. I found this Zotac model listed for $50 on OfferUp here in San Diego, which I negotiated down to $30—a pretty great deal. Again, the lack of a 6-pin socket is key if you don’t want to upgrade your power supply.

If you’re using a smaller PC, you’ll want a low-profile card—the NVIDIA GT 1030 is a popular one, and lies somewhere between the above two cards in power. It has a market price of around $50 for the less expensive models, but you might be able to get it for cheaper if you’re patient and buy locally.

The further you step up in cards—say, an AMD RX 460 or 560 for around $65, or a GTX 950, 960, or 1050 Ti for around $100—the more you can play. The 1050 Ti is also available without a 6-pin connector, and in a low-profile shape for slimmer desktops. At this point, though, you’ll need to consider adding a beefier power supply, which will increase the total cost of your setup. Still, a $200 rig powered by a GTX 1050 Ti is a fantastic value proposition.

You can go higher up the chain than that, but soon the old CPU in your salvaged computer will likely become a bottleneck, meaning your performance won’t increase enough to make the cost worth it. Plus, at that point, you’re probably better off building a PC from scratch rather than using the old office rig as your base anyway.

Other hardware (and software)

Computer components on wooden table
For security reasons, companies tend to destroy hard drives before disposing of their computers, so you’ll likely have to get a new one. Whitson Gordon

If you have more to spend—or your computer comes missing a few components—there are a few other things you’ll need to consider:

  • Storage: Many of these used PCs won’t come with a hard drive, meaning you’ll have to add one yourself. You have a few choices: you can grab a new 500GB HDD for around $25, though it’ll be a little slow. If you’re efficient with your storage, I’d recommend buying a lower-capacity, higher-speed SSD like this 128GB PNY model for $20. Or, if you have enough money, get one of each: use the SSD for your boot drive, your spinning drive for your files, and live your best life. If you find a tower that does come with storage, make sure to test its health with CrystalDiskInfo—if it’s starting to fail, see if you can negotiate the price down further to make up for the drive you’ll have to buy.
  • An operating system: You’ll need a 5GB flash drive to install Windows—if you don’t have one, borrow one (you’ll only need it for an hour or two). Almost all of these PCs should come with Windows licenses in the form of a 25-digit key printed on a sticker somewhere on the tower. If yours doesn’t have a Windows license, it’s probably not worth buying, since Windows costs about $100 on its own. If you plan on running Linux instead, you won’t need to worry about this, but since most people will probably want Windows for gaming, make sure it has that sticker.
  • A keyboard, mouse, and monitor: As with most PC building guides, we’re only focusing on the tower itself here—we’re assuming you have an old monitor, keyboard, and mouse lying around. But if you don’t, you can often find old office peripherals in the same e-waste centers and classified apps where you found the tower (you’ll just need to budget for them). There are also plenty of affordable “gaming” mice and keyboards on Amazon, from brands like Velocifire and Redragon, if you’re willing to spend a bit more.
  • A network connection: My machine didn’t have Wi-Fi, which was fine since I planned on using the more reliable Ethernet connection to access the internet. If Ethernet isn’t an option for you and your PC doesn’t have Wi-Fi, you’ll want to find a PCI or USB Wi-Fi receiver to access the web, either used or new on Amazon.
  • A better power supply: while I found the 295-watt power supply in my Dell Optiplex was adequate for my GTX 750 Ti, it’s definitely borderline. If you can afford a nicer model like this EVGA 450-watt unit, it’s a worthy upgrade. Your system will be more stable since it will have more wattage headroom for your hardware, and you’ll have a wider choice in graphics cards, since it has a 6-pin connector.
  • Some extra RAM: If your office PC only comes with 4GB of RAM, you’ll be able to get by, but it’s really at the edge of what I’d recommend on a Windows system today. Luckily, those old PCs use the older DDR3 standard, which means you can probably buy another 4GB for $10 (or less) on the used market. You’ll be glad you did, particularly if you plan on opening a lot of browser tabs or playing higher-end games.

You shouldn’t need much else, though some rubbing alcohol may be useful for cleaning the case, and a cloth for cleaning any dust off internal components.

Make your upgrades and install Windows

Once you’ve got your hardware in-hand—remember, patience is a virtue if you want the best price possible—it’s time to build your PC. We’ve already run through how to build a PC in this guide, so I won’t hold your hand every step of the way, but I will note a few things you may want to watch out for with Optiplex-like office PCs.

Hand opening side of PC tower
Let’s get the hard(ware) part over with. Whitson Gordon

I ended up with a $50 Dell Optiplex 9010 housing an Intel Core i5-3470 CPU, 4GB of RAM, and no hard drive. I added a GTX 750 Ti I got for $30 and an SSD I got for free from a friend who was leaving town—although let’s assume I paid $20 for the sake of a fair comparison. That comes out to $100 even for my final setup—though again, I’d recommend a bit more RAM and a new PSU if you have an extra $50 to spare.

My Optiplex was decently clean, though I did give the case a once-over with some rubbing alcohol and a microfiber cloth, especially where there was some leftover sticker gunk on the front. (Be careful not to remove that Windows license sticker, though.) I also removed the side panel, evicted some dust bunnies with a dust blower, and gently wiped off the fans with a dry cloth. If you have an electric air duster, all the better. (Canned air works too, though it’s terrible for the environment, so I don’t recommend it.)

Hand cleaning inside of PC tower
Ventilation fans tend to accumulate a lot of dust and are usually gross. Give it some tender love and care by cleaning it. Whitson Gordon

If you have a new power supply, you’ll want to install that before any other hardware. Unscrew the four screws surrounding the power cable on the back of the PC, unplug all the rainbow cables from the motherboard and hard drive (if applicable), and swap in your new one.

Next, grab your hard drive or SSD and insert the SATA cable, along with the SATA power cable from your power supply. I’m using an SSD, so I kind of just let it hang out where the DVD drive used to be, but if you’re using a traditional hard drive, you’ll want to screw it into the hard drive caddy and slide it into the cage. (Strangely, my particular Optiplex didn’t come with the blue caddy, but they’re available on eBay for $4.)

Hand inside of PC tower
If you’re using a hard drive, don’t leave it hanging—you’ll want to secure it to the caddy with a couple of screws. Whitson Gordon

Finally, stick your graphics card in the top PCIe slot on the motherboard, making sure it’s firmly in place, and—if you bought extra RAM—put it in a free slot. Note that your RAM needs to go in the proper slot in order to work, so check your PC’s manual if you aren’t sure which slot to use—you can usually find it on the manufacturer’s website, e.g. Dell.com.

Hand inside PC tower
Yes, this all can look a little intimidating. If you need help, look for your PC’s manual online. Whitson Gordon

Before you continue, you’ll want to use another Windows PC to burn the Windows installer to that flash drive using Microsoft’s Media Creation Tool. It’ll take a bit of time, so get the process started now and let it run while you perform the next steps.

Now you can plug your computer into the wall, connect your mouse, keyboard, and monitor, and fire ‘er up. Look for anything on-screen that says something like “Press DEL to enter Setup” or “Press F12 for Boot Options.” Press the key in question and enter the UEFI/BIOS menu—you’ll want to double check a few settings in here first. Make sure it’s set to boot using UEFI, not Legacy, and that Secure Boot is turned on (unless you’re using an operating system not supported by this feature). You’ll also want to make sure your SATA drive is set to AHCI, not IDE or RAID.

Screenshot of BIOS boot sequence
Get yourself comfy—there’s going to be a lot of booting and rebooting at this stage. Whitson Gordon

When you’re satisfied with your BIOS settings, insert your Windows flash drive and reboot the computer. It should boot automatically into the Windows installer. Choose a custom install, erase your hard drive of choice, and format it for Windows usage just like you would any other new PC. When prompted for a Windows key, enter the one on your computer’s sticker. Even if it’s for Windows 7 or 8, it should work for Windows 10 as well.

The installation process may take a while, so make yourself a cup of coffee and try to contain your excitement. You’re almost there—once Windows drops you into the desktop, you can head to the support page on your PC’s manufacturer site (e.g. Dell, HP, or Lenovo), look up your PC model, and download any necessary drivers—usually Windows will install generic drivers to get you by, but grabbing the chipset, network, and audio drivers may be necessary if those functions don’t work (or if you want extra features contained in the manufacturer’s driver). You’ll also want to head to NVIDIA or AMD’s website to install your graphics card’s drivers, since they can improve gaming performance.

Screenshot of Dell.com
You’re almost there, but nothing will work unless you get your drivers. Go to the manufacturer’s website, download and install them. Whitson Gordon

Once that’s done, I recommend running a CPU stress test like Prime95 to make sure your computer doesn’t have any power management or stability issues, preferably alongside HWiNFO so you can keep an eye on your CPU temperatures. If it can handle an hour with Prime95 running and staying under 80 degrees Celsius (176 degrees Fahrenheit) or so, you should be golden. (If you do have problems, you may want to have to do some troubleshooting—you might need a new power supply, or your CPU may be dying.) You can also run a GPU benchmark like Heaven for a couple hours to make sure your graphics card is in good shape.

Screenshot of Heaven videogame
Congrats! Now you have a new PC to play with. Your productivity might drop a little, but hey—you’re going to have a blast. Whitson Gordon

I know it’s hard to delay the fun, but if you can get through those stress tests, you can be much more confident that your PC is ready to game. When they’re finished, though, it’s time to play. Download your games and start with the graphics on their lowest settings, slowly ramping them up until the game becomes too choppy for your tastes. With a bit of careful tweaking, you’ll be mowing down alien invaders in no time.

Related: Best Cheap Gaming PCs

The post Build a killer gaming PC for $100 appeared first on Popular Science.

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How to make bath bombs at home https://www.popsci.com/how-to-make-your-own-bath-bombs/ Mon, 07 Jan 2019 21:26:46 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/uncategorized/how-to-make-your-own-bath-bombs/
A woman holds three homemade bath bombs in her hand over a bath tub full of water.
These DIY bath bombs are sure to make quite a splash. Pexels

And what is a bath bomb, anyway?

The post How to make bath bombs at home appeared first on Popular Science.

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A woman holds three homemade bath bombs in her hand over a bath tub full of water.
These DIY bath bombs are sure to make quite a splash. Pexels

We may earn revenue from the products available on this page and participate in affiliate programs. Learn more ›

Everyone loves baths. A bath bomb—a delightful chunk of good-smelling stuff that explodes into colorful fizz in your bathtub—is therefore an awesome gift on any occasion. But they can get a little pricy. If you buy ingredients in bulk and learn how make bath bombs on your own, you can get a lot more bang for your buck. Plus, you can customize color, scent, and shape to perfectly suit the holiday—or the lucky recipient. And no one will know if you save a couple dozen for yourself. Find how to make a bath bomb for yourself here!

This bath bomb recipe makes about 12 orbs of colorful fun, but the exact count will depend on the size of the silicone bath bomb molds you use.

via GIPHY

Homemade bath bomb stats:

  • Time: 10 minutes of work, several hours of drying time
  • Cost: About $2 per bomb if you make a dozen and more if you add biodegradable glitter—but prices drop if you make a big batch
  • Difficulty: Easy

Bath bomb ingredients

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Bath bomb recipe

  1. First, mix the dry bath bomb ingredients (baking soda, Epsom salt, corn starch, and citric acid) together in a large bowl. Use the whisk to make sure the mixture is clump-free. Baking soda, also known as sodium bicarbonate, is the key to making your DIY bath bombs explode: When the high pH powder reacts with a low pH acid, it produces carbon dioxide bubbles. Remember those baking soda and vinegar volcanoes you made in elementary school? Citric acid takes the place of vinegar in this chemical equation, but it doesn’t react with sodium bicarbonate until it gets wet. If you want, you can add visual decorations like biodegradable glitter into the mix. Just don’t use regular-old craft glitter, because it’s no good for our friends in the ocean.
  2. Now mix up the wet bath bomb ingredients (oil, water, essential oil, and food coloring). The easiest way to get this party started is to put them in a jar and shake them up. This is the step where you need to make some important decisions about scent. You can tweak quantity to suit your taste, but you should use about two teaspoons total of essential oil or perfume. Try cinnamon, cocoa, peppermint, or coffee scents for the winter holidays (or a combination of all four to make mocha-licious bath bombs). Or go with something classic, like a spa-like eucalyptus and lavender mix or a straight-up sugary hit of vanilla extract. The possibilities are truly endless. It’s also time to make decisions about color. We recommend sticking to a single hue to avoid accidentally muddying the bath waters. Stick to something like 4-6 drops of food coloring total, but feel free to mix up different pigments.
  3. Slowly add the liquid to the dry mixture. Really slowly. Like a teaspoon at a time. You don’t want your DIY bath bombs to explode prematurely. Whisk as you go, and slow down if things start to look fizzy. You should end up with a mixture that just barely clumps together, like damp sand.
  4. Stuff that stuff into your silicone bath bomb molds, ASAP. You don’t want the mix to dry out while it’s still in the bowl, which is why you should make sure you have enough molds to make a dozen or more bath bombs at once. Press the mixture down firmly into your molds of choice.
  5. Let your homemade bath bombs dry. If your mold has a lot of details in it, you might just want to give them a whole day to be safe. Then pop them out.
  6. Throw one into the tub and enjoy the explosive fruits of your labor. Bag the rest of your DIY bath bombs in cellophane and make your friends and family love you forever.

The post How to make bath bombs at home appeared first on Popular Science.

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How to print and frame a photo that deserves more than Instagram https://www.popsci.com/story/diy/print-frame-photos/ Fri, 28 Feb 2020 16:11:15 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/uncategorized/print-frame-photos/
Hands aligning frame on the wall
Once you've read this, you'll know how to print and frame your favorite photo. Getting that frame straight, though, is a whole other story. Lefty Kasdaglis via Unsplash

Get those IRL likes.

The post How to print and frame a photo that deserves more than Instagram appeared first on Popular Science.

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Hands aligning frame on the wall
Once you've read this, you'll know how to print and frame your favorite photo. Getting that frame straight, though, is a whole other story. Lefty Kasdaglis via Unsplash

A good framed photo hanging on your wall is worth 50,000 shots sitting in the cloud doing nothing. They can remind you of your friends and family members, great times, and who you used to be in the good ol’ days, while digital photos just bit-rot away on a hard drive. But if you haven’t printed and framed a photo in a while—or ever—you might have forgotten how to get it right.

That photo you like so much and looks great on your screen might be dull, lifeless, and even blurry on paper. There are a lot of variables to juggle if you want to make it pop and look as good as it does on screen, so let us help you get them all right.

Consider your printer

A harsh truth: not all printers can print photos, and even those that can might not do a good job. That laser printer sitting in your home office sure is great for churning out black and white tax forms, but it just won’t cut it for high-quality color photos.

Basic home inkjets can print good-looking photos, but they won’t be perfect. These printers only use four ink colors—cyan, magenta, yellow, and black—so they can’t produce particularly photorealistic prints. You’ll lose details in the shadows and highlights, and get some banding or inaccuracies in the gradual transitions between colors.

Inkjet printers designed specifically for printing photos, on the other hand, have somewhere between six and nine inks. For example, the Epson SureColor P700 adds light cyan, vivid magenta, vivid light magenta, photo black, matte black, light black, and light light black to the basic four inkjet colors. This means it can accurately print realistic photos that are good enough to sell or hang on a gallery wall.

How much this all matters is up to you. If you just want to print out some nice family photos you shot on your iPhone, then your all-in-one, four-color inkjet will likely be well up to the task. But if you have aspirations of making a living off your vivid landscape prints, or you just want to have your best shots featured in your living room, you’ll need something that will do a more accurate and detailed job.

Stock up on photo paper

Printer printing photo
Glossy paper will make those colors pop. In photos like this one, with low contrast, it really makes a difference. Joshua Fuller on Unsplash

Standard letter paper, like you’d find in an office, is only good for documents. For great photos, you’ll need great paper.

The photo you want to print will determine the kind of paper you’ll use. There are three broad categories of photo paper available: gloss, semi-gloss, and matte. Gloss paper is the standard, shiny photo paper—it’s great for vibrant, colorful images. Semi-gloss paper is slightly less glossy and is excellent for portraits, family photos, and images where you don’t want super-saturated colors. Matte paper has no shine, so it’s best for black and white photos and other high-contrast, moody works.

Once you know what kind of paper you’ll use, you’ll need to decide what size your prints will be and get the right sized paper for the job. Most home inkjet printers can print photos at 4 by 6 inches, 5 by 7 inches, and 8 by 10 inches (all standard photo sizes), as well as 8.5 by 11 inches (which is U.S. Letter size).

Also, paper quality is measured in weight per ream of 500 sheets—the thicker the paper, the heavier it is. That also means it’s better quality, and therefore, more expensive. Good photo paper is normally somewhere between 50 and 80 pounds per ream, so if you’re experimenting, the lower end of the range is a good place to start.

Grab the right ICC profiles

Different printers and papers interact in different ways you’ll need to use ICC profiles to get the best results. Developed by the International Color Consortium, these are downloadable files that tell your computer what proportion of ink to use to get your printout as close to the image on your screen as possible. High-quality paper manufacturers release these files so users can get consistent results with their individual papers and all major printer brands.

Here’s how to find the ICC profiles for the paper you’re using:

  • Check the packaging your photo paper came in for a URL or instructions on how to download ICC profiles.
  • Visit the paper manufacturer’s website and look around for an ICC profiles section.
  • Search for the name of the paper manufacturer and “ICC profiles” to go straight to the page.
  • If you’re using paper from the same manufacturer as your printer (say, Canon paper with a Canon printer), they might already be installed. Check to see if any of the print presets match the paper you’re using. If they’re there, you’ll also see them when you go to select one later on.

Once you’ve found the ICC profiles, download the correct one for the paper and printer you’re using—there are different profiles for each paper and printer combination. To install an ICC profile on Windows, right-click on the downloaded file (the extension will be ICC) and choose Install Profile. On a Mac, either run the PKG file or copy the downloaded ICC file to Macintosh HD > Library > ColorSync > Profiles.

To print with an ICC profile, you’ll need to use Photoshop, Lightroom, or an equivalent photo editing app that supports them. In Photoshop, when you print, under Color Management, select Photoshop Manages Colors for Color Handling and choose the correct ICC profile. In Lightroom, in the Print module, select the appropriate ICC profile for Profile from the Print Job options in the right-hand sidebar.

Ready your photo

Photoshop on computer screen
Yes, Photoshop can be intimidating if you’re a newbie, but basic tweaking is easy and goes a long way. João Silas on Unsplash

What looks good on screen doesn’t always translate to a great print, so there are some preliminary edits you should make to get the best results. I recommend using Lightroom Classic, but Photoshop or any other image editor will do.

First, check the resolution of the file you want to print. For high-quality photos, you’ll want to print at 300 dots per inch (DPI) or higher. For a 6-by-4-inch print, this means you’ll need a minimum image resolution of 1,800 by 1,200 pixels; and for an 11-by-8.5-inch print, it’s 3,300 by 2,550 pixels.

Photos from any smartphone with a 12 megapixel camera (like recent iPhones and Google Pixel phones) will be 4,032 by 3,024 pixels by default, which is more than enough resolution to get great prints. However, photos downloaded from Facebook or Instagram won’t, since they’re automatically compressed when uploaded. If you want good results, you’ll need to work with the original files.

In Lightroom, you can find the image resolution in the Metadata tab of the Library Module. In Photoshop, go to File and then File Info.

Once you’ve made sure you have a high-quality file, follow these steps:

  • Increase the brightness of the photo. Images look brighter on a screen than on paper because of the backlight. If you’re using Lightroom or Photoshop, start by increasing exposure by about one stop. In Photoshop, you can adjust exposure by clicking on Image in the main menu, and going to Adjustments and Exposure. In the emerging pop-up window, move the dial from 0.000 (it will be there by default) to 1.000. If all this means nothing to you, just increase the brightness of your image a little to start with. You can do so by going to Image, choosing Adjustments, and then clicking on Brightness/Contrast.
  • Crop your image so it matches the size you’re planning to print. Images sized at 4 by 6 inches and 8.5 by 11 inches have different aspect ratios, for example, and you’ll want to have control over how they’re cropped rather than letting the printer do it. In Photoshop, grab the Crop tool from the sidebar (the keyboard shortcut is C) and either select the appropriate preset or enter your own aspect ratio in the Settings bar.

After making your adjustments, use the proper paper to create a test print. This is an important part of the process, since you rarely get everything right the first time. It’s a great opportunity to see if you need to make any further edits to your image, and make sure you’ve got the correct size, paper option, and quality selected.

Check for things like:

  • The overall brightness of the image.
  • The contrast between shadows and highlights.
  • Whether the colors are saturated enough (or too saturated).
  • If there is a color cast (an unwanted tint to the whole photo) or any other problems with the colors.
  • That the details are sharp.

If there are any issues—and there almost always is something—go back, fix it, and make another test print. Repeat the process until you’re satisfied.

Print the final version

With everything dialed in, print the final version of your photo and let it sit for an entire day. This may sound exaggerated, but there’s a good reason for it: You risk smudging even quick-drying inks if you touch your photo too soon. Also, solvents in the ink can take up to 24 hours to completely evaporate, so unless you want gasses leaving a haze on the glass of the frame, be patient and put off the next steps for tomorrow.

Frame your photo

Lighted livingroom
Look at that—your shot in all its glory. Naomi Hébert on Unsplash

Frames not only protect photos but make them look better on the wall. If you’ve gone through all this trouble and effort to print a photo, don’t just stick it to your fridge with a magnet—frame it properly.

While you can easily buy new frames, a good way to get great ones on the cheap is to visit charity shops or thrift stores. Ignore whatever artwork is in it and focus on searching for a frame that will look good in your home and fit the photo you’re printing. You can get higher-quality frames for a lot less secondhand than you would buying them new.

If you want your photos to look like works of art, look for a frame with a “mat.” This is the (usually white) cardboard that surrounds photos and separates them from the border of the frame in most artistic prints. A mat will make all your photos look super classy and stand out on the wall.

Finally, when framing your photo, be careful with handling the print and the frame glass. Pick them up by touching only the edges—you don’t want oily fingerprints or hair to stick to either.

Once you’re done, hang your photo on the wall and enjoy your guests’ admiring stares.

Other tips for getting great results

As with everything, practice makes perfect, so the more photos you print, the better you’ll get at it. While you learn, here are a three extra tips to keep in mind:

  • While trial and error go a long way, consider investing in a monitor calibration tool if you’re printing professionally and want to ensure consistent results. It’ll make it easier for you to predict exactly how prints will look.
  • Just in case you may want to print the same photo again, save the print file with any edits you made. The image probably won’t look right on screen, so don’t post it to social media—just keep it around.
  • Inkjet printers work best when they’re used regularly, so don’t let your printer sit dormant for months and then expect great results. Print something once every week or two. This will also help you keep the printheads working perfectly.

The post How to print and frame a photo that deserves more than Instagram appeared first on Popular Science.

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Your new e-bike could already be sitting in your garage https://www.popsci.com/diy/convert-bike-to-e-bike/ Mon, 07 Feb 2022 19:23:38 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=424026
A homemade DIY e-bike parked in front of a snow-covered evergreen grove.
If you don't think building your own electric bike is cool, we don't know what to tell you. William Elcock

With the right parts and a little time, you can save a bunch of money on an electric bike.

The post Your new e-bike could already be sitting in your garage appeared first on Popular Science.

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A homemade DIY e-bike parked in front of a snow-covered evergreen grove.
If you don't think building your own electric bike is cool, we don't know what to tell you. William Elcock

If you’ve ever been enthralled by the idea of owning a sleek, easy-to-ride electric bike, you know how quickly that charm can fade once you see the price—they average between $2,000 and $3,000. Build your own, though, and the cost goes down significantly.

For those who have never considered an e-bike, know that they are both less effort to ride than a standard bicycle but still offer some health benefits. They can open up cycling to those unable to ride a bike due to the physical effort required, and allow people to travel farther than they could with pure leg power. Whatever your motivation is, you can transform a regular two-wheeler into an e-bike—and I can show you how.

Before we start, it goes without saying that you will need a bicycle. Beyond that, you can customize your project to suit your needs with a variety of components that will electrify your bike. The process will be slightly different for everyone, but while the exact steps may vary, the general method I used here will get you a decent, reliable e-bike for an affordable price. I’ll explain my choices in more detail within the step-by-step below, but we also have a guide about what you should consider when purchasing each part. If you’re starting from scratch, we recommend you read that first.

Stats

  • Time: 12 to 14 hours
  • Component and material cost: $340 to $360
  • Difficulty: Moderate

Components and materials

Tools

Instructions

1. Get ready to install the motor. There are a few types of motor setups available. Without getting into it too much (we hash out the pros and cons in our aforementioned e-bike gear guide), these include mid-mounted, side-mounted, front wheel hub, and rear wheel hub motors.

I chose a 250-watt side-mounted motor kit from L-Faster on AliExpress—side mounts are relatively simple to install and the cheapest of the options listed above. If you’re not sure where to start looking for motors, L-Faster is a good place to start. They have a wide variety of kits and you should be able to find one that fits your bike, or at least get a good start on your search.

  • Note: When you buy a motor kit, it comes with numerous pieces that will help your e-bike project come to life. Mine included:
    • The motor.
    • A motor mount (with mounting clasps to secure the mount and the motor to the bike frame).
    • A motor controller to change the motor’s output. This is the brain of the e-bike system and the lights, brake levers, battery, motor, switches, and throttle are all connected to this component.
    • A power switch and a throttle. The switch turns the e-bike system on and off and you gradually push the throttle with your thumb to accelerate.
    • A sprocket.
    • Friction pads, which provide a surface with a lot of grip so the sprocket can be mounted securely.
    • Friction pad plates, which provide a rigid surface and support the sprocket. My kit came with three, each with three bolt holes that allow you to fasten the sprocket to the friction pads and plates.
    • A headlight and an on-off switch.
    • A brake light.
    • Front and rear brake levers that each also activate the brake light.
    • Connectors for the switches, motor, and battery.
  • Pro tip: If you get an L-Faster side-mounted kit like I did, replace all of the kit’s bolts with bolts from your local hardware store. The kit itself is generally high-quality, but I found the bolts stripped easily.

2. Mount the motor. Turn your bike upside down, resting on the handlebars. I had to take the rear wheel off to complete the motor installation, and you will too. Once it had been detached, I slid one friction pad into the center of the wheel, behind the spokes on the side opposite the gear cassette, then put the other one on the outside of the same side. Next, I put the friction pad plates behind the inner pad and the sprocket on top of the outer pad. (From the outside in, the layers should be: sprocket, pad, wheel spokes, pad, plates.) Then I fastened the sprocket onto the wheel, using the bolts, nuts, washers, and locking washers that came with the kit, and slid the chain over the sprocket (aligning the chain comes later). I set the wheel back in place on my bike, slid the motor bracket over the rear axle bolt, and began to tighten the left rear axle nut.

When the nut began to tighten, I adjusted the bracket so the bolt holes for the motor lined up in a way that the bolts could go through and allow the mounting clasps to fit tightly around the frame. While I could still slide the motor and motor bracket around, I put the chain over both the sprocket and the motor. Then I made sure the motor was positioned so the chain was straight, and tightened the axle nut. Finally, I bolted the motor on by pushing the bolts that came with the kit through the bracket and the threaded clasps, and tightening them.

An electric motor mounted on the rear wheel of a bicycle, turning a regular bike into an e-bike.
If you choose a side-mounted motor too, your rear wheel will end up looking something like this. William Elcock

3. Prepare the battery box. You can store batteries in a frame bag that hangs from the bicycle’s top tube, and if you want to do that, you can skip or adapt this and the next two steps to fit your needs. I, however, chose a waterproof, lockable ammunition box for added security. Your battery is precious and you’ll want to protect it from theft and the elements, after all.

Drill two holes, about ¼-inch (5 millimeters) apart, in each of the four corners at the bottom of the box for the cable ties that will secure it to the rear rack (eight holes in all). Then, test-fit your batteries and motor controller inside the box to see where all the wires that connect the battery to the motor, headlight, brake light, main power switch, and an on-off switch for the headlight should go. Finally, use a sharp box cutter to cut a rectangular hole into the left or right side of the box (depending on how you plan to run the wiring).

4. Secure the battery box to the mounting rack. You may already have a cargo rack on your bike, and it’s a good place for the battery pack of a DIY e-bike. I mounted my battery box on a rear rack. There was a tradeoff I had to consider: putting the box on the back meant my bike’s stability would take a little bit of a hit, but building a decent waterproof frame-mounted solution for a better center of gravity would’ve been more complicated. Now that I’ve been riding my bike for a few months, I haven’t noticed a huge loss of stability. The bike is heavier because of the batteries and the motor, but that doesn’t matter when you get moving—it’s only an issue when you have to lift up your bike.

Once I turned my bike back over, I secured the box to the rack using a cable tie threaded through the pair of holes in each corner of the box and around the tubes of my cargo rack. I ended up with the box running along the length of the rack.

5. Put the battery in the box. I was able to buy four used 72-watt-hour 36-volt battery packs from IMGadgets in Canada, where I live, for about $60. I chose the voltage to match the motor’s voltage and tested the packs before using them—they were in excellent condition. Finding used batteries is a great way to cut costs, but you’ll need to ensure you buy from a reputable seller, and/or one that lets you try them out before any money changes hands. You can purchase cheap batteries online, but you’re more likely to get safe, well-functioning batteries at a good price from a local supplier. Still, AliExpress and Battery Hookup are good places to find quality, affordable batteries online. Whatever you get, it should have a battery management system (BMS) to ensure each cell maintains the same capacity. This ensures uniform performance and battery drainage.

Before putting the battery module (all four 36-volt packs) into its housing, I ran a strip of double-sided mounting tape along the bottom of each pack and across their left side to ensure they wouldn’t bounce around while on the road. I used Scotch-Mount Extreme tape because it’s rated to hold up to 30 pounds—multiple strips was more than enough to keep my batteries in place. Finally, I placed the module into its home, pressing to adhere the tape to the bottom and side of the box. Where you apply tape can vary depending on the shape of your battery. Just make sure to cover as much surface area as possible.

  • Note: A battery’s watt-hour rating tells you how much energy it can store. Try to find one that has a capacity of at least 300 watt-hours. This should give you a range of about 15 miles (24 kilometers), because every mile (1.6 kilometers) should use up about 20 watt-hours.

6. Install the remaining components. With the motor in place, I installed the front and rear brake levers, the headlight, the power switch and throttle assembly, and the headlight’s on-off switch. For the brake levers, this was as simple as removing the old levers with the correct Allen wrench, fitting the new ones, and tightening the provided bolts. I fit the headlight, headlight on-off switch, and the power switch and throttle assembly over the handlebars in suitable locations and tightened them with the provided mounts and Allen wrenches.

Once those pieces were in place, I put my e-bike’s “brain” (the motor controller) on top of the batteries in the battery box and mounted the battery box and cargo rack to the bike frame. Finally, I attached the brake light to the cargo rack with a couple of cable ties. Where you put the “brain” depends on the remaining space available in the battery box.

  • Pro tip: If you had to add a cargo rack to your bike, add some locking washers. After some time riding the bike, the rack may shift position due to the weight of the battery, and locking washers should help mitigate or prevent this.

7. Connect the wires. I ran all the wires for the brake levers, on-off switches, lights, and motor through the rectangular hole in the battery box and connected them to the motor controller. Then I secured the wires to the frame with cable ties, but I had to do a little more work getting my charger sorted out.

The motor controller in my kit had an attached charging connector, and my charger had a male barrel end, so I had to wire a female barrel connector or they would not have linked up. This was relatively easy since the kit came with extra connectors. I just pushed the wires from the barrel connector into the metal tabs that came with the motor kit’s extra connectors (positive terminal to positive terminal and negative to negative), squeezed them together with pliers and pushed them into the connector that would eventually clip onto the motor controller.

  • Note: When buying a charger, it’s critical to get the right voltage. The voltage of both the battery pack and charger should match the voltage of the motor, and the motor will tell you what this number is. If you aren’t sure, you can also calculate the charger voltage by multiplying the number of batteries in series in a module by 4.2. This means that if your module has 10 batteries in series, you will need a 42-volt charger. 

8. Finish the project. With everything in place, I used a silicone sealant to fill the rectangular hole in the battery box that I cut out for the wires to completely seal it off from the elements. Finally, I installed a luggage lock to keep the batteries safe and further secured the battery box to the cargo rack with my ratcheting straps.

How the bike has performed so far

After completing the project, I took the bike for a spin. This is by no means a fast kit, but it has decent acceleration and can reach up to around 12 mph (20 kph), according to the manufacturer. You can ride the bike under full electric power by pushing the throttle and not pedaling, or you can pedal and use the throttle at the same time. Full electric is lots of fun and requires no effort to go relatively fast. It’s definitely a rush accelerating from a standstill and just cruising on battery power, but pedaling will extend your battery life. There is no automatic pedal assist with this kit, but that just means you’ll have to decide how much motor power to add with the throttle when pedaling.

A DIY e-bike converted from a regular bike, plugged into a wall in a garage and charging.
When you’re done riding, just plug your bike in and it’ll be ready the next time you need it. William Elcock

The post Your new e-bike could already be sitting in your garage appeared first on Popular Science.

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How to make cut flowers last longer https://www.popsci.com/diy/make-flowers-last-longer/ Tue, 15 Feb 2022 13:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=425391
person holding bouquet of peonies
He loves you, he loves you not—you can't tell from a bouquet of flowers, but nice try. rock earth / Unsplash

Roses are red, violets are blue, your flowers will die, but hopefully not soon.

The post How to make cut flowers last longer appeared first on Popular Science.

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person holding bouquet of peonies
He loves you, he loves you not—you can't tell from a bouquet of flowers, but nice try. rock earth / Unsplash

Flowers are beautiful. But just as with every nugget of beauty Mother Nature has ever given us, they wither and die. So is the circle of life. 

The good news is that even if a floral arrangement is not actually part of a rooted plant anymore, you can keep the buds tight and colors vibrant for a fair amount of time. As with every living creature, caring for cut flowers is just a matter of managing and controlling basic conditions: water, food, temperature, and bacterial growth.

Water

Water is essential to all life on Earth (including you) and plays the most important role when it comes to keeping cut flowers thriving. So the first thing you need to do is make sure they’re drinking enough. 

Right after you get your bouquet, open it and use clean gardening shears or scissors to trim the stems at a 45-degree angle. This will give your flowers a larger area to drink from, and prevent them from just sitting flat at the bottom of the vase. Repeat the cut every other day to give your blooms an even longer lease on life.

[Related: How to preserve flowers in 4 easy ways]

Bouquets also usually come with a lot of ornamental greenery to make them look fuller. And while some of it serves an aesthetic purpose, you certainly don’t need all of it. Just like in, well, the world, the water in a vase is a finite resource, and the more flowers and leaves you have, the less hydrated each one will be.

When you put your flowers in the vase, remove all the leaves that sink below water level. This will also prevent rot and unwanted bacterial growth—we’ll get to that in a moment. You may continue plucking some of the remaining leaves or even remove all of them if you want to—the fewer there are, the more water the flower will receive. Then add any accompanying greenery sprig by sprig, so you know exactly how much of it you actually want to keep. 

Finally, you wouldn’t drink from a glass that has been sitting there for two days, and neither should your flowers. For truly long-lasting blossoms, change the water and give them a squeaky-clean vase every 48 to 72 hours.  

Food 

Yes, your flowers need to eat. But before you start scheduling meals for them twice a day, know that feeding your colorful bouquet is a piece of cake—or at least as sweet as one. 

While still attached to a plant, a flower feeds off of carbohydrates produced by leaves as a result of photosynthesis. When a flower is cut, there are not as many leaves to produce food for it anymore, and if you did some serious plucking, the nutrient supply will be even lower. To make up for it, add sugar. If your bouquet came with a packet of sucrose-rich flower food, make sure to read the instructions and use the right amount per volume of water. If you don’t have flower food, 2 teaspoons of sugar per quart of water will do the trick. 

In a pinch, some websites recommend adding ¼ cup of clear soda to the vase (yes, like Sprite). Just make sure it has sugar in it—diet and “zero” beverages just won’t do. You can even use a dark soda if you don’t have a clear one at hand, but it’ll definitely look a bit gross. 

Keep in mind that different types of flowers have different tolerances for added sugar. Baby’s breath, for example, needs a higher amount of sugar once the buds are open, while daffodils don’t benefit from sugary solutions at all. If you have any doubts, the University of Massachusetts Amherst put together a table with common flowers and basic indications about how much sugar they need for life in a vase.  

Prevent bacterial growth

If you’ve ever made bread or anything involving yeast, you’ll know that bacteria also love sugar. And you definitely don’t want too many of those little critters living in your vase with your flowers. 

To deter bacterial growth, there are a number of household products that, in the right proportion, will help your blossoms thrive for longer. Small quantities of chlorine bleach (as opposed to oxygen bleach) can help get rid of tiny microorganisms—just add ½ teaspoon per quart of water. The downside is that bleach rapidly degrades in the presence of water and light (like in a glass vase), so you’ll need to change the water every day instead of every two days. 

Another way to prevent bacteria from multiplying is by lowering the pH. Two tablespoons of white vinegar per quart of water will do the trick, but if you want to get really specific, the best choice is citric acid. Used in cooking and even to clean your gunky electric kettle, citric acid not only will lower the pH but will also make water travel faster in the flowers’ internal system. Getting the correct amount can be tricky, though—you’ll need a scale so you can measure out between 0.35 and 0.5 grams of citric acid per liter or quart of water.   

Temperature

It’s not rocket science—cold temperatures delay biological processes and, therefore, help preserve all kinds of things, from food to skincare products and, you guessed it: flowers. 

A good idea is to do like florists and put your bouquet in the fridge overnight to prolong its beauty—no one is going to longingly gaze upon it at 4 a.m., anyway. How feasible this is will highly depend on how much perishable food you currently have in store and the size of your arrangement. Still, there are other things you can do to help your blossoms be and stay cool.

First, there’s location—avoid placing your flowers in direct sunlight and near heat sources like long-running appliances, desk computers, and heating vents. Avoiding drafts will also help prevent dehydration. 

Then, there’s the water. Adding ice cubes to your vase will help keep the water chill for longer—bonus points if you use cold water from the fridge as well. 

And keep it away from fruit

If you’ve ever seen a bowl of fruit going bad in unison as days go by, know that it’s not because your bananas, pears, and apples made a pact to check out at the same time. It’s because of ethylene gas. 

This chemical is released by some fruits and vegetables and stimulates maturation. Plants do this too, and—you guessed it—flowers are also affected. This is why floral and fruit arrangements should never be placed close together. 

[Related: 7 edible flowers and how to use them]

But if you must, the solution may be in your bar. Alcohol, one of the main ingredients in vodka and other clear distilled beverages, is a known ethylene inhibitor. It has even been used as a drip to counteract poisoning from ethylene glycol, a toxic ingredient in antifreeze that causes kidney failure when ingested. 

The principle is the same, though proportions vary. To help your flowers fight this aging gas, add 20 milliliters (roughly 1 ¼ tablespoon) of 40 percent ABV vodka per liter or quart of water. Other clear spirits like gin, for example, may also work, but you’ll need to adjust quantities so the alcohol concentration per quart of water is no higher than 8 percent. 

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A beginner’s guide to the world of custom mechanical keyboards https://www.popsci.com/diy/mechanical-keyboard-basics/ Sun, 13 Feb 2022 14:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=425209
mechanical keyboard with rbg
The Keychron Q1 is a great choice if you want to start with an affordable, fully-assembled keyboard. Sandra Gutierrez

Linear, clicky, or tactile? There's the rub.

The post A beginner’s guide to the world of custom mechanical keyboards appeared first on Popular Science.

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mechanical keyboard with rbg
The Keychron Q1 is a great choice if you want to start with an affordable, fully-assembled keyboard. Sandra Gutierrez

Let us guess: you saw a video on TikTok of people building vibrant, delicious-sounding mechanical keyboards and thought you’d get in on the fun. But all you found online were acronyms, dense subreddits, and 10-plus-minute YouTube videos on how complicated (and expensive) homemade mechanical keyboards can be. 

Even though the community has become more welcoming to curious onlookers, it’s not easy to find basic information about the hobby. This is especially true if you haven’t given much thought to your keyboard in the first place, or if you still think the flimsy and unresponsive membrane keyboard on the MacBook Air is not that bad.  

So before you fall down an internet rabbit hole trying to figure out what the colors on switches mean, let’s talk about what you really need to know about getting or building your own customizable mechanical keyboard. Maybe you’ll figure out why people are spending hundreds of dollars on them—and even decide they’re totally worth it. 

Why are people buying mechanical keyboards?

The gaming community has been in on mechanical keyboards for a while now, as they can provide faster response times and an overall better playing experience. But if you only game on a console or only use your computer for work, you might have never wondered why people would spend money on a keyboard. Well, COVID-19 might have something to do with it. 

[Related: The best mechanical keyboards let you game, code, type, and work smoother and faster]

“Keyboards have never been considered something to invest in, but with the help of everyone staying at home, people are starting to understand that you can make a keyboard a nice tool to work with instead of something that you buy off the shelf for very cheap,” says Taeha Kim, also known as Taeha Types, a custom mechanical keyboard builder and content creator. 

In one of his videos, Taeha also points out that if we’re already spending money on more powerful machines and bigger, better displays, it makes sense to have a nice, comfortable keyboard to use with them. Especially if we’re typing most of the day, every day. 

It’s all about customization

The main difference between a customizable mechanical keyboard and more basic devices is, well, that they’re customizable. But it’s not just about switching your keycaps—the external part of the keys you actually hit with your fingers—for something more colorful or comfortable. You could customize how your keyboard sounds, how hard you have to press each key to actuate it, how much that key “fights back” with each push, how many keys you want to have, and many other characteristics. 

You can even remap your entire keyboard by erasing the default functions of any key and assigning it a completely different task. On top of that, you can include layers upon layers of macros and key combinations specific to you and your needs. 

For remapping and creating macros, you’ll need an open-sourced program called Via. This free, easy-to-use software will give you access to your keyboard’s keymap, as well as information about everything each button does. Keep in mind that you can’t use VIA without a customizable keyboard, so make sure yours is compatible. 

The anatomy of a mechanical keyboard

Because the customization possibilities are so vast, it can be easy to be overwhelmed by the number and variety of mechanical keyboard parts you can find online. But if you look at the bigger picture, a keyboard’s anatomy is not complicated at all.

Case

First, there’s the case, which is the actual body of the keyboard and can be made out of different materials, including wood. If you’re building your own mechanical keyboard, the case will always be the first thing you buy, as its size will determine the number and distribution of the keys (the form). For example, a full-sized keyboard, known as “a 100 percent,” will include a row of function (Fn) keys at the top, a numerical keypad on the right, and other useful buttons like “page down,” “home,” and “delete.” A 75 percent is what you see on most home laptop models, including the MacBook family, and there are even 55 percents, which essentially only include letters and other basic keys such as “return” and “control.”

The PCB and the plate

Inside the case, there are two parts: the printed circuit board (PCB) and the plate. The former is your keyboard’s brain, connects to your computer, and holds your switches (we’ll get to those in a moment). The plate, on the other hand, sits on top of the PCB and protects it from the elements—you can catch glimpses of it between your keycaps. But because the plate is in direct contact with the keycaps, it also provides part of the delicious sound we all want and love in a mechanical keyboard. Plates come in different materials, like brass, aluminum, or carbon fiber, and each material sounds different when hit with various keycaps. 

Switches

The most intricate part of a keyboard may be the switches, and they are by far what confuse newcomers the most. In broad terms, switches are the buttons under the keycaps. They connect to the PCB through two or three copper connectors, and they’re mostly responsible for giving your keyboard a specific feel and sound. In general, you’ll find three main categories: linear, tactile, and clicky. The first one provides no feedback when it’s actuated or when the key is actually registered by your computer, while the second one provides tactile feedback (a little bump), and the third makes an extra click. 

Although the industry and some people in the community have associated each type of switch to specific user profiles (linears are for gamers, clickies are for typists, etc), Taeha is adamant that your experience is unique to you.

“These are tools to get a certain task done. And everyone has different preferences. It’s just about finding the one that fits your needs,” he says.

Finding the right set of switches for you might take a while, and it’s critical that you try them—you can learn so much more from a hands-on experience than by reading any review. But before you order a couple sets, you might want to get a switch tester. These small boards come with different types of switches for you to try, and you can find them for as little as $7, depending on their size and where you buy them. 

Still, testers won’t give you the full experience, so going to community events is a great way to get to know and try what’s out there. Taeha recommends you search for local groups of enthusiasts around you and check for any upcoming meetings. Keep in mind that these gatherings have become more and more scarce due to COVID, so you may have to wait a bit.

Keycaps

Finally, there are keycaps—the most visible part of your keyboard along with your case, and definitely the part where you can have the most fun. There are many types of keycaps, and the sky’s the limit when it comes to design—you can find them in colorful palettes, and even shaped like a cat’s paw pads

Changing your keycaps may be the easiest customization you can do to your keyboard. They’ll change its look, provide a new tactile experience, and different profiles can even change the way you type. To swap out your keycaps, you’ll only need a tool called a keycap puller. And don’t forget to take a picture of your keyboard’s original layout before you start yanking it apart—it’ll help you immensely when you put your board back together. 

Be aware of compatibility

Unfortunately, there are not a lot of manufacturing standards when it comes to keyboard parts. Every time you buy a new plate, set of switches, or keycaps, you’ll need to do your research and make sure the item you’re interested in is compatible with the setup you have at home. 

It all starts with the type of keyboard you’re dealing with. There are two options available: hot-swappable and soldered. The former allows you to swap switches easily with only a switch puller, whereas the latter requires a soldering iron and some advanced skill to make any significant customization to how your keyboard feels and sounds. 

Likewise, not all keycaps will fit your switches, and not all switches will fit into your PCB. Different colored switches also mean different things depending on the brand, so we cannot stress enough the importance of doing your homework before buying. Not doing so will likely result in both wasted money and much frustration. Even though massive online marketplaces like Amazon will have much of what you’ll need to build your keyboard, you’ll need to dig deeper if you want something slightly more unique or better quality. And because the hobby is driven mostly by small and local manufacturers, many of which fund their operations on Kickstarter, waiting months or even a year for a part to arrive is not uncommon, Taeha explains. 

“That’s how you have access to more intricate and nuanced designs that might not be possible with mass production,” he says. “But you’re going to need a lot of patience.” 

It’s OK to start small 

If you’re intimidated, you’re not alone. There’s a lot of information out there and it’s easy to get dizzy. Plus, customizable mechanical keyboards and their parts are not exactly cheap, so this is not a buy-the-materials-and-figure-things-out-later kind of hobby.

Taeha recommends beginners start by getting a fully assembled keyboard and playing around with it by changing some of the parts. Eventually, you’ll get the hang of it and end up with either a highly customized board or the thirst of going for more. And if you want to go all-in from the get-go and build a board from scratch, you’ll need to plan ahead. 

[Related: 20 essential Windows keyboard shortcuts that will make you forget your mouse]

“Anything between $150 and $200 is a great budget for your first build,” Taeha says. “You can end up with a nice keyboard you can upgrade later if you want.”

Still, he stresses the importance of research and recommends taking advantage of the current boom of mechanical keyboard content on platforms such as YouTube and TikTok. 

“The best way to get into it at the moment is to just consume a lot of content,” he says. He also recommends diving into the r/MechanicalKeyboards subreddit and the old-looking but still fully functional geekhack.org. There you’ll find more nuanced information and details on parts and building, and even get in on the crowdsourcing, kick-starting, group-buying fun.  

The post A beginner’s guide to the world of custom mechanical keyboards appeared first on Popular Science.

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Yes, you can overuse grow lights on indoor plants https://www.popsci.com/diy/grow-lights-for-plants/ Tue, 08 Feb 2022 20:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=424228
An LED grow light illuminating a plant's leaf and turning it a shade of purple.
Bask in the glow, but not for too long. Nikkytok / Depositphotos

Plants can't gorge on artificial sunlight forever.

The post Yes, you can overuse grow lights on indoor plants appeared first on Popular Science.

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An LED grow light illuminating a plant's leaf and turning it a shade of purple.
Bask in the glow, but not for too long. Nikkytok / Depositphotos

Growing plants can seem intimidating, but we believe anyone can create a thriving home conservatory of any size. We’re here to help nurture your skills and help make that happen, so please feel free to send any plant-related questions of your own to ask@popsci.com with “Plants” in the subject line.

You are not a god. You can’t control the weather. There’s rain, sleet, snow, all without your consent. Your personal preference doesn’t influence the intensity of the sun. 

But your houseplants don’t know that. 

Part of the joy of having indoor plants is that you can regulate their environment. One of the most important tools in your arsenal is the grow light: a fake sun, standing in for the real thing during cloudy winter days. It also solves the broader problem of houseplants that demand “full sun,” which by definition does not exist inside a building. With the advent of increasingly affordable and high-quality LED plant lights, you can manufacture that sunshine without the nuclear fusion reactions.

How to properly use grow lights

I moved from San Francisco to Brooklyn this past fall, and it’s been a tough winter for my succulents. They were used to living outside, in 50- to 70-degree temperatures (10 to 20 degrees Celsius), with constant cool fog and partial sun. In California, they flaunted the colors that indicate succulent happiness, blushing with purples and pinks, but in New York they faded and stretched out in their search for light. They needed some restorative rays.

A few months ago, I received two Ankace LED grow lights as a gift. They each have four flexible light sticks equipped with LED lights. I use a mix of blue and red lights, which give plants more energy and provide my apartment a fun purple tint. And I’m glad I got those instead of conventional bulbs, since LEDs use less energy and produce less heat. I hoped these new lights could return my suffering succulents to their former glow and began to use them daily—sometimes forgetting to turn them off. Endless light energy translates to endless chemical energy and thriving plants, right? 

No, says Tim Pollak, outdoor floriculturist at the Chicago Botanic Garden. “Plants need a day and a night,” he says.

Plants don’t sleep, technically, but they do change their behavior based on their circadian rhythms. “During the day, plants soak up sunlight during photosynthesis, the process they use to get energy,” writes science journalist Brooke Borel. “But when the sun goes down, plants’ opportunity to eat disappears and other physiological processes take over, including energy metabolism and growth.”

While you probably don’t want to leave your grow lights on indefinitely, you also don’t need to match the short winter daylight hours. John Morse, director of horticulture at Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden, lets his houseplants bask under grow lights for between 15 and 18 hours a day. Pollak, meanwhile, suggested a minimum of 12 to 14 hours for my succulents on overcast days. Following that advice, I’ve started turning my grow lights on at 7 a.m., when I wake up, and off around 9 p.m. My succulents haven’t regained their California colorings, but they do look a little healthier.   

Your use of grow lights will depend on your latitude and what kind of plants you have. And if you haven’t already acquired some, consider adjustable lights, so you can move them away as the plants grow. Doing so is especially useful if you’re trying to germinate seeds, as Pollak often does at the Chicago Botanic Garden.

However you use them, grow lights give you power over a fundamental force of nature. And, of course, the ability to keep your succulents alive on your windowsill over the winter. 

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Save money by making your own dishwasher tablets https://www.popsci.com/story/diy/make-diy-dishwasher-detergent-tablets/ Wed, 29 Jan 2020 17:00:36 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/uncategorized/make-diy-dishwasher-detergent-tablets/
Hand loading dishwasher
Say goodbye to smelly dishwashers. alexraths via Deposit Photos

Keep ’em clean, keep ’em shiny.

The post Save money by making your own dishwasher tablets appeared first on Popular Science.

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Hand loading dishwasher
Say goodbye to smelly dishwashers. alexraths via Deposit Photos

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Washing dishes is awful. It’s the kind of chore that never ends—pretty much every time you eat or drink, you make something dirty. Thankfully, a woman named Josephine Cochrane, who was really concerned about her fancy china getting chipped while being hand-washed, stepped up and invented the first dishwasher.

More than 100 years have passed since Cochrane revolutionized kitchen cleanup and got people hand-cranking their dishes clean. Now, other than the brainpower and Tetris skill you need to load the machine, you’ve only got to put some detergent in the soap compartment and press “start.”

Sure, Cochrane’s invention saves you time, but you still have to buy detergent. Make your own dishwasher tablets, though, and you’ll save some money. It’s easy, makes cleaning up a bit more exciting, and will leave your most likely not-so-fancy china shiny and smelling of fresh lemon… or whatever you want.

Stats

  • Time: 20 minutes (with a minimum 24-hour drying period)
  • Material cost: $27 ($5.40 per batch—or $0.14 per pod)
  • Difficulty: easy

Materials (for approximately 40 tablets)

Tools

Instructions

1. Mix all dry ingredients. In a bowl, mix the baking soda, citric acid, sodium percarbonate, and (if you want) the salt.

Baking soda is known for being a powerful cleaner, degreaser, and odor neutralizer. It will not only help get rid of the dirt on your dishes, but will also keep your machine from smelling funky. Sodium percarbonate, or washing soda, is a kind of oxygen bleach, and it’s the active ingredient in products such as OxyBoost. It cleans, disinfects, and it’s highly soluble in water, which means it’s also environmentally friendly. Citric acid is also a powerful cleaner and, by itself, will do a great job disinfecting your washing machine, your dishwasher, and even your electric kettle. Finally, salt—if you choose to use it—will help get rid of the lime in hard water. Adding it to your tablets will help keep the tubes in your machine clean and clog-free.

If you’re using your hands to mix the ingredients, put on disposable gloves—sodium percarbonate is hard on the skin. It produces a prickling sensation that can be annoying, even though it goes away after you thoroughly wash your hands with water and soap. If you want to avoid this altogether, you can always use a spoon or spatula. Make sure you mix the ingredients well—baking soda tends to form clumps, so break those apart as much as possible.

  • Note: If washed and rinsed thoroughly afterward, any tool you use to make dishwashing tablets can be used for eating or cooking. But if you want to keep making these or other household cleaners, I’d recommend you get tools that will be used exclusively for this purpose.

2. Slowly add the vinegar. This will cause a chemical reaction, and your mix will start to foam (fun!). Keep adding vinegar and folding the mixture until you have created a paste.

The combination of baking soda and white vinegar results in sodium acetate, which acts as a brightening agent and makes your dishes shine.

Bowl with white substance
Have fun with this grown-up version of the volcano you made for science class back in middle school. Sandra Gutierrez G

3. Add the essential oil. The go-to essential oil for this project is lemon, mainly because it’s a shining agent and has disinfectant properties. (There’s a reason why it’s the most common smell in dishwashing detergent.) But if lemon is not your thing, you can always have some fun and mix and match a variety of essential oils. Some alternatives with great disinfectant properties are:

4. Fill the ice cube trays with the paste. The amount of tablets you make will depend on the size and depth of your cube trays. Keep in mind that your tablets must fit into your dishwasher’s detergent compartment, so don’t use a tray that makes blocks bigger than that. Once your trays are full, press the paste down so it’s as compact as possible. Add more if necessary.

Silicone ice cube trays filled with detergent
I made the mistake of overfilling the green and purple trays, which made it that much harder to unmold the tablets when they were dry. When you fill your trays, make sure the silicone separators are all visible (like in the blue tray on the right). Sandra Gutierrez G

5. Let the tablets sit for 24 hours. Check on them and make sure they’re dry before you unmold. If they’re not, give them another 12 to 24 hours. When they’re dry, take the tablets out and store them in a plastic or glass container with a lid. Make sure to keep it away from animals and children.

  • Note: The consistency of these detergent cubes will never be as hard or compact as store-bought tablets—no matter how long you let them dry for. They’ll retain their shape to make it easier to put them into the detergent compartment of your dishwasher, but if you squeeze them, they might break or crumble. This will not affect their efficiency, so if any of your tablets fall apart, just place all the pieces in the soap compartment and start your machine.

6. Use your tablets as you would store-bought ones. If you want extra-shiny dishes, you can also place a bowl with a half-cup of white vinegar inside the dishwasher along with the rest of your dirty dishes.

Hand holding dishwasher tablet
One little tablet, a whole lot of clean dishes. Sandra Gutierrez G

I use my tablets as-is (no vinegar) and they work wonders. What I like most is that my dishwasher doesn’t slap me in the face with that funky smell whenever I open it, and my so-not-fancy dishes are literally squeaky clean. The fact that you won’t be throwing more unnecessary plastic packaging into the world is a great added bonus, and even though you’ll need to make a couple of batches before you start saving serious money, I think we all can agree that any savings is good savings.

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Redesign your bedroom for a better night’s sleep https://www.popsci.com/diy/bedroom-design-better-sleep/ Wed, 02 Feb 2022 21:39:38 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=423311
A blonde woman in a white bathrobe smiling and lying on a white bed in a blue room.
The face of someone who has slept well. Dominic Sansotta / Unsplash

Make your room of rest the very best.

The post Redesign your bedroom for a better night’s sleep appeared first on Popular Science.

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A blonde woman in a white bathrobe smiling and lying on a white bed in a blue room.
The face of someone who has slept well. Dominic Sansotta / Unsplash

Every new year brings with it the urge to start fresh, make resolutions we won’t keep, and clean out that closet that avalanches every time we open it. But one weekend redesigning your bedroom can have benefits that last the whole year—maybe longer.

The most recent nationwide data we have on sleep is from 2014, but it shows 35 percent of us aren’t getting the recommended seven hours. And there’s reason to believe that the COVID-19 pandemic and other stressors have made that problem worse. Research also shows bedroom environmental conditions affect the severity of sleep disorders such as obstructive sleep apnea. A few simple changes should have you dozing off faster in no time.

Play Tetris with your furniture, windows, and doors

Making everything look like an Insta-friendly bedroom is one thing. Choosing the best possible layout for sleeping is another. In a Sleep Junkie survey of 1,064 people, the setup most associated with restful sleep involved centering the headboard against one wall, positioning the bed near a window to the left or right of the bed, with the door on the opposite sidewall. The three least-liked setups all involved the door in line with the foot of the bed. Maybe we are all scared of sitting up and seeing the boogie man creeping in, and direct sight of the door is anxiety-inducing? But despite certain patterns, the percentages of people who associated each layout with a good night’s sleep did not vary too widely. This suggests there’s more at play than “one layout to rule them all.”

Rizwana Sultana, a pediatric sleep medicine specialist and assistant professor at the University of Texas Medical Branch at Galveston, says the design of your bedroom should be tailored specifically to you.[Use] a design which appeals to you, feels comfortable, and provides a sense of calm,” Sultana says. So if you feel most comfortable staring straight into the eyes of whoever (or whatever) enters your room, set your bed up right in front of the door. But before you move anything, take some time to think about what you like and don’t like about your current arrangement and why it makes you feel that way.

Don’t forget to consider what’s outside your bedroom, too. Drew and Jonathan Scott, stars of HGTV’s The Property Brothers, recommend against arranging your bed facing an eastern window, to prevent sunlight from waking you up too early. In addition, if you have a shared wall, move your headboard away from it to “put as much distance between your ears and your neighbors,” Drew says.

Get your paintbrush ready

As you browse Pinterest for the perfect combination of bedroom colors, consider the science behind color and catching Z’s. Scientists have well-established the connection between color choice and sleep, and one study found that participants sleeping in a room with colors they liked helped them fall asleep faster. Additional research proved university students felt much more calm inhabiting blue areas, which could help them relax and rest. The students also chose lighter versions of each color for interior spaces than they would for other settings and preferred white ceilings, which the researchers connected to feeling like the room was taller.

“Blues and greens create a comforting, relaxing environment that will give you the best opportunity at a deep, full night’s sleep. However, if you’re in a room that struggles for natural light, you might consider a lighter hue like lavender,” Jonathan Scott says. Drew adds that you should avoid dramatic colors like yellow and red, and notes that they are hard to style and coordinate with furniture as well. 

[Related: 5 great spots for LED strip lights around your home]

If repainting a bedroom seems overwhelming, consider integrating these calming colors into your decor instead, and you can even use lavender as a calming scent for bedtime too.

Rethink window coverings

While you might be obsessed with a specific curtain pattern, it’s more important to design your room specifically to control lighting. That’s because the relationship between great sleep and a dark room goes much deeper than “wake up when it’s light and fall asleep when it’s dark.” Instead, light helps maintain our circadian rhythms—our internal clocks that tell us it’s bedtime or wake time—and affects melatonin production in our bodies. If you are hoping to rise with the sun and fall asleep at sundown, exposure to only natural light is important. However, too much artificial light can hurt our health, misaligning our circadian rhythms. Poor circadian rhythm management is even associated with health conditions such as mental illness. 

To create the perfect lighting settings in your room, Jonathan Scott recommends layered window coverings, which he says will help you adapt to light changes throughout the seasons. “Pair sheer shades with blackout curtains for maximum light coverage,” he says. For example, when you notice the sun rising earlier and you are waking before your alarm clock, you can pull the blackout curtains closed before bed to prevent an early morning. Conversely, if you are enjoying some moonlight trickling in during the dark winter mornings, you can just use the sheer shades.

Ditch your phone for an old-fashioned alarm clock

It might seem impossible to rid your bedroom of cell phones, but scientists have explored how blue light might interfere with our circadian rhythms, hence all those warnings you’ve seen about eliminating your bedtime doomscrolling or Netflix binging routine. To commit to de-teching your bedroom (in addition to your trusty blue light glasses) leave phones on a small table outside the room so you can still hear them ring in case of emergencies, but can’t easily reach them—midnight scrolling can make it harder to fall asleep. If you’re worried about waking up on time, switch to a traditional alarm clock but make sure the artificial light isn’t too bright. 

[Related: The world needs dark skies more than ever. Here’s why.]

You can also cut blue light out of your life altogether by setting an alarm to turn off electronics an hour before bedtime and/or enacting the screen time limitations built into your phone. If you aren’t comfortable being far from your phone overnight or want to work your way up to leaving it out of the room, you can also silence notifications or put it deep inside a bedside drawer instead.

Declutter and give yourself some extra space

Few things are more frustrating than moving piles of laundry from the bed, to a chair, to the floor, and back again every day (and tripping over them at night). That frustration stays with you: “An uncluttered room can give a sense of spaciousness and one can unwind easily,” Sultana says. The same Sleep Junkie study we mentioned earlier revealed that 73 percent of people with a clean bedroom said they slept well, compared to 53 percent of people in messy bedrooms who reported they slept well. So try a five-minute tidying up spree, including making your bed, to see how that works for you. 

Ensuring there’s room for everything, whether it goes into a closet or under-the-bed storage, can go a long way to keeping things clean, Jonathan Scott says, joking that your layout should be able to accommodate a little sleep walking. “Give yourself plenty of room to be able to get into and get out of bed, too,” he says. “This is the one room of your house where you might be tempted to walk through it half-asleep, in the dark. The design needs to be as forgiving as possible.” It may also be worth finding ways to get bigger items off the floor—if you have a TV in the room, Drew recommends hanging it on the wall instead of placing it on a bulky stand or console.

If none of this works after remodeling to your heart’s content, all of our experts say you are just going to need a more comfortable bed. And if that still doesn’t work, you should consider talking to your doctor about insomnia.

The post Redesign your bedroom for a better night’s sleep appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

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Get your kids’ hearts beating by teaching them to cross-country ski https://www.popsci.com/diy/cross-country-skiing-kids/ Fri, 28 Jan 2022 00:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=422536
A child cross-country skiing on a snowy field near some round, tree-covered mountains.
Just because you won't be speeding downhill doesn't mean you won't be having fun. J G D / Unsplash

The flat white plains welcome you.

The post Get your kids’ hearts beating by teaching them to cross-country ski appeared first on Popular Science.

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A child cross-country skiing on a snowy field near some round, tree-covered mountains.
Just because you won't be speeding downhill doesn't mean you won't be having fun. J G D / Unsplash

Winds whipped the frigid peaks above Woodstock, Vermont, and I prepared myself to potentially ruin my young daughter’s day. As much as she loves downhill skiing, that simply wasn’t going to happen—hitting the slopes felt like we’d be risking frostbite to most of our toes. Closer to sea level, conditions were calmer and warmer, but I doubted she’d enjoy the slower speed and greater effort of cross-country skiing. 

Still, she and I drove to the Woodstock Nordic Center. A golf course outside of winter, the snow chases away golfers and the links lend themselves, along with the surrounding woods, to Nordic skiers. Despite her initial surprise at the heel-less bindings, she was excited to stab at the snow with her poles—tools most young skiers forgo in alpine.

We aimed to complete an easy and mostly flat mile-long trail, looping around the golf course. The path began with a hill, which meant she’d have little control at the start of our voyage. I worried my daughter would hate how she couldn’t pizza-stop as easily, and how she’d dread using her strength to cross flat ground. To my delight, however, she loved it, appreciating the sport for both the quality of exercise and the fun. Even the fun of falling.

“I could have done that for a whole year without stopping,” she said after our return to the Woodstock Inn, where a few artifacts of the sport hung on the wall. She studied the old skis, the way a young slugger might marvel at a Babe Ruth bat in Cooperstown.

Ultimately, my change of plans paid off, but if you’d rather ease a child into cross-country skiing, there are several ways to get them excited to try this invigorating sport.

When kids should start cross-country skiing

I decided to introduce my oldest daughter to cross-country skiing at eight, but I refused to take my five-year-old along. Reese Brown, the executive director of the Cross Country Ski Areas Association, recommends the sport to kids as soon as they can walk. A few years ago, I had a similar philosophy to Brown’s, but for downhill skiing. When my youngest was two, I put her on downhill skis and it took five instructors equipped with pool noodles to get my crying toddler down the hill. She rejected winter activities—everything from sledding to making snow angels—for the next three years.

But cross-country skiing is much different than alpine: “The barriers to entry for cross country skiing are very low, and the experience is much more user friendly,” Brown says.

Ski right out the front door

On a snowy day in my neighborhood, I often opt to ski out the front door instead of loading my skis into the car to find better terrain in the woods and at the nearby golf course. There’s a small window between the time the snow gets packed down in the streets and when the plow comes through to reveal the asphalt. But I try to venture out into the neighborhood on skis so my kids can see how accessible and novel the sport can be. Now that my daughter is a fan of the sport, she’s looking forward to joining me on a lap around the neighborhood once I get her a pair of skis.

Put downhill skis to more use

Last winter, when lift tickets had sold out because of COVID restrictions at most mountains, I realized I was not going to get my money’s worth for my daughter’s downhill ski rentals. To avoid feeling like I’d squandered the rental fee, I brought her and her alpine skis to our local golf course, tied a long rope through the belt loops of my ski pants, and towed her along, venturing deep into the park. Together, we skied down hills and through untouched powder—her first experience riding fresh snow.

If you’re towing a kid behind you, make sure the rope is double the length of your poles, as you don’t want to spear your offspring. For better protection, kids should wear their ski goggles and parents should never swing back their poles, which, for the most part, stay low and aren’t a real hazard.

Get a pulk

If you’ve ever seen a parent jogging with their infant in a runner’s stroller, a pulk is the cross-country-skiing equivalent. This carrier attaches to the skier—usually their hips—and gets pulled like a horse-drawn carriage. It’s a good way to inculcate toddlers on the joys of the sport.

Buy proper gloves

While most gear that works well for downhill is appropriate for cross-country skiing, things get a little trickier with gloves. A bulky mitten might make it difficult for kids to properly grip the poles, so you’re better off with gloves that are comfortable, warm, weatherproof, and allow for good dexterity. If you’re not ready to splurge on quality gloves that are good for cross-country skiing, shove extra pairs of inferior gloves into your pockets for when your kid’s hands get soaked.

Pick interesting terrain

Golf courses offer both flat stretches and the option for terrain that rolls and dips straight into snow-covered sand traps. Crossing wooden bridges without railings over a partially frozen river can make the sport feel like an epic adventure. Venturing into the serene, picturesque woods can transform the experience exponentially.

Create a scavenger hunt

In Stowe, Vermont, the Spruce Peak Outfitters sets up a wintertime scavenger hunt in the forest for kids, asking them to search for gnomes and other unnaturally placed items. While you don’t have to run through the forest setting up gnomes and wintry baubles in advance of a cross-country ski outing, you can create a nature-based scavenger hunt card and have kids check off cool finds, like red cardinals on a snowy branch, an evergreen, or that elusive dropped mitten.

Get inspired by a quest

The night before a cross-country excursion, sit down with a Tolkien tale or queue up an exciting film. The Empire Strikes Back, for example, features Luke Skywalker riding a wooly tauntaun on the ice planet of Hoth. A few minutes of that film before a ski outing can transform any snowy, barren landscape into the search for the Rebel Alliance’s Echo Base.

The post Get your kids’ hearts beating by teaching them to cross-country ski appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

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The gear you need to turn a regular bike into an e-bike https://www.popsci.com/diy/e-bike-conversion-gear/ Sun, 23 Jan 2022 14:00:00 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=421738
An electric mountain bike on a hillside at sunset.
Just look at how majestic this e-bike looks. juergen-polle / Pixabay

A bike, but more so.

The post The gear you need to turn a regular bike into an e-bike appeared first on Popular Science.

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An electric mountain bike on a hillside at sunset.
Just look at how majestic this e-bike looks. juergen-polle / Pixabay

E-bikes are essentially regular bicycles with electric motors that allow riders to use pure leg power, pedal with assistance from the motor, or rely completely on the electric motor. Thanks to this motor, e-bikes are easier to ride and their owners can zip around without expending much energy (or burning gallons of gasoline). Commuters can travel to work without sweating much and shoppers can easily carry their purchases home with them.

Despite the many benefits to owning an e-bike, the average price of one is quite high; resting between $2,000 and $3,000, according to the National Conference of State Legislatures. But with a little work, you can convert your existing non-electric bicycle into an e-bike, allowing you to reap the same benefits for a fraction of the cost.

Anatomy of a converted e-bike

At a basic level, a bicycle is made up of two wheels, a frame, pedals, handlebars, and a chain. For the most basic of e-bike conversions, you’ll need to add an electric motor and batteries to the mix. More advanced kits will have a pedal assist sensor, magnetic brake cut-off switches, and an on-board computer. Here’s a brief description of what these additional components do:

  • Pedal-assist sensor: Detects when you’re pedaling, and turns on the electric motor after it detects a predetermined level of pedaling intensity.
  • Magnetic brake cut-off switches: Located on each brake lever, these cut power to the electric motor when you brake. 
  • Bike computer: Displays information such as the battery’s current charge state and how fast you’re going.

Choosing the right electric motor for your e-bike conversion

In many places, there is a limit on how fast you can ride an e-bike on public roads. In the US, the top speed of an e-bike is typically capped at around 20 mph (32 kph). Check your local regulations when purchasing your e-bike motor to ensure that you don’t buy one that will make your conversion project illegal where you live and ride.

Once that’s done, the right motor for your bike depends on a few things: whether you have a mountain bike, road bike, or hybrid bike; your bicycle’s current brake setup; and how much you’re willing to spend. With all that in mind, you have four types of motors to choose from.

Mid-mounted motor

As its name suggests, a mid-mounted motor is mounted in the middle of the bicycle frame, between the pedals. This provides a low center of gravity and the feel of a traditional bike. The position of the motor means its weight isn’t as noticeable. Its central placement away from the wheels also means tire repairs will be easier—the other types of motors tend to get in the way of tire changes. It’s also attached to the bike’s gearing system, leading to longer, more efficient rides per charge if you use pedal assist. But while its excellent weight distribution makes a mid-mounted motor the best choice for road cyclists, this type does have some drawbacks. For one, it is more expensive (usually from $275 to $400). Its low mounting location also increases its risk of hitting obstacles, which could cause issues for riders who want to take their bikes off-road.

Side-mounted motor

This type of motor is usually bolted to the left wheel of the bicycle (on the opposite side of the gearing sprockets). It’s a simple setup where the motor drives the rear wheel using a secondary chain. This is the cheapest motor option (around $86 to $165), and while it won’t result in the fastest e-bike, it will get the job done. If you want to cut down on cost, this is the motor for you.

Rear-wheel hub motor

These motors are integrated into the hub of the rear wheel. Installation will be more complicated because you’ll need to remove the gear cassette to take off the wheel and attach the motor. With that said, the overall ride quality is generally better with a rear-wheel hub motor than with a front-wheel hub motor. With a front-wheel hub motor, there is a risk of traction problems. Hub motors also tend to be brushless, so they typically perform better than brushed motors (common in side-mounted motor kits). Rear-wheel hub motors are also a little more stealthy in terms of aesthetics since they are hidden by the gear cassette. The price range of a rear-wheel hub motor is between that of a side mounted motor and a mid-mounted motor (ranging from $183 to $240).

Front-wheel hub motor

This setup is similar to a rear-wheel hub motor, but the motor is integrated into the front wheel’s hub. They allow for easier repairs than rear-wheel hub motors since you don’t have to worry about moving the chain out of the way when making repairs. These motors are also usually brushless. Like rear-wheel hub motors, front-wheel hub motors go for between $183 and $240.

L-faster on AliExpress is a good source of e-bike motor kits (not including batteries), and Battery Clearing House has great deals on wheel hub motor kits since they source them from bikes that were previously used commercially. Also, feel free to peruse Amazon and Aliexpress for kits since there are usually solid prices on kits from these two sources.

How to select batteries for your e-bike conversion

These days, with the proliferation of electric scooters, electric bicycles, electric skateboards, and other electric modes of transportation, batteries are readily available. There are many to choose from, but lithium-ion batteries are the best choice for an e-bike conversion. The easiest way to get your hands on some is to use battery modules that were intended to be used with one of the electric transportation devices mentioned earlier. Some retailers even sell used batteries that are in excellent condition.

[Related: One tell-tale sign it’s time to replace your laptop battery]

Since motors usually are rated for 24, 36, or 48 volts, you will need a battery module that has a matching voltage. When buying battery modules, you have the option to get multiple battery packs with this voltage, and you can connect multiple packs with the required voltage to increase the capacity of your final battery module.

While it is possible to assemble a battery module from individual 18650 lithium-ion battery cells, this is complicated and will require spot welding and buying a battery management system. It’s much easier to purchase a pre-assembled pack from a website such as AliExpress or Battery Hookup. However, if you have the skills and are up for the challenge, EBikeSchool.com has an excellent tutorial on how to build your own battery pack if you’re interested in making one from scratch. The batteries within a battery pack, or group, are wired in series, and these groups are then wired in parallel to create a single module.

Don’t forget: You will also need a charger to go along with your batteries. You can use the following equation to determine the voltage of the charger you need:

Number of batteries in series in a single battery pack x 4.2 volts = charger voltage

This means that for a 24-volt battery pack, which uses groups of seven, 3.7-volt 18650 lithium-ion batteries in series, you will need a 29.4-volt charger. For a 36-volt module, which uses 10 such cells in series, you will need a 42-volt charger. Finally, for a 48-volt battery module, which uses groups of 13 18650 cells in series, you will need a 54.6-volt charger. 

You can buy chargers on sites like Amazon or AliExpress. Check these postings for the most common battery configurations: 

You will also need to think about where you want to mount your e-bike battery. These are the options:

  • Rear cargo rack: If your bike doesn’t already have one of these, you can install one and mount your batteries there. However, this could negatively affect the handling of your bike, especially if the motor is mounted in the back as well—the added weight of the batteries shifts the bicycle’s center of gravity more toward the rear.
  • Triangle mount: For bikes with hard tails, there is a relatively large triangular space between the bike’s frame tubes. You can buy a triangle frame bag to put your batteries in and hang in this area. This spot is a good option if you want to maintain a reasonable center of balance. 
  • Top tube mount: This is yet another option for not offsetting the center of balance of your bike too much. There are bags available that you can mount to your bike’s top tube. You can easily store your batteries in one of these bags.

The bike you build determines how far you’ll go

There are a few factors that determine the range of an e-bike. The battery capacity certainly matters, but so do your speed, the terrain, your weight, and the type of tires you’re using.

These factors naturally vary between different owners and bikes. Since we’re talking about a DIY project here, it’s hard to say what the exact range will be. But if you get a battery with a capacity of more than 300 watt-hours, you should have a range of roughly 15 miles (24 kilometers). Every mile (1.6 kilometers) should use up about 20 watt-hours.

With this knowledge in mind, you’re well on your way to building a DIY e-bike that will get you where you need to go in a sustainable, enjoyable way. Putting it together is only the beginning.

Update, January 26, 2022: An earlier version of this story was unclear about how the batteries are connected. We have updated the story to clarify.

The post The gear you need to turn a regular bike into an e-bike appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

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Tune your table saw up the right way https://www.popsci.com/diy/how-to-tune-up-table-saw/ Fri, 21 Jan 2022 23:17:26 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=421680
A table saw blade tuned up and straightened to exactly vertical at 90 degrees.
A perfect 90 degrees. So satisfying. Jean Levasseur

Ensure 90-degree cuts with some simple maintenance.

The post Tune your table saw up the right way appeared first on Popular Science.

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A table saw blade tuned up and straightened to exactly vertical at 90 degrees.
A perfect 90 degrees. So satisfying. Jean Levasseur

A table saw is one of the most useful and versatile tools in any workshop. A good one makes straight cuts fast and easy, and if you venture into building or buying jigs, you can cut joinery, straighten board edges, and even cut coves in boards. But like any tool, table saws require routine maintenance. Over time, parts of your saw may start to drift out of alignment, and those straight lines and right angles you’ve taken for granted will become less so. 

Fortunately, a return to square is a relatively quick process and requires only a few tools. In about an hour, you can get your table saw back to—or better than—factory quality.

But before we get into the specifics of exactly how to tune up a table saw, I’ll note that I have the Dewalt 7491RS job site table saw, so all of my specifics are based on that tool. Most saws have similar adjustments, but check your manual if you have any questions about your saw.

Stats

  • Time: about an hour
  • Material cost: $25 to $50
  • Difficulty: Easy

Tools

Materials

Instructions

1. Unplug your saw. A plugged-in table saw is a dangerous table saw. Never work on your saw, or any tool, while it has any connection to power. You don’t want to risk an electric shock or accidentally turning the saw on when your hands are in the danger zone. 

2. Remove the throat plate and blade. First, raise the blade as high as it will go, and then remove the throat plate. This is the piece the blade juts out of, and there should be a locking screw holding the plate in place. Simply unlock the screw and pull it up. Then loosen and remove the arbor nut to take off the blade, using the wrenches that came with your saw.

  • Note: The arbor nut holds the blade in place, and you may have to turn it right instead of left to get it off. This type of reverse threading keeps it tight while the blade spins.

3. Clean the arbor and surrounding gears. Sawdust collects just about everywhere in a table saw, and can impede performance over time. Using a brush, compressed air, and a shop vac, clean all of the sawdust out of the arbor (the shaft that holds the blade), arbor nut, and drive gears. On many saws, you can reach these from the top, but you may get better access by crawling underneath. If you’re feeling motivated, or your saw is particularly dirty, you can take off the motor and belts to more thoroughly clean around them. If you do remove any belts or drive systems, take at least one photo beforehand so you have a reference for how to put it all back together. 

  • Pro tip: If you have areas with stubborn pitch or residue, try using mineral spirits as a cleaning agent. 

4. Lubricate the arbor and gears. Once these areas are sawdust-free, lubricate them liberally, per your manufacturer’s instructions. I use a spray-on “dry” lubricant. Then reinstall the blade and throat plate.

5. Clean and lubricate the other gears. Once the engine and drive gears are clean, move on to the ones that control the height of the blade, as well as those that let you adjust your fence, if applicable. Scrub them free of any sawdust and residue with your brush, air compressor, and mineral spirits as needed. Once they’re clean and moving easily, lubricate them, working the gears back and forth to ensure that all of the teeth are well coated. 

[Related: Up your table saw game by building this floating key organizer]

6. Set the blade to 90 degrees. Getting a perfect right angle between your tabletop and saw blade is the most important adjustment you can make. Cuts made at more or less than 90 degrees won’t fit tightly together, and can result in projects that are all but impossible to square up. Fortunately, this is a relatively easy fix. 

The best way to check your blade alignment is with a digital angle gauge. Simply place the gauge on your tabletop and zero it. Then hold the gauge against the fully-raised saw blade, avoiding any of the teeth if possible. The gauge will display the angle of your blade in relation to the tabletop. 

If you don’t have a digital angle gauge, you can use a speed square. Set the flat of the square against the tabletop and press the other edge against the blade. If you can see daylight between the two at the top or bottom, you don’t have a 90-degree angle. 

Actually adjusting the blade is simple: Tilt the blade with the bevel adjustment until the digital gauge reads 90, and lock it in place. This is now the new position of your 90-degree angle. Then use an allen wrench or screwdriver to point the bevel marker at the “0-degree” dash. Now whenever you return the blade to zero, it will form a 90-degree angle to the table top. 

7. Adjust the bevel stops, if you have them. Many table saws have bevel stops, which are pieces of metal that allow you to push the bevel adjustment all the way to one side for 90 degrees, and all the way to the other side for 45 degrees. If your saw has these, adjust them now. On mine, this is as simple as using an allen wrench to turn an oval-shaped piece of metal until it touches the bevel arm in the 90-degree position. Then I move the blade to 45 degrees, checking with my angle gauge, and set the 45-degree bevel stop. This allows me to quickly position the blade at 90 and 45 degrees, the two most common angles, without having to look and micro-adjust. 

8. Square the blade to the miter slot. The next most important adjustment on your table saw is aligning the blade and fence to the miter slot to ensure that you’re getting square rip cuts as well as bevels. Checking the alignment is straightforward with a combination square. Press the flat of the square to the edge of the miter slot, and then extend the ruler until it touches one of the teeth of the blade on the infeed side. Slowly spin the blade so that the same tooth is on the far outfeed side, and check the distance with the combination square there. The blade is properly aligned when the combination square touches the tooth in both positions. If the ruler touches the tooth in one location, but there is a gap at the other, or it pushes the combination square away from the miter slot, your blade needs adjustment.

On my saw, there are two hex-head screws below the outfeed side of the table. If yours does too, or has something similar, loosen them slightly with an allen wrench or appropriate tool, allowing the blade box to move left and right. Move the edge of the blade box toward the miter slot if there is space between the ruler and blade, or away if the ruler is pressing into the blade. Repeat your alignment check and adjustments numerous times until the end of the ruler touches the tooth on both the infeed and outfeed side. Then lock the screws back into place.

  • Note: If you have a saw that doesn’t have miter slots, you can align your blade to your fence using the same technique. Just press the flat of the square against the blade and the end of the ruler against the fence. And you should also probably consider upgrading your saw—miter slots are invaluable.

9. Square the fence to the miter slot. Squaring the fence to the miter slot follows the same basic process as the blade. Press the flat of the combination square into the miter slot on the infeed side of the table, and then extend the ruler until it’s just touching the fence. Then slide the square to the outfeed side of the table. Lower the blade if you need to get it out the way. The ruler should touch the fence the entire length. If it doesn’t, the miter slot and fence are not square.  

Adjust the fence by loosening one of its mounting hex screws on the infeed or outfeed side and bumping the fence over by hand as needed. Check and adjust as many times as you need to for a perfect alignment.

10. Recheck everything. Sometimes when you’re adjusting one element, another moves. Before you call it a job well done, recheck all of your alignments, and check that the blade and fence are actually parallel to one another. Readjust your blade and fence as needed. 

11. Wax the tabletop. This is the final step and will both protect the table top and allow the wood you cut to slide more smoothly over the surface. Using a clean rag, apply a thin layer of paste wax to the table top and working edge of the fence. Let the wax rest for 10 to 15 minutes, then buff it out until the entire surface is smooth. 

When you’re done, plug the saw back in and turn it on. Listen for any strange noises and look for wobbling in the blade. I always let my saw run for a full minute or more after I’ve worked on it before running any wood through to make sure that I put everything back together properly. 

When you’re sure it’s all running as it should, get back to cutting! There’s nothing prettier in all of woodworking than a crisp right angle hot off the saw. 

Update, January 25, 2022: A previous version of this story suggested squaring the blade to the fence. While this is possible and may be your only option if your saw doesn’t have a miter slot, squaring both the blade and fence to the miter slot is a more accurate and consistent measurement.

The post Tune your table saw up the right way appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

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Clean up your messy entryway with a DIY shoe rack https://www.popsci.com/diy/easy-diy-shoe-rack/ Fri, 14 Jan 2022 23:46:07 +0000 https://www.popsci.com/?p=420481
A blue wooden shoe rack table against a gray wall with neatly paired shoes on it.
So neat and so clean. Jose Mendoza

We won't wade into debate over whether or not it's OK to wear shoes in the house.

The post Clean up your messy entryway with a DIY shoe rack appeared first on Popular Science.

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A blue wooden shoe rack table against a gray wall with neatly paired shoes on it.
So neat and so clean. Jose Mendoza

Any entryway can quickly become a hazardous mess of cast-off footwear, ready to trip up anyone who enters your home. You may know in your heart that the solution to this inhospitable problem is a shoe rack, but you may not know how easy it is to build one.

There are advantages to building one from scratch, too: Not only will you get to personalize the project to match your style and decor, but you can save money. While the price for a low-quality, assembly-required shoe rack can exceed $100, I was able to put this rustic hardwood table together for about $60. If you already have some of these supplies on hand, you may be able to build yours for even less.

Warning: DIY projects can be dangerous, even for the most experienced makers. Before proceeding with this or any other project on our site, ensure you have all necessary safety gear and know how to use it properly. At minimum, that may include safety glasses, a face mask, and/or ear protection. If you’re using power tools, you must know how to use them safely and correctly. If you do not, or are otherwise uncomfortable with anything described here, don’t attempt this project.

Stats

  • Time: 3 to 4 hours
  • Material cost: $60
  • Difficulty: Easy to moderate

Materials

Tools

Instructions

1. Prepare the wood for cutting. If you don’t have a dedicated workshop, choose a space large enough to move around and make your cuts. Then, using your tape measure, pencil, and square, mark the following cuts for each piece of the table:

  • Table top: Draw a line at the halfway mark on one of your 2-by-6 pieces so you’ll cut two roughly 4-foot boards.
  • Shoe rack: Mark the second 2-by-6 at 44.5 inches.
  • Legs: Mark each of the 2-by-4s at 29.5 inches from one end and 29.5 inches from the other end, for a total of four cuts. Focusing at the end of one of these soon-to-be legs, mark a line in the center of the board, 2 inches from one of the long sides, and make another mark 5 inches down on the same side. Use your square to draw a diagonal line between the two, giving the bottom of the leg a slight taper. Repeat this on the other three legs.
  • Long table top side trim: Mark one of the 1-by-4 boards at 44.5 inches from one end and 44.5 inches from the other end, for a total of two cuts.
  • Short table top side trim: Mark the second 1-by-4 at 10 inches from one end and 10 inches from the other.
  • Table top supports: Mark the unmarked portion of the second 1-by-4 so it yields three 8 ⅜-inch pieces. Space them apart a little bit to leave room for the approximately ⅛ inch the saw blade will shave off. 

Take this time to also remove any barcode stickers and staples from the wood so you don’t have to deal with them when you stain the pieces later on.

2. Cut the wood. Using your circular saw, cut each of the pieces of wood you marked in Step 2. 

  • Pro tip: For the perfect cut, line your circular saw blade up with the pencil lines, then place your square flush with the left side of your circular saw’s shoe (the flat metal part that rests against the wood) to guide the process.

3. Sand the wood. Using a piece of sandpaper, sand each piece of wood until it is smooth and use a paint brush to clean off any dust and debris.

  • Pro tip: If you’re worried about splinters, wear gloves or wrap the sandpaper around a block of wood to create a buffer for your hands.

4. Assemble a set of table legs. Using your drill and screws, fasten two legs together as follows:

  • Place two of the legs (the 29.5-inch pieces of 2-by-4) so their outside edges are 44.5 inches apart. 
  • Place one of the 44.5-inch 1-by-4 trim pieces between the legs so it’s flush with the top (the non-tapered end) and outside edge of each leg.
  • Drive four 1.5-inch screws into the wide face of the 1-by-4 to connect it to the legs: two on each side, centered on the 2-by-4 and 1 inch from the closest edge. Make sure the head of each screw goes at least ⅛ of an inch into the wood. (In Step 10, you will fill these holes with wood putty).
  • Repeat this step for the other set of legs.
A set of legs for an easy DIY shoe rack, made out of two pieces of 2-by-4 and a piece of 1-by-4 lumber.
When you’re done assembling one set of legs, it should look like this. Jose Mendoza

5. Attach the short side trim pieces. Stand one set of legs on its short side so it’s easier to work on this step. Place one 10-inch piece of 1-by-4 against the outside the leg that’s off the ground and closest to you, so it looks like the long trim piece you used to connect the two legs makes a 90-degree turn. Fasten the short trim piece in place with two 1.5-inch screws, each 1 inch from the closest edge and centered on the leg beneath. Repeat this step on the other leg (you can see the result in the photo below Step 6).

6. Put the two sets of legs together. Place the set without the attached side trim on the ground and put the other one on top. The two should fit together like puzzle pieces. Fasten them together by drilling two 1.5-inch screws into the 10-inch side piece and the 2-by-4, just like you did in the previous step. Repeat this on the other leg. Your table should now be able to stand on four legs, and that means you’re nearly finished assembling it.

A person assembling a wooden DIY shoe rack outside on a concrete driveway.
The pieces should fit together perfectly (or close to it). Mary Kearl

7. Install the shoe rack. If you stood your table up to test it, lay it back down on its side and use your tape measure, square, and pencil to mark 6.5 inches from the bottom on all four sides of all four legs. This is where you’ll attach the shoe rack.

Using a ¼-inch drill bit, create two ½-inch-deep holes on the 4-inch-wide face of each leg. Each hole should be ¾ of an inch above the lines you just marked and 1 inch from the closest edge. 

Now place your 44.5-inch 2-by-6 between the legs, resting the soon-to-be-rack directly above the lines you drew. The lines should be visible just beneath the board. Finally, drill your 2-inch screws into each of the pre-drilled holes. (In Step 10, you will fill these holes with wood putty). 

  • Pro tip: Temporarily place a leftover piece of 1-by-4 under the tapered end of each of the legs on the ground. This will match the 1-by-4 screwed to the top of the legs and keep everything level while you work.

8. Install the table top. Stand your table up. All that’s left is to assemble the top. Place your two roughly 4-foot 2-by-6 planks on top of the table, so they touch at about the center of the frame. They will overhang on all sides. For a sleek finish, use the ¼-inch bit to drill one upward-angled hole on the interior side of each leg closest to the long side of the table and directly beneath the table top. The hole should be centered and 1 inch from the top of the leg, and go into the tabletop about half an inch. Taking care not to bust through the top of the 2-by-6, put one 2-inch. screw into each pre-drilled hole, fastening each leg to the plank on top.

A person drilling at an upward angle into a table top on a wooden DIY shoe rack.
This is the angle you’re going for in Step 8. Jose Mendoza

9. Install the table top supports. Take one of your 8 ⅜-inch pieces of 1-by-4 and place it underneath the tabletop against two of the legs on one short side of the table. Screw it into the table top with two 1.5-inch screws, each one 2 inches in from the long side of the table and centered on the 1-by-4.

Fasten the second 8 ⅜-inch piece directly beneath the table top against the other two legs, attaching it the same way. Then center the third 8 ⅜-inch piece between the two short sides and attach it exactly as you installed the other two pieces.

Finally, reinforce the supports you just attached with extra 1.5-inch screws on the outside (one per support on each long side, for a total of six screws). Fasten one screw directly into the center of each end of the three 1-by-4s from the outside through the long pieces of trim.

10. Fill the holes with wood putty. Sand off any debris around your screws and apply wood putty as needed in each of the holes.

  • Pro tip: You can use a small piece of leftover wood as an applicator to add the putty if you want to keep your fingers clean and avoid potential splinters.

11. Prepare to paint the table. Sand the entire table, making sure every surface is smooth and removing any debris from the wood putty. Then use your paint brush to remove all the dust from the table.

  • Pro tip: If you don’t have a paint cover for your floor or whatever surface you’re on, you can use newspapers and grocery store coupons to keep it clean.

13. Paint the table. Using your paintbrush (make sure you remove any dust), apply a natural wood color stain to the table top and then a solid paint color of your choosing to the rest of the table. Let both the stain and paint dry, and apply a second coat for each.

  • Pro tip: Place a piece of leftover wood beneath each of the legs before you start painting—that way the legs won’t stick to your paint cover. 
  • Note: Make sure to follow the paint or stain manufacturer’s instructions and ensure you’re applying your coats in a well-ventilated area.

Now your foyer will be complete and hazard-free.

The post Clean up your messy entryway with a DIY shoe rack appeared first on Popular Science.

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